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Messages - Marsu42

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Reviews / Re: Review - The Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS
« on: April 23, 2013, 06:07:48 PM »
Bryan Carnethan at the Digital Picture rated the IS at actually better than 4ev, but testing IS is pretty subject.  I am very stable, myself.

I am rating it as "2ev+" for me personally to be on the absolutely safe side when taking a non-repeatable shot. If I wait a little for the IS to settle and am/get very stable myself it is indeed 4ev - but I wouldn't say this what I have come to expect, again for me personally.

When rating an IS system which is all about *statistics* it's also important to make clear what we're talking about: Is it just to still get an average good/usable shot after downsizing, or is it to to get a shot at full mag exactly like one that was taken with a much higher shutter speed?

In my experience, fast shutter speed and IS off beats the IS on the 70-300L in sharpness most of the time, but I feel safe shooting with 1/250 x-sync at 300mm on crop (i.e. 480mm ff) and can expect get near-optimal iq at 100% mag. Without IS I'd feel safe with 1/1000s, so it's a 2ev advantage - remember the old 1/focal length from the ol' analog days doesn't really apply here because nowadays the sensor resolution is so high.

Lighting / Re: T3i - 600EX-RT or Canon Speedlite 580EX II
« on: April 23, 2013, 03:46:46 PM »
Think harder...or at least, smarter.  Although there are a couple of minor limitations to the functionality of the new RT system on pre-2012 bodies (lower Xsync, no group flash), most of the radio triggering functions work just fine.

The loss off group flash is really hurting since this is one of the big advantages of the rt system, but the x-sync is said to be still at full speed for many camera bodies like 5d2 no matter what Canon says.

Well I bought the 600EX-RT and should get it tomorrow.

Just some advice from a fellow 600rt user:

* Immediately buy and read "Speedliter's Handbook: Learning to Craft Light with Canon Speedlites"
* Set the flash so you just need to turn the dial to adjust flash exposure compensation w/o pressing a button first, you'll want to change fec often
* Use manual zoom setting often, so only your subject is lit and not the surrounding area
* Learn to use m flash no matter how smart ettl is.
* Get a sto-fen type diffuser and a larger bounce card
* If you wantmore flashes (and you will) consider the cheaper Yongnuo flashes and radio triggers

Reviews / Re: Review - The Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS
« on: April 23, 2013, 03:37:06 PM »
here is the conclusion:  I like the lens...a lot 8)

... me, too, and I bought it back when it had a reputation as being an overpriced version of Canon's non-L lens - but it's interesting to see how it gained much more recognition since then. I esp. like the still handholdable weight for ext. periods of time and walking around vs. the 70-200Lii (ymmv).

Just a some random additions to your again very nice review:

* The 70-300L's white paint is just for show, there aren't lens elements that would heat protection like in the 70-200L. One drawback of the extending design is that you cannot camouflage and protect the lens completely with a neoprene hood.

* I really doubt Canon will add f8 af for the 6d and wouldn't advise anyone to gamble on that. On my 60d the Kenko likes to hunt on low contrast objects when using single point af, and for multi-point the 9 af points usually is spread too far apart - so while 6d/5d3 might do fine, on crop it's rather for static objects.

* Close up performance is nice when not wanting to change lenses (I took some surprisingly good butterfly shots with it), but it in no way reaches the performance of the 100L macro lens. Another issue with the 70-300L is that it is missing the focus limiting switch of the 70-200L and 100L (thanks, Canon!), so if the af misses it takes a lot of time.

* The IS on the 70-300L is really good (at least 2ev) and the lock is instant and nearly not noticeable - but there's a catch since it still needs a little time to be most effective. So for quick point & shoot it's nice to have a stable viewfinder and being able to set the af precisely, but in my experience waiting for a second is a good idea.

Canon General / Re: No Announcement Today
« on: April 23, 2013, 03:08:23 PM »
Who cares about the MP, but the low light quality, softening to reduce moire, and dynamic range are unacceptable in a new 2013 camera.

Maybe Canon got the message and the 70d will feature a 16mp sensor, but with massively improved dr and noise?

Personally, I wouldn't miss 2mp much because some mp give or take doesn't make that much of a difference, if it is to be felt it'd have to be 26mp+ from the current 18mp.

Lenses / Re: EF 200-400 f/4L IS 1.4x Available Mid 2014?
« on: April 23, 2013, 03:04:58 PM »
But Sigma will probably have one out and available for $3500 before this hits the street.

... but the Sigma won't be white, so Canon is in the clear :->

Canon General / Re: Canon Number 1
« on: April 23, 2013, 03:21:10 AM »
Maybe Canon does know what they are doing.

Being number one keeps Canon number one due to customer marketing and sheer brute sales force. If more people would shoot Pentex or even Nikon, more people seeing this might wonder "Maybe that's a good camera, too"?

But as it is, around here (northeast Germany) Canon nearly seems to be a monopoly manufacturer, I was on a general club meeting (sports, animal protection, carnival, you name it) this weekend and 99% were using Canon, from Rebel to 1d - and one Nikon. Only people who are more into photography like wildlife photogs seem to even consider another brand.

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Upgrading...Canon 60D to...GH3
« on: April 23, 2013, 02:49:25 AM »
Hey guys..thanks..not sure what i was looking for was answered...

Maybe you should leave other people some time to see the thread and answer?

1. Keep 60D - buy fast Zeiss/Canon L primes

One other thing though - on the 60d af micro adjustment was removed (thanks, Canon!) so it's not an ideal camera body for fast primes or you have to make sure the specific copies don't need afma when buying them.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 60d or t5i, your help?
« on: April 21, 2013, 08:20:33 AM »
Will the T5i be better at higher ISOs than the 60d?

(Very, very nearly) no, (very, very nearly) same sensor since the 7d - though the newer models like 60d have less banding than the dual-digic 7d and better live-view af was added on the 650d.

Hi, I'm looking to buy my wife a new camera, I was all set on buying her a T5i.  I see now the 60d body only is selling for $661, my Question to you guys is, would you buy the 60d or the t5i?

It depends on your willingness to learn photography and invest time for it. The 60d runs the stellar firmware addon Magic Langern which will take some while to get to the 700d, and the 60d better viewfinder, top lcd and back wheel is extremely helpful. If you've got the chance, go to a photo store, take both cameras in your hands & change some settings - then you'll see why I'd never want to shoot with a Rebel-type camera if I can help it.

Lenses / Re: 16-35 f/2.8II vs 17-40 f/4
« on: April 21, 2013, 06:26:28 AM »
and used on a crop body it's not suffering the same drop off in resolution or vignetting at the corners as it does on a FF body at the wide end, wide open!

... only that correcting vignetting in post is really easy and with no problems unless the vignette was -3ev, but you cannot raise sharpness in post (yet :-)). As for the much discussed corner sharpness, well, I haven't got a ff body (again: yet :-p) but looking at my current shots it doesn't really matter.

Marsu, excellent point.  However, I did shoot the Tokina outdoors and into the sun today.  I saw no flare.  If there ever is some, surely it is minimal.

I didn't research it that much, but the sample shots I saw were mostly night-time like these, and you don't get this type of flare (circles around point lights) with the 17-40L (and afaik 16-35L):

The Tokina 16-28 is a far better buy than the Canon 16-35.  I just used one for the first time, today.  It's sharper, and costs just over half.

The Achilles' heel of the Tokina is flare control (or the lack of) - try shooting into the sun or point light sources at dusk/night and you'll get very "artistic" results - and with an uwa lens you're bound to have lights in the picture often.

The Canon's are much better, the 17-40 is said to be even best (probably due to the smaller lens diameter), I have never managed to get any flare at all. So for strictly indoor shots w/o effect or protection filter, the Tokina is excellent value, but imho that's about it.

EOS Bodies / Re: 21mp Sensor in the 7D Mark II? [CR1]
« on: April 19, 2013, 04:13:54 AM »
18 MP. 21 MP. 24 MP. Even 15 MP.  Frankly, I don't especially care

You just don't understand what matters to Canon :-p ... the 5d3 with 22mp is *better* than the 20mp 6d because it has 2mp more, and that gives Canon the freedom to put the 21mp 7d2 where they want it to be in (automated) tech comparisons: Between the pro 5d3 and the amateur 6d. Maybe the 70d will have 19mp?

It´s time that Canon reduces the price of the 5D Mark III around 2000 bucks and put a FF camera between the 5D Mark III and 1D X on the market that is worth the money you pay for it. I need a better IQ in the range ISO 50 to ISO 800.

Amen to that, esp. since you know the Canon gear. But of course it won't happen now that the 6d is out, or Canon gets really bold and prices the full frame 60d where it should belong - at say €1300.

Lenses / Re: 16-35 f/2.8II vs 17-40 f/4
« on: April 19, 2013, 04:02:21 AM »
This is great feedback on both of these lenses.  This is why I'm saving up for the 16-35.

As usual, "more expensive is better" applies here, though as far as I read it not for f8-f11 landscape shots. If you use uwa a lot, the 16-35 might be the better choice, but often it'll be used in a combo with a 24-70 lens - and then it gets more difficult: 16-35+cheap 24-70 or 17-40+expensive 24-70? That's why I've got the 17-40, and at f8 I'm happy so far, it's a good iq (even on crop) and sturdy internal zoom lens.

Yesterday I did a quick comparison (video mode/indoors) between a Canon 60D and a Nikon D7100.

Converning lv focusing and zooming: This is where Canon blows away Nikon simply due to having Magic Lantern with all it's features, the main reason I got a 60d and not a Nikon d7000. If you don't know ml and go for video you should really have a look at ml ( - it has more lv zooming options & even sharpens/constrasts the zoomed image for better manual focus).

As for awb, yes, I think it works good on Canon and I seldom see any magenta/green tint, can't tell about Nikon.

Are you just using it at the widest setting?  I hate the idea that a lens is "meant" for a certain purpose, but some certainly lean a direction.
Well just for perspective. My worry is that if I got close then my subjects will be distorted. I wonder if I should have went for more reach.

It's great you're posting here because you tend to get the most expensive gear (which is absolutely legit, btw) and then wonder what to do with it, makes me feel better with having cheap gear but learning how to use it :-)

I got a wide angle lens *because* I want shots to be distorted and getting a "close up" effect, otherwise I just do a step back - I  was shooting with a zoom starting at 45mm for the last years and seldom missed wider angles. Yes, uwa might be essential for some indoors people group shots but for architectural shots you can also do panorama stitching.

Please do see this, uwa is not for "taking it all in":

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