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Messages - gtog

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16
I believe  Drizzt321 is correct for film and full frame digital (note the 5Ds in his sig) where the FF "crop factor" is 1.0

A better formula for the slowest hand-held shutter speed should be 1/(focal length * crop factor). There is, of course, some individual variation (practiced good technique vs caffeine, etc) so YMMV. In any case, it is a starting point, not a guaranteed good/bad separator. It will boil down to what you find results in an acceptable keeper rate.

G

17
Lenses / Re: First dSLR, lens recommendations
« on: April 12, 2012, 06:41:01 PM »
A 60D with the EF-S 15-85mm is a good start for outside daylight shooting.

The "classic" Canon telephoto zoom for wildlife is the EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM. It is a push-pull zoom design, does accept the Canon teleconverters, but has an older less capable IS.

The newer Canon telephoto zoom I would suggest is the EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM. It is a more compact lens, equal or better IQ than the 100-400, and has the newer 4-stop IS. It does not accept the Canon teleconverters (but will work with the Kenko). See the Canon Rumors Guy's review for more info and pictures.

The Canon 70-200 zooms are great lenses but are likely to leave you wanting more "reach" for wildlife, though they would provide a constant aperture and do accept the Canon teleconverters (which you will probably find yourself wanting to use -- may as well get the range built-in). They would work better for portraits but you might consider an EF 85mm f/1.8 prime for portraits paired with a "wildlife" zoom.

For longer focal lengths, you are into super-telephoto primes territory and probably outside your budget at this point, though maybe not for a future acquisition.

Enjoy your trip!

Oh, the answer for how long a lens you need for shooting wildlife is 100mm longer than you have available (I believe it is a corollary to Murphy's Law).   ;D

G

18
Site Information / Re: Don´t check it
« on: April 09, 2012, 11:52:10 PM »
This forum runs on Canon time.  Its synchronized to the Canon 1D X Atomic clock. 


Mt Spokane, are you teasing us with another rumor on a rumor site? Are you suggesting that Canon has incorporated a CSAC into the 1DX? (For example info on a CSAC see http://tf.nist.gov/timefreq/ofm/smallclock/CSAC.html) So is Craig using an ethernet or USB cable to interface a 1DX to the forum server?

G ;)

(PS CSAC stands for Chip Scale Atomic Clock)

19
Site Information / Re: Don´t check it
« on: April 09, 2012, 07:33:14 PM »
Maybe when Craig upgrades the forum to "vBulletin 4.x forum" he can reset the forum time to UTC? It would make it easier on guests, and those who haven't modified their profile, for an international forum to use an international time standard. And include UTC, or whatever timezone, in the display!

G

20
Site Information / Re: Don´t check it
« on: April 09, 2012, 05:18:32 PM »
Actually Neuro, I'm with Colin on this. Your EDT is UTC-4. Your -12 would put the forum's default timezone somewhere like Bangkok. Colin would be UTC+2 as he would be on summer time now (CEST). My MDT (UTC-6) is being "auto-detected" as -14.

Confusing.

UTC (GMT) would make much more sense as the default time for the forum.

G

Oops, correction: The forum default of UTC+8 would place it somewhere like Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, or Western Australia. Canon headquarters in Japan would be UTC+9.

21
EOS Bodies / Re: Go small or go home (T4i)
« on: April 08, 2012, 02:33:52 PM »
I would think it unlikely that there would not be a T4i(?)/650D before the holiday shopping season this year. I would also think with all Canon's focus on higher-end cameras (5D3, 1DX, and cinema) so far this year, they won't neglect the lower-end all year but could easily bump an xxxD to September. While most of the xxxD have been February/March/April cameras, the Rebel/300D and XTi/400D were September cameras.

I also don't know what Canon might accomplish regarding improvements to the APS-C sensors this cycle (having been focused on FF and cinema sensors), but they have not been afraid in the past  to have an xxxD sensor exceed their xxD sensor. I refer to the XTi/400D in September 2006 having 10.1 Mp while the 30D had 8.2 Mp and then again in March 2008 the XSi/450D having 12.2 Mp while the 40D had 10.1 Mp.

It would seen possible a new xxxD might have a Digic V and more in-camera processing features without a major change in sensor, in which case I would expect a significant sensor upgrade in either a 70D or 7D2 late this year or early next after the new xxxD. Once a 70D/7D2 is announced with an improved sensor, then I would expect any subsequent xxxD to have an improved sensor also. The further we get into the year for an APS-C camera announcement, the more likely it will involve an improved sensor.

However, April is not over yet and we may still get a camera announcement -- and don't forget the glass!

G

22
Lenses / Re: Advice to buy filters and lens hood for canon 500D
« on: March 27, 2012, 12:24:15 PM »
Regarding your UV vs Protector question: The digital SLR camera bodies we are talking about here have an anti-aliasing filter right in front of the sensor, which also has UV filtering characteristics. This means that from the sensor's vantage point, it can't tell the difference whether you have a UV or a Protector filter on the front of the lens. Feel free to chose the less expensive of the two (staying in the same Hoya Pro-1 Digital line they would be of the same quality).

Regarding your circular polarizing filter and rotating front element question: If the part of the lens where the filter threads are rotates during focusing and/or zooming, it becomes harder to use a polarizing filter as you would need to re-adjust the filter after every minor focus/zoom adjustment (and risk disturbing your focus/zoom setting). Generally, more expensive lenses will have a non-rotating front that alleviates this hassle with polarizing filters.

23
Lenses / Re: Advice to buy filters and lens hood for canon 500D
« on: March 26, 2012, 02:44:41 PM »
There are several factors to keep in mind when selecting filters for your lenses. For starters:

1) Multi-coating is GOOD thing! Avoid bare glass! The Hoya Pro-1 Digital UV will have better coatings than the HMC (Hoya multi-coated has 3 layers on each surface, iirc, while the Pro-1 has more).

2) Ring thickness -- most standard filter rings are 5 -7 mm thick and have threads on the front (handy to continue to use your clip-on lens caps since you shouldn't really be stacking filters on your lens). When using lenses wider than 24 mm FF (15 mm on APS-C) you should use a "slim" ringed filter, usually about 3 mm thick, so as not to vignette. The Hoya HMC has a standard thickness ring while the Hoya Pro-1 Digital is slim but still retains the front threading (many/most "slim" ring filters do not have front threading and you would need to use a slip-on type lens cap with them).

There are additional quality issues that usually do not show up in camera store specification lists such as: glass thickness; glass flatness; sturdiness of the ring holding the glass; ring threading; efficiency of the filtering unwanted light; efficiency of transmitting wanted light; etc. To a certain extent these will correlate with price.

I do use the better Hoya filters myself.

A few years ago LensTip.com published some tests of UV and polarizing filters that go into more detail:
http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test.html
http://www.lenstip.com/120.1-article-UV_filters_test_-_supplement.html
http://www.lenstip.com/115.1-article-Polarizing_filters_test.html
http://www.lenstip.com/119.1-article-Polarizing_filters_test_-_supplement.html

Good Luck,
G

24
Lenses / Re: 85mm or 135mm?
« on: March 23, 2012, 01:38:16 PM »
... Reviewing my pictures I notice that most of my portrait shot are taken around 100mm ...

Perhaps you should also consider the Canon EF 100mm f/2 USM?

25
Lenses / Re: wide angle lens with IS
« on: March 20, 2012, 04:19:52 PM »
Why hasn't Canon made a wide angle lens with IS?

Regarding IS and wide angle lenses, let's take a step back and remember what the problem is that IS is a solution to. Unwanted camera/lens shake/movement during exposure causes the light from a given point to be displaced across the sensor (or film) resulting in streaks or blur in the recorded image. The apparent displacement for a given amount of shake/movement is greater with longer focal lengths. Consider an object that is 1 degree of the FOV. That object will not only occupy a much larger portion of the sensor with a lens that will record a 10 degree FOV, but any unwanted motion will also be larger and more objectionable than with a wide angle lens with a 100 degree FOV and the same object.

The "classic" solutions to this problem are normally: a) to steady the camera/lens with a tripod, monopod, bean bag, gyroscopic device, etc.; b) use a faster shutter speed so that the extent of the motion recorded during exposure will be less objectionable.

In 1976 Canon patented Image Stabilization and introduced the first interchangeable SLR lens to use it in September 1995, the EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM, followed in March 1997 with the EF 300mm f/4L IS USM and EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM in February 1998. The latter being the first EF lens with IS in the wide angle range. The first IS version only provided about 2 stops of improvement and had issues when on a tripod or panning with a subject. Later IS versions have improved substantially.

Canon's IS works by shifting a lens group to compensate for camera/lens shake/movement and reduce any image displacement at the sensor that would have resulted. This benefits focusing and composition as well as the recorded image.

The current Canon lenses with wide angle coverage and IS are:
EF zooms: EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM (2/1998), EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6L IS USM (6/2004), and EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM (10/2005)
EF-S zooms: All the current "standard" zooms have IS with wide coverage starting in the 15-18mm (24-29 FFE) range.
The only EF-S prime is the 60mm f/2.8 USM macro which lacks IS.
The shortest EF prime with IS is the 100mm f/2.8L IS USM with Hybrid IS (10/2009) which compensates for both angular and shift shake.
Currently the shortest EF prime with "regular" IS is the EF 200mm f/2L IS USM (4/2008).

Canon has announced EF 24 and 28mm f/2.8 IS USM lenses expected to be available in June. They seem to be anomalous with respect to the rest of Canon's line, and not just for price-point and cost/benefit reasons. With the reduced impact of camera/lens shake with wide angle lenses, the IS benefits would not seem very compelling for shooting stills. As others have mentioned, their IS would be more compelling for video shooters because not only would each frame be improved (intra-frame shake), but there would be less apparent shake between frames (inter-frame shake) which would provide a smoother video. A contrarian would, of course, observe that none of Canon's EF mount cine lenses (2 zoom and 24, 50 and 85mm primes) have IS. Of course at the cine lens price points, Canon may figure users would have other apparatus to stabilize the camera/lens? Maybe the announced 24 and 28mm with IS are targeted at amateur and small under-capitalized production company videographers? It will be interesting to see how well the IS in these new lenses handles panning with moving video subjects (eg kids), which are not always uni-directional.

In short, Canon has had "Wide IS" for the past 14 years, but not extensively and only in zooms (which also had coverage into the telephoto range), probably due to minimal benefit to still photographers. However, with the popular advent of DSLR video, we can expect to see more "Wide IS", including primes.

Thanks for your kindness in reading such a long post.
G

26
Lenses / Re: Zeiss lens wipes
« on: March 20, 2012, 01:31:22 AM »
Roger Cicala of LensRentals.com in his blog on cleaning lenses (http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2011/05/the-lensrentals-lens-cleaning-methods) lists the Zeiss Lens Cloths for use if after blowing, brushing, blowing, and a lens pen have not succeeded in getting a lens clean. Like others have said, I would double check the packaging to make sure they are safe for multi-coated lenses. They may have an expiration date to check as well.

Good Luck

27
I will +1 Mt Spokane and Neuro with respect to getting the 24-105 f/4L kitted with the 5D Mk III (great value/price and very useful).

You mention portraits and concerts and I think one of the 85 f/1.8, 100 f/2, or 135 f/2L primes would be great as an additional lens. Which one(s) will depend on how tightly you prefer to crop your portraits and working distances (both portraits and concerts). In my FD days, I loved my 85 for adults, but the 100 worked better for pictures of my kids when small. The EF 100 has also worked well on my Elan 7 for school plays. The 135 would give you even tighter crops and/or more reach -- many prefer it for portraits.

You know your shooting style and needs best -- let your usage drive your selection and enjoy!

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