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Messages - The_Arsonist

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HDR - High Dynamic Range / Re: Best HDR Software?
« on: January 12, 2013, 01:23:05 AM »
I've tried Photoshop CS5's built in HDR merge with poor results. I've tried Photomatix in the past but didn't like the tone mapping on it very well.

I've mostly used Nik's HDR Efex 2. It's quick, has useful presets, makes sense when you want to tweak, and integrates very well with my Lightroom only workflow. I can get natural looking photos with high dynamic range, or you can crank the detail and get very surrealistic results, which seems to be the more common use of HDR

EOS Bodies / Re: 6d vs. 5d mkiii for sports photography
« on: January 08, 2013, 07:11:24 PM »
That is a dark gym! I'm of no use in the auto-focus questions, good luck

EOS Bodies / Re: 6d vs. 5d mkiii for sports photography
« on: January 07, 2013, 07:09:19 PM »
Has anyone tried the new 6d on indoor basketball, or something that is going to push the AF system?  I've got a 50d and simply can't get the shutter speeds needed to freeze the action at the local indoor gyms.  I'm looking at the either the 5d mkiii or the 6d.  Not sure about the focus tracking of the 6d, but all tests look like it does better in low light situations.  I've googled around on the internet and can't find too much on the 6d based on indoor sports shooting.  If anyone on here uses the 6d for indoor sports, I'd be very interested to hear what you had to say or could point me to some places that focus reviews based on that.  Thanks!

What are you shooting with/at? I get fairly good results in indoor basketball from my 50D+Sigma 70-200 2.8 at 1/400, f/2.8, iso2500. I usually do AI Servo with all points activated, IS off

I would still be shooting Fuji if they had had a cheaper DSLR model when I got my used 20D. I still am kicking around the idea of selling my standard focal length lenses and getting an EX1 with a 35mm

Contests / Re: Gura Gear Giveaway!
« on: December 08, 2012, 04:41:02 PM »
I suppose I would like to win this contest

Bouncing flash to light a gym probably isn't going to work out well with a speed light. Maybe a studio strobe/monoblock would work, but I'd suggest taking a look at this article on Strobist on using speed lights as direct light.

That said, I get decent results with available light from my 50D and a 70-200. I shoot at f/2.8, ISO 2500, and shutter at 1/400s. I would recommend shooting 5-10 minutes with available light in case your flash experiments don't turn out the way you want. And I shoot RAW, as post-processing is really what makes the photos turn out (noise reduction, tweaking sharpness and exposure)

Canon EF Prime Lenses / Re: Canon 85mm f/1.8
« on: November 18, 2012, 07:27:14 PM »
I love this lens.  It's small, fast, focuses much faster than the 1.2 and it is a great value.  What's not to love?

I prefer the 100mm F/2.

I am thinking about both.... why the 100/2 over the 85/1.8 ?

Does anyone have comparison shots?

CA was the big reason I chose the 100 f/2 over the 85 f/1.8. I never owned the 85, but borrowed it quite often. I also found the focus on the 100 to be better, but I suspect that was because I used the 85 before I had a body with AFMA. I doubt any of my shots would help you. Only reason I sold the 100 is because I acquired a 70-200 2.8, and the 100 now lives a block away with a friend, so it's still available to me.   ;D

Software & Accessories / Re: Lightroom Image Management
« on: November 10, 2012, 02:09:01 PM »
I keep the RAW files on my laptop in Lightroom until I have not used them in a while, then I move the RAW files to an external drive (RAID 1, redundant drives, which is also backed up online). I move the files in Lightroom so I can still access them when I have the external drive attached. I don't usually keep an archive of the JPEGs I make because I can re-export them from the original RAW files if I need them. As long as I have a version of Lightroom, my images are archived for the long haul

I have a very silly question. I am a still photographer, I don't do video, how do all these great features benefit still shots?

Live view configuration options (focus peaking, zoom options, shortcuts for ISO/WB, crop marks, extra sharpness), UI customizing, histograms on quick review, shutter count, quick zoom, intelligent intervalometer, etc. There's probably something you'd find useful

Software & Accessories / Re: Variable ND question
« on: August 22, 2012, 12:12:14 PM »
Thank you for your replies.

I'm torn as to what I want to do. I use only L glass (70-200, 24-105, 24), so I know I want quality glass to be putting in front of that quality glass  :P

Now, I'm honestly torn between getting the SinghRay (like I mentioned, I have good experience with it, and my friends over at and also use it on their videos, which turn out fantastic) or getting a 2-stop in addition to a 5 stop.

I can't honestly remember using the variable to either of it's extreme settings, so I don't think I need anything more than a 5 stop on my 24 f1./4 and a 2 stop would be fine on the 70-200 f2.8.

Decision needs to made soon, I have a huge photographic weekend coming up (one month) where I'll put close to 2000 images on my cards...
Try "renting" one and trying it out. I often buy lenses or other big items used, then sell them on Amazon if they're not what I wanted. I had a Canon video camera for two years, and after I sold it I about broke even, even after selling fees/shipping. Look at the used prices on Amazon and see if you can pick one up for a similar price. Selling on Amazon is really easy

Thank you!  Now for another luddite question....if I have ML on my card then take photos on this card, do I use MOVE instead of COPY when uploading to Lightroom?  My usual workflow is to copy, not move, leaving the images on the card until I am certain they properly uploaded and are backed up in two places.  Then I will do a low-level format on the card before shooting again.  But I'm gathering with ML on the card, I don't want to do a low-level format, correct?  What if I do a normal, not low-level, format...will that remove the images but leave the ML files intact?

When you do a format on the card with ML installed, it is set to keep ML installed by default. It allows you to do a complete format and remove ML if you hit the func. key before formatting. I normally just delete all images, rather than format.

Focus peaking for video mode is enough to make me love Magic Lantern. Not to mention it actually gives my 50D a video mode in the first place

Software & Accessories / Re: Variable ND question
« on: August 20, 2012, 02:29:18 PM »
I would have to recommend Neewer for their ND faders, AKA variable ND filters.  I got a 52mm thread one for my Canon 50mm 1.8 II and love it so much, it only cost $5 with another $5 for shipping, I would say I have gotten a lot more use out of it then $10.  Just one photo using it earned me enough money to buy over 10 of them.  It does not reduce sharpness all that much, it is almost unnoticeable, you are more likely to lose sharpness from your subject or your tripod moving slightly.  My only complaint about it is that it changes from a 52mm thread to a 54mm thread so I can't put on my hood for my 50mm but most lenses have another mount for their hoods so this isn't even that much of a problem.  Here is a link to the 77mm Neewer ND fader on Amazon for $11.32, .  Neewer does a great job of making ND faders and I would recommend them to anyone because of their cost and performance.  You might have to do a little bit of color correction in post but that is something you should do no matter if you have the filter on or off and at high densities it suffers from weird pattern problems, but not worse then $400 ND faders, if anything better then them. 
Here is just one of the amazing shots I've gotten from this great filter


Also, love the name, I've got a '11 GTI, LOVE the sound of a VR6, what is it in?

I have the 77mm Neweer variable ND filter. It reduces my sharpness way more than I am comfortable with, especially for video work. I can't say I would recommend it over a normal ND filter

Lenses / Re: Lens Filters etc.
« on: August 10, 2012, 10:11:10 PM »
How much was it to put the Katzeye focusing screen in your 50d? Id like a little info and your personal opinion if you dont mind:-)
About $115 shipped. Not hard to put in, and I really like it. Being able to see the actual DOF of faster lenses is the biggest advantage. If I had to do it again, I'd probably skip the split prism and just have the microprisms. I don't find the split prism very useful

Lenses / Re: Lens Filters etc.
« on: August 09, 2012, 11:04:39 PM »
I have a $30 77mm UV filter that I still can't get the mustard and water spots off of. Those water spots and mustard would be stuck on my $700 17-55 if I had not had the filter on. That said, I have been shooting without the filter on, unless I anticipate a mess headed my way in a shot

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