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Messages - Aglet

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Third Party Manufacturers / Re: DxOMark trashes the Leica M9 sensor
« on: March 12, 2013, 03:01:19 PM »
I've never even cared for DxO marks tbh, and dont get why anyone does, photographys an art, not a game of top trumps
You are certainly free to treat photography as an art-form only. Why are you then spending time on a forum about gear?

I see photography as a marriage between art and science. You can't have one without the other.


Even Ansel Adams spent tons of time in the old-fashioned  camera lab working on how to improve tech and get the most out of what he had.
Best way to know when you're pushing the limits of your gear is to know what and where those limitations are.

Lenses are good investments, tend to hold their value well and some of the older ones (nikon, pentax, CZ) are actually appreciating lately.

Don't worry about having too many, you could have, say, 119... and still not be too concerned..  ;)

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Keep or sell my 7D
« on: March 09, 2013, 12:59:21 AM »
Jpk, do you do any paid shooting?   If so, even if just a little, I'd keep it as a backup.  If not, I say sell and buy something else wi the $.

I agree.

I had 5d2 and 7d. Sold both in January.  Still managed over a grand for the mint 7D, took a small bath on the 5d2 but it's had its day (about the same day I bought it, IMO) and I didn't love either of those cameras for their shortcomings.  Altho i do miss the 7D for its AF system, I sold it in anticipation of an improved crop sensor cam from Canon, sometimes this year, that I can pair with my 100-400 for the little bit of bird and wildlife shooting I use it for.

if you don't need it or use it, sell it
but if it still serves a purpose, then it's your gamble when to sell and how much it'll continue to depreciate.
We can bet a 70D, IF it gets the 7D's AF system, will likely be hobbled in enough ways so that the 7D2 will look more of a step up and demand a significantly higher price point... Which also means the current 7D's resale won't necessarily drop much or suddenly.

In my case I was hoping for either a new Canon body with better sensor tech and 7D equivalent AF system or better, or an improved 80-400mm from Nikon.  Nikon just announced the lens but I've yet to see it outperform the old Canon 100-400 and the new Nikon's over $2500.  Would be cheaper for me to keep the Canon lens and buy another Canon body for this one combination.  Of course, there will be more things announced this year to further complicate my options.

Pricewatch Deals / Re: New Canon EOS-1D X starting for $5499 via eBay
« on: March 04, 2013, 01:39:45 AM »
There's one finishing on eBay in just over 30 hours, no bids yet, open box new with warranty from authorized Canadian dealer.

oddly worded description quote, but supposed to be a new body


lots of hits on the page but nobody has come up with a bid just yet.
I still don't want one of these.  ;D

I see DPreview just posted tests on the Fuji X-E1

holy cow!
That's a seriously lacking-in-chroma-noise sensor system and-or some terrific in-camera processing.

I was impressed by the hi-ISO performance from my Pentax K-01 but the Fuji manages to pull even farther ahead.
Oh, how I wish some of my (cough, cough, canon, cough, nikon, choke) SLR bodies performed like that.

I'm hoping the more affordable X20 will be similarly good, considering its pixel size.
This new crop of mirrorless is hewing a very clean path in some direction.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Good TripodHead
« on: February 27, 2013, 03:17:29 PM »
I have the Manfrotto (310 I think) Junior Geared Head.
It's great for accurate changing of levels or straightening the horizon.
It's downsize is it's bloody heavy and big.
I was caught by surprise when it arrived as I was expecting junior to be small.
Once you get over size and weight it's super.
It's steady as a rock.
I got of sick of ballheads and trying to get them properly level.
Maybe I should have gone for something more expensive like a Swiss Arca Ball Head or Really Right Stuff.

LOVE my manfrotto gear heads, they're almost all I use.
had some ball-heads, they blow.  Kept one midsize manfrotto ball head for use with my compact cams.
ballheads are ok if you're messing around and need to be fast

The 410 Junior is a nice match to the 055 tripod, very solid, nice big mounting plate.
I use the bigger 405 with heavier rigs and bigger 'pods.

A cheaper head a buddy likes is the one with 3 large levers to move the 3 sections and each one is also a twist lock.  it's quite precise too, not as small but if you're used to it it's pretty fast and solid.  it also has built-in spring counter-balance which can be turned on-off and is occasionally useful.

Abstract / Re: Fun with fire
« on: February 26, 2013, 10:12:43 PM »
nice image

... but why were you using EOS Utility to trigger that?
no standard remote cable release?..

I'd think the utility and computer might make for some inconsistent delays to estimate.

Canon General / Re: How well do you see color?
« on: February 26, 2013, 02:12:43 AM »
perfect score here too, not bad for a 50-something past his bedtime.  ;D
That was almost fun.
Should be another score for speed.
That was cherry-pie-easy on my 27" iMac's IPS panel using custom profile done without color tools like they're trying to sell.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: How Do You Clean your sensor? And how often?
« on: February 24, 2013, 03:22:05 AM »
Rocket blower is a good product but not the best for cleaning sensors.
Some of them seem to have a bit of the mold-release wax left inside. It can spall off and get blasted at high speed against your sensor where it'll stick like gaucamole to flannel.  The more energetically you use this blower, the more likely you are to remove dust but end up with many more little waxy particles in their place.  The darn thing's caused me all kinds of grief over the years when I didn't have any other options on hand.  I try to only use it for cleaning external areas or anything BUT the sensor.

I've since purchased the Visible Dust Zeeion blower but have yet to put it to the test.  I like that it actually filters the air coming in and leaving the bulb and uses a one-way-valve to maintain the cleanest airflow possible to the nozzle.  Glad they built it cuz I was about to make something like it - but a lot less portable.

for wet-cleaning sensors on cameras I don't care much about, like the used Rebels I kick around for rough work, I dry clean with a blower and then have gotten away with using cotton swabs on the stickier particles followed by a wet cleaning.  I've even used non-streak window cleaner on one that looked like someone had sneezed on it, cleaned it up good but I don't recommend you use these cheapskate wet-cleaning methods on cameras you spend a lot of money on.  There are plenty of decent wet-clean products and systems out there.

To avoid cleaning in the first place, I buy a camera, put it on the back of a lens and leave it there, used consumer cameras are cheaper than lenses and often work well enough for most infrequent shoots to just leave them there.  ;D  They're optically functional dust-caps.

Oddly enough ..
I just replace it with one of those Nikon/Sony sensors ;)
.. My nikons don't show dust shadows as bad as my canons - maybe the AA filter is a little farther away from the sensor so casts a less contrasty shadow?..

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Nikon 7100 has been anounced
« on: February 22, 2013, 01:36:24 AM »
In fact, because of Canon's market share and installed base they could quite easily remain one step behind the industry state-of-the-art in sensor technology and STILL maintain their position -- until and unless that gap truly and actually results in better photos, not just better specs,  coming from the competition.

That's true, they're darn near a Juggernaut.
And all the gear these days is so good that no one bit of kit is going to stand out to such an extent that it makes the competition irrelevant.
It's only a few of us (vocal minority types) who prefer some of the technical advantages offered by the competition enough to add them to our inventory.  Some of Nikon's and Pentax's gear makes my life a little easier vs using Canon.  Altho it's unlikely we hold much sway with the likes of Canon; they're still making a (lot) of money doing things the way they've always done.
The competition had to improve substantially just to get noticed, IMO. I think they've accomplished this.  Maybe they even improved their market share slightly.
But that consumer base is an important segment and I still don't see how that fight's going to change any.
I've heard more than one consumer type photog tell me that they've heard recent Nikon cameras are technically better but it didn't matter enough to them to buy one, their first SLR was a Rebel.  And they liked it.  And if any of them upgrade, they're likely to stay with what they know.
I think it takes more than just cash to switch to or add another system.  It takes a degree of courage and determination.  There's more learning to do, more things to remember.  That sounds like work and we can predict what most people think of that.

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Samyang 24mm f/3.5 Tilt-Shift Announced
« on: February 19, 2013, 03:21:03 PM »
now available for pre-order from B&H in Sony, Nikon, Canon mount.

read somewhere else it's an expected March delivery

EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS 7D Mark II Spec List [CR2]
« on: February 19, 2013, 01:25:57 PM »
If it had the sensor quality of at least a Nikon 3200 and some revolutionary new AF system that would drastically reduce my f/1.8 lowlight misses, I would consider it.

Canon's new APS-C flagship better have at least the sensor performance of their main competitor's cheapest, entry-level, base camera.
Oh, if only they could...  :(

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Better Dynamic Range in a Camera
« on: February 18, 2013, 11:59:18 PM »
.. what's missing to get a photograph to have all the dynamic ranges I see with my eyes.
Is it impossible to translate it to a photograph?
Does it take a combination of photos to get a photo to resemble that?
Current print and display methods cannot replicate the wide dynamic range of many scenes, especially sunlit ones.  So it is essentially correct to say that it IS impossible to translate 20 stops worth of DR into a photograph...  UNLESS you compress the photographed image to fit within the range of the final presentation medium.  That can look flat and dull if not done correctly.  It can look artificial and "painterly" even when it is done correctly altho that's likely when it's a bit overdone.  This can be a very subjective method and worth experimenting with to see if it fits your tastes.
However, such methods are about the only options when you can't stick around to wait for golden hour outdoors and you aren't carrying a bunch of lighting equipment with you.  Otherwise, controlling the light is the main method photographers have used for over a century to lighten the dark areas and otherwise reduce the DR of an image BEFORE capturing it with a camera.  Properly lit images can look far more appealing than trying to replicate this effect in post processing.   However, controlled lighting is not always an option and the use of software and a good quality raw file are the next option to use.
Adobe's Lightroom is a great way to experiment with your raw files.  It can lighten shadows and apply digital gradient filters very easily and spares you from becoming a Photoshop pro if you don't have the time or money to invest in it.

There's at least one section here devoted to HDR, tho not necessarily the photo-realistic kind.  Look around and explore the subject a bit, there's quite a few ways to approach this.  some may be more suitable or appealing to you than others.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Better Dynamic Range in a Camera
« on: February 18, 2013, 02:33:23 PM »
Our eyes cannot accommodate the entire wide DR a sunlit outdoor scene may provide, but they can, within limits, adapt to the local brightness of the area we may look at, in which case we can then perceive a somewhat wider DR.

When capturing this scene and preparing it for print or display, the limitations of the presentation medium require compressing the DR and performing localized contrast enhancement to provide the viewer with a semblance of the perception they may have if they were viewing the actual scene.

How much of this gets done depends on a number of factors.  The size of the final print or display, the content of the image, the type of scene, and the artist's intent, are amongst the primary factors.
E.G.  If the bright landscape included a small cave entrance in the distance, we'd never be able to adapt our eyes to see what's inside that cave, even if the camera could.  So making those deep shadows more visible would be unnatural.  But if we were much closer to it, so that if we were to look at the cave entrance, possibly while shielding our eyes from the ambient glare, we may be able to make out some of the shadow detail.  Therefore it's not unreasonable to tone such an image to display that way.
It's all very subjective but HDR and tone-mapping and other effects CAN be applied judiciously to create a pleasing and still somewhat photo-realistic image.

see my samples, near the middle of this page, for a somewhat photo-realistic manner;topic=8105.0;attach=23647;image;topic=8105.0;attach=23646;image

This isn't the best example but it presents another example of as-shot to tone-mapped.  This one's overdone for emphasis, posted near the bottom of this page:;topic=8065.0;attach=22981;image;topic=8065.0;attach=22980;image

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Better Dynamic Range in a Camera
« on: February 18, 2013, 12:23:44 PM »
Improving DR to 20 stops, in a camera that would sell to the public, is still not there yet.

DR and resolution are somewhat mutually exclusive altho recent advances in per-pixel performance are making measurable improvements.  e.g.  Toshiba-made sensor in D5200 has 24MP vs the 16MP in the D5100 and yet the d5200 is showing the same DR, per-pixel, as the d5100.

if the resolution had not increased by 50%, the DR could possibly have increased by 50% instead.

Since this type of sensor is already way ahead in the DR spec, the mfr has the option of increasing resolution while maintaining class-leading DR.  And more MP printed on the box is a great marketing tool.

And yes, for artistic reasons, it's always better to have more of everything captured so that you can later choose how you want to present it by altering it to your tastes.

So for now, if you want to capture the most DR, use the best tool for the job and then you still have the option of exposure bracketing and stacking those images in software, whenever that's a viable option.
I personally don't care to stack bracketed exposures.  I find i can get a photo-realistic HDR-toned image with a single shot from a very clean camera (like most current Nikon or Pentax bodies) with lots of DR.  Just expose to maintain the hilite levels you want to keep and then recurve everything below it to your tastes, if that's your thing.
Some photographers really do not seem to like presenting images like this so it can be a point of strong contention.

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