Hmm, what's wrong with the LP-E6 battery? It was kept for the 5DIII. While I doubt I will buy a 7DII, if I were too, that would be a pain - given a current collection of 8 LP-E6s, used across 3 bodies.
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Okay..... NOW I want an eos m. Imagine it on a flycam nano for b-roll work, lol.Hackers are helping to sell more cameras!
Available right now...pre-owned on eBay.
Nothing wrong with a well looked after, low-mileage 5D or 5DII.
But new? It will happen. Probably not 2013, 2014 or even 2015. If you have a budget limit of $1k and have a definite need for FF, it's a pre-owned body for you.
QuoteGPS coordinates are 3 km off
This could come in really handy, when you forget you have it and take pics of that gf your wife doesn't know about!
Getting back to the snap-happy soldiers who cost the US taxpayer lots of money, back in 2007 at a military base in Iraq, they took delivery of some AH-64 Apache helicopters. These are not cheap choppers. In 2012, the price of a brand-new one was $38 million. The soldiers proudly took pictures of their new attack helicopters, and then uploaded them onto the web. Almost certainly, the soldiers did not realise that geo-location tags were embedded in those photographs.
According to Steve Warren, a US Army Manoeuvre Centre Of Excellence intelligence officer, "the enemy was able to determine the exact location of the helicopters inside the compound and conduct a mortar attack, destroying four of the AH-64 Apache".
So, i've been bored at work today, reading stuff about lenses (like every other day, really), and found some more interesting information on the problems on the angle of incidence.
I've come across this article. It's a fairly long-winded history of wide-angle lenses from Zeiss. But read page 12 in particular (you can just skip straight there if you know the difference between a Distagon and Biogon).
The long and short of it is this:
Take a regular wide-angle lens for an SLR, FF or APS-C, the light waves are going to hit the sensor a lot closer to orthogonal (that's a right angle, fyi).
Reduce this down into a mirrorless design, the lenses will be smaller, because there's no mirror in the way, right?
Well, maybe. If you want a smaller lens to put on your thinner FF mirrorless body, it's not as easy as just reusing the same sensor from your 5D. I already knew that leica had some fancy micro-lens arrays going on in front of their sensors. But according to this article, you also need a much much thinner IR Filter (and AA filter, and bayer array, and protective glass) in front of your sensor. That's probably why leica 'forgot' to put in the IR filter on their first M8. That's also probably why Leica has no AA filter. It's not for better IQ like it is in the D800E, it's because there can't be one. Well, OK, there can, but you're going to have to pay for it. (maybe this also explains that $3000 Sony FF P&S? Any cheaper and it'd be huge).
Leave in the regular-sized IR filter, bayer array, protective glass from your 5D, put it into a thin mirrorless body, with a thin pancake wide-angle lens? Your corners will not only look horrid, but you introduce field-curvature too.
So, at the end of the day, what can you expect?
You'll get an FF mirrorless eventually, but it's either going to be the size of the 5D3 (and the lenses aren't going to be any smaller either), or it'll be the cost of the 5D3, or it'll have so bad corner performance that it may as well be APS-C anyway.
I wouldn't bother with a 7D or 60D, given that you have the T2i/550D, which has essentially the same sensor - so from a point of view of IQ, you don't get any improvement. The only reason to move to a 7D is if you need environmental sealing, better AF or more fps.
... and better usability (lcd display, back wheel, more firmware features) which is a big plus - I wouldn't want to go below a 60d. But of course this is a bad time to get the 18mp sensor - the old 18mp cameras will be cheaper after the rumored 7d2 update.
70-200 2.8 IS
I don't get why people are afraid of the weight. I carry the 200 F2 around all day and I'm not a big guy (65 kg, 140 pounds?). I own both and the versatility of the 70-200 is awesome for weddings. And if you have the 135 + 70-200 F4 in your bag, then it's the same weight as the 2.8 but you don't have to change lenses.
QuoteFor family pictures, 5D2 or 6D(if you're willing to wait) might be enough. That way, you can afford a more flexible lens (24-105 or 24-70 mark 1) and a flash with some diffuser. I think having better lenses is the better way of doing it. You won't be getting your nice DOF with just 40mm. 40mm for an FF is too short to get some DOF.
Note: You can also retain your T2i or upgrade to 7D/60D and get a 50mm F1.4 or 85 F1.8 or their faster versions to get that nicer DOF than your present equipment.
I already have the 85 f1.8 and 70-200 f4. My main concern is losing the wide end, the 40 f2.8 would fit that role. Another advantage of going FF would be that getting the 135 f2 for portraits would actually make sense, as right now with a crop it would just be too long for what I would want.
So what, Aussie websites try to emulate the experiences of shopping online that the rest of the world have done for years?
But they forget the most important part being the lower prices?
Sounds typical to me.
*wanders back to Adorama and B+H*
I'm sure this has been covered a dozen times before
Indeed ... but I can understand that these decisions are not easy so asking again is tempting :->
Except for absolutely stellar tele primes extenders are for occasional use and not for "always on" because they heavily depend on the iq of the base lens - the 100-400L isn't a promising choice for this and it'll be f8 which has af problems (I can tell, I've got the 70-300L which is sharper). That's why most budget wildlife shooters who want tracking and fast fps are on the 7d - the alternative is about $5000-$10000 more.
Upgrading from the 550d->7d with the same sensor also doesn't seem that smart to me unless you get a very good deal ... better wait for the 7d2 or 70d with probably a better sensor that'll solve your problem.
Btw: You should get a Kenko 1.4x anyway for even on crop, it's very nice on the macro :-)