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Messages - Marsu42

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2056
Lenses / Re: Poll: Most Wanted New Lenses of 2013.
« on: May 06, 2013, 06:40:56 PM »
  • 180mm f/3.5 IS Macro
Done.

...and plz change the vote to "members can change vote", I already voted something else from the list and I don't think locking the vote is necessary here.

2057
Lenses / Re: Poll: Most Wanted New Lenses of 2013.
« on: May 06, 2013, 06:19:42 PM »
  • 180mm f/3.5 IS Macro

2058
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Do you trust your camera?
« on: May 06, 2013, 06:07:02 PM »
When shooting scenes that I consider to be "keepers", with my 60d I am always taking multiple shots because I fear the af won't be spot on. The actual "real" af misses are maybe 5%, however more often the large af points miss slightly when trying to af on small points for example the eyes of a horse looking towards me.

Another issue is IS which only improves statistically so even with good IS systems like 100L and 70-300L I always take multiple shots because in my experience there are visible differences even with the same settings.

That's part of the reason why I'm now @120k shutter cycles, apart from running focus stacks and bracketing. Also sorting through very similar shots and deciding which is a little better than the other is annoying and time-consuming.

I'm wondering: Am I doing something wrong or different than other people? If you have a 60d or other cameras (what about 6d/5d3), do you trust your af and lenses so much that you  take just one shot even of important scenes?

2059
maybe i wasnt up to it , but i expected to get at least get lucky enough a few times! this time around it was a complete failure on my part!!!!  im very confused!

I'm also rather new to photography, but in this limitied experience I'd say that "semi spray'n pray", i.e. having some clue but also relying on luck, heavily depends on daily form (I hope I got the correct word, I'm not a native speaker).

On some days, I'm just producing crap shots, no matter how many shots I take. This is indeed confusing but I have learned to recognize this and settle back accordingly. I understand this separates an amateur like me from a pro who can take good shots in any situation no matter what.

Still, you can learn from it - after calming down look through the shots, try to identify what you can recover in post and what you did wrong while shooting, read up on composition and then do better next time w/o relying on lucky shots :-)

2060
IN CAMERA! It's all about getting it as best as can be in camera. Post………go ahead and rely on post, if you like that sort of thing.

When shooting something like architecture I don't think getting it right in camera is an absolute requirement (fewer shots, while heavily pp'ing thousands of shots of an event is a pita).  You can also use focus stacking to get a large dof while keeping the lens at the sharpest aperture, you're most likely on tripod anyway.

You cannot achieve the same effect that a TS lens can do for you in PP.  Depending on the amount of shift there are cases where you can get somewhat close, but a TS lens is the only real solution.

+1 - though recent software like the new dxo viewpoint gives much better results than bare lr and fixes horizontal/vertical lines, but it cannot reproduce the main advantage of a ts-lens: If doing it in software you're massively loosing resolution if correcting more than just a bit - and you need to shoot with much more space to avoid clipped parts (see sample processed from low-res source).

But in my recent, limited experience when shooting for smaller output resolutions and correcting for some angles software is just fine, even a t/s lens doesn't move your camera so the point of view is often feels a bit unnatural to me.

2061
Depends. If you're subject is changing, focus stacking might not give you the result you want (i.e. grass waving in the wind). Sometimes the only way to get the shot is to increase the DOF.

Correct, I just didn't want to elaborate on focus stacking  but just mention that it isn't only good for macro shots but you can do nice 100% dof landscapes with it, too - in many cases when something is in motion you might get lucky and the software will figure it out and still assemble the shot correctly w/o artifacts.

2062
I couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger either.  It will be interesting to see if anybody was able to buy one for $629.

In Germany, there was a recent ruling that obviously mistaken offers are void (like a 5d3 for €3 and not for €3000) no matter if you got an automated confirmation or not. What about the US, if I order from there is the price valid in any case?

2063
Some month ago, the GO where I am working bought some Cams for documentation. There we were definitifly told, that it is technically impossible to use the AF on an lens thath has an beginning aperture of >=8 on the 5D MK3. - Now it is possible. Interresting.

The af performance with narrower aperture simply drops, meaning slower (with a Canon tc) or less reliable (with a Kenko tc) af. As proven by the pin taping method, simply disabling af in these cases is mainly marketing to sell the 1d/5d3 cameras and more expensive (i.e. wider aperture) tele lenses.

2064
EOS Bodies / Re: Why no crop mode on 5d mkiii 1dx
« on: May 06, 2013, 03:30:47 PM »
no magic lantern can only reprogram the arm  processor. the crop mode is a function of the digic. I believe it can be added as canon firmware upgrade.

Afaik many functions on the digic are hardwired, there's no "reprogramming" possible by neither ml or Canon - if the digic is designed only to put out raw files that cover the whole sensor (or reduce them to m or s raw), then that's what it is.

But the ml devs are still discovering what the digic processors can do and canon didn't use in their fw, so there's still the potential for big surprises like the raw histogram recently discovered (show the *actual* white clipping, and not just what would be clipped in jpeg mode!).

2065
OTOH if you need to have a wide DOF you don't really have a choice

You do - use focus stacking.

2066
Macro / Re: not only insects or flowers ...
« on: May 06, 2013, 03:22:58 PM »
That's a feature in Magic Lentern that seems useful to me, but I haven't used ML.

The big disadvantag of the ml software solution (and manual focusing) in comparison to a macro sledge is that the former has to reconstruct data that isn't there since the size of the image changes when focusing - in some cases this will show, esp. when having a object in the foreground occluding the non-bokeh background. Magic Lantern works great for "simple" shots of a tilted plane like this watch.

2067
Reviews / Re: Review - Canon EF 24-70 f/4L IS
« on: May 06, 2013, 01:52:37 PM »
Personally I'm with you on the Tamron 24-70, however it's quite a heavy lens. Trust me, it's heavy.

"heavy" really is subjective, depending on your experience with heavy lenses, the camera/body balance and esp. the lens' length creating torque on the wrist - that's why the 70-200ii feels so heavy to me and the Tamron didn't when I tried it.

So, basically this lens is a solution in search of a problem.

:-) I will add this to my favorite phrases, but imho the problem with the older 24-105 flooding the market and the way too expensive and IS-less 24-70/2.8 was present first for Canon, so the 24-70/4 is attempt to be on the profitable side again.

2068
Macro / Re: not only insects or flowers ...
« on: May 06, 2013, 01:44:02 PM »
The depth of field is so short that a lot of pictures have to be taken with a small change in the manual focus and then to be fused.

Looks nice, you should really use Magic Lantern Focus Stacking to automate this, and personally for shots like this @f8 (lens peak sharpness) and for 100% crop I have to take 10-20 stacked shots to assemble it w/o out of focus segments.

2069
so you shouldnt take a photo at f10 for a landscape shot?

You should the aperture that covers the depth of field you want to have in focus (2/3 in front, 1/3 behind the focus you tell the camera) - if it's f10 that's what it is, diffraction only really shows at much smaller apertures depending on the lens maybe f16+ ...

... but if you have the choice or want to evaluate sharpness take the shot at the aperture your lens is sharpest at, and that very much depends on the lens but is afaik always <f10 even on lenses that need to be stopped down. In your shot, I don't think f10 was necessary, because the both subjects quite far away so the area covered by the dof will be large ... cheaper or older cameras even have an a-dep mode to tell you what aperture you need.

i should have added, i did use a cokin CPL on a lot of these shots including this one.

I'm hesitant to use a cpl as a general color pop filter, but for removing haze (your shot) or reflections - esp. with wider angles you quickly get sky color differences that are impossible to remove in post, ymmv.

2070
The nature of AI servo (and particularly with the 60D) is that the AF will do a lot of hunting even when the subject is still.  With the 5D3 that is improved with the 70-200 2.8L IS II due to the closed loop AF feedback you will get with the combo.  the lens will report back it's position to the camera as confirmation that it's there.  WIthout the feedback the camera needs to shift the focus back and forth around the focus point to tell where the lens actually is.  It's very fast but often leaves you with less keepers..

Off topic, but out of interested: Does anyone know if the 6d has these closed loop improvements like the 1dx/5d3? I know the 6d cannot use the improved precision of the latest lenses, but its precision has gone up some from the 5d3 and I could not find anything about it being closed loop or not.

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