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Messages - THX723

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EOS Bodies / Re: 5D3 lens correction profiles - only jpg?
« on: November 19, 2012, 07:21:42 PM »
Or in other words, does the lens correction do ANYTHING if i only shoot in raw?

In terms of the images themselves, all it does is set flags in the metadata that DPP recognizes, and it would then apply those corrections on your computer.  If you use another RAW converter, then the in-camera corrections will not do anything to the RAW image.  They will be applied to the JPG preview image that's embedded in the RAW file, though, and it's that JPG that you see during image review on the camera (and also the histogram data, although lens corrections shouldn't affect that, Picture Style, ALO, etc., do).

I tried to verify that DPP made the corrections based on flagged settings, but could not confirm that with my 5D MK III.  Corrections were turned on in camera, but DPP did not apply the corrections to the raw files.
I manually applied them, and then the size of the cr2 file more than doubled after I saved it.
The corrections were applied to jpg out of camera images without any noticible increase in file size.
Two different things being discussed and need further clarification ...

1. Basic lens correction
Corrects for vignetting and chromatic aberration. Supported in-camera for JPEG or through DPP software as post. The same corrected JPEG is also embedded to RAW, if shooting in that mode, as well as being flagged.

2. Digital Lens Optimizer (DLO)
Advanced correction using sophisticated reverse optics transfer algorithm. Supported through post-processing using DPP software and only compatible with RAW files (no JPEG). Optimization data is non-destructive and appended to the original RAW file, which may more than double in size. For that reason, it is transparent to third-party RAW processors (e.g. Adobe Light Room).

Note, it's not possible to use both 1 and 2. The two are mutually exclusive.

OP and Neuro was referring to #1.

Politics and conspiracy theories aside ...
It is entirely possible the exclusion (at least for now) of the AI-servo AF illumination for 5D3 may be a technical one.

I trust we all understood why AF illumination was avoided in the first place -- interference with the on-board metering system. It was due to popular demand that Canon have since come up with a clever, although quirky, work around with the 1D X. Perhaps it is the lack of an RGB metering system that precluded the same work around from working reliably, if at all, on the 5D3 (and 7D too should they decide to). The red RGB channel could have provided the necessary reference feedback to actively tune out the LED illumination interference through software. This magic trickery may not be feasible with the color-blind 5D3/7D metering sensor.

Wait what? Can someone elaborate on this? Does this mean the 5d3 doesn't spot meter exposure with points other than the center?

The reason why im concerned is because alot of my shots with the 5d3 always end up underexposed even though the on camera light meter says its spot on.

Correct. 5D3 only meters from the center, independent of the selected AF point.

Your LR settings are indeed a issue.  Reset them to zero.  If you have LR set to apply a ton of sharpening on inport, reset it to apply just a little, or none at all depending on the ISO.
So I was able to verify that sharpening was deactivated completely (along with everything else). Still getting the black halo ...

Here's the crop ...

Edit: Upon a bit more investigation, this black halo is NOT present when using DPP. Might this be related to Lightroom 4? Will have to go back and double check my LR4 settings and report back.

Curiously enough, I did come across this black halo/ring phenomenal about a month ago. It was a night shot of the city and all around the bright city lights where these mysterious black rings. It was shot in RAW. No post processing. I will post the photo after I get home tonight.

I was a bit concerned initially (5D2 black dots?), but after a hasty Google search turned up nothing, I thought pleading ignorance would be the better part of valor. The fact is this was the first run-in after thousands of pictures taken (since 1st batch release); I brushed it off and never thought of it since.

Lenses / Re: 70-200mm f2.8 to 70-200mm f2.8 IS II worth it?
« on: June 28, 2012, 09:37:38 PM »
Has anybody had much experience with the 70-200mm f2.8 IS II with the 2x Extender III? I think the combination is sharp enough for me but I'd like to know what people think of the AF speed - as it will be reduced. Can it still track motor sports etc even if it takes a little longer to get the initial lock on? I hear it's faster AF than the Extender II but I've not used either. I may rent before I buy but I'd like to hear your take on the subject.
I shoot motorsports with that very combo: 70-200 f2.8L II + 2x TC III. It is definitely up to the task. There is a perceptible drop in AF speed as well as IQ, but still very acceptable. The combined mass will get to you, if you plan on free-holding (w.o. monopod/tripod). The 100-400 is much better in that respect. However the 70-200/2x is far more versatile w. it's 70-200/140-400 dual role.

EOS Bodies / Re: F1 Silverstone - advice with the 5D MkIII AF
« on: June 22, 2012, 11:00:46 PM »
Here's a panning shot of Vettel.

EOS Bodies / Re: F1 Silverstone - advice with the 5D MkIII AF
« on: June 22, 2012, 10:53:07 PM »
 :) So happens I just came back from the Canadian F1 Grand Prix a couple weekends ago. Different tracks may have different rules, so please keep that in mind.

Some pointers for you:

We didn't have any issues entering, while proudly displaying our white giants: EF100-400, EF70-200 + 2x, and others in the bag. We also had with us monopods. Generally there's a tripod restriction, at least on race day, so we didn't tempt fate there nor did we care to lug any around.

Friday (practice)
This will be your best day to capture some great shots. Most people will not be in attendance, so you'll have plenty of room to maneuver and situate on the stand. Feel free to pan those long lenses with little risk of obstruction. Get the monopod out too.

Saturday (qualify)
Depending on the location of your grand stand (by popularity), it will be a fair day to shoot. It is likely to get really crowded before F1 qualifying session begins, making you realize just how good you had it the day before. So be ready for that.

Sunday (race)
Worse day to shoot. For one, you want to actually be watching the race not focusing on shooting. It will be insanely crowded (shoulder to shoulder). Panning shots less likely to pull off, due to the lack of clearance. We had a block of 5 seats reserved, so it was still manageable, but hardly ideal. I would not be comfortable waving the long lens, if sat right next to a stranger, merely out of respect.

I would highly recommend the use of monopod if you are looking to greatly increase your keeper rate for panning shots @ >200mm, although I really despite using one.

I personally used the 100-400 on day 1, 70-200+2x on day 2, and 70-200 on race day. If I had to choose only one, it'd been the 100-400L for the size (collapsible) and weight. The 70-200 (2.8L II) + 2x TC III combo felt like an anvil after a short time free-holding (no monopod). The AF performance and picture quality between the two 400mm setups were very comparable. Clearly the 200mm by itself is superior to either (AF & IQ), but at the expense of the extra reach.

AI-Servo mode is a no brainer for this type of shooting. My preference is to shoot using Zone AF (5th out of the 6 available modes) and set centered. Once locked on, 5D3 would pick up any slacks by actively select any of the 8 adjacent points within the zone. The zone is tight enough to not allowed focus to wonder off the intended subject. Works like a charm! This new AF system is really quite amazing. Even better than the 7D, that I had a while back. 5D2 ... not even in the same league.

I further tweaked the AF configuration as follows:

Tracking sensitivity = -1 (minimizes interference from fences, walls, poles, other cars, and people)
Acceleration/deceleration tracking =  0
AF point auto switching = 0 (minimizes unintended focus shift)

AI-Servo 1st Image Priority = focus biased
AI-Servo 2nd Image Priority = focus biased

You might tweak with them differently to suit your own shooting style.
So that's it for now. Let me know if you have any more questions. Enjoy Silverstone. It is a great track. Hoping Vettel wins!  ;D

Doesn't Nikon use the same transmissive LCD thingy in their viewfinders? They have no issues keeping the AF points lit.
Curiously enough, I thought of the same and wondered why that hasn't been a sticking point with Nikonians or has it?

I do have to agree it would sure be nice to be able to see the AF points in low light conditions. In fact, I thought of it as far back as owning the 7D, now with the 5D3, and just the other day playing with the D800.

Having said that, I do somehow feel you might be missing a really valuable learning experience here. And yes, this is only my personal opinion, but most photographers start out with really basic kit and then explore it until they have worked out the limitations for their needs. I'm not sure going with a full frame MkIII will give you this experience...
The culture of such thinking fascinates me. I sincerely mean no offense with what's to follow. It is not meant to direct at you but a general point to all. So here goes ...

What is the experience lost here? and how would that reflect differently with a Rebel class versus, oh let's just say, top-of-the-line 1D class?

You see, at the end of the day, any camera is simply a camera. That is they take pictures exactly the same way -- through a lens, shutter, and eventually the film/sensor. The ritual of acquiring a photo is also consistent -- point/compose, focus/meter, then shoot away. Yes, the 1D sensor, its magical AF system, its elaborate menus and options make a joke out of the Rebel, yet the fundamentals remain the same. Ya still gotta learn how to compose a great photo. Ya still gotta learn how to focus and hold steady. Ya still gotta learn how to expose optimally. Until there's a major breakthrough in picture taking, there's no learning to wield the extra stops of dynamic range or the ISO sensitivity per se.

Intermission jokes:
"Careful you'll burn yourself if you use all 12 stops of DR!"
"You'll shoot your eye out if you turn up to 12fps too soon!"

Again I defer to my Ferrari analogy posted earlier.
Noob buys a 562hp Ferrari 458 as a 1st car. Ridiculous! The cost of inexperience is likely death. Too much power too little skills.
Noob buys a 1D as 1st camera. Wasteful perhaps. The cost of inexperience here is bad photos, which is just as likely with an inexpensive camera. No harm, no foul.



Having said this, if you can press the shutter half way, and move the joystick to trigger the red illumination and not affect your exposure, I'm not sure why the camera can't do this on it's own without impacting exposure.  :o
I believe what's being asked to implement is to have the focus point remain lit (not momentary blink) throughout tracking. This would surely affect the exposure metering.

Congrats with the fine acquisition.

I'm in the camp of "hey if a noob can afford it then more power to them".
Unlike an automotive purchase where a Ferrari 458 as the very first car would be unwise. The outcome in that case could be a certain death, due to inexperience. In photography, there's no harm or foul in starting out with the best instrument one can afford. At worst, you got yourself some unusable pictures. No worries. Hit delete, learn, and shoot again.

Av mode (aperture priority) will likely be your best friend to start. Acquaint yourself with what aperture priority means. Let the computer worry about iso, exposure, and shutter speed, all the while being aware of what those values were given. They will add to your understanding of how they affect each pictures until eventually you can start playing with those values too (e.g. Manual mode). Even then pros don't always shoot in manual mode too, so don't get caught up with the saying, "you're not a real man until you shoot manual". Rubbish! Having said that, there will be situations in which manual mode is the only way to take the optimal picture.

Most of all, remember to have fun!  :)

Works just fine with the Mk 3.

Btw, I'm blown away by how cheaply RC-6 remote (clearly not genuine Canon) could be found on Amazon/eBay. When I say cheap, I mean about $2-USD! Looks the same and works the same. Good enough for me.

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D3: ISO 160, 320, 640 etc cleanest ISOs?
« on: April 17, 2012, 08:20:37 PM »
Referring to Mr. Claff's Photographic Dynamic Range chart:
(note: select EOS 5D Mk III)

The analysis methodology appears sound imho, however regardless of the absolute accuracy, it is the delta that is of interest  here and with that, it clearly supports the multiples of 160 theory (at least for the 5D Mk3).

Put another way in terms of read noise:

again clearly shows iso160, 320, 640, etc. having the least noise.

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