August 23, 2014, 11:32:50 AM

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Messages - privatebydesign

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Lighting / Re: is a 600rt with a $50 upgrade from the 580 exii?
« on: May 04, 2014, 01:46:50 AM »
I am not convinced with the Rouge "softbox" panel, I seem to like the light and controlability from the naked Flashbender over the not really a softbox softbox.

The XL kit that makes a stripbox looks much more interesting. I have seen some amazing images shot with those.

Lighting / Re: is a 600rt with a $50 upgrade from the 580 exii?
« on: May 04, 2014, 12:53:31 AM »
Just to put a bow on the end of the story... I was able to sell my 580 exii for $322.70 (net after commission).  My final cost on the 600 rt is $377.98... making my total upgrade cost $55.29. 

So if I hate the 600... I'm coming lookin' for ya'll!!! >-|

I think I need a better flash diffuser... or a better assistant.  My flashbender had some harsh t-zones in some of the photos I took today...

Canon flashes hold their value very well, unlike third party flashes. I just sold the last of my 15+ year old 550EX's and got over $170 for them, each, I only paid $299 for them brand new! That works out to less than $10 a year depreciation.

Post the transition problem, I  don't have an issue with the Rouge, but I'd like to see what you are talking about as I haven't really analysed it.

Lighting / Re: small flash for catch light 5m to 20m
« on: May 03, 2014, 10:53:32 PM »
Pulled my 188A out of the bag with my old AE1 and slapped it on the 6D.... works like a charm. no control but throws some light out...

anyways, thanks for all the input, my 90 will arrive any day now....

As a rule, DON'T DO THAT! The 188A is safe, the trigger voltage is only 4.4V, but it is easy to kill a DSLR stone dead by using an incompatible flash, some of them have trigger voltages of >200V, many DSLR's will be damaged using a flash that does that.

I have a 199A and the 533G from my old days and they are both safe too :-).

Lenses / Re: 135L v 85 1.8
« on: May 03, 2014, 08:32:13 PM »
Yet another admission that a £1500 L lens has slow AF>

Sorry but fast AF is paramount , without it a red ring means jack

If i was going down the MF path then i would have already chosen Zeiss

Well that rules out the 24mm TS-E L, and the unmatched 17mm TS-E L.

Lighting / Re: Build quality of Speedlite 600ex-rt; "Lock"?
« on: May 03, 2014, 07:28:53 PM »
I have 4 personal ones but use another few occasionally, and the ST-E3-RT and the YN-E3-RT, I have had no issues with any of the Canon gear, absolutely rock solid and 100% reliable.

If you are in the USA I'd talk nicely to the service center manager, they have a discretionary 10% they can deduct from your total, and their boss has a bit more too.

Canon non-EF Lenses (TS-E, FD, etc.) / Re: Canon TS-E 17mm f/4L
« on: May 02, 2014, 06:48:10 PM »

You need one of these next

Software & Accessories / Re: Canon Utilities and CS6 with 5Dlll
« on: May 02, 2014, 01:47:57 AM »
No, you don't need to.

Some people think you can get fractionally better/different RAW renderings from DPP, but I never found it worth the effort.

The only two things I like about EOS Utility is the Picture Style Editor, if you shoot jpeg it is a must for really dialing in your preferred look, and the actual EOS Utility/WFT Pairing App for remote control when I use a WFT device.

If you don't shoot jpeg, and don't use remote control, I'd skip the bundled software completely.

Another practical tip, rotate the head 90º so it is short edge to the subject then put the modifier on, this means you can go from landscape to portrait with just a 90º turn of the head. Very simple and quick, it is the main reason I don't use a bracket.

In dynamic situations I'll use a 600EX-RT with a Flashbender and an ST-E3-RT and hold the flash away from me, camera in one hand flash in the other, ungainly but gets the separation. You can achieve the same thing with an off camera cord.

As for why the op can't get a catchlight, it is just down to angles, change the angle of your flash head or if you are pointing it up, use the catchlight panel. It has nothing o do with he modifier, just he angles of incidence and reflection.

Well I did try pointing it both up and slightly forward, trying different angles- with the flashbender also tilted up, and slightly forward. It just doesn't seem to reflect enough. I even took a photo of the panel in the mirror with the flash firing and the flashbender clone wasn't lit up as much as I expected (granted, this wasn't very scientifically done).
That's why I am thinking it might be one of two things- I am using TTL- that is probably making the flash power really low. Otherwise, the material isn't reflective enough.
I need to do a bit more experimentation with this. Unfortunately, the eBayers don't sell a  knock-off diffusion panel- I might go a DIY route.

Post the pic to illustrate flash, mod and camera angle, but traditionally ETTL will cut the light very quickly when shooting into a mirror.

I rarely use the "softbox" attachment for my Flashbenders, I find I get nicer light by just curling the top edge towards the subject, the curl is the crucial bit, if you just fire it up you will get nothing. The "best" angle for the modifier would be 45º between the flash and subject, and then you would only get catchlights if you are the same amount lower than the eyes than the flash is higher than the eyes. The size of the cathclight will be small if you are ay distance from your subject, but you should be able to get one.

If I had to get a bracket for events I'd get this not cheap, but if you factor in the camera plate etc not outrageous. It is light, fast, AC compatible, beautifully engineered, well thought out etc.

I just don't get on with brackets.

As for why the op can't get a catchlight, it is just down to angles, change the angle of your flash head or if you are pointing it up, use the catchlight panel. It has nothing o do with he modifier, just he angles of incidence and reflection.

Canon General / Re: My weapons of war.
« on: May 01, 2014, 10:53:31 PM »
Here are two of mine. 20 years apart but they do the same job.

The subject, as you say, will be the same size in the different images.

The perspective will be different in the images, that is the apparent shape of an object will appear more rounded with a shorter focal length and flatter with a longer focal length. This effect of perspective is vastly reduced in macro shooting.

At the same aperture value the different images, if framed the same, will have the same dof.

The most apparent difference between the images will be the background, the longer the focal length the more blurred it will appear, though that is an optical illusion, things in the background will be much bigger and less "busy".


Your original image is not optimally exposed for post processing, it looks like you used a polarizer and under exposed a fair bit. For B&W base shots I'd suggest a more even starting point, it is easy to get the drama in post but impossible to salvage the shadows from such an underexposed image.

I would venture to say the 5D MkIII with WFT would be much more robust than the 6D and EOS Remote.

Certainly I use an early WFT and the results are good, and the connection, when it drops out, automatically reconnects in some modes.

As for USB's, Tether Tools do very long active USB cables that go well over 15'. Here is a 65' model

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