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Messages - BozillaNZ

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Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Ever Heard of the Petzval Lens?
« on: July 25, 2013, 10:32:44 PM »
Not really into the weirdo lens thingy, I might get a 50 1.8II for less price and better optics.

Lenses / Re: Review - Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II
« on: July 25, 2013, 10:20:01 PM »
I don't know why some of you complain about corner softness wide open. Do you have any scenario that requires sharp corners using f2.8 except astro, which is the nichest of the niche use? Or 'hand hold landscape'? If you want that, you might as well just get a P&S for the job.

And 24L II is due for an update? Oh please, just cut it.

When you shoot at f1.4, or f2.8 for that matter, you want your point of interest to be sharp and in focus, and you want your background, that includes the corner, to fade away to reinforce the attention of the topic. And how many of you puts your topic object in the corner and shoot wide open? Let say 0.0001%? And in normal usage, wide open in center / mid-frame, 24L II is the sharpest f1.4 lens I've ever used.

To me the versatility of 16-35 trunces the bulb head 14-24. The useful 35mm f2.8 setting (not many UWA offers that), the flare resistance as mentioned above, the ability to take filter are all better. Which includes putting on a UV filter and don't worry about using it in harsh conditions. I've seen so many 14-24 owners bought the lens, gets excited, then put it in storage because they don't want to make undue damage to the bulb head front element. How sad.

Even if Canon comes up with a bulb head 14-24 I'm sure I won't be interested. By switching my 16-35 to a 14-24 I will have to buy a separate 35mm lens, double dent in the wallet!

Landscape / Re: Mt Eden Sunset in Auckland, NZ
« on: July 25, 2013, 01:48:19 AM »
I love living in Auckland too  :)

Well done and a good start to landscape photography.

Btw, What is that artifact (flare?) at bottom left corner?


Thanks! that flare might be caused by the GND filter. I have mounted the rectangle 2-stop GND filter on the lens, which is made by resin and is uncoated. Funny thing is even with the filter the dynamic range is still too high for a single shot. Might worth to try 3 or 4 stop reverse GND but I don't have then!  :-X

Also I took couple of dozen shots, only this one turned out to be within the 5 minutes sunset window. All the rest are uninteresting photos with either white light or dark blue ones. One thing learned: shooting sunset you have to act fast! 5 minutes best time per day that is also not cloudy/rainy!  ::)

Landscape / Mt Eden Sunset in Auckland, NZ
« on: July 24, 2013, 11:58:37 PM »

Some of you living the big cities might get amazed by the lack of tall building here, but that's all we have, country style!

16mm (21mm equivalent), f11, 1/20s

It's actually a 2 shot HDR, one for top half sky, another for the landscape. I've used a 2-stop soft GND but it's too weak to darken the sky to an acceptable level.

Need some C&C please, I'm pretty new to landscape photography. Thanks!

Lenses / Re: Patent: Canon EF 50 f/1.8 IS
« on: July 24, 2013, 08:01:51 AM »
But for this sort of focal length, if I have to choose between f2 IS and f1.4, I will take the f1.4 any time of the day. (not when I was drunk and shaky  :P)

Lenses / Re: 24-70 II cracked focusing ring.
« on: July 24, 2013, 08:00:00 AM »
The thing is, the focus rubber is not glued at all. It can be easily pulled off. But it's your lens and you can decide what to do.

Lenses / Re: Move from 24-70 f/2.8L Mk I to 35mm F/1.4?
« on: July 24, 2013, 07:30:44 AM »
I like the Sigma 50, the problem is, it's motor died on me. There are also several reports of incidence that Sigma 35 focus got stuck in MFD in both AF and MF mode, which all leads to one thing: sloppy manufacturer/design

Lenses / Re: 24-70 II cracked focusing ring.
« on: July 24, 2013, 06:46:56 AM »
I'm amazed by the lack of DIY spirit you guys have. It's a rubber band, pull it and it gets off. What's so hard about that?!

This place sells Canon original part stock, I bought several lens/camera parts from them. I've even searched it for you:

Just buy it for 18 pounds, get it shipped take 5 minutes to install it, saves your own hassle and time without the lens.

Lenses / Re: 24-70 II cracked focusing ring.
« on: July 24, 2013, 05:24:08 AM »
That's just the rubber, not the actual focus ring. It's a cheap consumable/replaceable part. Just look for the part number, buy it from camera parts shop/ebay/whatever, tear the old one off and slip the new one on.

Something like this, for $19:

But that's for 24-70 f4 IS, if you search for it there must be one for 24-70 II

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: lcd display on 6d
« on: July 24, 2013, 01:57:27 AM »
Yes it is UniWB. It basically give the camera WB adjust coefficients of 1.0, 1.0, 1.0, which means WB is NOT applied at all.

Then you use flattest tonal curve by choosing Neutral picture style, then dial down the contrast to lowest, sharpness to lowest (to remove sharpening halo)

Then the histogram will be a lot better resembling what the RAW records.

Of course the output JPG will be garbage, all green and stuff. But if you enable highlight blink, you gets RAW blinks too!

There will still be a bit of discrepancies between UniWB histogram/blinkies and the real RAW data but at least it's a lot closer.

Oh, while you are at it, don't forget to shoot a white card in the scene to restore WB in post.

Lenses / Re: Patent: Canon EF 50 f/1.8 IS
« on: July 23, 2013, 11:15:29 PM »
Jeez, all I want is a 50 1.4 that don't break by no reason, has typical ring type USM (read: more predictable/precise), doesn't extend when focusing and less hazy wide open.

Why is it so hard to get? I think Canon enjoys screwing with it's customers.

I'm currently having both Sigma and Canon 1.4 in hand. Shooting them side by side, it is pretty much clear than the Sigma is a far superior lens.

The front focus in near/back focus in far problem is the only issue I have with Sigma, but at least it is PREDICTABLE unlike the Canon.

If that 50 1.8 IS becomes the actual product, I will have to either pay to get my Sigma calibrated, or buy a new one and have it calibrated.

Lenses / Re: Lens flare.... I want it! :)
« on: July 23, 2013, 10:52:46 PM »
straight out of a D800 with the latest nikkor 70-200 2.8

Superman has a dog?!

Lenses / Re: More Canon Pancakes ?
« on: July 23, 2013, 06:23:55 AM »
I'm totally with the flange distance theory, it is unlikely that Canon can come up with any more EF/s pancakes.

Which means... No more pancakes for you!

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Question regarding focusing
« on: July 23, 2013, 06:06:06 AM »
Yes they do. AF accuracy depends on all the mechanical parts lined up properly and through use, wear and tear happens in the movable parts and degrades the AF accuracy gradually.

Main mirror has two hinges connected to the mirror box, two stoppers to rest on.
AF submirror has two hinges connected to the main mirros, one or two stoppers to rest on.

For each picture taken the mirrors have to swing up and down in rapid motions. The hinges can get worn, creates play. The stoppers can be knocked out of position. Both will affect the mirrors' position and angle.

When that happens, if the mirror box has means of adjustments, then can be adjusted to gain back some performance, otherwise nothing you can do about it unless replace the entire mirror box assembly.

Electrical adjustments can also be done but when doing that on a worn mechanical system, it's just a band-aid solution. Sooner it will be out again.

And if you have to ask, I know what I'm talking about (picture showing main mirror hinge position adjuster):

I've completely dismantled my 1D Mark III to fix a mirror problem. Whole set of images:

Even top of the line 1D do get out of focus by various reasons. However they are all metal on the construction and are fully adjustable, which makes the cost of maintenance relatively low. You can fix instead of replace most of the time.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: lcd display on 6d
« on: July 22, 2013, 08:03:18 PM »
One piece of advice: Always judge exposure using histogram, the R-G-B one.

You understand that digital photos are just bunch of numbers stored in memory right? As long as you recorded the entire scene values within sensor's dynamic range (i.e. not 'blow it'), what appears on screen doesn't matter, a beautiful scene can always be recreated using various mathematical mojos.

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