« on: July 10, 2014, 01:09:48 PM »
I think you will enjoy your new toys. I am not planning to upgrade my gears in the coming two years. Hopefully 5D4 will have high MP and better DR for my next upgrade.
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
It’s noted that Sony has no interest in competing with Hasselblad or Phase One and that their medium format camera would be something “completely different”. Perhaps a compact MF system?
Sony is being quite aggressive in trying to find new markets in still cameras, and if the system is priced affordably for medium format, they could have a winner if this true.
If you take $790 and consider what that must pay for, it becomes a bit difficult to believe that this lens can compete with the Otus in any way.
(If memory serves me right) 10 lens elements, of which 3 are SLD and one aspherical, a fast reliable AF system, housing, hoods and caps and casing and profit ... I fail to see how it is possible to produce a high quality product, with tolerances to compete with L-series, Otus and others, for that money, no matter how efficient you are or how cheap your labor is.
I'd be delighted if they prove me wrong. That would make this lens a significant game changer!
I doubt this lens be made in Japan. It's more likely be made in China.
We all know the labor cost in China
I just installed ML on my 5D III (1.2.3-ml-Nightly.2) which is my first time installing ML. It installed well and I can bring up the ML menu screen by pressing "delete" in live view.
But I must be missing something (major and too obvious?) because I do not see anywhere any button for Dual ISO or AutoExposure (auto ETTR I presume)? How do I enable these?
Reading through ML forum and threads, it seems nobody bothered to give a step-by-step instructions on how to enable, shoot, and post-process Dual ISO.
Writing to both CF & SD cards works on 5D3. I don't really use the SD card, so I enable the write protect to prevent the mess on my SD card.I have never used ML. If you are booting from the SD card can you still write to both the CF and SD or do you only use the CF card?
Good question...anyone have an answer for some ML wannabees?
When I used it with the 60D, no problems using the same card its booting from...
So, I would assume that it works from both SD and CF, and it can most likely record on both while its booting from atleast one of them.
Since you know the number, I assume that you know official government inflation excludes certain categories like food. I believe that you can feel the inflation is much more than 2% from grocery stores, restaurants, and many many places. That's why stock goes to history high and richer became much more richer.
In March 2004, the Dow Jones industrial average was about 10300, and today is 16340. If you put 7000 in the stock market your stock will be worth 11000 without dividends in average in the past 10 years.
The CPI does include food. Its the first item listed.
Inflation and the Dow Jones are two different animals and aren't comparable. No argument from me about the rich getting (much, much) richer, that's a plain fact, but it has nothing to do with inflation. Back to lenses though, as someone pointed out earlier some of the super tele's got a big boost in resale value after the vII's were released with huge new price tags. Pro level camera gear is pretty unique in how well it holds its value. And really, even if you lose a little to inflation, it isn't much in the grand scheme of things when you consider how much this hobby/profession costs.
Steve, nice photo, and after reading one of Alan's posts, I tested my 300 with both extenders using FoCal and found that wide open was sharpest bare and with the 1.4x, and f/5.6 and f/8 were even with the 2x. There was a very slight boost at f/6.3, but after reading the-digital-picture and others, I had assumed that f/8 was sharper than f/5.6. Your lens might not match those results, but so far Alan and I have found that to be the case.
That is interesting. I've only ever eyeballed the results and it seems like I get better results stopped down slightly. Of course, my 300 is the non-IS and there may have been some improvements made to IQ since 1987.Actually I disagree that. You have better think about that from finance point of view. Money actually loses its current value in the future because of inflation. For example, you buy 300mm L f/2.8 for $7000. You may sell it for 6500 ten years later. However, you will lose 5% inflation of 7000 yearly. That means the future of your $7000 is about 11500. You actually will lose not 500, but 5000. The more you invest in you lenses the more you will lose in the future.
Inflation has been under 2% for the last three years and has averaged 2.31% for the last 10. Inflation is a real thing but not as big a factor as you're making it out to be.
e: quick calculation shows a $7000 lens purchased in 2004 equivalent to $8668 in 2014 dollars. Also, its worth remembering that the 300 f2.8 did not cost $7000 in 2004.
The other thing you have to remember is the big whites do not depreciate, and can be an investment, third party lenses are generally cheap to buy on the second hand market. Another reason to look at the big white's.
This is a good point & it has been my own experience, I owned both the version 1 300f/2.8 & 400f/2.8 Lenses, sold them for exactly what I had paid for them when I purchased the Version 2 Lenses, I could have sold them at a profit but I sold to friends so I was interested only in recouping what I'de spent.
I bought a new Tamron 150-600mm lens a month ago. I am a professional photographer and am not biased towards or against Tamron vs. Canon, as I own prime L-grade lenses from both companies. Unfortunately, this lens is not weather sealed, and after using the lens for two weeks outside, the amount of internal dust was atrocious. Regardless of being meticulous and using a blower at all times, the lens quickly absorbed dust onto the frontal glass element internally, including moisture, via the cork-screw barrel that retracts into the upper chamber. Closely inspecting the markings on the lens, I saw that it was manufactured in China, as opposed to Tamron's traditional Japan manufacturer, which was a big shock, so quality control has definitely been compromised in order to sell the lens at $1069 .
Additionally, image stabilization for action shots (specifically bird shots) is not reliable. Even though the proper autofocus point speed and tracking can be adjusted in the Canon 5D Mark III to compensate for the lag, shutter speed has to be at least 1/2000th+ of a second in order to prevent motion blur for hand held action tracking shots (coupled with f/6.3 on a cloudy day and ISO 1000-2000, this creates photos worthy of entry level DSLR bodies and stock lenses - which means not good!). Unlike my Canon 100-400mm f/4-5.6 L lens, which has 2 modes of image stabilization and creates very fast and stable shots, the Tamron 150-600mm lens only has an on/off VC switch with no additional stabilization mode selection settings. Gimbal shots are naturally improved, but AF adjustment at 15m to infinity is still sluggish when trying to focus on objects 200ft and further (creep still occurs with the limiting switch). I called Tamron directly, and their technical support team confirmed that their teleconverters are not compatible with this lens as Tamron engineers have officially discontinued all TC's and did not design this lens with the 1.4x or 2x in mind. Additionally, they confirmed that both converters should not be used with the lens, as unpredictable results can occur and are not guaranteed to work properly.
Static shots are amazing with very comparable MTF chart optical clarity to Canon, and portability of the lens is great ; nevertheless, I need a fast and reliable lens for shooting Ospreys, Eagles, King Fishers, Herons, etc. Sorry everyone, but this lens is not quite the "big white killer" that many individuals thought that it would turn out to be. I too thought that this was the lens that would allow me to save several thousand dollars; however, I have now returned the Tamron 150-600mm lens for a full refund and consequently have to save up in order to purchase the real Canon 600mm f/4.0 L II (weather sealed, improved pre-set focus ranges, stabilization modes, etc.). I am not even going to touch the "Sigmonster" 800mm f/5.6, given that it too is not weather sealed and that other professional birders have complained that the focus ring breaks over time, has a fragile body shell, and is extremely sluggish to maneuver; being confined to a gimbal for the majority of the time. In the end, you get what you pay for!
I don't see anything wrong with the bokeh on the sigma 35
here is an example @ 1.4
Hi wicked, your right, Bokeh seems Ok, but I think you had too many of these BEFORE taking the shot, the Glass is leaning to the left, you needed to stand with your left foot on a box of matches so you could have the beer level, works for me.