Yippee! Time to break the piggy bank.
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I agree. I have a 7D which I limit at ISO 800 in auto ISO...I limit my 6D at 6400 and I think the noise level is better at that level than at 800 on the 7D. A very pleasant surprise.6D is two stops better or so. So if 800 is your cut-off now, 3200 would probably be your cut-off on the 6D. Anyone else agree?
That's my experience coming from a 50D, where I was never happy with >800 ISO, and that's at the pixel level so comparing 15 MPix to 20 MPix (even more in favor of the 6D IQ). I set the auto-iso cut-off to 3200 and find those images very usable, and typically don't even apply NR to 800 ISO shots unless I underexpose and have to adjust shadow levels. For JPEG even 6400 is quite good, but with raw you do have to work a bit to do as well as the onboard processor. Pretty amazing, actually.
You could consider the Vello ring instead, for 1/3 the cost of the OEM.I can't find the Vello ring C anywhere and I think that's the one for this lens, isn't it?
Apologies - you're right, they only make A and D (was thinking of the ring for the 70-200/4). Looks like there is one from Fotodiox and a bunch of cheapo ones on Amazon.
Personally, I got the Canon ring.
Get the collar. Balance is much better, meaning positioning is easier and more stable, and it's easy to switch from landscape to portrait orientation.I can't find the Vello ring C anywhere and I think that's the one for this lens, isn't it?
You could consider the Vello ring instead, for 1/3 the cost of the OEM.
No, unfortunately I don't know anyone else with a 6D. It sounds like I'm not the only one with this sort of problem from the above comments.I have not had issues between metering modes and within a same scene. It's just dark, and if indoors, off color.
I haven't played much with a 6D but still find that is unexpected behavior.
Everything that I've used with that 63 zone metering sensor has provided excellent metering and AWB.
Can you compare your 6D with another, side-by-side, same lens?
I've found various bodies to expose with various levels of error, no real surprise.I have not had issues between metering modes and within a same scene. It's just dark, and if indoors, off color.
What I find more annoying tho, is an inconsistent error on any given body.
new Pentax K52s with fast zoom and sunlight.
- matrix metering is within 1/3 of Sekonic
- CWA and Spot on the same uniform surface are -1EV from matrix
I thot this may be due to the effect of lens corner shading in matrix EXCEPT that if I move to an indoor location, again on a smooth surface evenly lit by natural outside light thru windows, all metering modes are now the same result!
FWIW, my K52s underexposes considerably and inconsistently when outdoors in sunlight, no matter what metering mode I use and even sunny-16 numbers do not provide proper results but are often nearly 2 stops under... I need to get that thing checked out... I can usually rely on full manual giving consistent results but I have to go by the histogram as the metering's too wonky. Same behavior with various lenses so not sure what its problem is yet, aperture control lever calibration?.. Have to find some time for detailed testing.
My D800 does the same -1EV shift in sunlight when changing between metering modes as the K52s but its matrix mode does a very good job for all my shots and rarely under or over exposes by much in complex scenes and is predictable in low dynamic range shots.
My old Canon 5d2 often underexposed a great deal and again, inconsistently. It occasionally over exposed a scene grossly too, even with no change of scene and from shot to shot. Manual was the only way to get consistent shot-to-shot results.
my 60D and 7d2 gave remarkably accurate and consistently good metering (&WB) and also agreed very well with my Sekonics or sunny-16 when in manual. 40d gives consistent and predictable metering, even if not accurate.
All my consumer grade bodies, Canon and Nikon, actually seem to meter quite predictably and consistently, if a little conservative at times so they rarely clip highlites or underexpose by much.
So... not surprised to hear that a 6D underexposes a bit.
But how consistent is it between metering modes and various light levels? and shot-to-shot on the same scene?
I learned Lightroom in Chris Orwig's training session on Lynda.com. Not free, but they have monthly subscriptions, and the Lightroom course is excellent (as well as those on Photoshop.)There are people on this forum who use LR in many different ways, and I frequently see advice that I feel is not the best practice. There is also lots of accurate advice. The problem for a new user is to determine which is which. That's where viewing training videos on the Adobe site or on a expert users site is useful. Utube is neat, but not everything is done by someone who knows the best practice.Youtube has thousands of tutorial, why not take a look there?
Have looked and will look some more, however this is a forum after all. Always good to get some good tips and advice from people as you they might not all be covered in video tutorials etc.
I've owned a 7D since shortly after its introduction. I bought a 6D this past April. On my recent trip I shot the 6D as my carry-around (still getting to know it) and anytime the light was low. I used either/or in daylight. Action (surfers, birds, etc.) in daylight was almost exclusively 7D. The dynamic range of the 6D beats the 7D hands-down. 7D AF, AF points, frame rate is way above 6D capabilities. My 7D captures almost double the frames my 6D does in the same amount of time. I don't regret buying the 6D just for the increased ability to shoot well at night, and for better detail in my landscapes. The 7D has survived so long because as a new breed it was far superior to the xxD line, and its features pushed the xD line; though it lacked xD DR & ISO capabilities most of these issues could be addressed in ppc. Marry the best features of the two bodies together for a sure winner in the 7D MkII.I have the same cameras and agree completely.
I agree that the Carbonite upload takes forever, particularly the initial and after a photo trip, but the security offsite from my computer makes it worthwhile.I just bought WD My Book 4TB External Hard Drive Storage. Today, it will be used on a USB2 PC, and later, a USB3. After I move the images, I plan to get a Carbonite account, the one that backs up external drives. I'm guessing a new backup of an external drive with ~500GB of images, will day a few days, depending on fast Comcast's upload speed is that day(s)
I don't want to discourage you from using Carbonite, because it's a great service to have, but you should know they throttle uploads to 2-3 GB a day (at least they did when I did my initial backup). It took me months to get my computer initially backed up, and that was less than 400GB of data.
Natural looking HDR is just like dodging and burning a B&W print. You over expose the shadows and under expose the highlights. It's been done in the wet darkroom for decades.Agree. I use HDR quite often to expand dynamic range, but am sure to make it subtle. My complaint about HDR is the overuse of the sliders, resulting in a comic book look. It's the same problem I have with over-saturation, and over-sharpening that seems the norm too often.
Here too.Often. With limits.
.+! - thanks!
Thanks. That's helpful as I move toward deciding when to update.