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Messages - Marsu42

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2056
Lenses / Re: 100mm L not for portraits?
« on: January 29, 2014, 10:46:15 AM »
As long as they were still for the duration of setup and exposure....

Maybe it's about time to bring back the neck holders so subjects don't move during exposure like on portraits in the 1800s :-o

2057
Lenses / Re: 100mm L not for portraits?
« on: January 29, 2014, 10:08:12 AM »
All part of the learning experience and if anyone here says they have never had the same issue, they are telling fibs!

What you need to do is to re-define it as a personal photography style, then you'll never have the "issue" :-p

2058
Lenses / Re: 100mm L not for portraits?
« on: January 29, 2014, 08:22:48 AM »
One can simply download a DoF app on their phones.

What good is that on its own? If I want to have to required f-stop between a tree 100m away and a hill 130m away, do you carry a long enough stick or an adequate optical tool :-p ... imho your best bet is Magic Lantern, it shows the focal distance in m and you can *then* input into a smartphone. If you have one. Working & with you. Which I haven't. Both not.

With digital, I guess Canon expects people to revert to simply trial & error, that's why they removed a-dep.

2059
Lenses / Re: 100mm L not for portraits?
« on: January 29, 2014, 07:06:55 AM »
In the old days, manual focus lenses had DOF markings for different apertures, nice and useful.

In the olden days, some Canon bodies even had a helper mode "adepth" for this - af at spot one, af at spot two & it calculates the required f-stop... alas, newer cameras have you-dont-wanna-know how many creative zone programs, but this has been lost along the way.

2060
Lenses / Re: 100mm L not for portraits?
« on: January 29, 2014, 04:30:00 AM »
Of course is this lens for portraits. But what am I doing wrong?

Grab a "depth of field" calculator and look how deep the dof is for what you've shot (distance, aperture), the result is for a usual export/view size.

Then you'll see why "thin dof posing" is part of a photog's toolkit, if you want to have some background blur or are shooting at close distance, esp. macro, you cannot close the aperture enough to get everything in focus or end up with extremely high iso or very long shutter times.

The problem (if you see it that way) gets worse with a full frame camera, for "everything in focus" snapshots with deep dof a crop, compact camera or a mobile phone might be more adequate... for everything else, you need to put some thought into it before pressing the shutter button :-)

2061
Photography Technique / Re: " Back Light Macro Tricks"
« on: January 28, 2014, 02:55:21 AM »
please share the settings used, especially the flash power settings

My experience: for this, ettl is great. You have to experiment just a bit with flash ec & camera ec, what is required is to expose to the right w/o clipping whites, raise the shadows enough so you can further raise them in post w/o shadow noise or banding, but not so high that the texture is destroyed. Using a flash bracket (moving animals) or multiple off-camera flashes (static scene) is smart to avoid a harsh drop shadow and texture flattening. If you shoot in anything other than noon sun use a cto gel, it saves you removing the horrible blue flash color cast in postprocessing.

2062
I will wait till it is more to at least the beta stage before I try out Magic Lantern on my camera.

Definitely a sound decision when in doubt, only problem is that the ml devs have no schedule at all for a beta or even release stage - all this would mean additional testing and documentary burden, and the resources are allocated to developing new features.

This is certainly fine by me as I'm experienced with ml and can code modules and patches myself, I just want to prevent disappointment if a "stable" ml with the newer features might take quite a while to arrive.

2063
Macro / Re: Odd ways of macro photography
« on: January 27, 2014, 01:49:52 PM »
It's no fun to see someone putting your "real" macro lens photos to shame with a setup like this :(

Remember these are web-sized images, at least my reverse 50/1.8 shots immediately fell apart when zooming in, making the 100 non-L superior even though the reverse setup had a higher nominal magnification. And if you use a good wide angle lens that results in enough reverse sharpness you'll come into $$$ regions of a "real" macro lens, with proper af and all :-)

2064
do you mean that the ML folks determine that using full ISOs is the recommended course of action to decrease noise and optimize DR? Or do you mean that an ML hack already makes this a moot point?
The latter, though I wouldn't call it a hack - by fine-tuning the full iso stops the bleeding edge Magic Lantern is able to crank an additional 1/3-1/2 stop from full isos, much more than any potential improvement you'd get from Canon's 1/3 ev steps.

I have the night off, so I'll try to do it tonight.
Really, under these circumstances don't bother - the ML rand libraw devs are on this with a lot of more time (and probably expertise) than you could currently manage: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=10111.msg98298;topicseen#msg98298

2065
Photography Technique / Re: " Back Light Macro Tricks"
« on: January 27, 2014, 10:13:06 AM »
When I am boring from typical Photos shooting, I try to do some thing difference. Here are some of my tricks.

Thanks for bringing this up, I absolutely love back lighting and do it very often.

In my experience, the problems are a) the limited dynamic range of Canon @low iso so you need some kind of fill flash or risk blown highlights, b) Lightroom isn't ready for it, the highlight recovery & fill shadows sliders aren't strong enough so you need to revert to some special software or method (DxO, Photomatrix or fake hdr/fusion with enfuse or such).

2066
Macro / Re: Odd ways of macro photography
« on: January 27, 2014, 10:09:42 AM »
This interesting post was published in Nikon Rumors, yesterday
http://nikonrumors.com/2014/01/26/odd-ways-of-macro-photography.aspx/#more-71000

Thanks for the link, the water drop with the reverse lens look great ... however my own attempts before buying a "real" macro lens were less than mediocre, I learned that a) for this you want the lens to be as wide as possible, 50mm doesn't cut it and b) the iq of the 50/1.8 is not good enough. The best lens for this method probably is a old-school, sharp wide angle lens with manually lockable aperture.

2067
I look forward to your tests, have you managed to do it yet?

Hopefully not, the latest Magic Lantern research adding 1/3-1/2 stop to full isos make the 160x values completely obsolete, even if they're a tiny bit better than Canon's defaults.

2068
Lighting / Re: Beginner's guide to "how to mount an umbrella"?
« on: January 27, 2014, 09:59:00 AM »
Basically, you need a light stand and an umbrella swivel, plus a cold shoe on which to mount the flash. 

Ok, so Manfrotto 1051BAC + Manfrotto 026 + coldshoe ... looks reasonable.

The bugdet question: Are there any off-brand copies of these, like in exploiting poor workers before they jump from the factory roof (or, well, nearly like this)? Or are these Manfrottos already so reasonably priced that anything cheaper will break in no time?

2069
Lighting / Beginner's guide to "how to mount an umbrella"?
« on: January 27, 2014, 08:16:33 AM »
For indoor portraiture, I need some portable(!) soft lighting and after some research the Westcott collapsible seems to be good value (maybe in conmbination with a reflector on the other side): http://www.amazon.de/Westcott-43-inch-Optical-Collapsible-Removable/dp/B001OKBLEE

Question is: How do I mount this thing and my flash? I have to admit I'm rather confused by the variety of stand/boom/bracket/screw/whatever combinations, is there some tutorial available on what "best value" mount to get? Thanks & feel free to inquire further if my description is too lacking to get some advice.

2070
Canon General / Re: Review: Canon EOS 17-40 f/4L by DxO Mark
« on: January 26, 2014, 04:02:55 PM »
If you are going to get a full frame L lens for a crop camera get one of the 24-x lenses, and then buy a Ef-s Ultra wide.   24-x is fine for an outdoor zoom in wide open places.  Save buying the ultra-wide full frame lens for when you buy a full frame camera.
That makes sense, and incidentally is exactly what I did when I decided to but glass to prepare for the move to full frame later on. I had the Tokina 12-24 f/4 DX at the time, a bombproof piece of kit that was!

I also agree - the important thing is that the 17-40L on crop is "good enough" to be very usable, so you can either get it before moving to ff or dual-use it on crop & ff.

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