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Messages - DanielW

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166
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon Confirms 70D; Future of Semi-Pro DSLR is FF
« on: February 01, 2013, 09:12:35 AM »
...and that's why I'm keeping my humble 60D, 17-55, 50 1.4 and flash kit, and buying myself a Fuji X20 or ax X100s, with all its "limitations", for carrying around and for family events. In the future I'll probably get the successor of the X-Pro1 or X-E1, or even the successor of the Olympus OM-D EM-5, and carry lighter gear. The 60D is great and serves me pretty well -- I'm keeping it --, but my razor-thin DoF fever is cooling off pretty quickly and it looks like Fuji's line of thinking fits the bill better than Canon's for my needs.
Anyone else considering Fuji or Olympus?
Cheers,
Daniel

167
Canon General / Re: Why did you choose Canon?
« on: January 30, 2013, 03:02:55 PM »
Even though I wish I had better, deeper technical arguments, the actual reason was that the Canon 60D was cheaper than the Nikon D7000 when I bought my first DSLR, and it felt just right in my hands.

168
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 6D reviewed by PhotographyBlog
« on: January 07, 2013, 02:32:52 PM »
Another one

Yada yada yada - I think all the bloggers just read other reviews and write a new one, what I'm waiting for is dpreview.com that strangely takes a lot of time, but imho is one of the best for reviews that really tell you where the hidden catches are.

We can either (1) wait on the dpreview, then, or (2) do as everyone and start our own review webpage!
(May I suggest ctrl_c_ctrl_v_reviews.com?)
:)

170
Lenses / Re: Prime Lens for 6D
« on: January 02, 2013, 07:41:19 PM »
You might be interested in what Kai has to say about it (50 and 35 mm, resp):

http://www.digitalrev.com/article/5-reasons-why-you-need/MzI1Mjg0MA_A_A

http://www.digitalrev.com/article/5-reasons-you-need-a/MzQ2MjUzNzk_A

Best of luck!
Daniel

171
PowerShot Cameras / Re: Canon France Teases New Products
« on: December 28, 2012, 12:04:05 PM »
Come on. She is clearly holding a sub $3000, 50mp, 14 stops Canon 4D.

Sorry, but you're completely wrong. She's clearly holding a bottle, pouring beer on herself for us to photograph, trying with some new no-one-no-longer-cares-about Canon camera while her shirt gets wet and beer runs down her body.
(What I find most disturbing is that the guy with the fancy hair seems to prefer table tennis.)
:)

172

.
If this is all you've got to be angry about, I'd say you have a lot to be thankful for.

Suggest you focus on all the good stuff in life -- seek joy!!

Happy holiday season to you!!

That was sure a great #666 post! :)

173
Lenses / Re: New Lens Purchase Dilemma
« on: December 24, 2012, 03:03:34 PM »

LR4 should round off things nicely for you too!

Merry christmas everyone!

Is LR4 so much better than LR3 so you'd take it instead of a new lens?
And what about the complaints on LR4 running so slow? Not an issue anymore?
Merry Christmas to you, too!


I would purchase a copy of LR4 over getting the 40mm pancake.


What can you do in LR4 that you couldn't do in LR3?
Cheers :)

174
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Canon EOS 5D Mark III Body for $2599 via eBay
« on: December 08, 2012, 12:58:32 PM »
Damn, how can I decide between the 6D and the 5DmIII now?  :)

175
Sadly I don't have the equipment to test this formally, but I will have a 60D and 6D tomorrow for some rough analysis.
Great! Can't wait to see the results!

176
I understand we're talking about focus speed and sensitivity of the central point, but has anyone tested the outer points with fast glass in terms of focus accuracy? Most of the tests I've found on the web, like Roger's, concern the central point exclusively.
I'm asking this because 11 AF points should be enough for me, if they're all really usable. Maybe the only situation for which I actually need the outer points is when shooting with a very shallow DoF and placing the focus zone very off-center, when composition would change too much and the focus-and-recompose technique would sure fail. (If the subject is not so close to the camera, then the angle changes little when recomposing and I can usually take a sharp pic, even with a shallow DoF.)
I sure appreciate -3 EV sensitivity, but in very low-light situations I won't be playing around with composition anyway, and having one reliable, sensitive central point sounds good enough, IMO. The precision of the outer points concerns me the most, for I can't rely very much on them when shooting with my 60D, even in reasonably well-lit situations.
(Sorry if it's been discussed before; I searched, but found nothing.)
Thanks!
Daniel

177
Contests / Re: Gura Gear Giveaway!
« on: December 07, 2012, 10:37:37 AM »
Wow, most popular thread ever...
Well, who doesn't want to win?! I sure do! :)

178
EOS Bodies / Re: 6D Likely Price Trend
« on: December 05, 2012, 07:03:49 PM »
Past performance not indicative of future results, but here's the trend for the 5DmkIII since being available last summer (scroll down to see graph):

http://www.canonpricewatch.com/product/03868/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-price.html

And here's the same thing for the 5DmkII (ditto):

http://www.canonpricewatch.com/product/02699/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-II-price.html

Er...what's the deal with the 5D II dropping to $0 for...maybe a week...in the middle of November? Was Canon simply giving them away for free? And how in the world could I have missed that incredible opportunity!!!  ??? :o ::)
I missed it then too, and would miss it once again, for I can't find the mid-November drop to $0 you found on the website...  :P

179
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 6D Under-Exposing?
« on: December 05, 2012, 06:49:15 PM »
"The camera’s sensor does not give equal weight to all tones. In fact, your digital sensor is heavily weighted to the brightest areas in your photo. (...) Taken another way, the camera has a fixed number of numeric values for describing the brightness of a pixel. Fifty percent of those numeric values are devoted to the brightest f-stop in your photo. Each successively darker f-stop receives one-half the number of the f-stop ahead of it, until the shadows receive only a small sliver of the total possible values. This is important information, because all detail in your photos is a result of subtle differences in tone and color between adjacent pixels. In the shadows, where fewer values are available to describe these differences, it becomes more difficult to retain details. Underexposing photos drives more of the information contained within a photo deeper into the shadows, causing a loss of detail and an increase in noise (unwanted color impurities) in the photo."
(Taken from Perfect Digital Photography, 2nd edition, hopefully not infringing any copyrights.)

That is correct. If you want to know the reason is quite simple.  Humans see light in an approximately logarithmic fashion (as if we were taking the log (base ~2) of the actual light we see).  (We also hear in a logarithmic fashion as well.)  This is very useful to us since it means we can see when there are just a few photons, and when there are tens of thousands of times more photons per until area of our eyes - and yet it looks to us like it's only a few times brighter.

Sensors are linear, they just measure the approximate number of photons per pixel.  So if your images has 9 stops of dynamic range, the brightest stop has half the the available data.  And the darkest stop only has ~0.2-0.4% of the data.

Exposing to the right (as long as you aren't blowing out the highlights), is a very good idea if you want to have more freedom to play with your images afterwards - since you'll have much more data in the shadows.  Just one stop of "overexposing" will give you twice the shadow detail.

However I digress, and still want to know what's going on with those 6D long exposures...
Thanks for the explanation!
Are you familiar with some book or website where I can read more about it? I do enjoy digressions... :)

180
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon 6D Under-Exposing?
« on: December 05, 2012, 04:18:38 PM »
Well, as somebody in the comments section of that page mentioned, if its underexposing, a long exposure (like the 30 seconds in the night shot of San Francisco on the link) will exacerbate the issue.

The test shots on those links were shot at 1/4 sec.

I am pretty concerned about this issue, I'm really hoping it's just the factory settings, like Auto Lighting Optimizer being turned on.

My T2i overexposes constantly, especially with my 28-135mm. I'd really like to be able to use aperture priority mode without having to mess with the EV settings constantly.
I oftentimes shoot with my 60D overexposing by 0.3 stops (sometimes 0.6), and it has never annoyed me. I just set it to +0.3 and leave it like that.

Are you looking for a brighter look, or does +0.3 look more correct? I'm constantly moving between -.6 and -1.3 just so images aren't totally washed out and clipping.

Sorry if this is derailing the thread a bit. It seems like this could have a major impact on night sky/star field shooting, which I am looking forward to doing when I go full frame.
I see no problem at all in derailing...
I've found myself quite often disagreeing with the camera's meter and increasing exposure in LR, and (although those with better knowledge on the subject may disagree) digital sensors deal better with overexposure than the opposite. I always shoot RAW, so I can bring exposure down if necessary with no loss of detail; on the other hand, I would probably introduce noise if I were to bring exposure back up.
It might sound like it's all good, but I've screwed up a few (too many) shots already by doing like that. When shooting something important, I always overshoot and vary exposure.
I think it's about knowing your camera, too, and having it do what you want and adapt it to your own photographic tastes/needs.
Neuro and others here sure know it in details; I just read it in one of the first books I bought (read quote below) and believed... :)

"The camera’s sensor does not give equal weight to all tones. In fact, your digital sensor is heavily weighted to the brightest areas in your photo. (...) Taken another way, the camera has a fixed number of numeric values for describing the brightness of a pixel. Fifty percent of those numeric values are devoted to the brightest f-stop in your photo. Each successively darker f-stop receives one-half the number of the f-stop ahead of it, until the shadows receive only a small sliver of the total possible values. This is important information, because all detail in your photos is a result of subtle differences in tone and color between adjacent pixels. In the shadows, where fewer values are available to describe these differences, it becomes more difficult to retain details. Underexposing photos drives more of the information contained within a photo deeper into the shadows, causing a loss of detail and an increase in noise (unwanted color impurities) in the photo."
(Taken from Perfect Digital Photography, 2nd edition, hopefully not infringing any copyrights.)

Hope it helps. :)

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