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Messages - CTJohn

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Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: November 21, 2013, 08:07:17 AM »
Some taken this afternoon in my yard of Japanese White-eyes (Mejiro). 5D3, 100-400L.
Lovely shots.  Excellent focus on the birds!  What were your settings?

Thanks CT John. All were handheld and using only ambient light while I stood on a ladder next to the tree (honey bees buzzing all around the flowering tree).
All were AE priority, f/5.6, 400mm (all heavily cropped and some PP in DPP), auto WB, auto ISO ( 1st 2 were 640 and last 2 were 320 ISO), spot AF one shot, TV was 1/400s for #2 and rest were 1/320s.

If you click on the photo, it takes you to my Flickr. There at the bottom on the extreme right lower side is 3 little dots together. If you click on the 3 dots, a menu pops up and the bottom item is "show EXIF data". Click on that and it lists all the EXIF.

I like your Kauai wild fowl photo. They are so colorful.
Thanks for the details.  I looked through your Flickr account and love your flower images as well.

Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: November 20, 2013, 05:12:13 PM »
One of the incredibly numerous wild fowl of Kauai.

6D, EF 24-105L.

Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: November 20, 2013, 05:06:09 PM »
Some taken this afternoon in my yard of Japanese White-eyes (Mejiro). 5D3, 100-400L.
Lovely shots.  Excellent focus on the birds!  What were your settings?

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS Rebel SL1/Kiss X7 in White
« on: November 14, 2013, 11:48:27 AM »
Could pink be next?
Could be a tie in with NFL breast cancer awareness uniforms?

Black & White / Re: Black and White Landscapes!
« on: November 11, 2013, 08:52:39 AM »
Goblin Valley State Park, Utah
7D, 24-105L

Landscape / Re: Flowers
« on: November 04, 2013, 08:50:44 AM »
Lilies shot yesterday indoors, 9 images focus stacked.

6D, EF 100 f/2.8L lens, softbox with 430EXII

Landscape / Re: Waterscapes
« on: October 29, 2013, 01:21:36 PM »
Ender's State Park - Connecticut.  Lovely falls with variable water flow throughout the year.

Macro / Re: Canon 100mm IS USM L Macro Photos
« on: October 26, 2013, 04:22:14 PM »
10 images, focus stacked.
6D, 100L Macro
that is a really nice image, i am going to have to read some tutorials on focus stacking.
Here's a good start...

Software & Accessories / Re: Portable Storage Backup?
« on: October 26, 2013, 04:17:52 PM »
I use the Hyperdrive ColorSpace.  It works great.
I have one too, and the best I can say is it backs up my images.  The interface is something from 10 years ago - why not touch screen, why not a simpler menu, why not a better screen?  I'd love a better option but haven't been able to find one.  My guess is some sort of tablet will provide this in the future.

Macro / Re: Canon 100mm IS USM L Macro Photos
« on: October 26, 2013, 09:45:47 AM »
10 images, focus stacked.
6D, 100L Macro

Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: October 26, 2013, 09:33:06 AM »
Hanalei Bay, Kauai
9 image panorama.
6D, 24-105 f/4L
1/5 second at f/22.

Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: October 26, 2013, 09:29:08 AM »
Kilauea Lighthouse, Kauai.
6D, 24-105 f/4L
0.3 second at f/22

Canon General / Re: Official: Sigma 24-105mm f/4 DG OS
« on: October 15, 2013, 08:20:14 AM »
Amazing how Sigma, after tons of so-so lenses and poor quality control, now gets the automatic nod from most of the posters.  I'm happy with my Canon 24-105L and only phenomenal results in the real world would get my interest.

PowerShot / Re: Limited Edition PowerShot Cameras Coming
« on: October 15, 2013, 08:15:06 AM »
One option comes with a Sony sensor!

In ideal circumstances yes everything you say is true, but even many professionals don't have that kind of work environment, almost no amateurs do, and that is one of the route causes for people being so unhappy with their prints.

Understand brightness and the difference between screen and print viewing and that, in my opinion, is the biggest hurdle to happy printing. Colour spaces, profiles, what manages colour etc are all just clicks of a button and easily repeated, but brightness isn't, and it is key.
Agree!  I mostly use MPIX for my printing and the process is incredibly frustrating.  I have a calibrated monitor turned down to 30% brightness, and it's way brighter than the first prints I get back from MPIX.  I then go through round 2, upping contrast, brightness, and in some cases, saturation and send them back.  The second prints can be OK, but often I need to do the process a 3rd time.  So about 3 weeks after I've taken the image, I have a usable 4x6....then I order enlargements.

It's even more frustrating when someone asks me to re-print a year later and I have to try to remember which one gave me the good print.  I could be more disciplined creating "print" folders I guess.

I understand the difference between backlit and printed images, but wish someone could work out a simpler way of adjusting between the two.


The solution to your issue is a print viewing booth or station. Off the shelf ones are very expensive, but all it needs to be is a neutral background close to white/very light grey, with a good full spectrum light source (there are some high quality bulbs that are very cheap nowadays) that can match your screen brightness, some baffles to help keep any extraneous light off the print helps too depending on ambient conditions. To test you can use your cameras meter, take a picture of a plain piece of photo paper in the viewing station, then with the same exposure settings take a picture of your screen when it displays a white screen. Adjust until they are the same.

Here is a DIY booth PDF

Here is the Rolls Royce of lighting kits but there are some very good flourescent choices now too.

But even with a booth it is important to understand that your viewing conditions will be different to everybody else's! Prints live and die on the light that is cast onto them. Few people have their monitor and viewing station at the same WB, and generally this isn't too important, our eyes adjust for WB quicker than we can scan between the two images next to each other, but most lights are around 3,500ºK whereas most screens display around 6,500-5,000ºK.

Try using a 3,500ºK adjusted screen for anything but print evaluation and you will see why!
Thanks for the suggestion!

I'll still have the problem of my prints being darker than my display though, won't I?  That seems to be the crux of my issue since I bought the Spyder.

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