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Messages - victorwol

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this is one of the setups I use to photograph my wife jewelry...

That is too big to be the camera. If you don't want to have any black anywhere. You need to have either enough white cards to reflect, or shoot inside a shooting cone. Anyway, some black is also good because it add contrast to something otherwise would be flat. If you believe is the camera, just put a little red piece of cardboard on the side of the lense and look if you see it. My guess it is will be just a red point because of the curvature of the object. I usually use a huge white card with a little hole for the lens. That hole should not be more than a tiny dot on the jewelry. 

polarizing filter and move the lights around.....

Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought that polarizing filter does not help with the reflection from metal surfaces.

I could kill some highlights, but is not going to hide the camera, and you want highlights in jewelry. My guess too much light is getting spilled onto the camera body. I have shot pieces at a distance of 3 inches probably, and I don't see my camera unless shooting a mirror in the right angle to see the camera.

The color of the paper will depend on the kind of reflection you want on the jewerly, usually one look for reflections, but I have never encountered yet a situation where the reflection of the camera is that visible, specially because usually the light is controlled in a way that not a lot of light is spilled out of the area of the piece to photograph.

You can find great advise in this website :

Reviews / Re: Review - Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM
« on: April 28, 2013, 10:55:01 AM »
The idea of adjusting in several places sound very interesting. But with the software not controlling the lens while adjusting, not even being in the camera, how do one know how much need to be adjusted without making 200 tries?? What means -1 or +3 ??? How much distance is that? How you know what number to put in there?

Reviews / Re: Review - Canon EF 8-15 f/4L Fisheye
« on: April 26, 2013, 11:55:37 PM »
What kind or brand of ND gel you use? Doesn't degrade the image?


Reviews / Re: Review - Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM
« on: April 26, 2013, 11:52:40 PM »
Received mine today.... Pretty impressed with it. Great flare control. Fast focus.

Lenses / ND filter for EF 8-15
« on: April 25, 2013, 11:29:24 PM »
Hi! Does anyone used an ND on the read filter holder of the EF 8-15? Is there anything out there with good quality for this? I like very much what I can do with my Lee Big Stopper and would love to be able to do things like that with the 8-15 too...


It does not sound plausible to me that a camera can break a card by reading or deleting it, that it might happen because the card was faulty, and you just happened to be writing or erasing something at that moment, that could be... But the camera toasting the card... Don't thing so unless there is a huge design fault on the camera and probably most of use would have the same problem and a huge class action against Canon would be in order by now.... There are no moving parts like in HDDs so it is harder to break, but for sure there are parts that can go wrong, I had a Sandisk Pro Extreme going bad, totally dead, but just sent it back to Sandisk, had it replaced in about 10 days, but would never blame the camera for it, of course it is going to break while you using it :-)

Hope you get it replaced. Good luck!

Have you check the Canon 16-35 flicker group? There is plenty of photos in there only with this lens. I have it and enjoy it a lot..

Canon General / Re: Think I need a 12 step program
« on: March 30, 2013, 12:18:03 AM »
The only cure is enjoy without regret... As long as you can still buy food after buying the gear.... We are not taking the money to the grave.

Reviews / Re: Kirk Security Strap review
« on: February 03, 2013, 08:44:46 PM »
Looks interesting... Although makes me a bit nervous the idea of the clamp getting lose and the camera falling... What are your thoughts about that? I've being using arca clamps for a noon time, but never to hang a camera...

5D MKIII has free running time code, it is based on the time of the day which can be sync between cameras a a computer or GPS unit. So you don't need to roll both cameras all the time, the multicam oof Premiere or Media Composer or any editing software will base it on the timecodes of both cameras. We do this all the time even with more cameras like Sony F3, Canon C300, Panasonic, Red, all comes with the same timecode from the field, sometimes there is a small shift, but that can be adjusted for a given camera, at least in Media Composer, not sure for Premiere, that will shift everything from that camera to match it with the rest, since they are in free run mode, you sync only once and works for the rest of the shoot.

Lenses / Re: How many times did you return (L) lenses to get a good copy?
« on: January 11, 2013, 08:33:19 AM »
My first and only Sigma lens went back for exchange too... Right out of the box could not focus at all

Lenses / Re: How many times did you return (L) lenses to get a good copy?
« on: January 11, 2013, 01:10:34 AM »
eBay risky? Why? I have sold so much gear lately... How can a place like this be less risky with all the protections eBay have in place? Just wondering. Not looking for a debate.

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