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Messages - Marsu42

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EOS Bodies / Re: Why do you want a FF Mirrorless?
« on: November 22, 2012, 03:11:59 PM »
- 5: It will happen. ... ... eventually. For now there's no denying that phase-detect is faster than phase-in-sensor and contrast-AF. But with enough R&D it will happen.

... and once it does, we'll be on digic8 and have an electronic viewfinder you cannot tell from an optical one, though it'll drain power which is the tradeoff. That means all the information and assist you want in the vf, zebras, focus peaking, ..., and af ("points") everywhere. And 100fps if you want it because there's no mirror to flip.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: What would you do? Crop or FF
« on: November 22, 2012, 02:18:14 PM »
I wouldn't bother with a 7D or 60D, given that you have the T2i/550D, which has essentially the same sensor - so from a point of view of IQ, you don't get any improvement.  The only reason to move to a 7D is if you need environmental sealing, better AF or more fps.

... and better usability (lcd display, back wheel, more firmware features) which is a big plus - I wouldn't want to go below a 60d. But of course this is a bad time to get the 18mp sensor - the old 18mp cameras will be cheaper after the rumored 7d2 update.

3) Buy Used 5DIII (LensRentals sale) or 6D and 40mm pancake ($2300).

Unless you really want to shoot sports or track your kids imho the 5d3 would be overkill, the 6d has almost the same sensor (a tiny bit less mp but probably a bit better noise). You most likely don't need the pro-oriented features - the 6d is targeted exactly at your customer group, and even with some tracking might be working (wait for the reviews). Remember the camera body is the part that looses value fastest and the lens takes the pictures.

Would it be worth $1050 and would you trade FF for the lack of a normal zoom lens?

If you've got a steady income and can build your kit lens by lens, there is no need for a zoom if you are ready to change lenses if needed (i.e. you don't shoot events and have to quickly zoom in and out).

If you are struggling with this purchase and think "that's it", then think again - what situations do you shoot and what lenses are required, and esp. what additional items will you need (cf/sd cards, flash(es) + addons, tripod, filters, ...). The stuff next to the "core" gear will probably cost you more than you think.

Lenses / Re: "Native" ISO... is it real and does it make a difference
« on: November 22, 2012, 01:59:22 PM »
structive:  http://home.comcast.net/~nikond70/Charts/PDR.htm

Thanks for the link, great comparisons there - I'm surprised the current 18mp aps-c sensor has about the same dr as 5d2/3 up to iso 400.

And I'm really looking forward to my first ff camera - where my 60d is getting non-usable (iso1600+) the 5d2/3/6d(?) shows nearly no noise with very little loss of dr. But of course that's not because high iso on Canon ff is so good, but because low iso is so bad (select Nikon d600/d800 if you are ready for the shock...).

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Sigma 35 f/1.4 DG HSM First Impressions
« on: November 22, 2012, 01:45:40 PM »
As was mentioned by someone else earlier in the posts...How does a 35mm replace a 50mm? They are two completely different focal lengths.
... unless you dual-use them on two different sensor sizes - 35mm on ff = ~50mm on crop, a good combination and that's why the prime I'd get would be 35mm.
I think u mean a 50mm on  FF and a 35 on  a crop? Were we supposed to magically know that??? LOL,

Um... no: 35mm lens on ff equals 35mm * 1.6 (crop factor for Canon aps-c) = 56mm

Lenses / Re: "Native" ISO... is it real and does it make a difference
« on: November 22, 2012, 12:01:33 PM »
Regardless, a blanket statement to shoot at 1-stop multiples of ISO 160 is not universally applicable advice...

Luckily, the Magic Lantern devs have figured out what iso is "best" - and it's rather surprising and more complicated than one might think because an analog and digital component is involved. Btw, setting the iso via ml gives better iq than via Canon :-)


Are ISO 160 multiples the best to use?

NO. They have harsh highlight rolloff and intentionally clipped details in highlights. I have no idea why.

Are ISO 100 multiples the best to use?

NO. While they do have smooth highlight rolloff, they are digitally pushed by a small amount (the exact value depends on picture style and other settings). What does this mean: a small amount of raw data, which actually has the best SNR possible, is simply thrown away.

Then, what is the best ISO?

To the best of my knowledge, the best ISOs are the ones available in recent Magic Lantern versions (April 2012 or later), obtained from ISO 100 multiples adjusted with a small amount of negative digital gain:

    ISO 85, 175, 350, 700, 1400, 2800 - best for Neutral -4 and other low-contrast styles.
    ISO 80, 160, 320, 640, 1250, 2500 - good for a wide range of situations.
    ISO 70, 140, 280, 560, 1100, 2200 - best for high-contrast styles.

To enable them, set DIGIC ISO gain (in ISO submenu) at -0.2/-0.3/-0.5 EV and dial your ISO from ML menu or shortcut keys.

Lenses / Re: "Affordable" telephoto lens for wildlife
« on: November 22, 2012, 11:47:54 AM »
It's only disadvantage compared to the 300L is losing a stop at 300mm, which isn't too bad if you're outside.

It's not only the 1 stop more light (= lower iso), but imho f5.6 is the absolute minimum @300mm most of the time to have even a small object in focus unless it's in a right angle to the lens. Actually I'd like to shoot @f8 more often, but am limited by the mediocre iso capability of the 18mp sensor - the bokeh is still beautiful and pretty blurred.

So to me the disadvantage of the 70-300L is that focusing gets harder @f5.6, and even more so with a tc @f8 - and of course it's less sharp than a tele prime which is to be expected.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Sigma 35 f/1.4 DG HSM First Impressions
« on: November 22, 2012, 11:42:47 AM »
As was mentioned by someone else earlier in the posts...How does a 35mm replace a 50mm? They are two completely different focal lengths.

... unless you dual-use them on two different sensor sizes - 35mm on ff = ~50mm on crop, a good combination and that's why the prime I'd get would be 35mm.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Sigma 35 f/1.4 DG HSM First Impressions
« on: November 22, 2012, 03:22:16 AM »
It might be the time to say goodbye to my Siggy 50mm and get this 35mm.  Just let's see more reviews and I will make the final decision.

Don't you feel these focal lengths are so different you cannot just replace them even if the newer lens is better (and more expensive, btw - often forgotten)?

Lenses / Re: New EF-S Lenses Are Coming [CR2]
« on: November 21, 2012, 06:41:21 PM »
It was also noted that the 1100D and 60D would quietly be discontinued in the first part of 2013 with no replacements being imminent.

So they do merge the lines again after the 60d/7d split  - this probably means the the 7d2 sensor is such an improvement that they couldn't sell the 60d anymore anyway, nor can they drop the 60d price because the 650d is near.

EOS Bodies / Re: 6D Coming Nov. 30th?
« on: November 21, 2012, 05:31:55 PM »
New Wi-Fi "EOS Remote "Demo straight from Japan. Nice how fast wi-fi really works.

Yawn ... does what is supposed to to (the mobile interface was already in screenshots).

It would be much more interesting to know how long the battery lasts with wifi on (or gps) and if there'll be a sdk so 3rd parties can program apps that go beyond the basic focus & shoot of Canon.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Sigma 35 f/1.4 DG HSM First Impressions
« on: November 21, 2012, 05:11:09 PM »
How does this fit in with AFMA?

It certainly means that the Sigma is better on camera bodies w/o afma like the Rebels or 60d - I hope they refresh their 50mm, too as they did with the 120-300mm f2.8 tele which is just 1.5 years old. So less excuses for Canon to keep their current 35L design because it's sooooo expensive and difficult to design new lenses...

The new Sigma Optimization Pro software and USB Dock are designed exclusively for these new product lines and will enable Sigma users to connect their lenses to their computers to update lens firmware and fine-tune focus parameters via easy-to-use, on-screen controls.

I have a plethora of flash modifiers collecting dust and the one I have consistently stuck with for the past 4 years or so is the Demb Flip-it.

Thanks, that makes sense - exactly what diffuser do you have: http://www.dembflashproducts.com/flipit/

The Manfrotto 233B might be sturdier than it looks (and I'll try it in a shop), but my first thought when I saw it was how some screw came loose and my flash turned into a chain and ball, hitting a bystander :-o ... and really sturdy brackets are just too expensive for me atm.

One question though: I'd like to have a nicer flash reflection in the eyes than the rectangular "bare" flash, esp. on macro shots - how does the demb-type diffuser do here (If it is available in Europe at all)? Thats seems to be one advantage of the Lightsphere - it's round.

I've seen too many posts from users who claim it killed their 5D MK III as well.

Excuse me - if you run *alpha* software that's what can happen, it's plastered all over the ml site, and ml menu on the 5d3 currently shows a big warning message before you can even enter the menu!

That's why I always recommend the 5d2 if you want ml now because it's stable on these proven bodies (like 60d) - if people don't want or cannot to read or listen it's hardly the fault of ml. Canon has a large testing staff, the ml devs have only early adopters who want the features now and are willing to take the risk.

Complaining about ml on new camera bodies is like sueing McDonald's because the coffee was hot...

I prefer to angle the flash head toward the subject (45-60° up, depending on distance) which directs more light to the subject, and in that case the StoFen will throw some of the light forward (at many angles) vs. the catchlight panel which would be directing it more downwards.

Wow, great information, thanks again so much :-) - and concerning the catchlight panel (I erroneously called it pop-out diffuser) you caught me not reading the manual :-p and I'll try a real diffuser for the 45-60 degree shots which are ~90% of mine.

One option that I've used successfully is a Lumiquest Softbox III - it has an 8x9" surface which provides decent softening of the direct flash. It's about the biggest modifier that you can attach to your flash head and still move around with it (as opposed to a light stand with remote triggering).  You'll still want to get it off-camera with a flash bracket and OC-E3-type cord.  If it would help, I can take a pic of the setup I'm talking about...

* I can imagine what it looks like, and it's just the setup I have in mind - could you please share some insight about differences in ettl-cords (if any, but 3rd party is 1/3 price of canon) and what flash bracket to get, it needn't be the most expensive one but should still be sturdy & flexible?

* Does using an add-on diffuser really make a difference for bounce (the flashes have a pop-out diffuser after all)?

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