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Messages - agierke

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196
Lighting / Re: My first Studio!! Einsteins or Bowens??
« on: January 22, 2013, 04:47:17 PM »
im another Einstein guy. i use their radio transmitters as well.

as far as modifiers go, i have been less than impressed with PCB modifiers. i do own the PCB Beauty Dish and it is great. the PCB grids are a good deal as well as all other brands are way overpriced. the parabolic umbrellas are ok. the softboxes i would not recommend at all...terrible design.

for softboxes i like Westcott. they are made of good materials, are designed well, and are affordable compared to other brands. get the ones that have the inner diffusion panel as well as the removable front diffusion panel. they are very versatile. silver or white per your preference.

i have used Photoflex boxes but i wasn't a fan of the material they used...too plasticey. used Chimera alot as well but they are too pricey if you are on a budget. Plume was always my favorite but they are very expensive.

for umbrellas i have a couple from Photoflex (get the optical white as the plain white are again plasticey) but my favorites are the Photek Softlighters. good reflective material for use as an umbrella and they come with a front diffusion panel that turns it into a round soft source. the smaller sizes also come with inserts that will warm the light or create more specularity. they are a really great deal for cost vs function.

Photek also makes a great octobox called the Illuminata. its a really soft source and though i don't own one a few of my photographer buddies do and it is their favorite modifier for portraits.

avoid the Impact brand at all cost. despite their name sounding like they could take a beating...they can't. cheaply made and fall apart.

197
Lighting / Re: Selling off my old strobes, What to get next?
« on: January 22, 2013, 11:07:24 AM »
the einstein's are engineered to maintain color consistency in their normal mode throughout the power range. switching to the high speed mode and PCB says you will lose color consistency as you vary power.

gotta say TY to this thread! brought a new bit of information to me and now i have a project to look into to see if i can add capability to my bag of tricks. hope this works with the einsteins or i may feel the urge to add a couple more heads to the kit!

198
Lenses / Re: 24mm 35mm 70mm FoV
« on: January 22, 2013, 10:59:26 AM »
i have both the 35L and the 24-70 2.8L and i use both often. it really depends on the type of shoot i am doing which dictates which lens gets used.

if i am working in tight spaces or have to react fast i use the 24-70. if i am trying to get the look that only shooting wide open gives you i use the 35. sometimes i will have both mounted to two separate cameras. they are not superfluous to each other.

if you are a hobby shooter then i would say you probably don't need it. if you have professional needs, then i would say yes definitely get it.

199
Lighting / Re: Selling off my old strobes, What to get next?
« on: January 21, 2013, 06:50:53 PM »
well, the einsteins appear to have a flash duration anywhere from 1/588th to 1/13500th of a sec so i guess it would depend on the mode and the power settings as well as getting a radio transmitter that could control the timing of the flash pop.

hmm....im interested.

*edit*

sry for the spam posting but i am very intrigued by this notion.

found this link as well directly pertaining to canon cameras and speedlights. still unsure of how to incorporate different brand monoheads though.

http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/content_page.asp?cid=7-9991-10030

200
Lighting / Re: Selling off my old strobes, What to get next?
« on: January 21, 2013, 06:43:57 PM »
did some quick internet digging and found this:

Quote
This is your answer. With focal plane shutters and dedicated speedlights using HSS/FP sync up to 1/8000 sync isnt an issue. But if you are talking about studio lights (monolights and packs) things get really tricky. With leaf shutter cameras you can shoot past 1/1000 sec sync with studio strobes. What you need is a slow or delayed sync similiar to what was used with old school 1970s m-series camera syncs and class m-series flash bulbs for a slow sync delay (because it took about 20-25 milliseconds to reach illumination with these old flash bulbs). Today we use Pocketwizards with Hypersync for an advanced time sync.

You need these things to sync above 1/250 sec with focal plane shutter cameras and studio strobes:

Pocketwizards (camera must have a Pocketwizard MiniTT1 or FlexTT5) using Hypersync with the peak or tail method
The correct camera AND studio strobe combo.
A studio strobe light with a SLOW flash duration

According to Pocketwizard, sensor size and flash duration are the two biggest factors in how well Hypersync will work. You can get a very clean sync without clipping well past the 1/250 sync mark. How much more? Depends on your strobe and camera combo. You can get anywhere from 1/320 -1/8000. It is not easy to get the 1/8000 sync and factors depend with certain camera, strobe combo and ambient light. Good studio strobes to use with Pocketwizard Hypersync are: Profoto, Dynalite and Elinchrom with slower "S" head flash duration. I shoot with the Bowens Explorer 1500 strobe pack which has extremely high flash durations but doesnt have any slow flash durations for Hypersync to work well:1500w/s = 1/4,170s, 1000w/s = 1/5,700s 32w/s = 1/3,380s. The slowest flash duration I have on my pack is 1/3,380s.

A lot of posts on the topic so you can read more here:
http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-9884-9903-9906
http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00Y5Q8?start=10
http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00YrJV


comes from this site....scroll down:

http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00ZySf

also found this mod for Nikon users:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/d70/discuss/72057594105643058/


interesting stuff. i will have to look into it further (when i have the time) because i have long wished for the capabilities of a leaf shutter in terms of flash sync for my digital shots.

201
Lighting / Re: Selling off my old strobes, What to get next?
« on: January 21, 2013, 06:31:32 PM »
the Einsteins are not capable of exceeding the sync of whatever canon camera you have. tested it and they failed. but that was using AB triggers.

i have never heard of a radio trigger being able exceed flash sync of a camera. i have only used canon speedlights to do that. and i highly doubt that you could shoot at 1/8000th of a sec with strobe and not be using a leaf shutter. even at 1/500th on a Hassi that was pushing it. everything i have ever experienced says that is not possible with a curtain type shutter.

i also don't believe 400w/s heads are enough power to beat direct sunlight. the einsteins are 640w/s and they struggle to beat direct sunlight with direct unmodified strobe.

i'm not buying it....but please, i would be thrilled to be proven wrong.

202
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: ISO 50
« on: January 21, 2013, 10:51:34 AM »
i would like to now see Neoro and Mikael do a rendition of "Who's on First".

203
Sports / Re: Q: Would car show shots be appropriate in here?
« on: January 21, 2013, 10:27:07 AM »
sure why not. i think the only thing you can't post is porn. i dont think nudity is allowed either but tastefully done implied nudes is probably ok. i would check the forum rules for clarification...i think its outlined somewhere in there.

i also wouldn't post other photographer's work without proper credit being given. that's just a respect thing.

but bring on the cars man!

204
Landscape / Re: Need critique for future improvement
« on: January 21, 2013, 10:17:09 AM »
Hey SJ,

 nice work. the only thing i could add is to be a little more careful when doing your post production. you have some "halos" happening around some of your details that can be distracting as it "reveals" your retouching...so to speak. i liken it to watching a movie where you wouldn't want to see a boom sneaking into the frame...it breaks the illusion of that world for the viewer.

 also, you could pay some more attention to midtone contrast on some of the photos to reveal more of the detail. here is a quick redo that i did to demo what i am talking about



i used Nik tonal contrast to bring out more detail in the surf and sky but you could also do some selective dodging and burning in PS. to handle the halo of the rock i zoomed in and dodged the midtones of the edge of the rock and then cloned in the sky where it got too bright. always zoom in when you are in PS so that you fill your screen with the area you are working on and always use appropriatley sized brushes for the size of work you are doing.

for me, this allows me to stay focused in the world you are showing me and not have my attention be broken by thoughts like "oh, there's a weird halo on that rock".

205
Lenses / Re: Grey (Gray) Market Advice
« on: January 20, 2013, 10:34:37 PM »
never buy gray market. its not worth the hassles if something goes wrong.

B&H have that lens for 1799.00 right now if you add it to your cart.

gray market is a bad idea.

206
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Kenrockwell comments on Canon 6d
« on: January 19, 2013, 10:32:09 PM »
well, this thread was doomed from the start. i've been watching it simply out of curiosity at the ferver it would reach. some of the tones taken were pretty disappointing and not indicative of what i have experienced on this site. to that point....

regardless of any CR members interests or experience level, i have come to enjoy the mostly good natured exchange of ideas, opinions, and experiences with different types of gear. i certainly expect this thread to be a blip on the radar of what i think is a pretty diverse and respectful online community.

what i have noticed is that there seems to sometimes be different perspectives between pros earning a living through photography and enthusiasts just enjoying photography. there is certainly no right or wrong but it seems that sometimes when those perspectives cross, context is lost in the shuffle.

i personally fall into the camp of thinking Ken Rockwell is a clown and i personally am underwhelmed by his work. i do not think anyone who enjoys Ken or learns something from his site is "stupid" or somehow below me in anyway. that would just be nonsense. i would caution those that follow Rockwell that there is a great deal of learning, experience, and enjoyment beyond his musings and to actively seek out other sources so that his thoughts don't become gospel. but this is true of anyone....any single source of information or inspiration can be troublesome in the long run.

i think what everyone can agree upon is that photography is simply alot of fun and very rewarding at all levels of experience. no one should ever feel hesitant to post images that they have done on this site for any reason. i think the majority of the members here truly enjoy seeing shots from everyone regardless of their skill level. i know i do...i only wish i could see more of all of your work.

that being said, i will soon be adding my website to my profile (as it is in the process of being updated...sorely overdue) and welcome all to visit it and critique away! i always felt the worst thing that someone could say about my work was nothing....i would much rather prefer that someone hated it or loved it. at least that way i could get some growth from the experience. indifference gives no satisfaction!

207
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Kenrockwell comments on Canon 6d
« on: January 19, 2013, 07:54:43 PM »
Quote
let whoever is without sin cast the first stone

< casts stone....and hits self.

lol, sry i couldn't resist. but isn't that usually the case?

208
Lenses / Re: IS blurry pictures
« on: January 18, 2013, 01:04:10 PM »
i agree with others that IS is totally overrated and i tend to avoid using it at all costs.

its one of those things that if the situation absolutely calls for IS then fine but i think those situations are rare. its not a cure all intended for all situations all the time. the best solution is to increase your shutterspeed and compensate exposure through other variables.

also, practice steadier handholding techniques and breathing...these things can help more than you could imagine. i taught a class where one of my students was former military and i was asked how do i hold my camera. when i demonstrated wrapping the strap around my arms for steadiness and keeping both my eyes open when looking through the viewfinder, my Ex-military student commented how thats exactly how the army teaches steadiness when shooting a rifle. he also added that they teach controlled breathing in that the body is most at rest at the end of an exhale. the body tends to get jittery when you hold your breath and he advised against doing that. interesting stuff....any Rifle experts in here that can corroborate that? 

209
Lighting / Re: Selling off my old strobes, What to get next?
« on: January 18, 2013, 12:42:24 PM »
i have 2 Einsteins and i find them to be very reliable and built much more solidly than the older AB units. i have not yet tested the high speed flash duration of the units but it was a feature that i liked having if the need ever arises.

some other nice things about the Einsteins:

1/10 stop variation in power over a 9 stop range
ability to control power of multiple strobes via camera with the Cyber Commander unit
value vs quality (its just a good product for the cost compared to other brands)

i have also not had any issues using any type of modifier with them. i got the units when they were first released and i was aware that they were going to correct how modifiers were attached to the unit. as i understood it, occasionally a large/heavy modifier could "jump" off the unit so PCB planned to extend the length of the clasps that engaged the speedring that the modifier was attached to.

i have never had an issue with this and i have used up to a 36x48 softbox on these units. i do hope to get a 54x72 softbox in the future so at that point i might send the units back in to get them updated to handle the extra load.

bottom line is that i find the Einsteins to be well made, reliable, and very very versatile. but i would try to research how they perform at faster flash durations and if they are capable of what you need. the only other units i saw (online) photographers using to do such work were ProFotos...and they are beastly expensive. 

edit:

just found this review/test by Rob Galbraith (whom i find to be very thorough and informative) for the Einstein 640's. scroll down tne article a bit and you will see interactive tests for the high speed flash duration compared to the elinchroms.

http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-10053-10715

210
EOS Bodies / Re: Older Canon cameras
« on: January 17, 2013, 11:24:31 PM »
if you want to go old school 35mm film then i would go Pentax K1000 if i were you. they are absolute rugged workhorses. a good one in working order will still fetch in excess of 200.00 and for good reason. they were hard as hell to break (and even when they did they might still be able to take a picture) and were just a plain and simple mechanical camera. no muss no fuss. they are still the most desired 35mm film camera being checked out at my university's equipment lab simply because all the other brands aren't reliable (at their age) and break.

couple that camera with some uber fast primes (shouldn't be that hard to find either) and you got yourself something that can give you an enjoyable vintage experience.

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