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Topics - Marsu42

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Lenses / Effective iq for same dof on ff vs. crop @ same shutter speed?
« on: September 19, 2013, 06:03:33 PM »
This is a thought experiment I've been wondering about, I hope I understand the basics correctly :-p ...

Let's say I want to have a certain depth of field and use a full frame and a crop camera with the same shutter speed. When going from crop to ff, I'd need to close the aperture to get the same dof for the same field of view. At the same time, I could raise the iso to counter this light loss with the ff and to remain at the same shutter speed.

Question: Which iq (noise, ...) is better: crop with lower iso or ff with higher iso? When shooting handheld with a macro lens at macro distance, maybe shooting with a crop is even better than ff if a large dof is wanted?

Technical Support / How to fix a physically broken sd card?
« on: September 19, 2013, 04:02:02 PM »
After 3 years of pulling it out of the camera and putting it into my laptop, my trusty ol' 32gb sandisk finally broke - the front part with the pins fell out because the plastic sandwich construction came loose.

However, I only then realized that the front part *is* the actual sd card, there's nothing but empty plastic in the back part - if I tape the thing together again, it works in my laptop, but won't fit into the camera.

Question: Is there any way to get hold of a replacement sd "chip" holder so I can continue using the front part that obviously works perfectly fine? If I'd bought a micro-sdhc with sd adapter the solution would be simpler...

Lenses / AF hit ratio with 100L and portraits?
« on: September 18, 2013, 02:51:15 PM »
I was recently practicing portrait photography with my old 60d and the 100L, usually set to f2.8. Unfortunately, I find the af misses a lot, much more than in macro photography - am I doing something wrong?

I was using focus & recompose on the eye due to the lack of af points on the 60d, and in good light the lens missed about 1/3rd (some near misses, some real out of focus), and in bad light the af hit ratio was a sheer catastrophe but that's simply because the 60d doesn't af in dim light. I wonder:

* Is my technique wrong? The 100L has a very slow af as a macro lens, but is 1/3rd misses in focus & recompose with aperture wide open what I should expect... I waited for the af confirm after all? For macro, I nearly never shoot wide open.

* Is my camera af broken or maybe dirty? I recently also find my 70-300L @f4 missing somewhat more often than I remember. Btw I never tested the lenses for afma since my 60d hasn't got it anyway.

Edit: I could add some sample pictures if that helps, I didn't throw the bad ones away yet.

Lighting / Please explain how multi-group ettl preflash works?
« on: September 14, 2013, 03:37:48 PM »
I know what ettl2 is and what the preflash does in general, what I'd like to understand is how multiple groups work.

* Is it that every group does successive pre-flashes on their own so that the camera can determine what ettl ambient/flash ratio to set?

* Is this also the reason why pre-2012 don't work in group mode as they are only able to meter two pre-flashes (a:b and c) and rt requires up to five (a-e)? However, even if so Canon could at least have made it possible to use groups a+b in ettl and d-e in m flash mode (not to bash Canon, just for my understanding of the system)?

I'm wondering: What's the use of the new wifi remote control in practice, given that you cannot move the camera/lens itself? And with the upcoming 70d you can just the swivel screen for awkward angles...

... Is the wifi app just an enhanced self portrait gadget or has anybody managed to pull off some shots that wouldn't have been possible otherwise, for example shy wildlife? None of the Canon marketing examples really convince me :-\ but I'd be not surprised if there were creative uses I currently cannot think of.

Btw one of the shortcomings seems to me that as usual there is no sdk, so we cannot expect 3rd parties like Magic Lantern to make use of this feature for focus stacking, timelapse, motion detection, trap focus ... and the Canon apps seems to be limited to p&s.

EOS Bodies / Play Arkanoid on your Canon dslr :-)
« on: August 15, 2013, 07:47:16 AM »
Fyi hot newsflash: Magic Lantern has not only the Sokoban puzzle, but the most recent module lets you play ARKANOID on your dslr - take that, Nikon DR junkies :-> ... it should be included in the latest nightly builds. Go, Magic Lantern, go!

Lighting / Is ETTL2 metering the same on all Canon models?
« on: August 09, 2013, 12:18:06 PM »
Question to long-time Canon shooters with access to different models:

Since my 60d sometimes shows strange behavior in ettl mode (like +-1/3 ec has way more impact than half of +-2/3) I'm wondering if Canon is constantly revising the algorithm and what / how noticeable the differences are, for example on Canon's latest systems like the 6d.


Lighting / Which gel holder for the 600ex-rt - original or 3rd party?
« on: July 30, 2013, 10:01:27 PM »
I'd like to buy effect and color correction gels for my 600ex-rt flashes, and there are decent offers from the UK cut for the original Canon gel holder - see

However, I'm not so sure if the Canon gel holder is really the way to go, and the flash afaik won't recognize 3rd party gels anyway so there's no need for large gels that cover the sensor... Questions:

* Do you use the Canon gel holder with the 600ex-rt or did you buy other holders (which) that take other/smaller gels (which?)?

* Do you use a plastic gel holder at all or simply velcro-strap the gels to the flash (with the added advantage that this method works on all other flash types, too)?


Lighting / Which coldshoe for 600ex-rt type (sealed hotshoe) flashes?
« on: July 30, 2013, 09:06:31 PM »
I'm very good at loosing small plastic parts, so I'd like to stock up on some coldshoes for my flashes. I've already tried to order one version, but it doesn't really fit because the rubber part on the hotshoe gets crammed inside the coldshoe, there is no lock and the flash tends to fall off (picture of this version attached, it's the black gadget). Before I waste money on other overpriced plastic pieces:

* Did you find any type of 3rd party coldshoe for putting on the ground that is equivalent to what Canon delivers (no, thanks, I'm not buying an original Canon part for this :-p)?

* I also need a foolproof coldshoe just to attach the flash to a bracket or tripod, something like the blue thing in the attached picture, but I'd be ok if it was cheaper than this patented version...

Thanks for any help, I cannot predict how these ebay offers really fit and I'm not willing to pay €20 in a local camera store for e 2 ct plastic piece, call it principle if you like :-o

With the 6d imho being designed to be cheap in production, I'm wondering how far the price will drop further, esp. with the 70d also targeting an "amateur/enthusiast" crowd but with different needs.

So, in the grand old tradition of my price polls, vote and be able to say "I told you so" :-) ... and the prices are for the U.S., in Europe the 6d sells for a *lot* more which imho will also change sooner or later.

EOS Bodies / 70d price discussion & poll results
« on: June 29, 2013, 04:47:49 PM »
Since the price is now confirmed here are the results (for pre-order price see thread

Canon is realistic this time:
25% of you were correct
12% guessed too low
63% guessed too high
- don't you Nikon trolls trust our favorite brand to be reasonable :-p ?

# --

I really like my price polls, because at least with the 5d3 very few people estimated how sky-high the price tag would be on release. Now it's your chance to prepare your next "I told you so!" post:

Will Canon this time fight Nikon on the same level, will they try to undercut them like with 60d/d7000, or will they sidestep Nikon with the new live view af and try to make a healthy profit like 5d3/d800?

For anybody who hasn't seen them: Here's the thread about the [cr3] rumored specs:

P.S: Please vote for what you think the price will really be, not what you'd wish it to be.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Medical joint overload by heavy dlsr?
« on: June 27, 2013, 04:59:41 AM »
Currently I seem to be getting into a chronical a medical condition because my equipment seems to be too heavy for the way I handle it: The whole 60d+70-300L+600rt-flashbracket package rests on the last joint of my ring finger, and my physician advises me strongly to change the way I shoot or stop doing it, at least for 8-10h straight every other day.

Problem is: I don't know how to even the load on my hand, esp. with the flash bracket because I cannot attach a hand strap at the same time. There are lots of people with expensvie (i.e. heavy) equipment on CR, and I'd like to ask you for your advice:

* Where does the whole camera load sit with you (with me it's the ring finger and a bit of the index finger of the right hand)? Do you carry the weight rather with the left hand that holds the lens?

* Does a battery grip help to even the load because you can grab the camera with the whole hand?

* Does a larger grip like 5d2/3 vs 60d/6d help because you need to cramp the hand less?

Edit: Using a monopod is not possible for what I'm doing...

One more reason to use Magic Lantern not only for video: With the new capability to read raw sensor data they've got two great new amazing features for still shooters.

* Raw histogram even in "normal" photo-mode (& of course live view): Unlike the Canon version you can see beyond the jpeg range, this should be a great even for people who never used ml before. Also it's amazing that Canon *didn't* add this feature in their fw, not even for 1d cameras...

* Automatic ETTR: Now you can auto-expose to the right to max. dynamic resolution & minimize noise with clipping prevention!

* Silent DNG burst pics (capture the live view image w/o flipping the mirror) - it's not full raw resolution and it might show the usual movie moire, but you can capture successive shots in 14bit raw as long as your cf/sd card can keep up :-) ... for example my 60d takes 53x 1737x1156 shots in <10sec, other more newer & better camera bodies have a larger lv resolution and deeper buffers für 100+ shots.

These features aren't yet available for all cameras, if you want to try you've currently got to use a nightly build:

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Do you trust your camera?
« on: May 06, 2013, 06:07:02 PM »
When shooting scenes that I consider to be "keepers", with my 60d I am always taking multiple shots because I fear the af won't be spot on. The actual "real" af misses are maybe 5%, however more often the large af points miss slightly when trying to af on small points for example the eyes of a horse looking towards me.

Another issue is IS which only improves statistically so even with good IS systems like 100L and 70-300L I always take multiple shots because in my experience there are visible differences even with the same settings.

That's part of the reason why I'm now @120k shutter cycles, apart from running focus stacks and bracketing. Also sorting through very similar shots and deciding which is a little better than the other is annoying and time-consuming.

I'm wondering: Am I doing something wrong or different than other people? If you have a 60d or other cameras (what about 6d/5d3), do you trust your af and lenses so much that you  take just one shot even of important scenes?

Lighting / OC-E3 ettl-cord original vs 3rd party quality?
« on: April 25, 2013, 06:08:09 AM »
I recently ordered a Yongnu OC-E3 ettl cord from the other side of the world because it's so much cheaper than Canon. After some time having it on a flash bracket the metal base plate on top of the adapter where the real flash goes started to wobble, and recently it came completely off - the metal screws with the hotshoe were torn out of the plastic plate.

This doesn't come as a complete surprise since having a heavy 600rt flash mounted in an angle and walking around with this puts quite a torque on the base plate of the ettl cord...

... My question is: Is the Canon original any better, or are there sturdier 3rd party oc-e3 ettl cords? The Yongnu otherwise is fine, but the metal screws into plastic is just cheap and cannot take any strain at all (at least my copy).

Edit: Added pictures with torn off base plate

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