f/4.0 1/1250 iso 1250
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f/4.0 1/1250 iso 1250
600mm f/6.3 1/1000 iso 800 heavy crop I don't like to shoot this slow. it was early & a over cast day
and thanks guys glad you like my pets
shot this 2/15/13
It's not the body. And the problems the body has aren't ones that the 40D will necessarily solve.+1
My 2 cents.
Get a x0D series for the better construction, better viewfinder, better ergonomics and better control.
If you are otherwise happy with your T1i then here's a couple of things to try first.
1: On all EOS cameras the centre AF point has the best performance. Your T1i is no exception, as it's the only cross point. Go into P Tv Av or M. Select the centre AF spot as your only active point.
2: Ai Servo has a better chance of getting the action shot that one shot AF. One Shot AF will actually prevent you taking a shot, unless the camera thinks it is in focus. This will make your moderately fast camera much slower, and the same would be true of a 40D or 7D or 1D. So go to tracking AF (Ai Servo) learn to track for a few seconds, burst burst burst, track for a few seconds, burst burst burst.
3: Consider your lenses. Dark non-constant max aperture lenses are going to really hinder your AF system. The centre AF spot becomes even more sensitive with lenses brighter than f2.8. Spend some money on a bright USM lens. The 50mm f1.4 USM or 85mm f1.8 USM will let in loads of light and really boost your AF performance. And if your AF is fast, your frame rate is up! You'll get the benefit no matter your shooting aperture. If you put slow lenses on any body, you are going to struggle. If you are shooting action, you should be using fast lenses regardless of the body.
4: Consider your format. Where are these pictures going to end up? Are they going to be A2 posters? Or 9x6 prints? Do you really need to shoot RAW? JPEGs, particularly smaller JPEGs without in camera effects, will get the most out of your cameras buffer depth. RAW is a killer, and max resolution is often overkill.
5: Memory card speed. When your 500D came out memory cards were much more expensive. Treat yourself to a class 10 card, if you haven't got one already. This won't make your camera physically faster, but it will reduce buffer bottlenecks when you are piling on the frames.
So yes, there are reasons to buy a better body, but I don't think a 40D is the answer to your problems.
Brighter glass will probably be more effective, as will a look at your technique and settings.
I used a 400D for a few years and it was a different camera with bright glass on it. Centre spot AF. Ai Servo mode. Bright USM glass, faster card. Exactly the same advice I would give to a 40D user.
In other words, Canon will soon have 3 dedicated cinema bodies in the market, but still no dedicated landscape / studio body?.. Yawn. This is just another sign that they shifting away from stills, and more towards video.+1 on the 14-24L glass
How about announcing the 14-24L, or at least letting us know if there is a big MP body coming this year or the next?
5D3X, 5D4 or whatever the name is. I need it naow!!
I am a hobbyist and always take special care not to interrupt the paid pro-photographer at an event. However, sometimes I do utilize my 6-3 frame to literally shoot over the paid photographer's shoulder - Of course I take the trouble to speak to them beforehand informing them of what I'm going to do and ask them whether it distracts them - not too many rake up a fuss as long as you are not (i) obstructing their view; (ii) ending up of getting involved in changing the composition of a shot
LOL. I actually think I was one of the annoying guests/photographers at my cousins wedding last December. I shoot weddings every once in a while. for my cousin... of course I'm gonna take pictures. The paid photographer was most definitely annoyed by all the other guests with DSLRs. (I was not the only one). The MC even made an announcement over the PA for everyone to "not to get in the way of the professional photographer".... it (the announcement) was pretty f'n douchey if you ask me.+1
To be honest, you get no sympathy from me. When I'm at a wedding gig, I've just learned to deal with others who own cameras. It doesn't annoy me. You work around it. Hell, take a picture of them taking a picture. Get the subjects attention if they're trying to figure out which camera to look at. It's just gonna happen....it'll get worse for you if you don't change your attitude.
remember: a reasonable man adapts to his environment. an unreasonable man will expect his environment to adapt to him.... think about it
btw, I saw the guys work afterwards. it was "aight"... seems to me, the photographers who are having trouble getting the job done "because guests are in the way" are the same ones who need a little more practice.
You really need to think about your need for high ISO vs your need for FPS.+1
I have a friend who has the 1DX and 5D Mark III and he won't touch sports with the 5D Mark III.
You may want to consider saving a bit and getting the 1D X or waiting to see if announcement about the 7D Mark II comes out.
The 1D Mark IV does have a lot of benefits over the 5D Mark III.
How important is weather sealing and FPS to you?
To everyone: AWESOME THREAD and POSTS! Best, ever.+1 Thank you for recommending the Black Rapid RS-7 strap. I learn something new here all the time. I currently have the Crumpler The Industry Disgrace on my 5D Mark II (I had to get rid of that dreaded Canon one) but will have the Black Rapid on my future 1 DX.
To the original poster: RSA for 8 weeks! I wish I was going with you. As for your camera woes, do what you feel comfortable with. If the 5D3 feels overkill, it might just be. Someone else suggested the 7D as an alternative, I can definitely recommend that. The 7D with nice glass is an awesome device.
The 650D however, a good camera, but the sealing is not quite on par with the 7D or the 5D3, and where you're going I would say that should be part of your decision.
Also, another hint, whichever camera you do eventually stick with, get rid of the 'steal me!' Canon neck-strap. Plus the comfort factor using a Black Rapid RS-7 or Sunsniper shoulder strap cannot be underestimated when walking around with the camera for long periods of time.
Good luck with your trip and please, post some pics for us when you get back.
basically having a wide aperture available is like a condom+1
its better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it
f2.8 gives much nicer shallow depth of field shots than f4 but probably both eyes will be in focus the one eye in focus thing is more the domain of fast primes
typically at weddings I'll either be shooting my 85 at f2 maybe f2.8 for more people in the shot and occassionally f4 or 5.6 but really i use this lens for portraits and couple shots
I use this lens more now than i do my 70-200 f2.8 since at f2 its sharper than even the 70-200 is at f2.8
I'll shoot the 70-200 at all sorts of apertures depending on the shot.
for the bride and groom walking down the isle its much better to stop down and play it safe
since using servo and how fast it all goes off there isn't alot of time to mess around and a redo isnt an option
the 16-35 i'll shoot at everything from f2.8 to f11 depending on the shot having 2.8 on this lens is a godsend with the 5Dmk3 for receptions (same goes for walking down the isle shots with this lens, stopped down is better) and its a fantastically fast focuser in low light, really really impressive on the 5Dmk3.
When your subject is moving and/or there is poor available light, that's when you'll notice more of a difference...though, it still is just a small amount+1
But you're right, for the cost difference, you would think that the 5d3 images would be way better...but they aren't....just slightly.
The lens you use plays an important part in the equation...you didn't mention what lens you used.