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Topics - Marsu42

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Site Information / Extend the "Last Edit:" marker time?
« on: December 10, 2013, 04:22:59 AM »
What I really like about this site is that it allows to edit the user posts indefinitely and delete them if wanted. Just one idea: It would be nice to extend the time a bit until the "Last Edit:" marker appears.

The reason is that at least for me as a non-native speaker I often find myself editing the post somewhat because after reading it again after a 1-2 minutes or so I think "Hey, that doesn't sound right". Because I'm not editing the actual content I then sometimes delete the post and re-post it to prevent it marked as "edited" - I don't know if I'm the only one doing that. Yes, I admit I could carefully use the "Preview" option, but it usually only dawns on me after reading it in the whole context after "Post".

Site Information / New forum for shooting technique?
« on: December 10, 2013, 04:05:55 AM »
With so many good photogs and helpful members around, I often see threads centering about technique, i.e. how to shoot things with the whole Canon system and getting feedback w/o posting a gallery... but I am missing a dedicated sub-forum for this, in spite of every other poster stating that gear is not everything

Now I know this started out as a gear-head rumor site, but it's a bit unfortunate to see very unique and helpful threads buried between the next "17-40L or 16-35L", and also I have a hard time placing questions because I have to choose if it's about lenses or flashes or video :-\ ... how about it? The most general "Canon" subforum doesn't seem to cover it because it's more about the Canon brand and not what to do with your camera.

EOS Bodies / POLL: The 2nd ff camera in 2014 will be...
« on: November 28, 2013, 03:16:09 PM »
What do you think - will the 6d be updated with a above-mediocre af system and dual pixel af for the masses, or will the 5d3 at last get a real sensor upgrade above the good ol' 5d2 and become the even more expensive 5d4?

Edit: I changed the poll question to make it's clear "ff in 2014" might as well be just an announcement, and actual 2014 releases might be "just" lenses. Still, the question is which ff updates comes first as this might matter to potential buyers of the current models.

Lenses / AFMA & distance?
« on: November 07, 2013, 01:10:25 PM »
Since my good ol' 60d doesn't have afma (thanks, Canon!) I'm new to this with my 6d and would like to ask some people with more afma experience for advice.

I just adjusted my lenses with Magic Lantern's dot_dune module which is basically a free in-camera version of FoCal and found that neither of my f4 zooms need afma (well, the 17-40L +1) at all at either end, at least not at the distance I could test them with in my room. I wonder...

1. My 100L seems to need more afma the longer the lens-subject distance gets. Did I do something wrong, is this normal behavior so I actually arbitrarily need to pick my favorite distance I'd like the lens to af? Do I need to test my 70-300L at longer distances than the 2m right now for accurate results?

2. I don't understand the scale of the afma values - does for example make the +5 of my 100L @1m a difference at the dof of f2.8 in real life? Or is this overcompensated by the camera's and my human's focusing variance anyway unless I shoot on tripod (and in this case would use focus peaking or contrast af)?

If a shot was framed too tight and I'd like to add some space around it, for example for print and framing - what options are there?

Is there a plugin to extrapolate the edge of the frame a bit so that the extension becomes less visible than a plain color, or a plugin to do a non-linear stretch so that the outer sides of the frames are stretched while most of the inner part remains the same (I know for the latter there is a plugin with this idea for AviSynth video processor)?

How do you do it? Thanks for any insight :-)

EOS Bodies - For Stills / 6D af tracking: experiences & usage cases
« on: October 15, 2013, 03:40:14 PM »
So I've at last bought a 6d and am fine with it because I knew what I was getting and what for. Still, Canon didn't dare to cut tracking completely - so the 6d does have an "ai servo"ish feature. After trying to use it a bit I'm not yet convinced I've got the best settings and handling method and would like to ask for your experiences.

1. Single af point tracking. So far I've found the outer points are bad for single point tracking, certainly worse than my 60d which has crosspoints and also up to +0.5lv light sensitivity. The 6d has trouble locking focus on low contrast areas like horses' foreheads, which also shows in stills shooting but really becomes a problem when trying to track in portrait position. Any different experiences?

2. Multi af point tracking: From 5d2->6d Canon didn't only reduce the af points from 15 (inc. tracking helpers) to 11, but also cut the firmware hook to select focus patterns through Magic Lantern - so you're stuck with either all or one af point.

My short experience indicates that when not tracking an elephant running towards you the 6d does a bad job choosing the af points and for some weird reason tends to ignore the good center point. If "center point with outer point tracking helpers" would work, the close af spacing could be a blessing in disguise - but somehow I found the selection to be rather erratic. Is this due to a not optimized Canon firmware, do I have the wrong settings or was I just unlucky so far?

3. The 5d3 has "af cases" which link the af settings to neat packages. With the 6d, you're on your own to find the best combination for different uses. I was trying to track running horses (from me, to me, parallel to me) - what do you track and what settings do you find work best?

  • Tracking sensitivity: I'm using "responsive" since I try to keep the object in the center af point - what's your experience with multipoint af, is "responsive" too erratic?
  • Accel./decel. tracking: I'm using higher values, or does this in your experience generate a too erratic behavior with the mediocre 6d af points?
  • AI Servo 1st image priority: I'm using "release" because I'd rather get an out of focus shot than lose a good one - or do you find the 6d is reliable enough to determine when the first shot is in focus?

Disclaimer: This thread is intended to help 6d users with tracking and multipoint af, if you don't have something helpful to add feel free to participate in another thread about the 6d's greatness or regressions vs. the 5d3.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Is ff metering more aggressive than crop?
« on: October 07, 2013, 02:44:11 PM »
I've recently bought the 6d and expected the metering to be just the same as on the 60d - but that doesn't seem to be the case(?), though both use the same 63-zone metering system.

To me, the ff metering system seems to be more aggressive, and I'm more often running into blown highlights than with my 60d - esp. since the amount of highlights "hidden" in the raw and only accessible in postprocessing is much smaller on the 6d.

This is an important difference, because esp. with flash & ettl you're really depending on the camera metering system, and I see me using -ec, spot/partial metering, exposure & flash lock more often than with the 60d where eval metering and "shoot away" usually worked.

Question: Is my impression correct and ff/crop metering is different, or have I've gotten it wrong during my rather short time with the 60d?

Some time ago, I've been told by an alleged pro photog that real photogs don't crop, or at least only do minor angle correction. I am wondering if this is true, or it is an old-school fairy tale from the analog age that falls into the category "real photogs don't use auto iso and only shoot in full m".

I've gotten much better framing my shots, but I wonder if squeezing the last pixels out of your camera makes sense all the time. If I have a hard time framing a wildlife shot just right to get max. resolution, the Nikon guy next to me just shoots 24 or 36 mp and then crops some, gaining flexibility (aspect ratio, different framing) while probably not loosing much iq for usual print/screen sizes.

When shooting raw stock you cannot crop, or with 1000+ shots of an event you of course don't want to crop some pixels from every one - so a 100% vf (which my 6d doesn't have) makes sense in these cases.  But I also have recently experienced some situations where a couple of pixels to one side could have really helped in postprocessing, but I always have this nagging feeling that leaving more space around a subject simply isn't considered "proper".

Thus the question: How do you do it - better safe than sorry, or go for the full "no cropping, please" experience?

EOS Bodies / 6D: LCD protector w/o air bubbles?
« on: September 29, 2013, 04:12:53 PM »
Canon didn't grace the 6d with the swivel screen of the 60d (turn to protect) or a glass lcd like the 5d3, so I'd like to invest the money Canon saved in a 3rd party glass protector...

... Problem is: As a result of the natural and smooth, round 6D finish (edit: Amazon reviews state that) the screen is not planar but slightly bent, esp. on the top right. I currently have a thin plastic lcd cover, and it does show air bubbles in this region.

Did anybody manage to find a glass or comparably sturdy 6D lcd protection that applies *without* air bubbles beneath?

Esp. anything *glued* to the screen seems to have this problem (see attached image with black glue border), what *might* work is a much more expensive glass cover that only electrostatically attaches (image with "hama" brand). Any experiences?

Technical Support / 5d3/6d silent shutter: faster, slower or equal wear?
« on: September 25, 2013, 04:07:45 PM »
If shutter lag time isn't an issue: Does shooting in silent shutter mode protect the camera since it's moving the mirror slower(?), i.e. putting less physical stress on the components? Or is the max. shutter rating due to the curtains failing, meaning silent or normal shutter doesn't matter? Thanks!

I'd like to get a "as cheap as possible" android phone for 6d remote control and would like to ask for advice here. I've never gotten a smartphone before, I don't really need any smartphone capabilities, it's really just for this one purpose and voice telephony.

Are there any experiences with different phone types that don't really work with eos remote, what are you using?

Edit: It seems a tablet would be really better suited for me, so I extended the topic to match this change.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / How does read noise actually affect image quality?
« on: September 20, 2013, 05:31:44 PM »
Since somehow every sensor thread seems to degrade quickly into gibberish and brand fanboyism, I'm a bit embarrassed to admit that I still don't get how the real world impact of a camera's read noise is.

My current understanding: traditional non-Exmor sensor designs have higher read noise at low iso which also affects max. dynamic range (but this thread isn't about dr). Also read noise doesn't equal banding artifacts, see the lower 7d figures - but this model has higher banding due to the dual readout channels. says: @iso 100 / 200 / 400 / 800:
7d: 8.4 / 4.7 / 3.3 / 2.8
60d: 13.2 / 8.4 / 4.4 / 3.2
5d3: 33.1 / 18.2 / 10.6 / 6.1
6d: 26.8 / 14.6 / 7.9 / 5.1

Question: Except for long time astronomy exposures, when (if at all) does this mean that shooting at higher iso might/will give better iq than at the lowest iso setting? Thanks for explaining!

Lenses / What (nd) filter to put in the 17-40L back filter holder?
« on: September 20, 2013, 05:01:53 AM »
I recently realized my 17-40L has this back filter holder :-p and I now even have though of a use for it: With my 10x glass screw-in nd filter I don't get long enough shutter times for cloud blur in bright daylight, so I'd like to add another gel nd filter.

Question: What nd gels do I get to put behind the 17-40L?

Lenses / Effective iq for same dof on ff vs. crop @ same shutter speed?
« on: September 19, 2013, 06:03:33 PM »
This is a thought experiment I've been wondering about, I hope I understand the basics correctly :-p ...

Let's say I want to have a certain depth of field and use a full frame and a crop camera with the same shutter speed. When going from crop to ff, I'd need to close the aperture to get the same dof for the same field of view. At the same time, I could raise the iso to counter this light loss with the ff and to remain at the same shutter speed.

Question: Which iq (noise, ...) is better: crop with lower iso or ff with higher iso? When shooting handheld with a macro lens at macro distance, maybe shooting with a crop is even better than ff if a large dof is wanted?

Technical Support / How to fix a physically broken sd card?
« on: September 19, 2013, 04:02:02 PM »
After 3 years of pulling it out of the camera and putting it into my laptop, my trusty ol' 32gb sandisk finally broke - the front part with the pins fell out because the plastic sandwich construction came loose.

However, I only then realized that the front part *is* the actual sd card, there's nothing but empty plastic in the back part - if I tape the thing together again, it works in my laptop, but won't fit into the camera.

Question: Is there any way to get hold of a replacement sd "chip" holder so I can continue using the front part that obviously works perfectly fine? If I'd bought a micro-sdhc with sd adapter the solution would be simpler...

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