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Messages - Marsu42

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1846
You need to learn how to use keywords and keyword hierarchies.

+1, don't use categories ("folders") since that's not the lr way - if you want to filter down something use smart folders ("keywords contain "grandma" and "birthday" and "2012-04-01").

Start with using both date and location based keyword hierarchy.

It's also nice to geo-tag your shots, either through LR4 and metadata presets or even (and still) better with the free geosetter software that automatically adds location keywords (lr: write keywords, tag in geosetter, lr: read keywords).

You have to be religious about tagging though.

It's best if tagging is done right after import, so that there aren't lots of untagged photos floating around.

1847
Lighting / Re: Batteries to speedlites
« on: February 18, 2013, 01:36:30 AM »
ive heard many using goodard and calumet too..,


I've got the calumet powerblock 900, got it for only €100 when they had a rebate, way cheaper than quantum and so on and does what I'd expect it to do: http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/eng/product/calumet_speedlight_powerblock_900/cf0192

1848
Lenses / Re: New Canon USA Lens & Speedlite Rebates
« on: February 17, 2013, 08:49:00 AM »
Time to take a trip out of Europe!

Well, yes, but only after exploring lonely beaches where I can jump of the ship to circumvent European customs (= afaik paying 15% import tax plus 19% vat). And the US don't have my fingerprints and digital biometric picture yet (even though I truthfully(!) declared on all forms that I don't want to kill the president), that's why I am sad to say I didn't visit for the last years and have to wait for the next Canon EU rebate :-o ... another issue is the US warranty, I wouldn't even know if it's the foreign one is valid w/o the "EU" print on the lens.

1849
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Nikon d7100 might be annonced next week
« on: February 17, 2013, 08:10:01 AM »
Any chance they put the 5d3 autofocus system in the 7d successor?

The af arrays for full frame and aps-c are quite different, no chance of a straight port from the 5d3.

I don't think Canon's product line will be influenced by what Nikon makes in the short run.

Imho the opposite is true - just with the d600/6d Canon will make sure the d7100 competitor (i.e the 70d) will have at least some appeal, just like the "one good feature" 6d has with the low light af center point.

1850
Lenses / Re: New Canon USA Lens & Speedlite Rebates
« on: February 17, 2013, 08:00:26 AM »
Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8L II ($200)

Harrgnnn - no fair, in Europe Canon only rebates low- to midrange gear, people who the interesting gear like the fast L primes or the 24-70L2 obviously are expected to have the cash to pay full price :-\

1851
Lenses / Re: Is your midrange gear insured?
« on: February 17, 2013, 07:44:25 AM »
Is there a reason you always carry all your gear?

Um, because I don't know what I'll shoot through the day and want to have all focal ranges covered (macro, uwa, standard and tele)? If sticking to one lens and flash works for you it's great, but I guess most people buy their gear not to admire or select at home but to change lenses from time to time - and I bought my lenses like the 70-300L because I am still able to take them with me unlike other larger and heavier versions like the 70-200L.

50 bucks a year? What insurance company is this? I just went online and got a quote for $600 a year. And thats not pro cover. That would be the cost of a small lens every year! Pretty sure I could afford NOT to pay that!

I just wrote the rates at least from a standard insurance in Germany in a post above - but the offers seem to vary between countries a lot.

1852
Lighting / Re: Batteries to speedlites
« on: February 17, 2013, 04:06:46 AM »
I use an external battery pack to get quicker recharge / longer useable duration on my EX580 II. Battery pack takes 8 AA batteries plus 4 in the speedlite - allows me good 800+ shots. Pretty economical :)

+1, though "cheaper" Speedlites don't have an external battery connector (Thanks Canon!) - you can add it yourself though, there are instructions on the net. But I very seldom use the external battery pack, the weight & cord is a hassle, and the 600rt has a very good recycle time on it's own - so it's only for situations when I'm shooting tons of flash shots in quick succession.

1853
Lenses / Re: Is your midrange gear insured?
« on: February 17, 2013, 04:02:06 AM »
+1 and as someone who worked for an insurance company I can concur. Amount paid out in claims is a pittance compared to what they make. What does that tell you?

I don't think it's quite as simple, and nobody confuses insurance companies with charity, that's why I never had me as a customer. But I know there are legit cases, and I would be one: If I loose my €8000 gear, I cannot replace it because I simply don't have the money. Money I don't have doesn't pay me interest in the bank. So for risks that are too great to cope with on my own (same thing: health care) I consider insurance a good idea, even though it's basically another means of transferring wealth from "have nots" to "haves" because as written above if you've got enough money insurance might be considered a waste of it except if you want to pay for a subjective "peace of mind".

The chances of losing absolutely everything are pretty low (especially in a double-brick house with only a wooden roof to burn).

My "problem" is that I am very well able to carry 100% of my gear around, and often I do, it's (or will be) "only" 2 camera bodies + 4 lenses + the usual flash-filter stuff. And it's all conveniently packed into one bag, though I try to make it look as cheap as possible from the outside...

.. .and fortunately, in Germany there seem to be ok companies like the one menitoned above that is specialized in dslr equipment so figuring out what the terms are should be possible even for non-lawyers like me. The rates are reasonable or to be expected, I guess:

0€ co-payment: 3.25% of gear value
100€ co-payment: 2.5% of gear value
250€ co-payment: 2.0% of gear value
1000€ co-payment: 1.6% of gear value

1854
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 6D vs Nikon D600 Epic Shootout Video
« on: February 16, 2013, 10:59:32 AM »
The 6D has certain limitations that will make it harder to leave the 7D at home for sport/wildlife applications.

That wouldn't change with a better 6d dr and af tracking system: it's very hard for a ff camera to beat aps-c simply due to the reach advantage: that would only be possible with a 45mp+ sensor where you cropping from ff would really be like a 100% crop image.

So not designing an entry-level ff camera not around expensive tele primes is a sound decision - it's the af point spread and outer precision that can make the 6d so disappointing even for non-wildlife shooting.

1855
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: DPReview: Canon EOS 6D Reviewed
« on: February 16, 2013, 10:46:53 AM »
And I will happily repeat, that  the  6D is a poor piece of crap, a warmed-over 5D2, without any real advantage as far as sensoran d IQ is concerned.

The 6d has less banding, a problem that seems to have plagued a lot of 5d2 shooters, and Nikon only has more dr in low iso. That doesn't make the 6d a more innovative camera - but without putting too much a fine point on it, I don't think you'll let facts stand in the way of your opinion anyway.

1856
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Nikon D7000 or Canon 7D/7D2/70D
« on: February 16, 2013, 09:32:05 AM »
Hi! I need some advice from the pro over here before I can make-up my mind for the gear selection.


Both systems have advantages and shortcomings, you need to know what you want to shoot and if there are any Nikon/Canon "only" items you need/want. Other than that, if you can't get good shots out of a Canon you won't be able to with a Nikon aps-c and vice versa.

The flash systems are incomaptible (the "intelligent" ettl2-part at least), so you have to decide - shooting as a non-pro with both systems doesn't sound clever. Since there is no 7d2/70d (yet) and the 7d is old it'd say stay with Nikon, it's not like you loose the option to switch later on though selling gear always costs net money.

The one and only reason I'll stick with Canon is Magic Lantern - ask your Nikon pals about custom firmware for their cameras with all the video & stills features of ml, you can even script what your camera does: http://www.magiclantern.fm

1857
Lenses / UV or clear protection filter?
« on: February 16, 2013, 08:41:42 AM »
In my recent unintentional trivia series "I'm clueless, please help me out" I've stumbled across another question: I thought using uv filters were just a rip-off for old school amateurs who didn't know that a digital sensor isn't sensitive to uv - or for people who find a uv filter that is cheaper than a comparable clear filter.

My web research supports this, but I was told that just because it's in the Internet it isn't necessarily correct... and I've recently come across one application that might still prove a need for an uv filter except for protection or lens sealing:

* Vari-nd filters or two stacked polarizers - in contrast to "real" dark glass nd filters, they let uv pass and though the sensor is not very sensitive to uv, it still might make a difference with long exposures.

Is this correct? Are there any other reasons to get an uv filter over clear glass?

1858
Lenses / Re: How to reduce the nd filter warm color cast?
« on: February 16, 2013, 08:05:41 AM »
marsu42
ok good you are finding the info to answer your problem! great info hunting!

Thanks :-) and maybe no surprise the manufacturer doesn't say: shooting with this filter will generate a color cast and lower contrast in high ir conditions, but you have to pay a *lot* more for the solution that fixes it and our stacked solution won't work for wide angle lenses at all so go and look elsewhere :-o

1859
Lenses / Re: How to reduce the nd filter warm color cast?
« on: February 16, 2013, 07:44:15 AM »
Doesn't have to be IR.  if you look at the transmission curve for the B+W 3.0, it starts to rise from 'neutral' at about 630nm.

Um, is this the same with the Heliopan filter (I couldn't find the information through google, and the manufacturer seems to think otherwise)?

And if I understand you correctly you're saying "IR Polltution" cannot be a problem for these nd filters no matter the fuss about it :-o ? I'm asking because the websites I just read suggest that nd filters leak ir on long exposure shots no matter how the transmission curve is supposed to be, and the only and new (see tiffen 2008 press release) solution is a hot mirror filter.

1860
Lenses / Re: How to reduce the nd filter warm color cast?
« on: February 16, 2013, 07:31:24 AM »
like "hot mirror NDIR filters"
use Fuji ND filter behind the lens.


Thanks for the information - these two pieces (hot mirror + gelatin nd) seem to be a solution for my 17-40L and the combined ndir for other lenses - though both outside my current budget. So I'll see how the "plain" 3.0 nd filter performs in the summer with more ir radiation - but good to know what the alternatives are, but the ir polution really seems to be an issue: http://www.tiffen.com/press_release_Hot_Mirror_IRND.htm

Btw: This page has a good discussion on fixed/vari nd filters concerning ir & uv leakage: http://www.dpreview.com/news/2011/8/12/heliopan82mmnd

Quote
Magenta casts and ND filters are usually due to IR leakage in the filter. This is common, most strong filters let a lot of IR through, and most older cameras register that IR in the blue and red channels, making magenta. A good "hot mirror" IR filter should clear it right up. And it will improve your foliage colors, too.

Quote
Every camera responds differently to variable ND filters (crossed polarizers, whether you cross your own or use something like the Heliopan) and also to actual ND filters. ND filters "leak" a lot of IR light. That's why crossed polarizers are sometimes used as improvised IR filters. Crossed polarizers have an additional problems that a "normal" ND filter, a single piece of dyed glass, won't have, in that they also leak UV. Cameras have good IR/UV blocking filters inside, but when you do something like blocking 8 stops of visible light, the leaked UV and IR start to cause problems. IR typically shows as a magenta cast, UV as a blue cast.


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