April 16, 2014, 09:26:34 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Quasimodo

Pages: 1 ... 34 35 [36] 37 38 ... 54
527
Video & Movie / Re: First attempt with my 1d-x
« on: November 11, 2012, 11:18:24 AM »
Technique fine, content like a 14 year old boy's fantasy.

528
Sports / Re: motorsport photos
« on: November 11, 2012, 08:46:21 AM »
Not much amateur over these shots :) Brilliant, and welcome!

529
thank you Neuro and KBmelb for your answers. I have had this as one of my most wanted lenses for a long time. I will still get it after what you say, but not with eyes wide shut :)

530
Lenses / Re: Lens recommendation -newborn shoot
« on: November 06, 2012, 07:49:40 AM »
I shot this picture of my youngest son with a 5DII and a 100L HIS : http://500px.com/photo/2197306

and it is fun for eyes and body parts and such.

I don't have a 85L II myself unfortunately, but coupling the buttery bokeh of that lens with the incredible texture of newborns and their cute clothes is imho a match made in heaven :)

531
Lenses / Re: Lens recommendation -newborn shoot
« on: November 06, 2012, 02:28:23 AM »
Just my two cents: (have not had time to read other than your original post).

I would rent the 85L II, and if you want to have some fun artistic shots, use the 100L too :)

532
The camera's WB doesn't affect RAW images, so that's possible only if the camera outputs JEPG whose WB processing algorithm is "better" than that of computer processing software.

But I read somwhere that cameras collect data for different channels RGB and than applies WB. Too technical for me so maybe I explained it wrong. However, some say that even though one can play with WB in post it is not as precise as one would hit it the very first time.

My idea of using expodisc was a bit different than suggested. I'd like to use it in a room with multiple sources so I woud just point at the scene not each source and help camere make a good balance. Does this make sense?

Just my two cents:

I my mind it makes sense, whether you use a Lastolite, like shown over (could very well be better than expodisc, but bigger to carry around by the looks of it (it is not like you don't have enough to carry around if you're doing a shoot)). I have a warm expodisc and it works great. However when I have forgotten it, I have often just used a regular xerox paper (they are not perfect white), or a recycled napkin (brown/greyish) and it works great too. If anything goes wrong in your opinion, you can fix it in pp.

The way I do it (and I am not a professional in the sense that this is my main income), is that I put the expodisc on the lens and shoot at the person's face very close to get the best reading. If you are using strobes or Speedlights, you would want to have a remote trigger (ST-E2, or ST-E3 if you have the 600 RT EX, youngno, or Pocket wizard or whatever). The reason you would want a remote trigger is that if you use a 580 or 600 as a master it will (not sure if they can trigger without emitting light?) cast light when you are standing next to your subject to get a reading, and that will affect the reading in a wrong direction. If you have the remote, you put up the flashes where you want them, then trigger them while taking a reading next to the subject, and then put in the reading as your custom white balance. If you don't have a expodisc, lastolite, cube or whatever, try with a xerox paper. What I do is to turn of the AF on the lens, put the paper right next to their face, make sure the lens is out of focus, take a shot, and it immediatly becomes better than the AWB will give you in my experience.

G.

533

Has anybody tried using Expodisc? Apparently produces great results, but it is a bit expensive, though.

I remember I read somewhere that even though one can correct WB in post it sometimes leads to wrong colors afterwards. Like, changing WB in post doesn't treat all colors the same, for example blue becomes darker blue while red doesn't and I belive some cast was mentioned. Does anybody have an idea about this issue?

I have one for 77mm thread. It works great, but I found that using a normal A4 sheet of paper or a napkin does the job as well. Save the money for something else :)

534
Just my two cents:

I would try to scrape together a few more bucks and get the 70-200 II, and if not, get the 135L, one of the few lenses you never hear anyone say anything bad about, quite the opposite. I would stay put on body, since the 60D is a brilliant crop body with a good sensor. Also put on body, since I would expect like many other here a 7D II in the coming year, which will change the game again. Have you shot with a full frame before? It is a different ball game.

G.

There's always a few more bucks available... but then I have to hear crap from the wife.  Actually I hear crap from her when I buy and sell lenses and put the profit towards new gear.  For those out there who aren't married... feel free to stay that way. 

I'm probably going to get the 135L and I know there may be a second version coming out, but I find it difficult to believe that the next version will be heralded even more than the 135. 

I haven't shot with a full frame before, but I do understand the 1.6 crop factor.  I'm constantly doing the math with my lenses saying X would be approximately Y on a full frame.  I know I don't use all the functions on my 60D, but I am looking for better low-light iso performance.  And I won't find that in the crop sensor market.  So I'm basically eliminating the 7D mkii (presuming it isn't just a rumor) and the 70D.

I hear you:) I am married and have two boys. If not, I would have had a 1dx, and many more lenses by now :)

I would be audacious (not sure if that is spelled correct) enough to say that to me; if they release a 135L II, I could care less, given that it is the best lens I have from Canon. Could it be better? Possibly, but the world is so big, and there are many more lenses I need (I think). For portrait you can hardly find any better from Canon, except for the focal lenght limitations. This is the reason why I would love to have the 85 F1.2L II as well :). I have the Siggy 1.4 now, and it is great. However, and this is a big curse, I get to borrow pretty much all Canon lenses there are, and it is a curse, because once you have tried the 85 II, the other in that range suddenly don't cut it anymore :)

The reason why I put the 70-200 first (and believe me and all the others in here who have it, it it truly a great lens), is because given your limited amount and focal range of lenses (not trying to be rude here), I would opt for a more choices in range, before going for the nirvana of fixed focal lenghts.

G.

535
You have some good glass already, but it might be better to get the telephoto or nice prime at this stage, then look at what new bodies are on offer in 2013, so keep your 60D until then. Who knows, the 6D may be a great camera in terms of IQ and a 7D2 may appear, so best to keep your options open and extend your lens collection.

+1

536
Lenses / Re: Canon 24-70 II Or Primes Particularly 50MM 1.2L
« on: November 04, 2012, 10:40:30 AM »
I really don't understand the question :) I want both, not to mention your camera...

I tried the 24-70 II on a 1DX and it was an awsome combo. the 50L is however a brilliant lens which gives you creative opportunities that the 24-70 will not give you. Hence I will get both, I just need some persuasive work towards my better half :)

537
Just my two cents:

I would try to scrape together a few more bucks and get the 70-200 II, and if not, get the 135L, one of the few lenses you never hear anyone say anything bad about, quite the opposite. I would stay put on body, since the 60D is a brilliant crop body with a good sensor. Also put on body, since I would expect like many other here a 7D II in the coming year, which will change the game again. Have you shot with a full frame before? It is a different ball game.

G.

538
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Advice for night skyline photography
« on: November 02, 2012, 11:43:25 AM »
here is the moon shot.

539
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Advice for night skyline photography
« on: November 02, 2012, 11:42:02 AM »
6) How on earth do I manage windy conditions with long exposures?  Last night, the wind was such that I was stuck with non-ideal settings (1/3 to 1/5 second exposures, ISO 1600, F/7.1, etc,) when I'd ideally like multi-second exposures at a lower ISO.  Is there a tip or trick other than tripod positioning and using my body as a windshield?  (Use smaller lenses?  :D)

Bigger and better tripod is all I can suggest. When in doubt, set one in concrete :P . Barring that, some (most?) decent tripods you can hook a counterweight to the column, or add a rock-bag around the legs to lower the centre of gravity (my Vanguard 283ct came with a rock-bag and has a hook on the column too). Keep the legs as short as possible, on multi-angle legs tilt them out. Basically, the lower to the ground the better (as long as you can still get the shot).


I was shooting in the night last weekend, and I had brought a very sturdy tripod. In my case I was using a 800 F5.6L plus 2xIII teleconvertor (I was there to shoot the moon which was almost full, and ended up shooting city elements, before the dammned moon showed up through the skies (three hours freezing in the wind and below 0 degrees celsius)). What I experienced is that no matter how sturdy a tripod you have, you will get shake due to the wind and the lenght of the lens. I saw this because I was shooting at x 10 in liveview. My buddy and I ended up with our parkas jackets held out to the side to cover the lens, while at the same time using 10 sec. delay to get the shot.

Even then it did not get perfect... I will enclose one of them (as you see I have not done any pp to it yet, not sure if I will bother either). The night was a success for my part, since the damned moon showed up, and I got the shot I wanted @ 1600mm. I will enclose this also.

G.

540
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Moonbow!
« on: October 30, 2012, 08:00:29 PM »
Quasi, what are the full stats on that shot?

thanks

5D II, 800 F5.6L + 2x III teleconverter, @F11, ISO 100, Spot Metering, AV Mode, One Shot. Plus a very sturdy tripod and a Gimbal? head. 10 second delay (which with the speed of the earth made me put the focus point on the middle on the far right side, and by the time the shot was taken, it had passed the middle of the moon). It was also a bit windy, so my friend and I had to cover/shelter the lens from that additional shake. In addition three hours in minus three degrees celsius (waiting for the clouds to go away :)

Pages: 1 ... 34 35 [36] 37 38 ... 54