January 31, 2015, 10:05:57 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Marsu42

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
Technical Support / Any way to extend a failing shutter's life time?
« on: September 06, 2014, 08:31:35 AM »
My old 60d's shutter shows some hiccups then and again, usually the first frame after the camera hasn't been used for a while (like the attached picture) or after a lot of fast brackets the camera crashes with err80. I'd like to keep the crop camera around for a while for macro work though, so:

Question: Is there anything I can do to make a complete shutter failure less likely? Like probably...
* don't shoot at high shutter speeds (like what? no 1/8000? or even no 1/1000?)
* don't shoot at max x-sync speed which needs the most precise shutter sync (60d: 1/250s)
* don't shoot in hot or cold conditions (like what?)
* talk to the camera in a calm voice

Edit: This 60d's shutter now has 160k cycles (it's rated for only 100k).

Thanks for any hints (even if I learn there's nothing I can do)!

On the slight chance anyone has figured this out, unlikely as it is:

I'm often playing back postprocessed images onto the camera for viewing and reference. This worked just fine with my 60d, but the 6d crashes on zooming if the file as *any* exif metadata attached. So the only way is to remove all exif data which is unfortunate since it cannot be used as in-camera reference anymore.

Did anyone manage to figure out what exif data is required for proper in-camera usage? Even copy/pasting the whole metadata from a sooc file doesn't work, I think the embedded jpeg thumbnail (or lack of) is to blame.

My original decision for Canon back then was because they had these fantastic silent usm lenses that allow you to mf at all times even when the lens is set to af. However, nowadays I find myself using af most of the time except for macro (Magic Lantern focus peaking...) and some in between landscape shots. When in doubt I rather take some safety shots in case the camera's af screws up.

I am wondering: Do I have to learn to mf because I'm missing out and would get better results?. One opportunity would be horse shots, I often struggle to get the eyes in focus as they are rather tricky to af when the horse is looking directly towards the camera. Another opportunity would be people portraits and mf'ing the eyes with thin dof.

The reasons for me using af (except for macro) are:
  • The vf on my crop 60d is too tiny to see anything and the 6d is still a lot smaller than my old analog film eos cameras. This makes it very difficult for me to see where the focus is, esp. outdoors.
  • I don't have much experience setting the correct mf override, so af focus & recompose is quicker.

I'd like to ask for your experiences and input on this: (When) do you use mf or af override? Thanks!

Edit: Clarified poll options, I hope if squares with the intent of the people who already voted. Usually you perform a pre-test when doing polls :-o

Photography Technique / Intentional "wrong" afma for creative backfocus?
« on: August 21, 2014, 03:10:37 AM »
I was always wondering if this is possible and would like to ask around for experiences: Afaik the servo af simply focuses to the front of the object, at least my 60d/6d do. Now there would be the possibility of intentional backfocus for ...

a) using the optimal dof because focusing on the very front results in a 1/3-1/2 dof thick layer layer of sharp air
b) getting an animal's eyes (or even human's?) in focus because otherwise the nose (or whatever front part) is in focus

Obviously the problem is figuring out the correct afma value, did anyone try this and succeeed?

Imho it's pity today's dslrs are still so dumb you cannot tell them "please focus 1cm behind" because the lens does return an approximate distance information. With Magic Lantern, you can use extended afma values of -100...+100 (Canon fw only allows for 20), but they don't have access to the af module yet.

I'm in the EU and the most I get with my cheap 6d+60 is cps silver, no matter how many lenses I own :-\ ... but on the other hand it's free. The repair terms seem to be similar with the big brothers (pun intended) across the ocean, so I guess everyone can share their experiences:

The "Service Turnaround" is given with 5-7 business days.

The question is: This is only a "nice to have" recommendation, and if for example a part is unavailable it can take "as long as it takes" w/o me being able to do  anything about it, correct?

The day before yesterday I was surprised by a thunderstorm and shot with my 6d (and a sealed 70-300L lens) for about 5 minutes in the rain. I did my best to still protect the camera and wrapped some cloth around it, but some rain hit it. Afterwards I dried it with a towel as good as you can in a thunderstorm and stored in a waterproof bag.

Problem 1: The back buttons (Q/INFO) and the joystick buttons started malfunctioning after a very short time after the rain began. I have not experienced this behavior with my 60d.

Problem 2: Yesterday the camera broke down completely after some minutes of reviewing pictures - it's now at Canon service and I hope the warranty covers it. I had put it in a dry place over the previous night, but didn't use the "rice bag" method.

Question: What are your experiences with the 6d and wet conditions? Was I just very unlucky? I know the 6d sealing level is well below the 5d3 (which itself is way below a 1d), but after this experience I'll have to tread my 6d as I would a Rebel :-\

Photography Technique / UWA odd angle postprocessing howto
« on: July 08, 2014, 07:51:38 AM »
Since I've got a ff and my 17-40L I'm more and more leaning to the wide end because the results look interesting to my eye.

Problem: I often have difficulties finding a horizon or post-processing rotate angle that looks ok-ish. This turns out to be most difficult if it's an odd-angle shot and there are no orientation lines or the lines aren't right angle themselves (like skew trees in the background or a sloped/non-even horizon on a hill).

What I'm doing is right now is subjective trial and error ("nah, another 0.1 degrees clockwise") but whenever I look at it again it still seems to be somehow odd. Most annoying is that a "gravity down" approach with the camera's sensor also doesn't always look correct. To me :-p

Question: Do you know or have developed any guidelines on how to find the "best" post-processing angle? Do you often do tse-like perspective correction on these shots? Or do you simply accept the fact that these shots never look right unless you're there and your body know where the gravity is?

With all this never heard of and exciting 7d2 news on CR </sarcasm> I wonder about one thing: How long does it take for Canon to assemble a "pre-production" camera body or lens -  and what is this anyway? Near production or held together by super glue? And are Canon parts so compatible they can just stick together all parts at will, or do the components need month of fine-tuning and adjustment to work?

Bottom line of the question is: Do the existence of "pre-production" models mean anything concerning a release, or are they as worthless as the patents that are posted on CR every once in a while?

Portrait / Mobile studio portraits - am I doing this properly?
« on: June 02, 2014, 08:32:38 AM »
I did some standard portraits the other day for a guy who wanted some shots for an agency's stage background actor portfolio... that's why I tried to go for some Hollywood style with expression from earnest to smiling.

I had a plain background that happened to be available, an umbrella next to him, one flash on bracket and one flash below. The eye reflection didn't work out at all because the flashes weren't in the proper position, I need more flash tripods and a hairlight in the back. The eyes also aren't 100% in focus, obviously my lens needs some afma for that distance. Other than that, I know next to nothing about portraiture, so I'd like to ask for some feedback - thank you!


Last weekend I shot some frogs in a pond, setup was my trusty old 60d, a 100mm macro-cpl and a flash for fill on a bracket (to quickly switch from left to right). I was using Tv with max. x-sync of 1/250s and iso 800, the max. you can get away with on corp. The resulting Av was usually f6.5-f11-ish.

Since I'm planing to go there once more next weekend if the weather is ok, I'd like to ask you all for some feedback on what I can improve - framing, lighting, postprocessing, everything really since I'm still learning to do stuff. One thing I'm not entirely happy about is the double reflection from sun and flash, but this cannot be helped since I need the fill flash in noon light?

Note that these are live, happy and free frogs. Thanks for any feedback and helping out!

Photography Technique / Thin dof posing/shooting advice
« on: April 30, 2014, 07:25:35 AM »
I'm currently shooting street people with their pets (well, dogs mostly, though I'm still looking for rats :-p) for a charity animal doctor project - a line of work I'd like to expand upon. Something like this...

(Edit: url removed, I've got a model-release agreement, but still don't want to link them over the net.)

"Problem": Now that I've got this shiny new full frame camera I have come to realize that I cannot get two models at once into the dof, at least not if one is an animal. I always end up shooting @f9-f11 for safety which kills the bokeh and has a distinct mobile phone look (well, my lens is white). Since I like the compression I'm usually using 100-200mm with my 70-300L.

Question: How do you big f2.8 people do it?! I try to get the models into one focal pane, but this really limits the choice of positions and micro-guiding the scene looks less natural. Do you seasoned photogs have any kind of advice on how to get some nice background blur in combination with in-focus shots which are usable at a larger print size like a calendar?

Technical Support / How (not) to clean the phase af array & vf screen?
« on: April 23, 2014, 03:36:58 PM »
I'm shooting outdoors a lot and my 6d has gotten quite dirty - as I just learned this might be the reason why the outer points have such a mediocre performance. I clean my sensor all the time, but have never have done this with the af array and vf screen (shows a lot of dust specs).

My first idea would be the rocket blower, but if that doesn't help is there anything I should *not* do to clean these? I faintly remember someone writing the matte vf screen is very sensitive and improper cleaning can ruin it...

Technical Support / Err 30 (stuck shutter) once - get it serviced?
« on: April 08, 2014, 03:21:20 AM »
Today when shooting quick series of shots I had a err 30 on my 6d (with hss flash, if that matters). It went away after a power cycle.

I researched the net and at this stage it doesn't sound too serious, but do you think I  try to get it services anyway as it's under warranty with cps? Or will they tell me "Well, we did a few test shots and everything's peachy"?

Not only 4k with global shutter, but they obviously had a good look at 5d3 Magic Lantern: 12ev dynamic range with 12bit raw recording (should keep data rate a bit down vs. 14bit ML). And it has a swivel screen :->


I know this isn't exactly a LR forum, but in the abscence of a 7d2 or 35L rumor for over a week :-p probably someone can help:

My workflow contains exporting to different aspect ratios for screen and print (2:3, nearly 2:3 paper size, 16:9, 16:10, sometimes 4:3). Problem is that with Lightroom, I currently have to add another virtual copy, crop it and sync all changes from the master (there is a commercial plugin for this) to the copies. All in all, quite a pita.

Is there some smarter version to have different crops in a single LR shot and export all these cuts in one go, most likely via a plugin I'm not aware of? Am I the only one with this annoyance, do you only export 2:3 and everything's peachy?

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10