September 20, 2014, 02:06:02 PM

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Messages - clicstudio

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1
EOS Bodies / Canon needs it...
« on: September 18, 2014, 11:36:14 AM »
Even phones have 40+ MP cameras.
Even if u don't like it, big MP are a necessity.
Hasselblad woudn't sell as many medium formats if they were 20mp.
I don't get it. Real pros want more resolution.
Even at $8000 it would be a steal compared to $25000 on medium format.
Bigger and more is always better.
Look at the new iPhone 6. 4 million preorders on the first night.
Why they stuck with 8MP camera? It's ridiculous to me.
Canon needs to step it up and crown themselves as the best camera makers in the world.
If They can, They should.

2
Software & Accessories / Re: Shuttercount Now Available for Windows
« on: August 28, 2014, 11:35:42 PM »
I can already see the shutter count on my 1DX on the camera itself...
Unfortunately I have over 250,000...  :o

3
1D X Sample Images / DYNAMIC RANGE
« on: July 31, 2014, 10:15:52 AM »
The only major difference between a $300, 18 megapixel Point and Shoot and the 1DX is the sensor quality but the DR is almost the same.
For a $7000 camera, the DR should be closer to the human eye.
It makes no sense that Canon and other companies are going with huge megapixels while letting the DR stay at around 12 stops.
I read the New Nikon D8100 seems to have a DR of 15 or so.
That's the way to go in my opinion.
That's what I would like. Oh, and a 4" screen too  ::)

4
I've been asking the same question for years. It's funny that I was just about to start a thread bragging about the amazing HDR capabilities of the 5DIII…

I did a furniture shoot yesterday. I didn't take my 1DX. Instead I took my friend's 5DIII because it has in-camera HDR which WORKS… Unfortunately, this only works with a tripod. Since the camera takes 3 images and then combines them into one. Also, there is a little bit of cropping on the final image, so u always have to frame wider...

I also wish for the day my camera can see what my eyes see. Even the most expensive cameras can't capture a perfect sunset or a backlit portrait without a lot of tweaking…

Magic Lantern has a hack for the 5D and I think 7D that enhances the DR but it makes the image noisy.
My suggestion? Dual or triple Sensors. One for highlights and one for Shadows.

IF one sensor could be calibrated to "see" only the top range of light and the other the bottom, it could work…

I attached one image of yesterday's shoot. Taken with available light only… This photo would be IMPOSSIBLE with my 1DX. I am very impressed with it and it looks great. Check out the white curtain. U can see the trees outside and not a washed out 100% white curtain. and the detail of the orchids against the backlit. Also, no noise or distortion.
So, to the OP, get a 5DIII and a tripod and it will change the way u see things…

Technical info: 5DIII, Canon 24-70 F2.8L II,  ISO 320, 28mm, F8.0, 1/20

 :)

Happy Shooting.

5
Lenses / Re: Polarizing Filter to reduce light advice.
« on: May 22, 2014, 02:38:28 PM »
Hi I shoot outside a lot, and since my Einstein Flashes can't sync over 1/320, I usually take my Canon 600EX Flash with me.
Unfortunately, even with the built in diffuser, the shadows are harsh. And with a Gary Fong Diffuser, which softens the shadows a lot, the flash loses output so it has to be set at a stronger level, therefore taking longer to recycle.
Another reason I like the on board flash is the High-speed sync, so I can shoot at F2.8 and not worry about shutter speed.
I want to know if there is a filter that will help me keep sync speeds under 1/320 and still shoot at F2.8 on bright sun light.
Basically, sunglasses for my Canon 24-70 II :)
Thanx for your help.

Pat
BL beat me to it, but as he says, what you're looking for is a plain old ND filter to "overpower the sun".  A polarizer can be used, but can do quirky and unflattering things to skintones and generally don't cut enough light.  Depending on the ambient light, you'll need a ND 0.9 or stronger filter to keep the shutter below 1/320s although you should really be shooting at 1/250s which is the 1D X's sync speed.  You'll need the Einsteins with the ND filter on unless you have multiple 600EXs.

Also, generally speaking, the best way to shoot outdoors with a speedlite is to put your subject in full shadow (either open shade or with the sun behind them causing a solid shadow on their face) and then use a un-diffused flash in Av mode with high-speed sync so the camera will meter it as a fill flash.  That or use reflectors to fill in the shadows like I did with this shot with nothing more than a 4' rectangular reflector.  The sun provided a hair light, the reflector served as the main/accent light, and the open shade was the fill.  A set of lights would have produced better results, but sometimes simpler is better.


Thanx. Cool shot. I think I will get this one.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/821128-REG/Tiffen_82VND_82mm_Variable_Neutral_Density.html

What do u think?

6
Lenses / Re: Polarizing Filter to reduce light advice.
« on: May 22, 2014, 02:37:37 PM »
You want a Neutral Density filter to cut down the light transmission so you can drop your shutter speeds to match your X-Sync.

When I use a 3stop ND, I can typically shoot at f/2 @ 1/250 outdoors on a sunny day so I don't have to use high speed sync.

A variable ND works great, but can get pricey.
Hi, thanx for your reply. That's what I need.   :)
What do u think of this one?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/821128-REG/Tiffen_82VND_82mm_Variable_Neutral_Density.html


7
Lenses / Polarizing Filter to reduce light advice.
« on: May 22, 2014, 12:24:13 PM »
Hi I shoot outside a lot, and since my Einstein Flashes can't sync over 1/320, I usually take my Canon 600EX Flash with me.
Unfortunately, even with the built in diffuser, the shadows are harsh. And with a Gary Fong Diffuser, which softens the shadows a lot, the flash loses output so it has to be set at a stronger level, therefore taking longer to recycle.
Another reason I like the on board flash is the High-speed sync, so I can shoot at F2.8 and not worry about shutter speed.
I want to know if there is a filter that will help me keep sync speeds under 1/320 and still shoot at F2.8 on bright sun light.
Basically, sunglasses for my Canon 24-70 II :)
Thanx for your help.

Pat


8
Pricewatch Deals / Re: BEWARE LEXAR FAIL!
« on: March 29, 2014, 10:50:10 AM »
I had 2 Lexar 1000X Professional CF cards literally die on me. One time after taking 500 irreplaceable
vacation photos and the second time after 2 hours of a paid shoot which I had to restart completely.
I went back to Sandisk Extreme Pro 1066X which hasn't failed me in 13 years.
Save yourself a headache and don't buy Lexar.

It's not an Anecdote. It's a fact. 2 cards from different batches failed. Also your beloved transcend also failed me.
You buy cheap, you get cheap.
And exactly how do you test a CF card thoroughly? There is no way.
The testing should be done at the factory. It's called quality control.  I use the card normally and I perform 3 formats before working and you never know when the card is going to fail. There is no warning.
None of the software I have was able to see the cards so there was no way to recover any data.
At one time I was using 2 simultaneous cards just in case but it slows the çamera down so finally sandisk came out with a 1066x and now I have no problem.

9
Pricewatch Deals / BEWARE LEXAR FAIL!
« on: March 28, 2014, 12:38:57 PM »
I had 2 Lexar 1000X Professional CF cards literally die on me. One time after taking 500 irreplaceable
vacation photos and the second time after 2 hours of a paid shoot which I had to restart completely.
I went back to Sandisk Extreme Pro 1066X which hasn't failed me in 13 years.
Save yourself a headache and don't buy Lexar.

10
Animal Kingdom / Seagulls in Miami
« on: March 20, 2014, 11:49:57 AM »
Shooting a model on the beach… So, I took a few shots for fun…
All you need is a few pieces of bread and in seconds you have dozens of Seagulls fighting over it. They get so close, you can almost hand feed them :D

Canon 1Dx, Canon 24-70 F2.8L II, ISO 100, F3.2, 1/2000


11
Pricewatch Deals / Preordered The powershot sx700 hs
« on: February 13, 2014, 10:17:45 AM »
 I already own the 280sx hs with a 20x optical zoom.
It's an amazing little camera with full manual controls.
I take it to music concerts and car races. I wouldn't be able to get the shots I get without the zoom.
And I can transfer the photos straight to my iPhone or
iPad.
Now at 30x... Whoa! Can't wait!

12
Pricewatch Deals / Preordered The powershot
« on: February 13, 2014, 10:14:00 AM »
D

13
Lenses / Re: Will a 70-200 f2.8 (not mk2 or is) change my life?
« on: December 24, 2013, 07:12:22 PM »
No, but the II might  :P

14
Lenses / Re: Canon 24-105 vs canon 24-70 ii
« on: December 24, 2013, 07:10:12 PM »
There is simply no better lens than the 24-70 II.
It matches most primes in quality and in one package.
It's the ONLY lens I own. Coupled to my 1DX, I have to say I am seeing the best output ever.
The 24-105 has a little more range but I rented one for a week and was very very disappointed. Too many missed focus photos and not the sharpest.
I also rented a 50mm 1.2L, a 135 2.0L, a 35mm 1.8 and nothing could replace my 24-70.
The only other lens I would consider is the 70-200 F2.8L II which I used and absolutely loved. But I have no need for it.
My only complain about the 24-70 2.8L II vs the old 24-70 is the minimum focusing distance. It was shorter before.

15
Lenses / Re: Review: Zeiss 50mm f/2.0 Makro-Planar T* ZE
« on: December 24, 2013, 07:04:12 PM »
Excuse my ignorance but what is the point of a 2.0 lens for low light situations when you can't have Auto Focus?
Unless you do strictly video, I don't get it…  :-\

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