August 29, 2014, 04:30:16 AM

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Messages - Marsu42

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EOS Bodies / Re: 6D MKII
« on: August 24, 2014, 03:33:22 AM »
Well here is my wish list for the 6D MKII its not long:

Keep wishing, my guess is that the current 6d will stay around for quite a while like it is. The longer Canon sells it, the more profit they make after getting back their r&d money and I guess longer production also means lower production price. If anything, they'll lower the 6d1's price further instead of replacing it, the cheap construction means it's meant to be flexible for further discounts.

And the thing keeps selling and will continue to do so as it's essentially a good sensor in something build around it that doesn't matter too much. Unless there is a serious upgrade in sensor tech, imho Canon won't replace it. And if they do a leap in tech, they'll first put it into their flagship cameras (7d, 1d, 5d), so until it trickles down to the 6d it'll be quite a while.

The last possibility for pressure to upgrade 6d1->6d2 would be Nikon or Sony, but Canon has demonstrated that they don't really care about the competition's specs as long as they've got a similarly priced offer at all: Many people are tied to Canon by their gear or years of usability experience with this system.

Site Information / Re: NEW ___ Sell Your Gear - Beta Test
« on: August 24, 2014, 03:24:45 AM »
Only a small handful of users have asked to try out the buy and sell forum, at this point, I'm wondering if the effort already expended was time wasted.

I know the board software is rather limited (but much nice to look at than your standard vbb, btw)... but anyway, here's a wish:

I usually use the "Show unread posts since last visit" option to scan for new threads that could benefit from my wisdom and deep photography insight :->. Currently, this is being spammed by "17-40L" and the like threads that are only "for sale" posts very few people will be interested in.

Could you please:
a) add an option not to let this subforum show up on the  "Show unread posts since last visit" list, or ideally let the users select what subforums they're interested in at all
b) if this is not possible: Add a mandatory prefix "For sale" to posts in this subforum so they are recognizable at first sight.
c) remove this subforum, personally I don't really think its necessary esp. since the CR memebers seem the be spread around the globe and I'm unlikely to buy used gear from another country.

Thanks for considering!

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 6D True High ISO King?
« on: August 24, 2014, 03:19:10 AM »
Now, I'm not really interested in yet another 6d vs 5d3 debate, but it's hard not to reply :-p ... but I'll try to let this be my last comment on this specific issue.

Is it logical to just take a camera based on your needs ... Again, if you think 6D isn't the "best" for you then why choose it?

Oh my, that's good ol' CR "Just get a 1dx, 70-200L2, 24-70L2 and be done with it" :-> ... I'm rather amazed about these questions, but fyi I can think of 1200 reasons with an € label attached :-o

You said "it's the complete package that counts".  Now, that's not being logical.

On the contrary, though I admit this was not very precise. I define "complete package" as Canon marketing and statistics would define it, i.e. what what user groups willing how many $$$ to spend need... and then they do or modify the specs.

Imho there is a rather linear "complete package" scale, Rebel "shoot your family on birthdays" group have different needs than the enthusiasts around here. For example looking at the posts, users who buy a ff also want some sort of sealing and pref. a 100% vf - so Canon uses these pieces of information to assemble packages like "6d good sensor / lacking sealing / cropped vf" and "5d3 has it all". These are just examples from the top of my head, but you get the picture.

5d3 vs 6d is a tough choice for me, if I were given either to use regularly for free and could not sell I'm not sure what I would pick.

For me it wasn't because I'm $$$ limited and bodies loose their price much quicker than lenses. I keep commenting on the 6d's af shortcomings as I'm annoyed Canon crippled it beyond what would have been required to separate if from the 5d3.

But truth is, *if* the shot is in focus (and that's not difficult with landscape and such) it has terrific iq and significantly less banding than the 5d3, and at the end of the day people aren't interested in how many shots were lost but only how good the one shot left is. So if I don't lose the shot of my life because the 6d's af fails I'd rather spend the 6d->5d3 difference on lenses, because that's what you see (through).

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 6D True High ISO King?
« on: August 23, 2014, 02:32:50 PM »
Until then, comment likes "6D center AF point works better than 5D III in low light" is just an imagination.

Even though I'm rather critical with the 6d and Canon marketing, they do say that the 5d3 works up to -2lv, the 6d at half this light. I really doubt there is absolutely nothing to it, the question is if it's really a full stop, how slow the cameras are to af at min. light and how often these situations occur.

I was reminded of an argument not a long time ago that some people can't accept that a lower-priced camera can have a better sensor than its significantly more expensive sibling (in the *same generation).  ::)

Nothing unusual about that, it's the complete package that counts, and of course Canon (and every other manufacturer) will take great care that more money means better overall performance. If you have special needs you can sidestep this system (like landscape with the 6d), but you cannot really escape the logic.

Last not least, if you don't want to read anything about 5d3 vs. 6d don't look at a "6D True High ISO King" thread :-p

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 6D True High ISO King?
« on: August 23, 2014, 05:04:29 AM »
I do not think 6d is bad camera.

Well, I have it and I do, at least in comparison to the 5d3. Though the reduced banding vs. 5d3 is very nice, the af system simply isn't adequate for this day and age and price tag. The -3LV focus capability of course is a marketing stunt by canon to give people the feeling they don't have the all out inferior product, they usually do this (flip screen on 60d vs 7d, nice colorful paint on Rebels...).

My 6D reliably autofocuses at LV -6. I think it's light value and not exposure value that is the important quality in this discussion, but if I'm incorrect let me know.

Ugh? It's the same, you can calculate the LV from av/tv/iso/ec exposure values. See

Photo below was taken today, around 8:30PM California time. 5D III + 40mm pancake, Av mode @ f5.6, shutter 1.3sec, ISO12800. SOOC, no edit, only resized to post here.

This is also a fast lens (f2.8, the af system works wide open), as for example the 70-300L @300mm really autofocuses at f5.6.

As for the scene: Focus capability not only relies on the LV calculated by the exposure, but you also have to have some edges for the af system to lock on and an *even* light distribution. The enhanced 6d af system is beneficial if you for example af on a landscape scenery in ambient moonlight (and not on the moon edges itself).

In your case, you had more than ideal conditions - the candle center would be rather bright, and the book provide good edges - that's why the af worked so fast. If it would have really been the 5d3's ev limit, I suspect the af would have been much slower. The LV calculated from your very uneven exposure doesn't tell us anything.

It's unfortunate nobody ever did a real comparison 6d vs 5d3 on the *same* scene so we could tell if the 6d superiority here is a myth or not.

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 6D True High ISO King?
« on: August 22, 2014, 05:23:48 PM »
Once again, I disagree. I don't have any issue taking picture with 5D3 under any lighting condition.

That's probably because you've got fast lenses, try af'ing with a f5.6 lens (70-300L on long end) at dusk and you're happy about the 1 more stop of af capability the 6d provides. It's very slow though in these cases, but nice for landscape and such. It really does af in moonlight, I've tried it with my one fast f2.8 100L lens.

Still can be a fairly high failure rate though.

Great to find someone who had the same idea and actually tried it!

What's the cause of the high failure rate - problems figuring out the correct afma setting for the distance offset or the fact that you need different afma settings for different subject distances?

When I view a shot such as this I think, well maybe a little back focused but how in the world could the focus ever be 100% - an eyball is not likely going to catch the algorithim like an eyelid so it may be focused on the front or rear eyelid or .....??

I deeply sympathize because I recently tried to shoot macros of horse eyes to see other horses reflections. You don't really want to know how many frames I needed to get one in focus shot with f5.6 on ff. If you look closely, you can see my shadow with the macro lens directly in front of the horse :-p

The reason I'm posting this shot is to agree that afma doesn't matter at all in these cases, there are so many other variables that determine where the focus ends up. The afma idea of this thread is for tracking something like horses 5-30m away.

Edit: Reposted, mackguyver's comment above now applies to this post below. Please note that I managed to annotate the picture with the camera settings used, including the object distance :-)

But how good is your eyeball? Some people believe they can do better than their camera. I doubt that.

I know I can mf better than my camera's for handheld macro, i.e. when the camera and/or the object are not steady. Not because my eyesight is better than the latest japanese tech, but because the lag between mf+press shutter button is shorter than af lock + picture taken. If I try to one-short af in these cases, the focus has changed already.

For other occasions esp. f2.8- at closer distances, I would speculate that I'm at least as good as my camera simply the 6d's af is so bad with fast lenses.

I am mostly one shot AF, but when I use Servo I have "Back Button OFF" for AF not back button ON, I find I get better results and my thumb doesn't work a fraction as hard.

That's interesting and worth starting this thread alone, I'll try that - I've always been wondering what this "af stop" setting was really about :-o

Part of that is the crappy AF focus screens in most cameras these days that make f/8 look as bright as f/1.2.  That's nice, but even with my better than 20/20 vision, I can't focus worth a damn using them.

Good to hear I'm not alone with this problem :-\ ... the vf of my old eos film camera is magnitudes better than my 6d for mf. I also cannot exchange the focus screen as my f4+ lenses would be too dark, and I need the grid screen to get the camera lined up ("horizontally challenged").

Marsu, I can't really answer your poll unless there was a response that says "It depends".

In this case I suggest voting af with ftm as this might be the most unusual setting. We all use one-shot/servo/mf sometimes, but this is about either af override with ftm or selecting af/mf via backbutton af. I'll try to clarify the poll above.

If it were a simple switch, that would be fine, but otherwise, it's too slow, and if you forgot to switch it back, all other shots would be out of focus.

No problem there, I can program/script Magic Lantern to tie different afma settings to a button.

but it would be possible to lock onto the head (or riders head [even at f/2.8, 300mm] as shown below) with relative ease using a 5DIII or 1D X and have AI Servo track it.

It depends on the distance, but with my 70-300L @300mm/5.6 or @180mm/f4 the dof on horses near you is way to thin for this to work. They eyes are out of focus, and even if only slightly so this kills the "alive" look of the animal. Using a deeper dof is also no option as the background quickly gets too distracting or the shutter speeds is too low.

You can pre-focus as well to get perfect focus for action shots and use an off-center point, or focus/recompose on the eye for portraits.

Hmmmyes, but the wild horses have the uncanny tendency to do something different than you expect them to :-p ... I've gotten better at predicting them though, that's why I manage to get any servo af shots in focus at all.

On the slight chance anyone has figured this out, unlikely as it is:

I'm often playing back postprocessed images onto the camera for viewing and reference. This worked just fine with my 60d, but the 6d crashes on zooming if the file as *any* exif metadata attached. So the only way is to remove all exif data which is unfortunate since it cannot be used as in-camera reference anymore.

Did anyone manage to figure out what exif data is required for proper in-camera usage? Even copy/pasting the whole metadata from a sooc file doesn't work, I think the embedded jpeg thumbnail (or lack of) is to blame.

Technical Support / Re: Question regarding sensor size and image quality
« on: August 22, 2014, 07:58:08 AM »
The full frame 'look' such as it is is likely (as mentioned above) the ability to use shallower depth of field and more vignetting - but this is only the case for certain lenses, at certain apertures.

This, plus occasionally
- better tonality (bigger pixels (yeah! :-))
- less postprocssing artifacts on heavy edits
- less noise reduction, i.e. less "wax" look
- vastly different bokeh look ef lens on crop vs. same ef lens on ff
- a more "optical" and less "digital" look, not only by vignetting but also by sharpness falloff

Technical Support / Re: Question regarding sensor size and image quality
« on: August 22, 2014, 07:34:51 AM »
Another difference is typically the FF body/lens combo will have the optics stopped down more, potentially getting it nearer to optical perfection than the smaller sensor equivalent.

... unless you're shooting macro, with the ff I end up well in the diffraction zone in no time so actually the my crop 60d produces the better images than my shiny new 6d. Plus with macro, to get the same fov crop & ff the latter will have a lower effective f-stop at close distance, so the iso advantage is no good either.

the big advantage of mf in landscape is to achieve maximum depth of field using hyperfocal distance. sometimes focusing in the point of interest isnt the better choice if the subject is beyond a certain distance and you will lose DoF

Indeed, and in these cases I use Liveview, Magic Lantern and focus peaking (and their hf calculator). The occasions when I struggle between af and mf are live scenes with people or animals, it's either af with focus & recompose or mf (override) attempts.

Btw: I split the poll options above between mf/back button af and mf/ftm, maybe we'll get some more people to vote and then a precise result might be interesting.

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