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Messages - TAF

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106
Canon General / Re: some money left. what should I buy?
« on: December 21, 2012, 10:16:44 AM »
You seem to be missing:

1. High capacity high speed memory cards
2. Filters (Polarizer, ND's, Gradient, etc.)


107
LED's (the future) may or may not blink depending on the power supply they have.  LED's run on DC (which shouldn't blink), but some of the power supplies are simply AC rectified (all the humps are on one side of zero), which on average looks like DC, but which to a fast acting LED is (again) 120 peaks per second.

You also have to watch out for LED Christmas lights, they usually only have a half wave rectifier, so you only have 60 peaks per second, and half of each cycle is at zero.


Thank you for that warning, I didn't know that (although I suppose I am not surprised).

I run a number of LED lights around the house, and use 'wallwart' power supplies to supply them.  I make certain that the supplies are regulated DC to both protect the LED's (which still aren't cheap), and to avoid all these issues.


108
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: right now i am not happy to be a canon user
« on: December 20, 2012, 02:31:12 PM »
and...I would understand if your pay for a camera which works flawlessly. Unfortunately I bought my in May, and so far, several European service actions hasn't fixes mine. Service in Germany even completely blocked one of my ,almost new, L lens. No one is willing to exchange the camera for a new one. I own 5 lenses (4 Ls) and that's why I  cannot be happy with Canon. Paid really a lot for the brand new, faulty body, without good working AF, so I feel like I just waste my money right now. I completely agree that Canon is too expensive relatively, but mine was the most expensive camera I had ever bought. I wanted to buy some new lens next year but I just cant. Trust me-that is a real reason to be unhappy with Canon, the will just left you with faulty body if you are unlucky. The issue and the whole case is not only my problem as there are also 3  other professional photographers on the local most known Canon forum, who have the same problem with Canon. We have been just completely left with faulty gear.  So my advice is double or triple check otherwise service will not help you in some cases.

When you say you are left with faulty gear, do you mean 1) it does not work as advertised and Canon won't fix it, or 2) that it does not work the way you want it to (but does work exactly the way it is designed)?

If the former (1), you have legal recourse available to you.  Contact your government trade commission and ask them how to file a complaint.  I seriously doubt that Canon repair really is leaving you high and dry - I want to hear the rest of the story.

If the later (2), then there is really nothing to be done, other than to either wait until Canon makes one works the way you want, see if Magic Lantern does what you want, or change to a different brand that may (or may not) work the way you want.


109
Mt. Spokane, it's 60Hz.  (That's the frequency.)  120 is the voltage.  So the shutter must stay below 1/60.  Impossible to do so the effect must be dealt with in post.

Here's a great write up on the issue...
http://www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=20873


While the power line frequency in the US is 60 Hz, the blink rate IS 120 Hz.

The definition of one cycle is when the voltage starts from zero, goes to a peak, then back through zero to a peak in the opposite direction and then back to zero.  Thus the light starts at off, goes to a maximum, goes off again, then goes to another maximum (then back to off, but that last off is the start of the next cycle).  Hence the light blinks twice per cycle.

Incandescent lamps don't blink badly because the filament doesn't have time to cool sufficiently between peaks, while fluorescents and discharge lamps do have time to cut off.

LED's (the future) may or may not blink depending on the power supply they have.  LED's run on DC (which shouldn't blink), but some of the power supplies are simply AC rectified (all the humps are on one side of zero), which on average looks like DC, but which to a fast acting LED is (again) 120 peaks per second.

At 1/60 shutter speed you should get you a full exposure.  1/125 could get you 1/2 of what you want, if the capture takes place around the zero crossing.


110
Lenses / Re: Best landscape lenses
« on: December 16, 2012, 12:21:03 PM »
Privatebydesign - many thanks for all the very useful information, references, and hands on use experience you've provided.  I see a MkII TS in my future.

111
Lenses / Re: Best landscape lenses
« on: December 16, 2012, 12:26:29 AM »
For about $150 you can get a back for your 4x5 camera that will let you put the 5D3 body on.  I would suggest starting there; that way, you can use your LF lenses to create a baseline for comparison.  You might find that the optics have quite a bit to do with it.   And you get to use all the movements with your digital 'back'.  I realize that it doesn't cover the full field of view, but then again, with live view, you get skip the part where you trade the ground glass for the film pack.

It would be a cheap way to experiment until you find the settings that get you what you want.

I've been playing around with some old Ektar lenses on my 5D3 (with a real kludge of an attachment), and I find the images very interesting, so I just bought myself a LF camera (a Graphic View w/203mm lens), and plan on getting one of those back as soon as the camera arrives.  I'll even be doing some film, because there is still something about it that strikes my fancy.

If you are a serious LF user, the TS lenses might not be enough for you movement wise.

The trouble with them is the small format cameras mirror box, it is so deep you often get shadowing.

As for the smaller lenses having less movements, well they need less! Tilt degrees are directly related to the focal length, Policar's 4x5 lenses have a 135 format 3x crop factor, that means any lens he used to get the same fov would need one third the tilt. If he used 30º of tilt with his 300mm on the 4x5, he could use 10º tilt with a 90mm on a 135 format for the same identical image.

That is very useful information, thank you for that.

But I was actually referring not to the amount of movement, but the number of options available.

The TS lens has essentially two.  A proper view camera has more like 8.  If the OP is a serious LF guy, he might be used to having more options available (I see from his reply above that is likely not the case, but I didn't know that at the time).


112
Lenses / Re: Best landscape lenses
« on: December 15, 2012, 10:02:06 PM »
For about $150 you can get a back for your 4x5 camera that will let you put the 5D3 body on.  I would suggest starting there; that way, you can use your LF lenses to create a baseline for comparison.  You might find that the optics have quite a bit to do with it.   And you get to use all the movements with your digital 'back'.  I realize that it doesn't cover the full field of view, but then again, with live view, you get skip the part where you trade the ground glass for the film pack.

It would be a cheap way to experiment until you find the settings that get you what you want.

I've been playing around with some old Ektar lenses on my 5D3 (with a real kludge of an attachment), and I find the images very interesting, so I just bought myself a LF camera (a Graphic View w/203mm lens), and plan on getting one of those back as soon as the camera arrives.  I'll even be doing some film, because there is still something about it that strikes my fancy.

If you are a serious LF user, the TS lenses might not be enough for you movement wise.

113
EOS Bodies / Re: Asking for 5D III firmware improvements
« on: November 29, 2012, 09:09:47 PM »
If the hardware will support it, I would be most pleased to have a 1200 fps (or faster) video capability, even if it necessitated as little as 320x240 resolution (if needed to reduce the readout/data move time).

High speed video is just so ridiculously expensive...


114
Canon General / Re: A Lion Eats an EOS 5D Mark II & EF 16-35 f/2.8L II
« on: November 28, 2012, 08:56:53 AM »

It turns out Ed Hetherington had the same sort of thing happen and sacrificed his Canon EOS 5D Mark II and EF 16-35 f/2.8L II for some fun photographs. The good and bad news? The lens lived, but the camera is touch and go.</p>


"Honest honey, I have to buy a new camera - a lion eat mine."

"Hello Prudential"

"We're sorry, but your insurance policy has an exclusion for that.  You're covered for bear and shark eatings, but not lion."

"Today Nikon announces it's newest mascot..."

Nikon executive at board meeting: "I've got this great plan for increasing market share"

They said the camera industry was dog eat dog...

Would have preferred a Twinkie, but alas...

115
EOS Bodies / Re: EOS 6D launch and effect on 5D MkII & MKIII
« on: November 24, 2012, 12:31:14 AM »
So answer this question, do you ever back-up your computer to make sure you don't lose the important files/photos you have saved???  Having a 2nd memory card slot is the same thing when it comes to a camera!  I guess we're not going to agree on the importance of having back-up files! 

My point is from a retail price standpoint, I'd much rather have a camera with a 2nd memory card slot and pop-up flash vs. a camera that had one card slot and no pop-up flash, but had GPS and WiFi.  If you talk about the "wants v. needs", how many people really need GPS and WiFi? 


WiFi = The ultimate 2nd memory card slot, without taking up space in the camera body, and with a great many other benefits as well.

Computer back-ups are great, if you keep them off site.  If they're in the same building, then they're only so-so, since if the place burns down, everything goes.  Same with having two card slots in the body - drop the camera over the side of the boat, and it doesn't matter if you copied to both cards.  But with WiFi, your laptop sitting safely in the corner can still have your images.

Sounds to me like Canon is trying for a paradigm shift in this area.

116
EOS Bodies / Re: February & March are Announcement Months for Canon [CR2]
« on: November 17, 2012, 05:32:00 PM »
   
  • integrated grip



Wow...that would make me not buy it for sure!

I would imagine that's what a potential 70D would be for.  I add a grip to every camera I buy and it's definitely useful for sports and any time you're shooting in portrait orientation.  I think it would also enhance weather sealing for me since adding a grip always introduces another point of failure for the seals.

With or without a grip, none of these DSLRs can be considered small, I consider the benefits outweigh the minor drawbacks.

A non-removable grip is a catastrophe for me, as it makes the camera not fit where I want it, and it makes it heavier and bigger than it needs to be for the 99% of the time I don't need a grip.  If you want a grip, buy a grip.  I never have, and I never plan to.  That's the beauty of a removable grip - those that want one can have one, those that don't aren't forced to have one.  This is one reason I'd never buy a 1D body.

I'll agree with that sentiment; that is why I ended up with the 5D3 instead of the 1DX.

The additional capability of the 1DX was not enough for me to overcome the fact that it did not fit my small hands well enough, mostly because of the larger grip and bottom.


117
EOS Bodies / Re: February & March are Announcement Months for Canon [CR2]
« on: November 17, 2012, 05:29:21 PM »
Thinking about the next 'M' (is the M for mirrorless?); what I would love to see (read: would buy) is a FF body using the sensor/electronics from the 5D3 (I use those high ISO's), a real EF mount, and a simple optical viewfinder.

All for around $1500.  Which is not an unreasonable number if you think about what a 5D3 costs compared to the 5D2, and then subtract off the AF module and viewfinder assembly.

Take that, Leica!

(in fact, if the AF worked decently and it did a similar number of fps, it might replace my 5D3)

118
EOS Bodies / Bracketing Focus (automatically)
« on: November 17, 2012, 11:41:39 AM »
Hello All;

I have a thought for a feature that doesn't seem to be there yet.

With our EF lenses, the camera knows (and can quickly set) the focus distance.  The computer in the camera can easily calculate the DOF from the exposure.  They already offer built in exposure bracketing.

Why not offer focus bracketing?  With a USM lens, the time required to shoot (say) three successive photos with three different focus distances would be minimal.  Perhaps setable for how many and what the end points are.  I've seen it done manually (it is certainly easy to do that way; I sometimes do it just to be certain of capturing a landscape just the way I want it).

Seems like something that would, from time to time, be very valuable to have.  And the ability to combine the photos just as one does with HDR would make for potentially fascinating photos.

And if this is buried in menu 174 of my 5D3, my apologies for not having read the manual enough times to find it...


119
Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon
« on: November 14, 2012, 01:18:14 AM »
A couple of random shots from last year's trip to Sedona:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/34970367@N03/sets/72157632005390936/

(the sum total of shots from that trip convinced me of the need to replace the 50D with a 5D3; looking forward to returning soon)


120
Lenses / Re: Landscape tips needed on shooting the Grand Canyon
« on: November 14, 2012, 12:08:53 AM »
1. Check to see if the South Rim is still open.  It is getting late in the year; it could already be snowed in.

2. Sedona is beautiful and the people are really friendly.  I love going there.  The main street can be very photogenic.  There is a nifty camera store in town, nearby is Oaxaca, is a nice mexican restaurant.  Note that the economy is not great in the area, so you can get excellent deals on lodging.  Pull up Google maps; you'll find a turnout south of town at 34.82335 N/-111.77610 W.  Look due east from there and you'll see a pair of spires (locally called the sisters).  If you get lucky, you can catch the moon rising between them.  It's a spectacular shot.

3. It is well worth the drive up Highway 89A to the top of Oak Creek Canyon (straight out of town heading north, can't miss it).  There are numerous places to stop and take interesting photos at this time of year, and when you get to the top there is a parking area/scenic lookout where the local Indians set up tables and sell beautiful hand made jewelry and other things.

4. Pack a jacket, hat, and sunglasses.  While it may be shirtsleeve down in Sedona, it may well be below freezing at the top of the canyon.  And the higher in elevation you go, the stronger the UV and the greater the risk of sunburn (especially in winter).

5. If you are driving your own car (as opposed to a rental), make certain the cooling system and brakes are in top notch condition.  Even at this time of year your can can overheat driving up the canyon, and the brakes take a beating driving down.

6. I hear that the glass horseshoe out over the Grand Canyon is spectacular, but I haven't been there yet.

7. If they are still operating (there were some issues a number of years ago), there are scenic flights over the GC.  Worth the price if the weather is really clear (it should be this time of year).

8. At the GC you will find plenty of flat horizons for the grad filter (I wish I had had one of those years ago).

9. I would forget the flash; seek maximum fulfillment with the high ISO capability of the 5D3.

10. If you feel the need for some additional weight, bring water bottles.  Gallon jugs are a good idea (9 pounds each, and you can drink them if the car breaks down and use them if you need water for the radiator).

I'll leave lens recommendations to others.

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