December 19, 2014, 08:17:11 AM

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Messages - Marsu42

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Any thoughts?

Yes, in case of your friend I'd re-think the decision to have you video the wedding :->

Unless the video is completely optional and there's nothing lost when it doesn't work out (even after the guests seeing you filming, and asking "where's the footage?"), wedding work is not a testbed for trial&error.

As for the mic: pop against it, that'll make a nice sound bump so you see what the source it. But really, at this stage I'd recommend against trying it in a live scenario.

Lenses / Re: So, Yongnuo replica lenses....
« on: Today at 03:44:06 AM »
Anybody tempted?

Definitely not - the 50/1.8 build quality (two pieces of glass helpd together by a cheap plastic barrel) will be still horrible, as will the noisy an imprecise af motor. I had bad experiences esp. when the zoom mechanism pushes the interior outside - bump against anything, and that's that.

That isn't salvaged by the bokeh going from "horrible" to "below average", in the best case to be expected, that is. This one is build and designed for the local Asian market.

Of course, the f1.4 is possibly of more interrest once they get round to shipping it...

Indeed, a 50/1.4 clone at a very cheap price would be tempting to have around just for the low light capability when in a pinch (like night time photography). For everything else, there are better options around nowadays unless you're on an ultra-low budget and don't worry about af precision.

However, as this has to be imported from China I'd have to pay 20% vat plus 20% customs (Germany/EU), so unless you try to circumvent customs altogether it isn't such a great offer anymore vs. a used Canon 50/1.4 bought locally. And it's not like there would be any good warranty service to be expected from Yn.

So what are they talking about, rechargeable lithium batteries (is there such a thing?) or just regular ones?

Actually a good question, there seems to be a lot of different li types. In the absence of information, Canon has to talk about all of them, rechargable or not. As far as I just read, the problem seems to be rapid discharge, and that would be what happens in a flash, but not in a camera or mobile phone.

I'm using "Varta Lithium Professionals" and have quite a stockpile, so it would suck if i shouldn't use them anymore.

These things indeed seem to be not without risk, even air travel with them is restricted. Canon has quite a linup of li batteries themselves and warns against this as early as 2008:

My understanding is that the 70-300mm L doesn't have as good IQ as the 70-200mm L IS wide open. I'm not too concerned about f4 versus f4.5 or 200mm versus 300mm, I would just want the best IQ of the two.

I didn't use both, but looking at the tdp chart's I'd say it depends on the focal length and the individual copy of your lens - there's always a lot of variation. If your are set upon pixel peeping (I'm not saying there's something wrong with it) the internal zoom might be calibrated better, ymmv.

However, the 70-300L is one of the most underestimated lenses for this very reason. When it was released, the opinions were "Well, you'll get similar test chart iq from a much cheaper lens", but over the last years this has turned around and it's considered to be a very good lens with an excellent sharpness/bokeh/price/weight/bulk tradeoff. That's why I'd recommend at least testing both in a shop in your own hands and getting the feel, then comparing some non-test chart shots.

If the subject moves relatively fast you need 1/250 shutter. If it movies fast you need 1/1000 and if it moves relatively really fast 1/4000. If you notice f stop is not mentioned here. Get the picture?

No, I don't - that's because I shoot motion a lot. At first glance and to the layman, it might seem like the speed of motion is tied to the shutter speed, like fast, faster, fastest, totally fast.

But if you gain more experience, you'll realize even with only "fast" the pixel sharpness depends a lot on the shutter speed, so the tradeoff you need to make is iso value vs. pixel peeping. And of course it's about the speed of the object as projected on the sensor, so shooting a race car on the horizon doesn't need as fast shutter speed as shooting a turtle on macro distance.

That's why giving any absolute number (either f-stop or shutter speed) for a certain type of motion is a fallacy, it's about tradeoffs and the choice of max view/print size. Proper use of your gear depends on you understanding these connections. However, where would f2.8 lenses and 1/8000 camera sales be if everybody did :-o ?

Lenses / Re: Impressions from the EF 16-35mm f4 L IS USM
« on: Today at 02:36:34 AM »
So in my book, using a tripod for the kinds of shots on your blog is still to preferred unless you're only targeting web size. And esp. in this case, an old and shaggy 17-40L (when used properly) will be indistinguishable from the newest and shiniest lens marvel in Canon's lineup.
lol.. maybe you have to open your eyes, get glasses and look at the corners.
or maybe you just have no clue....

If your 17-40L wasn't tack sharp, probably it wasn't properly afma'd or you had a broken lens. Or you're probably not able to handle it - in this case, IS certainly is a big help to get less blur.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: I'm getting impatient for the new 5D 4.
« on: December 18, 2014, 01:53:57 PM »
What makes you think you are ready for this system? It's obvious you have no idea what your needs are.

... on the other hand, if he's got the budget why not go for it? It's not like he couldn't sell the stuff on if he finds it too difficult to handle or to heavy to carry around. Even expensive usable cameras have a "P" for "professional" mode. Getting a nice sports car just for fun is worth 15+ 1dx systems.

Imho people enjoying themselves and getting top of the line gear is just fine, if Canon makes a healthy profit there's less reason for them to be would up tight when trickling down features to more affordable cameras.

Concerning "need": Nobody "needs" a 1dx, when used properly a good photog can cover all situations with a Rebel. It's just a matter of convenience and keeper rate in some "machinegun the wildlife" situations.

This information is for residents of the United States and Puerto Rico only. If you do not reside in the USA or Puerto Rico, please contact the Canon Customer Support Center in your region.

Muahaha, so the batteries stop exploding when used by a non-US resident, even if staying inside the US?

Or is it because the weird US law system has so exepensive lawsuits that even a very minor danger needs a warning? But in this case, what's Puerto Rico doing in there?

EOS Bodies / Re: High Megapixel Camera Coming in 2015 [CR3]
« on: December 18, 2014, 09:12:11 AM »
A question: Is it possible that the loss of sharpness by AA filter to be counteracted by the use of slightly increased sharpening? If that is so we can have the best of 2 worlds. Unless some very fine detail is lost completely at capture time...

Good question, I hope someone from the CR heavyweights comments on this. My current understanding is "yes", as you know what has been done to the image you know how to counteract most of it.

These is are interesting links on capture sharpening:

Btw this article argues that the moiré problem deminishes with higher sensor res:

Lighting / Re: 6D + 580EXII serious TTL metering problem?
« on: December 18, 2014, 07:19:52 AM »
I tried reseting all settings on the flash and camera and uninstalling ML.

You don't need to uninstall ML, just pressing SET (on most cameras, some have another key) on camera start disables it.

coloured/high ceilings/walls that would require close to full power seem to make the issue worse.

That points to a broken flash - just because it's still flashing doesn't mean it's 100% ok.

Flashing at or near max power can introduce small cracks in the tube, leading to unpredictable behavior. Letting the flash cool can "repair" it - that's probably the reason why it's hard to trace. I imagine a semi-broken flash might very well fire prematurely when the power build up is too high for the tube to carry.

Always use your gear properly, and in this case this means rather buying a "big" flash and not flashing at max power with a "little" flash esp. in quick succession.

Lenses / Re: What would you choose to compliment a 50mm prime?
« on: December 18, 2014, 05:46:14 AM »
16-35mm, 50mm, 70-200mm f/4 combo made the perfect travel setup for me.

I'd switch the 70-200 with the 70-300 unless you a) positively insist upon having f4 @200mm and not f4.5 or b) are desperate for constant aperture of  the internal zoom (= longer packing length)

Lenses / Re: Impressions from the EF 16-35mm f4 L IS USM
« on: December 18, 2014, 04:54:14 AM »
Many people complain about the necessity of Image stabilization at wide angle lenses...

So what? I didn't read anyone disputing that if your're shooting in dim light and nothing moves (or you wan motion blur), IS can be very handy to have. But do you get down to optimal ISO with IS? Probably not.

So in my book, using a tripod for the kinds of shots on your blog is still to preferred unless you're only targeting web size. And esp. in this case, an old and shaggy 17-40L (when used properly) will be indistinguishable from the newest and shiniest lens marvel in Canon's lineup.

I've never used battery grips. Do you all prefer using one or not using one?

With cameras w/o a joystick (60d, 70d, 6d, ...) I don't see the point as the grip is really just a grip and carrier for batteries (like for long time intervalmeter shots w/ ML or a lot of live view/video). With an additional joystick on the grip you gain usability, but otherwise I don't feel I'd need one unless I shot portrait orientation 24/7.

If you have ever wanted a FF and have been nervous about buying this camera because some people have called it "cheap" or are trying to pressure you into a camera you don't need then ignore them. You won't be unhappy with the 6D. The images are AMAZING!!!

Most "issues" with the 6d come down to simple user error, if anyone complains about the 6d it's most likely their own lack of skill. Even with the outer points, you can get tack sharp images (if your lenses are properly afma'ed, that is) and I've succeed to track with it just like a 1dx would.

EOS Bodies / Re: High Megapixel Camera Coming in 2015 [CR3]
« on: December 17, 2014, 05:44:58 PM »
Just increasing sensor resolution alone isn't going to absolutely increase DR.

Looking at the Nikon specs, it rather seems including res *decreases* dr. Lucky us Canon shooters as we know you don't need more than the current dynamic range to shoot 99% of the scenes if you expose properly.

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