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Messages - Marsu42

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Lenses / Re: How to reduce the nd filter warm color cast?
« on: February 16, 2013, 08:05:41 AM »
ok good you are finding the info to answer your problem! great info hunting!

Thanks :-) and maybe no surprise the manufacturer doesn't say: shooting with this filter will generate a color cast and lower contrast in high ir conditions, but you have to pay a *lot* more for the solution that fixes it and our stacked solution won't work for wide angle lenses at all so go and look elsewhere :-o

Lenses / Re: How to reduce the nd filter warm color cast?
« on: February 16, 2013, 07:44:15 AM »
Doesn't have to be IR.  if you look at the transmission curve for the B+W 3.0, it starts to rise from 'neutral' at about 630nm.

Um, is this the same with the Heliopan filter (I couldn't find the information through google, and the manufacturer seems to think otherwise)?

And if I understand you correctly you're saying "IR Polltution" cannot be a problem for these nd filters no matter the fuss about it :-o ? I'm asking because the websites I just read suggest that nd filters leak ir on long exposure shots no matter how the transmission curve is supposed to be, and the only and new (see tiffen 2008 press release) solution is a hot mirror filter.

Lenses / Re: How to reduce the nd filter warm color cast?
« on: February 16, 2013, 07:31:24 AM »
like "hot mirror NDIR filters"
use Fuji ND filter behind the lens.

Thanks for the information - these two pieces (hot mirror + gelatin nd) seem to be a solution for my 17-40L and the combined ndir for other lenses - though both outside my current budget. So I'll see how the "plain" 3.0 nd filter performs in the summer with more ir radiation - but good to know what the alternatives are, but the ir polution really seems to be an issue: http://www.tiffen.com/press_release_Hot_Mirror_IRND.htm

Btw: This page has a good discussion on fixed/vari nd filters concerning ir & uv leakage: http://www.dpreview.com/news/2011/8/12/heliopan82mmnd

Magenta casts and ND filters are usually due to IR leakage in the filter. This is common, most strong filters let a lot of IR through, and most older cameras register that IR in the blue and red channels, making magenta. A good "hot mirror" IR filter should clear it right up. And it will improve your foliage colors, too.

Every camera responds differently to variable ND filters (crossed polarizers, whether you cross your own or use something like the Heliopan) and also to actual ND filters. ND filters "leak" a lot of IR light. That's why crossed polarizers are sometimes used as improvised IR filters. Crossed polarizers have an additional problems that a "normal" ND filter, a single piece of dyed glass, won't have, in that they also leak UV. Cameras have good IR/UV blocking filters inside, but when you do something like blocking 8 stops of visible light, the leaked UV and IR start to cause problems. IR typically shows as a magenta cast, UV as a blue cast.

Lenses / Re: How to reduce the nd filter warm color cast?
« on: February 16, 2013, 06:26:41 AM »
Schneider has had an 82mm 10-stop ND for a while (in fact, when I bought it in 2011 they were the only game in town for an 82mm ND3.0 screw-in).

Ok, in this case I was unable to find it for sale anywhere or simply forgot about it after seeing the price :-o

But concerning the original topic: I just stumbled across a link about "IR Pollution" that doesn't just result in a color cast but lower contrast, and this is said to be fixable with a combined ir/uv stop filter: http://www.leeduguid.com.au/blog/tips/bw-10-stop-nd-filter-nd-110/

However, this filter has a big drawback: "Interference filters do not work well with wide angle lenses; light rays entering at an angle cause differing color rendition, resulting in increasingly cyan corners. It should not be used on lenses with an angle of view wider than 60° (about 35mm on a full-frame 36 X 24mm sensor)."

Lenses / Re: Is your midrange gear insured?
« on: February 16, 2013, 06:05:45 AM »
Another question since I stayed clear of insurances so far: What happens if I actually loose something and the company has to replace it? Do say "No problem, no need for proof it was really stolen or it's a fraud attempt, here's your (insert value here) and have fun with it"? Does the insurance rate rise afterwards or (when) do they cancel the contract? Sorry if this sounds silly or naive, but I really have no experience with insurances at all.

Thank you eyeland.  I have no doubt the CPU needs a heatsink, but I think I read that the 1Dc's sensor had a heatsink.  Either way, wherever the most heat originates, it will propagate, and accumulate...as you said.  And you don't want the CPU or the sensor to overheat.

I'm not doing video, but anyone interested should search in or ask in the Magic Lantern forum, the people there have lots of experience with video on different eos camera bodies and use firmware with modified bitrate, i.e. potentially generating more even more heat - and I vaguely remember problems with the 7d: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon Announces the Canon EOS 6D DSLR
« on: February 16, 2013, 12:06:32 AM »
With the 6D you settle for a less robust AF system, no second memory card, etc. to save roughly $1,000.  For me and many others that's a good trade off.

Fyi: I'll buy a 6d, too, so it's not like I'm opposed to it. It's just that I don't expect to be able to take very different shot swith the 6d vs. my current 60d, actually I'm loosing af flexibility and reach but am gaining high iso iq.

With the 5d3 af, I'd be able take completely other shots where my 60d af simply fails - so the 5d3 doesn't have a more "robust" af system, but a really different level. I think it's currently wiser to invest the 6d/5d3 difference into filters, lighting gear and other accessories that won't loose value.

In contrast the Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L II clearly loses to the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS II at 70mm f/2.8:

Don't rely on the dtp tests too much at pixel level, they usually only test one lens sample and there's a wider production spread, so if the 70-200L2 or 24-70L2 is sharper @70mm depends on your individual lenses.

Personally, I'll get the Tamron 24-70vc because I don't need to rely on cps, I don't need f2.8 all the time (it's sharper stopped down), the Canon mk2 w/o IS is more than double (!) the price and vc is useful even for shooting people when they're posing for candids. Imho the main applications for the new Canon are photojournalism and such where the objects are moving and fast af is important and for landscape if corner to corner sharpness is required.

EOS Bodies / Re: 6D - error 30!!!
« on: February 15, 2013, 09:17:54 AM »
What was the temperature. The 6D's operating temperature is recommended at from 0-40C though I feel that it is not too rigid.

Doh - does this happen often? I have shot up to -10 degrees Celsius this winter, I hope I didn't risk the shutter because that wouldn't have been worth it (my 60d is also 0 to 40 degrees C).

Lenses / Re: How to reduce the nd filter warm color cast?
« on: February 15, 2013, 09:12:25 AM »
Buy LEE or schnider optic.

If you're talking about schnEider :-> optics (B+W) - they are just releasing their 82mm nd filters, they much more expensive than Heliopan (probably early adopter's premium) and one of the above posts also states that b+w also has a color cast - so I went for the cheaper Heliopan w/o coating (it's not supposed to let through light after all).

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon Announces the Canon EOS 6D DSLR
« on: February 15, 2013, 08:08:13 AM »
I was looking at some old reactions for 6D.  I was surprised that some of the people bashing 6D are the same ones praising it or at least giving it some credibility nowadays.  :) ;D

Even if repeating myself: Imho it all depends on the price, because with the 6d you're basically buying good iq (well, and wlan/wifi if you need it). So "just" good iq for €2100: no, but "budget" good iq for @1500: yes.

Lenses / Re: How to reduce the nd filter warm color cast?
« on: February 15, 2013, 08:06:03 AM »
Now I'm confused: a) all I find are UV *or* IR filters, what is the manufacturer talking about and b) does this work & is it necessary or is it trivial to remove the warm color cast in post-processing?
It's only non-trivial if you shoot JPEG. If you're shooting RAW you have full control over colour in PP.

True and I shoot raw, but as paul13walnut5 full control doesn't mean easy control if it's not something that clearly falls into the wb or color slider category - so if each picture would need individual treatment it'd be easier to fix the problem while shooting with another stacked filter as the manufacturer suggests.

But from what I read, wb usually does the trick esp. if nobody knows how the real scene looked - my filter just arrived and I'll see this weekend how I can handle the color shift.

Lenses / Re: Is your midrange gear insured?
« on: February 15, 2013, 03:16:23 AM »
Get all your gear, and all your receipts (I hope you still have them), and you'll be surprised.

I was esp. surprised that almost no orders from overseas contained a correct receipt, they were either declared as "gift" (China) or the €150 value was magically reduced to €20 for EU vat & tax evasion (US order). I didn't ask for this, though I admit it didn't bother me then, but when insuring the gear it'll be a problem. But most likely I'll go the way to only ensure the more expensive items of €100+ and not every lens cap or hood.

Lighting / Re: Weird ettl ec behavior - is this just me?
« on: February 15, 2013, 02:51:19 AM »
That is odd. Gotta think about it. Can you post some shots?

Unfortunately I always deleted them right away and set the correct camera ec, but next time I experience this problem I'll post them here.

You have a good system... 60D and 600EX are good products... although the newest cameras now have rgb metering which reduces auto and TTL flux lots.. its still not perfect.

Thanks for everybody's answers, and yes - my system is very good, after all afaik only the 1dx series has rgb metering (and of course cheaper Nikons, doh). That's why I'm so spoiled and expect my system to work all the time. And for bounce/fill near-macro shots and outdoors fill flash it usually works very reliable, though I have to fiddle with both ec values a bit to get what I want - but in comparison to full m flash this is of course extremely convenient.

But as written above I'll start shooting full camera m more often, just bought the Syl Arena book and will experiment with m flash more often - it's a lot to learn when coming from the "p&s" av+ettl2-experience, but I acknowledge it's more reliable in changing light or with reflecting surfaces, so I have to know how to do it.

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Chinese aftermarket guns
« on: February 15, 2013, 02:17:27 AM »
As far as I know, Canon RT and Yongnuo (YN-622) radio systems are not compatible. A 622 transceiver can control any modern Canon Flash but only through another 622, not through Canon's built-in RT. Similarly, Canon's RT system cannot control a 622.

I'm really looking forward to someone reverse-engineering the Canon rt protocol and 3rd party rt gear is available. I hope it's possible and Canon didn't prevent it by (too strong) encryption and that the protocol itself isn't protected by patents - nowadays just about everything seems to qualify for a patent.

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