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Messages - Quasimodo

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Dear Friends
Yes, If I shoot the beautiful flower in the bright sun light, but want the Super dark or Black Back ground= What should I do ?.
Yes Very easy---Use Flashes and  bright support lights for both sides of the  flower( Spot Lights at the flower only), Shoot  with High speed shutter, And Carry the Black umbrella  to shade the larges back ground= Yes, The Back ground that in the shade of umbrella and do not get the light from flashes , will be black back ground from the Effected of high speed shutter.

Surapon...thanks so much for taking your time to share this great idea with us!

Also, I just have to say that it is such a delight to follow your posts and commentary.  Your enthusiasm, passion, and positivity are very refreshing, and a great addition to this forum.  IMO.

Thanks again,

+ 100 Hear Hear

Lighting / Re: Looking for a macro ring light for 100mm L
« on: January 18, 2014, 05:03:45 AM »
I don´t know the actual cost (you would have to ask him), but Surapon in this forum has made a DIY solution, that might work for you. http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=19127.0;topicseen

In addition to being probably cheaper, I would with my limited knowledge say that you better can control or avoid the family of angles (thus avoiding or getting the direct reflections you want).

Lenses / Re: Tilt shift for dummies
« on: January 18, 2014, 04:43:42 AM »
Sorry, haven't read the whole thread, but from my perspective, Darwin Wiggett's ebook on TS was particularly helpful for me:


Thanks :) Surapon and others have suggested the book also in other treads here on TS. It looks good, but primarly on landscape, and not on other areas that I would like to explore.

Lighting / Re: Advice needed for Elinchroms
« on: January 18, 2014, 04:28:04 AM »

I don´t think that it is possible to light the Canon flash from the Elinchroms. Maybe except if you go through external senders and receivers, which will cost you quite a bit.

I don´t know the two Elinchrom strobes you mention (i have four Elinchrom (2x 500 BRXi, and 2x 200 w)), but mine have an optical slave function (eye cell) which makes it possible for you to fire off the Elinchrom strobes with your Canon flash. At least you now can use the flash, but the position on top of the camera might not be ideal.. You might go for a used ST E2, which will then trigger the flash, which will then trigger the strobes?

...like a good steak should be with the great taste of blood...

I hope you don't subsist by feeding on the blood of the living  ;D

:) While I intellectually can understand why we should not eat beef (cruelty, emission of gasses by cattlestocks...), I cannot help it. I am a natural born carnivarous.

Same here, was just wondering if you're afraid of garlic/silver bullets/wooden stakes  ;D

Apart from the occasiional howling at the moon, disguised as a photographer ;)

Canon EF Prime Lenses / Re: Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM
« on: January 17, 2014, 06:58:58 PM »
I had a very quick play with a recent jpeg to see if I could get a similar effect. I'm not sure she hasn't played with the white balance between subject and background in some of them. That's what I have done with this picture, as well as the manipulations mentioned above. I've attached the original from camera for comparison. In this case the lens has already done a pretty thorough job of isolating the subject.

Great pictures with a real 'signature' feel. Those who worked with film know that there was as much post processing done then as there ever is with digital !

Thanks for the link Eldar.

Great shot and example Sporgon. Anytime you have time, would you mind sharing how you do this, step by step for those who are not too profficient in PS or Lightroom (like me :) )?

Animal Kingdom / Re: Sparrow Hawk vs. Dove
« on: January 17, 2014, 06:52:44 PM »
Great images. Would have been a pity to find your camera with a a 16-35mm lens and a drained battery ;)
Did you read my mind?  ;D ... my bro-in-law has lots of fruit trees in his backyard with full of fruit in Melbourne, Australia, and lots of birds come to pick on those fruit throughout the day. Anyway, during my vacation a couple of weeks ago, I stayed at his place for a few days. One day my bro-in-law calls me to the kitchen window (facing the backyard) to show a beautiful King Parakeet perched on one of the branches, providing for a fantastic photo opportunity. So, I ran and grabbed my camera bag from the bedroom, pull out the camera to find it mounted with a 16-35mm ... so I pull out the 70-200, unmount the 16-35, mount the 70-200, change the settings point it at the bird and the battery was totally drained, so I insert a freshly charged battery and the camera says "no card" inside ... by this time, I was getting really upset with myself, so I rush back again into the bedroom to pull out the CF & SD cards in the card reader (which I had planned on using to download the images to my laptop) ... I come back again to the kitchen window, with the CF card properly inserted into the camera, raise the camera to the bird who was still posing for me ... only to find the f@%@ing CF & the SD card full ... so I go back and get another CF & SD card, point the camera towards the bird, only to find it flying away ... I was so pi$$ed off with myself that morning. :-[
Good story :) Mine is a bit shorter, but same consequence. I got a distant tail picture of a running arctic fox who had been just outside my tent, feeding on the leftovers in me storm kitchen from the night before. That was the first time I had seen one in the wild and they are veeeery rare.

While my fox was a regular fox, and not an artic one that happen to walk past my parents in law´s house in Åsane, Bergen, Norway. They have lived there for more than 30 years, and never seen a fox. The night before I had been shooting pictures of the fjord with a tripod, f 16, and the in-built delayed shutter..... It still irritates me, and it is several years ago :)
This sort of thing happens to me many times (as recently as a week ago) ... trying to press the shutter button for a quick action photo, only to find that I had left the bloody camera on 10 second self-timer mode from the previous session >:(

LOL! Afterwards I always try to check while picking up the camera. It would be nice to have an optional preprogrammet reset function (AV, widest aperture on a given lens, and autoiso). 

Lenses / Re: Tilt shift for dummies
« on: January 17, 2014, 06:48:54 PM »
The entirety of what you need to understand is encapsulated in the two gif's on the page I linked to originally.

Scheimpflug is only half the interesting bit, and his work has little relevance to us, he was only interested in huge J point distances that require very little tilt. His work was for battlefield imagery from balloons in the first world war.

Merklinger, and his J point/hinge line, are the really interesting bits for us and nothing explains this half as well as the gif does.

If you want a deeper understanding of the maths then Merklinger's free ebook, and lets not forget he actually wrote the book on this, is available here http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~ILIM/courses/vision-sensors/readings/FVC16.pdf

His other work, on depth of field for tilted images, is available entirely free too, here, http://www.trenholm.org/hmmerk/TIAOOFe.pdf

You do not need to buy anything to have the deepest understanding of tilt and shift use.

Thank you PBD. I will read this first :)

Lenses / Re: Tilt shift for dummies
« on: January 17, 2014, 06:31:30 PM »
Late to the party here, and I don't shoot T/S, but I did find this recent T/S video from the RokiBowYang camp quite interesting:

Samyang Tilt-Shift 24mm f/3.5 in action

Lots of examples.  The idea of using T/S to keep a large depth of field in focus (albeit in a line) without having to stop down or composite multiple shots was pretty cool. (See 6:18 - 7:10).

- A

Better late than not attending at all :) I will look at the video tomorrow as it is 12.30 am here now, and the kids show no mercy when it comes to sleeping habits appropriate for weekends :)

Lenses / Re: Tilt shift for dummies
« on: January 17, 2014, 06:23:20 PM »
The book you want is:

"Using the View Camera - A Creative Guide to Large Format Photography" (Revised Edition)
by Steve Simmons
Amphoto Books
ISBN 0-8174-6353-4 (pbk)

It's a comprehensive guide to using view cameras, but then of course the principles are exactly the same as are involved in the use of tilt-shift lenses. This book will answer all of your questions, comprehensively, without getting excessively involved in the mathematical theory and it's very readable. You can ignore the bits about film. The only thing it won't tell you is not to tighten the locking knobs on Canon's TS-E lenses too much. They're easy to break and expensive (very) to fix.

Thanks a lot:) I will get it soon. Nice of you also to point out that one should not tighten the locking screw too hard. I think that I might have, but luckily nothing has broken yet....

...CS 6 works great for me and I will like you probably keep this version until they offer something that cannot live without. It is a nice feature though :)

The one feature that I have found so far that I would really regret not having if I returned to CS6 is the new Camera Raw Filter.

It seldom gets mentioned, but I really like it. Basically, at any stage in the process, even up to the final layer, you can apply the filter and get back into Camera RAW (or maybe a virtual version of Camera RAW) and have all the RAW adjustments again available to you.

There have been many times in the past, when I've gotten near the end of editing an image and found that something just doesn't look quite right (for example, maybe the color balance seems a little off, the blacks might need strengthening, I've lost shadow detail, etc. etc.) With this filter, I can quickly get all the Camera Raw controls back and tweak the image.

It's really a great feature and I'm a little surprised it hasn't been highlighted more.

Other than that, I could live without almost everything else in CC and return to CS6 without feeling like I've given up a lot.

You can essentially do this same thing in CS6, by keeping your images in a smart object, no?  You can adjust, etc...and still double click on the RAW image in the smart object (assuming you don't ever flatten images and why would you work like that, destructively?)...you can go to RAW, adjust,save and come back to PS and keep going....


Thanks for the tip :)

Canon EF Prime Lenses / Re: Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM
« on: January 17, 2014, 11:39:50 AM »
A follow up to my post from yesterday. According to the info I have, this woman got her first camera in 2012 and she´s shooting with a 135 2L lens. I got my first SLR 39 years ago and I would have been tremendously proud of a portfolio like this. Enjoy!


No question that those are gorgeous images but there's a lot of post processing involved there.

In this one: http://500px.com/photo/57384990 for example, look at the area that's in focus on the ground between the dog and the child.  Then look at the ground near the child's heels.  It's on the same plane and should be in focus but is blurred.

Again, there's a lot of skill evident on those photos but it's not all "in-camera" skill.

Could be a composite. Two images blended together. I like the moody atmosphere of these shots more than anything. I wish I had mad processing skillz like she does!

+1 Me too!

I think her pictures are beautiful regardless of what goes into it. I think that photoshop liberated photographers from their documentary shackles, much like photography freed painting when the medium was introduced. Chagall, van Gogh, and Picasso all came after the photography. Before that paintings tended to be quite naturalistic.

What I would really wish, is that she would post a video of how she works, so I at least could try to imitate some of her process.

Dear Surapon,
Thanks for the instructions!
I'm learning from you of your great idea.
For me, I usually put a black foam core 18 inches behind the target.  Sometimes a bit restricting.  So now, another arsenal for dark background.
Many thanks.

You are welcome, Sir, Dear Friend Mr. lion rock.
Yes, I use to put the Black foam core behind the flowers too, BUT 2 years ago, At the Public park, When I start to touch the Flowers ( Behind the main subject with the Black Foam core Board, The Park's staff came to Warn me for this Black Foam core board might damage the flowers and the plants. From that time, I never use any thing to touch the flowers that not belong to me---That Why, the Umbrella is replace the black foam core board.
Have a great weekend, Sir.

Looks pretty cool :) The flash, is that DIY too?

EOS Bodies / Re: The Next DSLR Will Be Entry Level [CR3]
« on: January 17, 2014, 10:48:33 AM »
"It was also confirmed that “a lot” of lenses were coming this year"  - my source has confirmed one of these lenses will be 16-35 III. IQ is Better than Nikorrr 14-24 f2.8 ;D
Are you serious or just messing with us? :) If serious, how trustworthy is your source?

I'd love a tack sharp 16-35 III.

I might be out of tune, but I am quite happy with my 16-35II :)

Canon EF Prime Lenses / Re: Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM
« on: January 17, 2014, 10:44:12 AM »
A follow up to my post from yesterday. According to the info I have, this woman got her first camera in 2012 and she´s shooting with a 135 2L lens. I got my first SLR 39 years ago and I would have been tremendously proud of a portfolio like this. Enjoy!


We all have to aspire to something :)

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