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Messages - agierke

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226
Software & Accessories / Re: Which iMac
« on: January 27, 2013, 12:45:55 AM »
if you are not a professional then the standard 27" iMac with 8gb Ram out of box should be more than fine. unless you are crunching 1000's of images on a weekly basis the specs you quoted are overkill.

i'm running a i5 2.66 GHz with 8GB Ram, 1TB drive, and 512mb vidcard and its just fine at crunching through 3000+ image weddings while running multiple programs at the same time.

if you got extra money to burn i'd put it towards lenses.

227
Lighting / Re: Selling off my old strobes, What to get next?
« on: January 25, 2013, 05:20:23 PM »
here is a link to a thread on PCB's Tech forum including a post right at the end by Buff himself:

http://www.paulcbuff-techforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=839

doesn't look promising though it seems like their is some capability gained using the FlexTT5 and Einstein combo. i dont see why the Odin's would be better/different than this set up. still curious as to what hi speed sync could be gained on an PCB strobe/Canon combo though as no one on the forum stated any achieved settings.

228
Software & Accessories / Re: Starting to work with RAW. Help?
« on: January 24, 2013, 09:25:13 PM »
i would suggest just picking up Lightroom. its a fairly inexpensive program and is really pretty easy to learn. never was all that impressed with Aperture....and i love most of what Apple does. had high hopes for it....but no one is gonna outdo what Adobe does in the realm of photography.

229
eninja,

 your comparison of apertures between the g12 and the 6D will be problematic. you are dealing with a lot less depth of field on your 6D.

 for max apertures i will only go to 2.8 or wider if i am dealing with a single subject and it depends greatly on the lens. on the 35L i am comfortable with the IQ down to F2.0...on my 70-200 2.8L i feel better at F4 but will go to F2.8 with the understanding that i will probably be getting soft results on a percentage of shots.

 for group small shots (2 to 3 people) i dont feel comfortable going wider than F5.6 but i will sometimes fudge it at F4 if i am desperate for light. for corporate head shots i try not to go wider than F8. for creative head shots i'll go to an F2 if i can.

 for sports i tried to stay at 5.6 or smaller as i wanted greater depth of field to compensate for the players movement throughout the frame. if i tried to shoot at F2.8 often times the players had moved out of my depth of field in the fraction of a second that it took the camera to focus and release the shutter. this was on the 5D series cameras which of course were less than ideal for action in terms of that focusing system.

 its all highly dependent upon then lens (focal length) that i am using and what the situation calls for. the full frame format is an entirely different animal in terms of Depth of Field and you should not reference your experiences on your G12 as to what apertures will work in certain situations. 

230
Lighting / Re: My first Studio!! Einsteins or Bowens??
« on: January 22, 2013, 04:47:17 PM »
im another Einstein guy. i use their radio transmitters as well.

as far as modifiers go, i have been less than impressed with PCB modifiers. i do own the PCB Beauty Dish and it is great. the PCB grids are a good deal as well as all other brands are way overpriced. the parabolic umbrellas are ok. the softboxes i would not recommend at all...terrible design.

for softboxes i like Westcott. they are made of good materials, are designed well, and are affordable compared to other brands. get the ones that have the inner diffusion panel as well as the removable front diffusion panel. they are very versatile. silver or white per your preference.

i have used Photoflex boxes but i wasn't a fan of the material they used...too plasticey. used Chimera alot as well but they are too pricey if you are on a budget. Plume was always my favorite but they are very expensive.

for umbrellas i have a couple from Photoflex (get the optical white as the plain white are again plasticey) but my favorites are the Photek Softlighters. good reflective material for use as an umbrella and they come with a front diffusion panel that turns it into a round soft source. the smaller sizes also come with inserts that will warm the light or create more specularity. they are a really great deal for cost vs function.

Photek also makes a great octobox called the Illuminata. its a really soft source and though i don't own one a few of my photographer buddies do and it is their favorite modifier for portraits.

avoid the Impact brand at all cost. despite their name sounding like they could take a beating...they can't. cheaply made and fall apart.

231
Lighting / Re: Selling off my old strobes, What to get next?
« on: January 22, 2013, 11:07:24 AM »
the einstein's are engineered to maintain color consistency in their normal mode throughout the power range. switching to the high speed mode and PCB says you will lose color consistency as you vary power.

gotta say TY to this thread! brought a new bit of information to me and now i have a project to look into to see if i can add capability to my bag of tricks. hope this works with the einsteins or i may feel the urge to add a couple more heads to the kit!

232
Lenses / Re: 24mm 35mm 70mm FoV
« on: January 22, 2013, 10:59:26 AM »
i have both the 35L and the 24-70 2.8L and i use both often. it really depends on the type of shoot i am doing which dictates which lens gets used.

if i am working in tight spaces or have to react fast i use the 24-70. if i am trying to get the look that only shooting wide open gives you i use the 35. sometimes i will have both mounted to two separate cameras. they are not superfluous to each other.

if you are a hobby shooter then i would say you probably don't need it. if you have professional needs, then i would say yes definitely get it.

233
Lighting / Re: Selling off my old strobes, What to get next?
« on: January 21, 2013, 06:50:53 PM »
well, the einsteins appear to have a flash duration anywhere from 1/588th to 1/13500th of a sec so i guess it would depend on the mode and the power settings as well as getting a radio transmitter that could control the timing of the flash pop.

hmm....im interested.

*edit*

sry for the spam posting but i am very intrigued by this notion.

found this link as well directly pertaining to canon cameras and speedlights. still unsure of how to incorporate different brand monoheads though.

http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/content_page.asp?cid=7-9991-10030

234
Lighting / Re: Selling off my old strobes, What to get next?
« on: January 21, 2013, 06:43:57 PM »
did some quick internet digging and found this:

Quote
This is your answer. With focal plane shutters and dedicated speedlights using HSS/FP sync up to 1/8000 sync isnt an issue. But if you are talking about studio lights (monolights and packs) things get really tricky. With leaf shutter cameras you can shoot past 1/1000 sec sync with studio strobes. What you need is a slow or delayed sync similiar to what was used with old school 1970s m-series camera syncs and class m-series flash bulbs for a slow sync delay (because it took about 20-25 milliseconds to reach illumination with these old flash bulbs). Today we use Pocketwizards with Hypersync for an advanced time sync.

You need these things to sync above 1/250 sec with focal plane shutter cameras and studio strobes:

Pocketwizards (camera must have a Pocketwizard MiniTT1 or FlexTT5) using Hypersync with the peak or tail method
The correct camera AND studio strobe combo.
A studio strobe light with a SLOW flash duration

According to Pocketwizard, sensor size and flash duration are the two biggest factors in how well Hypersync will work. You can get a very clean sync without clipping well past the 1/250 sync mark. How much more? Depends on your strobe and camera combo. You can get anywhere from 1/320 -1/8000. It is not easy to get the 1/8000 sync and factors depend with certain camera, strobe combo and ambient light. Good studio strobes to use with Pocketwizard Hypersync are: Profoto, Dynalite and Elinchrom with slower "S" head flash duration. I shoot with the Bowens Explorer 1500 strobe pack which has extremely high flash durations but doesnt have any slow flash durations for Hypersync to work well:1500w/s = 1/4,170s, 1000w/s = 1/5,700s 32w/s = 1/3,380s. The slowest flash duration I have on my pack is 1/3,380s.

A lot of posts on the topic so you can read more here:
http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/multi_page.asp?cid=7-9884-9903-9906
http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00Y5Q8?start=10
http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00YrJV

comes from this site....scroll down:

http://photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00ZySf

also found this mod for Nikon users:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/d70/discuss/72057594105643058/


interesting stuff. i will have to look into it further (when i have the time) because i have long wished for the capabilities of a leaf shutter in terms of flash sync for my digital shots.

235
Lighting / Re: Selling off my old strobes, What to get next?
« on: January 21, 2013, 06:31:32 PM »
the Einsteins are not capable of exceeding the sync of whatever canon camera you have. tested it and they failed. but that was using AB triggers.

i have never heard of a radio trigger being able exceed flash sync of a camera. i have only used canon speedlights to do that. and i highly doubt that you could shoot at 1/8000th of a sec with strobe and not be using a leaf shutter. even at 1/500th on a Hassi that was pushing it. everything i have ever experienced says that is not possible with a curtain type shutter.

i also don't believe 400w/s heads are enough power to beat direct sunlight. the einsteins are 640w/s and they struggle to beat direct sunlight with direct unmodified strobe.

i'm not buying it....but please, i would be thrilled to be proven wrong.

236
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: ISO 50
« on: January 21, 2013, 10:51:34 AM »
i would like to now see Neoro and Mikael do a rendition of "Who's on First".

237
Sports / Re: Q: Would car show shots be appropriate in here?
« on: January 21, 2013, 10:27:07 AM »
sure why not. i think the only thing you can't post is porn. i dont think nudity is allowed either but tastefully done implied nudes is probably ok. i would check the forum rules for clarification...i think its outlined somewhere in there.

i also wouldn't post other photographer's work without proper credit being given. that's just a respect thing.

but bring on the cars man!

238
Landscape / Re: Need critique for future improvement
« on: January 21, 2013, 10:17:09 AM »
Hey SJ,

 nice work. the only thing i could add is to be a little more careful when doing your post production. you have some "halos" happening around some of your details that can be distracting as it "reveals" your retouching...so to speak. i liken it to watching a movie where you wouldn't want to see a boom sneaking into the frame...it breaks the illusion of that world for the viewer.

 also, you could pay some more attention to midtone contrast on some of the photos to reveal more of the detail. here is a quick redo that i did to demo what i am talking about



i used Nik tonal contrast to bring out more detail in the surf and sky but you could also do some selective dodging and burning in PS. to handle the halo of the rock i zoomed in and dodged the midtones of the edge of the rock and then cloned in the sky where it got too bright. always zoom in when you are in PS so that you fill your screen with the area you are working on and always use appropriatley sized brushes for the size of work you are doing.

for me, this allows me to stay focused in the world you are showing me and not have my attention be broken by thoughts like "oh, there's a weird halo on that rock".

239
Lenses / Re: Grey (Gray) Market Advice
« on: January 20, 2013, 10:34:37 PM »
never buy gray market. its not worth the hassles if something goes wrong.

B&H have that lens for 1799.00 right now if you add it to your cart.

gray market is a bad idea.

240
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Kenrockwell comments on Canon 6d
« on: January 19, 2013, 10:32:09 PM »
well, this thread was doomed from the start. i've been watching it simply out of curiosity at the ferver it would reach. some of the tones taken were pretty disappointing and not indicative of what i have experienced on this site. to that point....

regardless of any CR members interests or experience level, i have come to enjoy the mostly good natured exchange of ideas, opinions, and experiences with different types of gear. i certainly expect this thread to be a blip on the radar of what i think is a pretty diverse and respectful online community.

what i have noticed is that there seems to sometimes be different perspectives between pros earning a living through photography and enthusiasts just enjoying photography. there is certainly no right or wrong but it seems that sometimes when those perspectives cross, context is lost in the shuffle.

i personally fall into the camp of thinking Ken Rockwell is a clown and i personally am underwhelmed by his work. i do not think anyone who enjoys Ken or learns something from his site is "stupid" or somehow below me in anyway. that would just be nonsense. i would caution those that follow Rockwell that there is a great deal of learning, experience, and enjoyment beyond his musings and to actively seek out other sources so that his thoughts don't become gospel. but this is true of anyone....any single source of information or inspiration can be troublesome in the long run.

i think what everyone can agree upon is that photography is simply alot of fun and very rewarding at all levels of experience. no one should ever feel hesitant to post images that they have done on this site for any reason. i think the majority of the members here truly enjoy seeing shots from everyone regardless of their skill level. i know i do...i only wish i could see more of all of your work.

that being said, i will soon be adding my website to my profile (as it is in the process of being updated...sorely overdue) and welcome all to visit it and critique away! i always felt the worst thing that someone could say about my work was nothing....i would much rather prefer that someone hated it or loved it. at least that way i could get some growth from the experience. indifference gives no satisfaction!

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