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Messages - Shawn L

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16
With different people seeing different things with the same platform, I wonder if someone who has it working (on say a 5DIII or 1DX) would be okay with posting their camera's config file. Others could (after saving their own config to restore later) load the "working" config to see if it works on their camera, too.

That would at least eliminate/confirm it being a configuration issue.

Shawn L.

17
Landscape / Re: Help Me Get Better - Crashing Waves
« on: November 16, 2012, 05:59:30 PM »
I've recently been interested in tripods, too. You might find this site helpful:

http://www.ronmartblog.com/2011/05/tripod-recommendations2011-part.html

It includes recommendations ranging from very affordable to not so much.

Shawn L.

18
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: DUST!!!!!!! WHAT TO DO!?!?!? (resolved)
« on: November 15, 2012, 12:17:16 AM »
Not sure if this will actually help prevent blowing dust into your camera or not, but that's the intent of the attached Hepa filter :):

http://www.adorama.com/CPKHJDB.html

Shawn L.

19
Lenses / Re: Shooting straight down with 24-70 mm II -- possible?
« on: November 11, 2012, 08:42:06 PM »
Thanks, once again, Mt. Spokane.

I am shooting in One Shot. May I'm just doing something wrong. Maybe it is still a MFD issue. I'm still getting used to the lens.

Shawn L.

20
Lenses / Shooting straight down with 24-70 mm II -- possible?
« on: November 11, 2012, 04:27:58 PM »
Testing out a new 24-70 II (after running it through Fo-Cal three times, thanks again for everyone who helped with that :)), and some of the photos are sharp. But those where the camera is steeply angled down, often aren't.

Is that expected? Do others see the same thing?

I don't notice any lens creep, but could it be so miniscule that I wouldn't?

Sorry for my ignorance :/

Cheers.

Shawn L.

21
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Convince me to shoot in RAW
« on: November 09, 2012, 11:37:57 AM »
RAW files on a 50D have 14 bits of data per channel. JPGs, on the other hand, only have 8 bits of data per channel. What does this mean? Well, in a JPG file, values for red, green, and blue range from 0 to 255. In a RAW, red, green, and blue range from 0 to 16383 (effectively). That means there's 64 times more data in the RAW file.

But you can't really display all of that, so why would you want it?

Well, let's suppose you accidentally overexpose an image so that all of the data is in the right half of the histogram. With a JPG, that would mean red, green, and blue only had 128 possible values (values from 128 - 255 (the left hand-side of the histogram, 0-127 is empty)).

If you edited the image, spreading the data out so that the entire histogram was filled, there would still only be 128 unique values for each channel (here, I'm ignoring interpolation which would cause the image to soften; I'm also ignoring dithering, which would help, but effectively introduce noise). So even though you'd now have an image with solid blacks and bright whites, gradations would be blocky.

Looked at numerically:

Initially, your gradation contained: 128, 129, 130, ... 255
After corrections, the gradation contained: 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, ...254


You're jumping by twos in the corrected image because you're trying to cover 256 values with 128 unique inputs.

If, however, you did the same thing with a RAW file, you'd have started with 8192 possible values for red, green, and blue (8192-16383). Looking at that numerically:

Initially, the gradation contained: 8192, 8193, 8194, 8195, ... 16383
After adjustments: 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, ... 16382

But, you're still counting by 2's, right? How is this better?

Well, you still have way colors than are displayable by most devices you're likely to use (your monitor probably is 8 bit, or possibly 10 bit; either way, it has fewer colors than the 14 bit RAW file). When you scale your data back down to fit into the 0 to 255 range used by your display, printer, etc, you get:

0 / 64, 2 / 64, 4 / 64,...
0, 0.03, 0.06, ..., 16384/64
0, 0, 0, ..., 255


Thus, all numbers from 0 to 255 are represented (without averaging any of the existing data) and you get smooth gradations.

That means RAW allows you to more heavily edit images without causing visual artifacts.

Note that the above works no matter how you've over or under exposed your image -- up to a point, of course :)

Shawn L.

22
Lenses / Re: New 24-70 II, maybe AFMA will help?
« on: November 08, 2012, 09:14:33 PM »
Thanks again for the help, Mt. Spokane.

Shawn L.

23
Lenses / Re: New 24-70 II, maybe AFMA will help?
« on: November 08, 2012, 02:57:11 PM »
Old Shooter & Mt Spokane:

I have been looking at getting FoCal, my hold up has been that I don't own a tripod and I'm not sure I need one other than for this. Perhaps, it's time to rent one, though :)

Thanks, everyone.

Cheers.

Shawn L.

24
Lenses / Re: New 24-70 II, maybe AFMA will help?
« on: November 08, 2012, 11:14:42 AM »
Okay, so mine was nowhere near sufficient, then :)

Shawn L.

25
Lenses / Re: New 24-70 II, maybe AFMA will help?
« on: November 08, 2012, 10:48:27 AM »
Ah, thank you, Neuroanatomist et al.

I did a quick test before work with a yardstick tilted at what I hoped was 45 degrees. The results were a bit inconclusive as nothing felt any sharper than my intended focus area, and that still felt soft.

I'll try the other test tonight or tomorrow.

Cheers.

Shawn L.

26
Lenses / Re: New 24-70 II, maybe AFMA will help?
« on: November 08, 2012, 08:59:21 AM »
Good idea. Thank you, Ben.

Shawn L.

27
Lenses / New 24-70 II, maybe AFMA will help?
« on: November 08, 2012, 12:13:59 AM »
Just got a new 24-70 II and I must say that my initial images are, well, disappointing. I was hoping for something along the lines of the ridiculous sharpness of the 70-200 II. Sadly, what I'm seeing is much closer to my 28-135.

If you look at this .cr2 file in DPP (http://home.comcast.net/~sal6/BY5R6357.CR2), you'll see the focus point is the white and purple cluster of flowers. However none of the flowers in that cluster are what I would consider remotely sharp -- this was taken at 70 mm, 1/320 sec, with f/2.8, ISO 100. With those, I don't think it's the lack of IS.

All of the photos I've taken are like this, without regard to shutter speed (even up through 1/2000 @ f/2.8 (ISO 150)) -- also,  this is actually one of the sharper ones.

Maybe AFMA will help. But I'd (naively?) expect an AFMA problem would mean that something, somewhere in the image would be sharper. I suppose it's possible that there's nothing at the right depth...

Thoughts?

Shawn L.

28
EOS Bodies / Re: Official DXOMark Sensor Score for the EOS-1D X
« on: October 31, 2012, 10:51:03 AM »
Quote
But neither is a dedicated Nikon shooter going to run and buy the Canon 1D X.


Um, wrong (at 16:15):
÷žė Small | Large


1) Green D4
2) AF on Canon

:)

Shawn L.

30
Lenses / Re: 70-200 f/2.8 II + 2X converter versus 100-400 f/4.5-5.6
« on: October 20, 2012, 02:40:45 PM »
Thanks, mhvogel.de.

Shawn L.

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