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Messages - Marsu42

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EOS Bodies / Re: Ron Martinsen Blasts the 7DII in his review
« on: December 20, 2014, 08:12:01 AM »
That's a very poor review. I don't feel like typing out all the problems with it again.

+1, I was just about to start out but it really isn't worth it.

I'm agree with every Canon fanboy on this, for once: The 7d2 isn't there to produce top notch iq, but get the job done. If you want good iq with horrible af, then there's the 6d. The only complaints I see have nothing to with the 7d2 at all, which has a reasonable price - for Canon.
  • the "af and iq all in one" 5d3 is rather expensive, but then again Canon isn't a charity organization.
  • Canon has abandoned aps-h, but we (most likely) know the reasons for this move.
  • the "xxd for the masses" 70d didn't get the a bit improved 7d2 sensor

What I don't get is what reviewers consider to be the 7d2's use case and sports photography. Not everyone is reporting on the olympics, and those who are just get a 1dx+600L from their newspaper or buy one themselves.

For most web-screen or print reporting, image quality doesn't matter as far as the recent crop-ff difference go. You don't need a f2.8 lens to create subject separation for tele shots with a lot of space behind the subject. No local newspaper, blog or whatever is going to complain about some more noise reduction and sharpening if you get an af lock for just that precious moment of the action or the split-second of emotion. It isn't what I do, but there you are.

My own favorite shot among the last six shows got nary a positive comment. Go figure.

This makes it kind of difficult to choose what to publish and post-process, doesn't it? I've got tons of good shots lying around, but this outdoor wildlife stuff needs individual settings on each one, no can do copy/paste settings. If people with money like different things from what I like, maybe I should exchange my taste for a more mainstream one :-o ?

Is a photograph an accurate depiction of a scene, or is it art and to be manipulated to emphasize a feeling or a concept? Or is it both or is it neither?

My current "problem" is that shots that accurately depict the scene happen to look manipulated w/o me really aiming for it :-p ...

... but unless you're only shooting in controlled light or in the golden hours, you're bound to run into the hdr problem. It looks somewhat out of place on the screen even if I'm positive this is just the way it was and there's no outlandish tone-mapping involved (just fill flash). But the the thread title says, that's just me.

Like you, I'm not always impressed by HDR in general because I've seen so much of it (most of it overdone) that it is generally unappealing unless it's subtle and well done on an otherwise interesting image.

Feel free to participate in my "post your worst hdr shots" thread :-) ...

I think most people are smitten by it because its so attention-grabbing, especially if they've not been exposed to the style previously.

That's my guess, too. It's just that I'm currently getting into the professional "If the client's happy, I'm happy" spirit and away from the "Omg, if other people only see those shots, they have to think I'm a hdr freak". But of course that's why I put these into my stock in the first place, tastes vary, but a € is a €.

I hope some other photogs share their experiences with customers' tastes and if/when to go "Look at me". On the one hand, it's nice to build a subtle and charming style, but one the other hand, what's the use if nobody notices :-\

Lenses / Re: Canon 100-400 ii Image Quality Review Posted at TDP
« on: December 19, 2014, 09:57:30 AM »
I was comparing this new 100-400 with my 70-300 at TDP and found this curious thing:
Following Canon manuals, it's impossible to use a TC 1.4 on the 70-300. What am I missing here?
As far as I remember you can use Canon extender with 70-300 L at the tele end. Especially for testing :D, because zooming to the wide end you can cause last element crashing against extender.


You can still safely use Kenko instead of Canon extender throughout whole range of this zoom lens.

Correct, too - but there's a reason why Canon didn't bother with tc+70-300L: The bare image iq is fine, at least with current sensor resolutions on ff. However, cropping away the center esp. wide open shows - and you're at f8 when af'ing.

I only use my Kenko tc for the 100L which is really useful, but for the 70-300L it only makes sense if image sharpness if of no concern like zooming in on the setting sun. The difference to the new 100-400L2 might not be huge, but this is what counts when multiplying with a tc.

Business of Photography/Videography / (Why) do clients like high dr shots?
« on: December 19, 2014, 09:50:15 AM »
I just sold a couple of documentary shots, the client chose among a rather huge amount of my stock photos what the wild horsies I report on are up to round the year.

While tastes may vary and the client certainly didn't chose shots I like best (emotional content, uniqueness, whatever), I was surprised that nearly all choices were those of high-dr shots taken with Magic Lantern's dual iso, i.e. having 14+ stops of dynamic range.

Among the shots were these two below which were a pita to post-process, and I'm still not really happy. The scenes were noon and high dr, so I cannot really do anything about the "tonemapped" look, but it isn't - just plain Lightroom/ACR. It's only a choice how *how much* you raise shadows, not *if* ... sitting in indoors in winter it's hard to imagine summer can look that glaring and hard though.

Question:What's your experience - do clients like hdr-ish shots and why?


Thanks, but I always found that the official err code descriptions don't reveal anything at all and you really have to admire their rigorous commitment to elaborate error resolution procedures :-> ...

Err 05 Resolution: Turn the power switch off and then on again.
Err 06 Resolution: Turn the power switch off and then on again.
Err 10 Resolution: Turn the power off, then remove and re-install the battery. Then turn the power on again.
Err 20 Resolution: Turn the power off, then remove and re-install the battery. Then turn the power on again.
Err 30 Resolution: Turn the power off, then remove and re-install the battery. Then turn the power on again.
Err 40 Resolution: Turn the power off, then remove and re-install the battery. Then turn the power on again.
Err 50 Resolution: Turn the power off, then remove and re-install the battery. Then turn the power on again.
Err 60 Resolution: Check that the lens is clear from obstructions. Then turn the power switch off and then back on again.
Err 70 Resolution: Turn the power off, then remove and re-install the battery. Then turn the power on again.
Err 80 Resolution: Turn the power off, then remove and re-install the battery. Then turn the power on again.

In my book "Err70" is "Magic Lantern just crashed" and "Err80" is the catch-all "your camera shutter or lens aperture just died, go buy a new one".  I never experienced anything else for myself.

Videography Technique / Re: How can I tell if my microphone is working?
« on: December 19, 2014, 03:48:01 AM »
Any thoughts?

Yes, in case of your friend I'd re-think the decision to have you video the wedding :->

Unless the video is completely optional and there's nothing lost when it doesn't work out (even after the guests seeing you filming, and asking "where's the footage?"), wedding work is not a testbed for trial&error.

As for the mic: pop against it, that'll make a nice sound bump so you see what the source it. But really, at this stage I'd recommend against trying it in a live scenario.

Lenses / Re: So, Yongnuo replica lenses....
« on: December 19, 2014, 03:44:06 AM »
Anybody tempted?

Definitely not - the 50/1.8 build quality (two pieces of glass helpd together by a cheap plastic barrel) will be still horrible, as will the noisy an imprecise af motor. I had bad experiences esp. when the zoom mechanism pushes the interior outside - bump against anything, and that's that.

That isn't salvaged by the bokeh going from "horrible" to "below average", in the best case to be expected, that is. This one is build and designed for the local Asian market.

Of course, the f1.4 is possibly of more interrest once they get round to shipping it...

Indeed, a 50/1.4 clone at a very cheap price would be tempting to have around just for the low light capability when in a pinch (like night time photography). For everything else, there are better options around nowadays unless you're on an ultra-low budget and don't worry about af precision.

However, as this has to be imported from China I'd have to pay 20% vat plus 20% customs (Germany/EU), so unless you try to circumvent customs altogether it isn't such a great offer anymore vs. a used Canon 50/1.4 bought locally. And it's not like there would be any good warranty service to be expected from Yn.

So what are they talking about, rechargeable lithium batteries (is there such a thing?) or just regular ones?

Actually a good question, there seems to be a lot of different li types. In the absence of information, Canon has to talk about all of them, rechargable or not. As far as I just read, the problem seems to be rapid discharge, and that would be what happens in a flash, but not in a camera or mobile phone.

I'm using "Varta Lithium Professionals" and have quite a stockpile, so it would suck if i shouldn't use them anymore.

These things indeed seem to be not without risk, even air travel with them is restricted. Canon has quite a linup of li batteries themselves and warns against this as early as 2008:

Lenses / Re: What would you choose to compliment a 50mm prime?
« on: December 19, 2014, 02:50:31 AM »
My understanding is that the 70-300mm L doesn't have as good IQ as the 70-200mm L IS wide open. I'm not too concerned about f4 versus f4.5 or 200mm versus 300mm, I would just want the best IQ of the two.

I didn't use both, but looking at the tdp chart's I'd say it depends on the focal length and the individual copy of your lens - there's always a lot of variation. If your are set upon pixel peeping (I'm not saying there's something wrong with it) the internal zoom might be calibrated better, ymmv.

However, the 70-300L is one of the most underestimated lenses for this very reason. When it was released, the opinions were "Well, you'll get similar test chart iq from a much cheaper lens", but over the last years this has turned around and it's considered to be a very good lens with an excellent sharpness/bokeh/price/weight/bulk tradeoff. That's why I'd recommend at least testing both in a shop in your own hands and getting the feel, then comparing some non-test chart shots.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: I'm getting impatient for the new 5D 4.
« on: December 19, 2014, 02:43:47 AM »
If the subject moves relatively fast you need 1/250 shutter. If it movies fast you need 1/1000 and if it moves relatively really fast 1/4000. If you notice f stop is not mentioned here. Get the picture?

No, I don't - that's because I shoot motion a lot. At first glance and to the layman, it might seem like the speed of motion is tied to the shutter speed, like fast, faster, fastest, totally fast.

But if you gain more experience, you'll realize even with only "fast" the pixel sharpness depends a lot on the shutter speed, so the tradeoff you need to make is iso value vs. pixel peeping. And of course it's about the speed of the object as projected on the sensor, so shooting a race car on the horizon doesn't need as fast shutter speed as shooting a turtle on macro distance.

That's why giving any absolute number (either f-stop or shutter speed) for a certain type of motion is a fallacy, it's about tradeoffs and the choice of max view/print size. Proper use of your gear depends on you understanding these connections. However, where would f2.8 lenses and 1/8000 camera sales be if everybody did :-o ?

Lenses / Re: Impressions from the EF 16-35mm f4 L IS USM
« on: December 19, 2014, 02:36:34 AM »
So in my book, using a tripod for the kinds of shots on your blog is still to preferred unless you're only targeting web size. And esp. in this case, an old and shaggy 17-40L (when used properly) will be indistinguishable from the newest and shiniest lens marvel in Canon's lineup.
lol.. maybe you have to open your eyes, get glasses and look at the corners.
or maybe you just have no clue....

If your 17-40L wasn't tack sharp, probably it wasn't properly afma'd or you had a broken lens. Or you're probably not able to handle it - in this case, IS certainly is a big help to get less blur.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: I'm getting impatient for the new 5D 4.
« on: December 18, 2014, 01:53:57 PM »
What makes you think you are ready for this system? It's obvious you have no idea what your needs are.

... on the other hand, if he's got the budget why not go for it? It's not like he couldn't sell the stuff on if he finds it too difficult to handle or to heavy to carry around. Even expensive usable cameras have a "P" for "professional" mode. Getting a nice sports car just for fun is worth 15+ 1dx systems.

Imho people enjoying themselves and getting top of the line gear is just fine, if Canon makes a healthy profit there's less reason for them to be would up tight when trickling down features to more affordable cameras.

Concerning "need": Nobody "needs" a 1dx, when used properly a good photog can cover all situations with a Rebel. It's just a matter of convenience and keeper rate in some "machinegun the wildlife" situations.

This information is for residents of the United States and Puerto Rico only. If you do not reside in the USA or Puerto Rico, please contact the Canon Customer Support Center in your region.

Muahaha, so the batteries stop exploding when used by a non-US resident, even if staying inside the US?

Or is it because the weird US law system has so exepensive lawsuits that even a very minor danger needs a warning? But in this case, what's Puerto Rico doing in there?

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