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Topics - jebrady03

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1
EOS Bodies / Time wasted... re: 7D Mark II
« on: September 15, 2014, 11:07:37 AM »
Now that the 7D Mark II has been announced and we know all the specs and pricing, do any of you look back on the countless threads and posts that you read and/or wrote as time wasted?

What could YOU have done with the cumulative minutes, hours, days, or even WEEKS you spent over the last few years reading/writing about what the 7D Mark II was supposed to be, what you thought it should or shouldn't be, what a "serious photographer" (absolute DUMBEST term ever) would require of it, what would cause Canon, Inc to implode immediately if it were, what would cause you to sell all of your gear, swear off photography, and move to Namibia if it were?

Yes, I am fully aware of the irony of this post - no need to point it out.  The purpose of this post is to help us all to remember that whatever we say, whatever we think, whatever we want, shout about, get enraged over, etc., doesn't actually matter.  Companies are going to do what they're going to do without our input and ESPECIALLY without our knowledge.  Let's be honest, if our input mattered, we wouldn't be on this forum - we'd be hanging out with Canon R&D.  So, don't take things so seriously.  Just lighten up and enjoy PHOTOGRAPHY and leave the speculation and bickering to those with nothing better to do.

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EOS Bodies / 7D replacement: What is a "fine-detail" sensor
« on: August 23, 2014, 06:41:39 AM »
Turns out, we already know!  http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/280/28070D135_DL.PDF
Look at the very first sentence under Introduction...

Quote
The EOS 70D (W/N) is a high-performance, digital single-lens reflex camera featuring a fine-detail CMOS sensor with approx. 20.2 effective megapixels...

3
Software & Accessories / Image processor, noise, JPG vs RAW via DPP
« on: August 05, 2013, 12:25:46 AM »
I know that newer/better processors result in less noise when using the same sensor (T3i vs T4i for instance) for JPG shots but what I'm curious to know is - should I get the same results when I take a picture in RAW and process via DPP vs in-camera JPG - WHEN AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF PROCESSING IS APPLIED?

Thanks for any insight!

4
EOS-M / No surprise: EOS M is Amazon top seller
« on: July 18, 2013, 03:19:41 AM »
The EOS M now occupies the number 3 and 9 spots on their best seller list for digital cameras (22mm kit and 18-55mm kit respectively).  The list is updated hourly so by the time you click on the link it could of course, be different.  Here's the list: http://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Electronics-Digital-Cameras/zgbs/electronics/281052

As I said in the subject, it's no surprise.  The value you get for your $300-350 is unmatched!  What I do find interesting is that it says the 22mm kit has been in the top 100 for 34 days - well before the $300 price tag.  The 18-55mm kit has only been in the top 100 for 17 days which aligns with the discounted price.

5
EOS-M / Share your thoughts - M pricing
« on: July 15, 2013, 04:42:51 PM »
I picked up the M and 22mm lens and am interested in also buying the 18-55 and the converter. The prices of both have gone up recently due to demand (expected) and I'm curious to know what everyone thinks about future pricing for those items (short, medium, or long term). They aren't priority purchases for me so I'd like to buy when they're a good value.
Thanks!

6
Lighting / Lighting question
« on: May 04, 2013, 10:58:44 AM »
Does flash with the sun behind the subject look unnatural to anyone else?  For instance, when I see a picture of a bride and groom on the beach and the sun is setting behind them over the water, but the photographer has used flash to illuminate their faces - it just looks really awkward to me.  Am I the only one?

7
Software & Accessories / When and how to use DLO in DPP
« on: April 26, 2013, 12:39:26 PM »
I asked this on another forum and I'm not sure why - it's a general photography forum.  I figure I'm more likely to get responses from a CANON forum about CANON software!  lol  duh...  Anyway...

I've been using DPP as a processor and RAW converter for several years now and decided to start tinkering with the DLO functionality.  My problem is, I don't know WHEN to use it or HOW to use it (properly).

When - if a picture looks really nice and I'm happy with it, can it be even better by applying DLO corrections?  In other words, is this something I should do for every image or just certain images?  And what "certain images" would qualify?

How - when I open up the DLO tool, I have a slider that goes from 1-100.  It's much like sharpening and NR in that it can DEFINITELY be overdone - but because I don't know WHEN it should be done, I'm having a hard time discerning how I should do it - in other words, what's an appropriate amount (1-100) and does that amount change with circumstances?

I've looked in DPP's help topics and there was nothing there to help with my questions above.  I've tried to do a search online and on these forums and I'm either searching inefficiently or the info isn't readily available (I'm guessing the former) so I was hoping that someone with experience using DLO well could chime in with some recommendations and/or some links.

Thanks!

8
Lenses / My review of the 40mm STM
« on: April 21, 2013, 02:10:19 AM »
For $150, just buy it.

/review

I just received mine Friday, unboxed it, screwed it on to my 60D and rushed out the door to pick up my baby girl and then head over to my wife's work outing.  The sun had already set behind the trees at the park (but not set on the horizon) when I snagged this pic (this is literally a snap shot and that's it - didn't have time or space to maneuver for anything more significant as I was SURROUNDED by people behind me and my wife was 2 seconds from handing me my little girl to take part in a 3-legged relay race)

**I just realized upon previewing this post that CR downsizes pics.  So, just copy the url and paste for 1200 pixel wide versions of these pics**



That was shot at f/2.8, 1/200, ISO100 from a few feet away.  PP'ing was all done in DPP and consists of DLO correction as well as other lens aberration corrections, sharpening @ 4 and RGB sharpening @ 125.

What's pretty amazing (to me anyway - perhaps y'all disagree) is the 100% crop



Color me impressed!

I managed to pick mine up for $142 (thanks to a heads-up on this site) from Adorama right as the rebates went into effect.  I haven't spent $142 more efficiently since I took my first picture.

Any thoughts?

Also, I've just used DLO for the first time today.  Anyone have any recommendations for a standard setting for the slider bar?  I think this one was at 65.  Thanks!

9
Software & Accessories / PP for realistic look - is DPP the best?
« on: April 17, 2013, 09:46:36 AM »
I've been using DPP to process images for the last 4 years or so.  I find that OOC RAW files usually just need to have lens aberrations corrected and then be sharpened for a realistic look (I shoot in the "Faithful" scene mode).  For instance - this thread is what's spurring this post: http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=14101

However, when I import into LR, I find that MUCH MUCH MUCH more work has to be done to get the image to look normal/realistic.  In fact, when I open an image in LR, it looks absolutely terrible and is BEGGING for PP'ing.

So I guess what I'm wondering is, why do so many use LR?  Am I alone in either A) Wanting images that look like reality or B) Am I doing something wrong to cause images in LR to look terrible upon opening them or C) Something else?

In DPP, I pretty much always go through each picture with the quick preview option, rate the keepers, go back and crop them if necessary, then open the first picture in the series, correct aberrations, possibly use NR if I shot above 800 ISO, then sharpen, then close, copy recipe, and paste it to all other images.  My work flow for 100 pictures takes just a few minutes and with very few exceptions, they need almost no adjustments for white balance, contrast, saturation, etc., and a little more often, for brightness.  Then I batch process the keepers.

So again, what am I missing?  Is this just a case where this work flow works well for me and not many others?

Thanks for any insight, recommendations, feedback, etc.

10
Animal Kingdom / Boa Constrictor - up close and personal - C&C please
« on: April 09, 2013, 10:21:50 PM »
I got into photography via my love of reptiles.  This is a little male Boa Constrictor that I produced, sold, and finally shipped out today.  I snapped a few pics before packaging him up and I liked a couple of them and I thought I'd share them and request a little C&C on the first.

FYI, proper color representation is ABSOLUTELY PARAMOUNT in the boa market so altering the colors into something that is not consistent with the look of the animal is absolutely NOT an option.  So, I'm looking more for C&C related to composition or any PP'ing that would fall within very strict ethical boundaries.



These last two are just more for fun than anything else.

Macro shot


100% crop of the image above...


Thanks!

11
Third Party Manufacturers / New sensor doubles brightness
« on: March 31, 2013, 02:14:42 AM »
Apologies if this has been posted already.  Thoughts?  http://www.diginfo.tv/v/13-0021-r-en.php

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Macro pics - FF or APS-C
« on: December 23, 2012, 08:04:58 AM »
I have debated the merits of upgrading to FF for a while now.  I think the pros outweigh the cons (other than cost) for the most part except possibly in one very important area for me, and that's macro shots.  Could someone help me to determine if my logic/research is correct?

I currently shoot with a 60D and the very good EF-S 60mm macro.  Generally for macro, you're not shooting wide open, or even close to it.  In general, I'm at f8 (range varies from f5.6-f11 most of the time) so that I get a somewhat decent depth of field.

If I were to switch to FF (either 6D or 5D3), I'd be using the 100mm macro instead (similar FOV to the 60mm macro on the 60D ~ 96mm).  To obtain a similar depth of field, would I not need a much smaller aperture?

For instance, I just used http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html to come up with the following scenario:

If I were using my current setup (60D + 60mm macro), the following parameters:
f8, 6.3' distance to subject
Would yield the following depth of field:
1 ft

***I realize this is not a macro shot but I used it because "1 ft" is a nice round number with some "play" to it - an actual macro calculation would have resulted in a very small fraction of a foot making a comparison much harder.

Now, if I were to pick up say, a 5D3 and the 100mm macro, in order to achieve 1 ft of depth of field at a distance of 6.3', I'd need to shoot at roughly f14.3 (the online calculator says this would be .99 ft).

Here's the problem...  Diffraction/lens sharpness.  I'm fairly sure that even as good as the 100mm macro is (even the L), it can't possibly be as sharp at f14 as the 60mm macro is at f8, can it?

What about when I'm in a pinch and need to go to f11 with my 60mm macro on APS-C?  I'd need to go to over f20 to achieve a similar DOF with the 100mm on FF.

So, is my thinking/calculations correct in this case?  Or am I overlooking something?  Could the 100mm macro (L or not) be as good or better than the 60mm macro when obtaining a similar depth of field?  Is the smaller APS-C sensor the key here?  And finally, would I be even BETTER served (for macro) by going down to m4/3?

Thanks for any insight!
Jonathan

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Going to my first air show - need advice
« on: March 22, 2012, 11:37:28 PM »
I'll be going to an air show this weekend, my first, and I am seeking advice on camera settings, techniques, etc.

I'm using a 60D and a lowly 55-250 (unless someone wants to donate a 70-300L to me ;) haha) for the in-flight pictures and more than likely my 15-85 for ground pictures.  So, I'm not expecting any award winning results (especially with the 55-250) and I'm really just doing this (the photography portion) for the experience.

I'm guessing that for in-flight pictures, high speed continuous shooting and Al Servo are pretty much standard for such an event, right?  What about metering?  Would spot be best?  Will I need exposure compensation?

What about pictures of the planes on the ground?  Any composition tips?  Is it taboo to cut off the tips of the wings or the nose of the plane in a picture?

Also, any pictures you've taken along with the details of the picture would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks for any advice, tips, etc., that you're willing to offer!
jb

14
Lenses / 4 lens conundrum - could use some help
« on: December 12, 2011, 10:39:44 AM »
I've recently been blessed with the great news that my wife and I are expecting our first child.  After a few days our talks migrated a bit towards video and pictures.  My current setup is:

60D (recent upgrade from the XSi)
60mm macro
15-85 (recent upgrade from the 18-55 that came bundled with the XSi - and sold with it as well)
55-250 (also bundled with the XSi but I kept it and have debated the benefits of going with the 70-300L since this lens isn't used very often - but when it is the pictures are often on once in a lifetime trip)

We're likely adding an HD video camera to the mix as my wife doesn't feel comfortable with the lack of full-time autofocus on the 60D.

Up until now, my primary use has been photographing my pet snakes.  The 15-85 and 60mm macro get that duty.  Secondary use has been any outings/trips (zoos, outdoor events, Australia, Costa Rica, etc.) we embark upon and that's where the 55-250 gets some use.

I'm coming from a realm far different than baby/portrait photography.  One where, in my circles, a deep depth of field is important to showcase an entire snakes body.  I often shoot between f8/f13 with my current lens lineup.  I'm looking forward to having a baby for many reasons but in the photography realm, I'm very excited about challenging myself and pushing my creativity by photographing people instead of scaly critters :)

I'm wondering what might be the best avenue for a lens that will pull heavy-baby-duty (especially indoors).  The 4 options I'm currently considering are:

60mm macro - I'm considering this because I've read a few reviews here and there that the other options I'm considering are best when stopped down to at least f2.8 and that's where this lens starts.  I already have it and am familiar with it - so why change?

50mm 1.8 - I'm considering this because of all of the rave reviews.  A lack of USM concerns me (just how loud is it? Loud enough to attract a baby's attention and ruin a "moment shot" or worse, wake a sleeping baby?) and I'm curious about the trade off of stopping down to increase DOF and the compromise of less light.  Also, is this focal length appropriate for baby shots on a crop sensor camera?

50mm 1.4 - I'm considering this because of the USM and more light gathering than the 50 1.8.  Same concern of stopping down and focal length.

28mm 1.8 - I'm considering this because the focal length/wide angle seems more appropriate for a crop sensor, its 1.8 max aperture, and the USM.

Cost really isn't a concern at this point (baby's not here yet, lol) as I'm okay with the price point of any of these lenses, but value definitely is a concern.  For example, I don't want to spend $100+ on the 50mm 1.8 if the 60mm macro I currently have is just as good of a solution (no value).  On the other hand, I don't mind spending $500+ on the 28mm 1.8 if it's the best solution for the job (great value).  I don't believe I'd like to go too much further than $500 though so something like the 50mm 1.2 would be out of the question.

So, any advice/guidance/experiences?  Are there other lenses I haven't considered and should (either inside the Canon portfolio or out of it)?

Thanks so much!
Jonathan

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