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Messages - TAF

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106
Lenses / Re: Need advice on telephoto zoom Lens
« on: February 08, 2013, 02:34:28 PM »
I would pack up the 40D, 70-300 non-L, and the 28-135, and send them to either KEH or B&H in partial trade for a 5D3 with the 24-105L, then, if money permits, buy the 70-300L.

That is what I have, and am very pleased.

I tried the 28-135 on my 5D3, and was not impressed.  The 24-105 is a vastly superior lens, and the slight difference at the long end is more than made up for by the better IQ.

I found the difference between the 70-300 non-L and the L equally stark.  It is unlikely you will be happy with the non-L lens on a 5D3.

Right now, though, my favorite lens is the Zeiss 50mm f1.4 manual focus...


107
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 2nd camera body with a twist -
« on: February 05, 2013, 07:37:46 PM »
I have found several threads where people have compared the 1ds Mark 3 to the 5 D 3 and say there's very little real world difference.

There is one HUGE difference between the 1Ds and the 5D3.

The 5D3 has a warranty.  The 1Ds doesn't.

Do you really want to put your money into a 3-5 year old piece of equipment that might very well die at any moment, or a piece of equipment that if it does die will be fixed for free?

Especially since the newer one will in reality be better (especially at high ISO's).  There actually is a difference, it's just perhaps not quite enough for some people to upgrade (which I don't agree with, but then, I use 12800 ISO all the time).


108
Pricewatch Deals / Re: What is the best place to sell your equipment?
« on: January 23, 2013, 10:09:57 PM »
Since my purpose in parting with gear has always been to get new equipment, I've always traded in to either KEH or B&H.

Yes, they perhaps offer a little less than I might get elsewhere, but they have been no hassle at all, and I get nice new items from them in about two weeks.

Considering the time and effort involved in eBay or CL, it's worked out for the best for me.


109
Animal Kingdom / Re: Kitty
« on: January 06, 2013, 05:12:33 PM »
Frodo taking a nap...

5D3 with a 135mm f4.7 Graphex Optar lens adapted via a kludge (bellows extension, bored out C to EOS adapter).

I used the iris on the lens and the shutter on the body for this one.  I've taken others where I've used the iris and shutter on the lens and simply set the body for "B".

With Live View the whole process becomes fairly straightforward and enjoyable, if somewhat difficult to hand hold.


110
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon DSLR Body Rumors for 2013
« on: January 01, 2013, 09:31:24 PM »
Can someone who reads Japanese let us know what it says about the EOS-M2, please?

I'm hoping for full frame...

Thanks!


111
PowerShot Cameras / Re: Canon France Teases New Products
« on: December 28, 2012, 01:49:24 PM »
The next camera they're going to announce will be so expensive not only will you not be able to afford it, but just standing there imagining holding in your hand will drain your bank account to the point where you won't even be able to afford a ping pong ball.

112
Lenses / Re: What lenses should I take to India?
« on: December 28, 2012, 01:39:15 PM »
Don't forget a polarizing filter.


113
Macro / Re: Couldn't do this again if I tried
« on: December 25, 2012, 06:03:53 PM »
Killer shot, yes that bee does look angry. He might be an assassin!  :D

He does, doesn't he?

Brilliant photograph.  I hope the following frame wasn't a random shot of the ground with you running away...


114
Lenses / Re: Infinity and Cold
« on: December 22, 2012, 07:33:23 PM »
I must admit that I've never understood why my Canon FD lenses can have a nice convenient hard stop at infinity and never suffered from any noticeable focus shift with temperature (and I did use them over a huge range) while my EF's don't have a stop and apparently have to be that way to deal with temperature extremes?


115
Canon General / Re: some money left. what should I buy?
« on: December 21, 2012, 10:16:44 AM »
You seem to be missing:

1. High capacity high speed memory cards
2. Filters (Polarizer, ND's, Gradient, etc.)


116
LED's (the future) may or may not blink depending on the power supply they have.  LED's run on DC (which shouldn't blink), but some of the power supplies are simply AC rectified (all the humps are on one side of zero), which on average looks like DC, but which to a fast acting LED is (again) 120 peaks per second.

You also have to watch out for LED Christmas lights, they usually only have a half wave rectifier, so you only have 60 peaks per second, and half of each cycle is at zero.


Thank you for that warning, I didn't know that (although I suppose I am not surprised).

I run a number of LED lights around the house, and use 'wallwart' power supplies to supply them.  I make certain that the supplies are regulated DC to both protect the LED's (which still aren't cheap), and to avoid all these issues.


117
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: right now i am not happy to be a canon user
« on: December 20, 2012, 02:31:12 PM »
and...I would understand if your pay for a camera which works flawlessly. Unfortunately I bought my in May, and so far, several European service actions hasn't fixes mine. Service in Germany even completely blocked one of my ,almost new, L lens. No one is willing to exchange the camera for a new one. I own 5 lenses (4 Ls) and that's why I  cannot be happy with Canon. Paid really a lot for the brand new, faulty body, without good working AF, so I feel like I just waste my money right now. I completely agree that Canon is too expensive relatively, but mine was the most expensive camera I had ever bought. I wanted to buy some new lens next year but I just cant. Trust me-that is a real reason to be unhappy with Canon, the will just left you with faulty body if you are unlucky. The issue and the whole case is not only my problem as there are also 3  other professional photographers on the local most known Canon forum, who have the same problem with Canon. We have been just completely left with faulty gear.  So my advice is double or triple check otherwise service will not help you in some cases.

When you say you are left with faulty gear, do you mean 1) it does not work as advertised and Canon won't fix it, or 2) that it does not work the way you want it to (but does work exactly the way it is designed)?

If the former (1), you have legal recourse available to you.  Contact your government trade commission and ask them how to file a complaint.  I seriously doubt that Canon repair really is leaving you high and dry - I want to hear the rest of the story.

If the later (2), then there is really nothing to be done, other than to either wait until Canon makes one works the way you want, see if Magic Lantern does what you want, or change to a different brand that may (or may not) work the way you want.


118
Mt. Spokane, it's 60Hz.  (That's the frequency.)  120 is the voltage.  So the shutter must stay below 1/60.  Impossible to do so the effect must be dealt with in post.

Here's a great write up on the issue...
http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=20873


While the power line frequency in the US is 60 Hz, the blink rate IS 120 Hz.

The definition of one cycle is when the voltage starts from zero, goes to a peak, then back through zero to a peak in the opposite direction and then back to zero.  Thus the light starts at off, goes to a maximum, goes off again, then goes to another maximum (then back to off, but that last off is the start of the next cycle).  Hence the light blinks twice per cycle.

Incandescent lamps don't blink badly because the filament doesn't have time to cool sufficiently between peaks, while fluorescents and discharge lamps do have time to cut off.

LED's (the future) may or may not blink depending on the power supply they have.  LED's run on DC (which shouldn't blink), but some of the power supplies are simply AC rectified (all the humps are on one side of zero), which on average looks like DC, but which to a fast acting LED is (again) 120 peaks per second.

At 1/60 shutter speed you should get you a full exposure.  1/125 could get you 1/2 of what you want, if the capture takes place around the zero crossing.


119
Lenses / Re: Best landscape lenses
« on: December 16, 2012, 12:21:03 PM »
Privatebydesign - many thanks for all the very useful information, references, and hands on use experience you've provided.  I see a MkII TS in my future.

120
Lenses / Re: Best landscape lenses
« on: December 16, 2012, 12:26:29 AM »
For about $150 you can get a back for your 4x5 camera that will let you put the 5D3 body on.  I would suggest starting there; that way, you can use your LF lenses to create a baseline for comparison.  You might find that the optics have quite a bit to do with it.   And you get to use all the movements with your digital 'back'.  I realize that it doesn't cover the full field of view, but then again, with live view, you get skip the part where you trade the ground glass for the film pack.

It would be a cheap way to experiment until you find the settings that get you what you want.

I've been playing around with some old Ektar lenses on my 5D3 (with a real kludge of an attachment), and I find the images very interesting, so I just bought myself a LF camera (a Graphic View w/203mm lens), and plan on getting one of those back as soon as the camera arrives.  I'll even be doing some film, because there is still something about it that strikes my fancy.

If you are a serious LF user, the TS lenses might not be enough for you movement wise.

The trouble with them is the small format cameras mirror box, it is so deep you often get shadowing.

As for the smaller lenses having less movements, well they need less! Tilt degrees are directly related to the focal length, Policar's 4x5 lenses have a 135 format 3x crop factor, that means any lens he used to get the same fov would need one third the tilt. If he used 30º of tilt with his 300mm on the 4x5, he could use 10º tilt with a 90mm on a 135 format for the same identical image.

That is very useful information, thank you for that.

But I was actually referring not to the amount of movement, but the number of options available.

The TS lens has essentially two.  A proper view camera has more like 8.  If the OP is a serious LF guy, he might be used to having more options available (I see from his reply above that is likely not the case, but I didn't know that at the time).


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