« on: November 12, 2012, 02:14:01 PM »
Aslo take a look at this post from CR
thanks for a good tip on an interesting article
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Aslo take a look at this post from CR
The camera's WB doesn't affect RAW images, so that's possible only if the camera outputs JEPG whose WB processing algorithm is "better" than that of computer processing software.
But I read somwhere that cameras collect data for different channels RGB and than applies WB. Too technical for me so maybe I explained it wrong. However, some say that even though one can play with WB in post it is not as precise as one would hit it the very first time.
My idea of using expodisc was a bit different than suggested. I'd like to use it in a room with multiple sources so I woud just point at the scene not each source and help camere make a good balance. Does this make sense?
Has anybody tried using Expodisc? Apparently produces great results, but it is a bit expensive, though.
I remember I read somewhere that even though one can correct WB in post it sometimes leads to wrong colors afterwards. Like, changing WB in post doesn't treat all colors the same, for example blue becomes darker blue while red doesn't and I belive some cast was mentioned. Does anybody have an idea about this issue?
Just my two cents:
I would try to scrape together a few more bucks and get the 70-200 II, and if not, get the 135L, one of the few lenses you never hear anyone say anything bad about, quite the opposite. I would stay put on body, since the 60D is a brilliant crop body with a good sensor. Also put on body, since I would expect like many other here a 7D II in the coming year, which will change the game again. Have you shot with a full frame before? It is a different ball game.
There's always a few more bucks available... but then I have to hear crap from the wife. Actually I hear crap from her when I buy and sell lenses and put the profit towards new gear. For those out there who aren't married... feel free to stay that way.
I'm probably going to get the 135L and I know there may be a second version coming out, but I find it difficult to believe that the next version will be heralded even more than the 135.
I haven't shot with a full frame before, but I do understand the 1.6 crop factor. I'm constantly doing the math with my lenses saying X would be approximately Y on a full frame. I know I don't use all the functions on my 60D, but I am looking for better low-light iso performance. And I won't find that in the crop sensor market. So I'm basically eliminating the 7D mkii (presuming it isn't just a rumor) and the 70D.
You have some good glass already, but it might be better to get the telephoto or nice prime at this stage, then look at what new bodies are on offer in 2013, so keep your 60D until then. Who knows, the 6D may be a great camera in terms of IQ and a 7D2 may appear, so best to keep your options open and extend your lens collection.
6) How on earth do I manage windy conditions with long exposures? Last night, the wind was such that I was stuck with non-ideal settings (1/3 to 1/5 second exposures, ISO 1600, F/7.1, etc,) when I'd ideally like multi-second exposures at a lower ISO. Is there a tip or trick other than tripod positioning and using my body as a windshield? (Use smaller lenses? )
Bigger and better tripod is all I can suggest. When in doubt, set one in concrete . Barring that, some (most?) decent tripods you can hook a counterweight to the column, or add a rock-bag around the legs to lower the centre of gravity (my Vanguard 283ct came with a rock-bag and has a hook on the column too). Keep the legs as short as possible, on multi-angle legs tilt them out. Basically, the lower to the ground the better (as long as you can still get the shot).
Quasi, what are the full stats on that shot?