« on: July 06, 2012, 03:15:27 AM »
I think these are on the warm side and should be rebalanced to tungsten
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The background is not really important. What is important is your subject being separate from the background to be able to distinguish your subject properly. Otherwise you just have a head and two arms floating in the blackness.
Well, I would disagree as far as getting lost in the background. Background (as the word implies) is not as important as the subject matter (foreground).
I did bring a WhiBal Pro white balance 18% gray card for White correction so what you see is matched with that card. (note EXIF is listed "custom" for white balance.)WB gray cards can produce off images when using custom WB. so that would explain why it looks on the cooler side. Custom WB just means AWB based on the gray card shot but is applied to all other images with custom WB. This leaves room for error on the cameras side.
I answered Other, as I think it is just a great all-around camera.
The IQ is terrific, the focus fast and accurate and it handles everything I have put to it so far extremely well.
I don't think there is really any other camera that can compare to it for a "compact" DSLR, IMHO, that is so good at virtually anything you'd want a camera to do.
I use the Photomatix plugin for Aperture.
Actually, yes I'm one of those guys naming something not on the official poll, I love the Multi-Exposure and HDR features on the 5D Mark III. I used them heavily last night doing night street photography. You can shoot a ME mode of a stop light with all 6 bulbs lit up in one photo if you shoot 4 shots at 90 degree angle to the light: (Green/Red, Yellow/Red, Red/Green, Red/Yellow) and into one final image. I didn't have time to get the exposure correct for each color, but I'm going back tomorrow to perfect it.
Nah, this poll sucked that's the only thing gathered here.+1
wicki..yeah the manual setting would be good though Auto ISO I think is the only option there true?
Those colored lights can (and have) ruined a lot of good concert shots. Whenever possible I try and avoid as many red light shots as possible wheras green and blue are manageable. Here's two taken on the 7D with the 70-300 L IS USM lens last fall. Both hand held and a good distance from the stage (about 100+ feet).
On the Strawbs (Dave Cousins) photo settings were: 1/40, F5, 214mm, ISO 3200 Manual White Balance. The 1/40 was a bit too low at certain times as to be expected when artist had more movement. As wicki mentioned 1/100 would be good but not slower than 1/60
The Zombies (Colin Blunstone) setting were: 1/30, F 5.6, 300mm, IS 3200, Manual White Balance.
Post processing done in DPP.
I'm actually getting ready tonight to (try) to shoot a concert in a VERY small venue. Not sure what lighting will be...etc.
I have a 5D3, but only one lens I have is very fast my 85mm 1.8.
I have a 17-40mm L f/4, and the kit 24-105mm f/4 L lenses.
Any advice for trying to get some good useable shots?
I'm needing to learn how to do like you did, in particular with lighting in the back...how do you go about metering and setting exposure so that I don't get all silloettes?
I'm planning to try to shoot manual....with maybe some apeture priority....
shoot manual keep your shutter at 1/100 if possible at f1.8 or f2 your are probably going to be in the iso 4000 to iso 8000 range tweek your iso to suit if its really dark you might need 12800
the 17-40 at f4 you would probably need to be at 1/50 and 25600 iso but subject motion might be an issue at such a slow shutter speed
i was shooting f2.8 with the 16-35 at 12800
dont be afraid of a little highlight clipping as you can recover that but make sure you are not under exposing your subjects
forget aperture priority it will not be good
#1 his face is too little exposed. #2 the mic hides his face. #3 too much flare. #4 need more colur, more saturation.
The laste one is nice, but you may crop it somewhat..
Sorry for .......