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Messages - Cgdillan

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211
Ahh, I see you are on the stage..well that certainly helps quite a bit.  here's an example of where I was seated..dealing with numerous seated heads and my distaste for red light as shown in this pic..the other shots previously posted was the opportunity where I had to stand near the men's room a few times to nab the prior shots.  I don't much like this shot but posted here to offer a feel for the cub's dynamics and seating arrangements..yes I am aware the shutter speed was too slow, etc..

That is a tough situation. I had a lot of freedom and it was a huge stage. Sorry to be off topic I notice in your description that you have the mp-e65. How do you like it? I've been thinking about it and don't really know much about it. Haven't done my research yet.

212
I think these are on the warm side and should be rebalanced to tungsten

214

Well, I would disagree as far as getting lost in the background.  Background (as the word implies) is not as important as the subject matter (foreground).
The background is not really important. What is important is your subject being separate from the background to be able to distinguish your subject properly. Otherwise you just have a head and two arms floating in the blackness.

I did bring a WhiBal Pro white balance 18% gray card for White correction so what you see is matched with that card. (note EXIF is listed "custom" for white balance.)
WB gray cards can produce off images when using custom WB. so that would explain why it looks  on the cooler side. Custom WB just means AWB based on the gray card shot but is applied to all other images with custom WB. This leaves room for error on the cameras side.

There are more shots on my site in this album if you want to check them out. they have fewer flares and mics in peoples faces. I just posted these since they seem to have some more character. http://www.stockhammedia.com/photo/concert-photography-album-1/

And i'm really not trying to bash your shots and i more than understand that there are some tight situations where you have very little control. That usually means no-so-great shots. i would recommend doing some post to bring out the torsos of your subjects and maybe warm them up just a bit. and i am on a brand new 27" iMac which is know for it's incredible image quality and color rendition. so I'm pretty sure i'm seeing these images properly.

215
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Graduation with 5D mkIII
« on: July 06, 2012, 02:09:51 AM »
Spoof pic I had my girl take of me with my mk3 on my doctoral graduation 2 months ago...

nice

217
EOS Bodies / Re: Another 5D mkIII Poll
« on: July 05, 2012, 01:27:28 PM »
I answered Other, as I think it is just a great all-around camera.
The IQ is terrific, the focus fast and accurate and it handles everything I have put to it so far extremely well.

I don't think there is really any other camera that can compare to it for a "compact" DSLR, IMHO, that is so good at virtually anything you'd want a camera to do.

I agree with your points completely

218
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Real Estate Photography 5D mkIII
« on: July 04, 2012, 05:51:06 PM »
@Cgdillan

I use the Photomatix plugin for Aperture.

do you know if there is a difference in the way it handles images in aperture vs standalone? do you do 3 shot brackets?

219
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Real Estate Photography 5D mkIII
« on: July 04, 2012, 05:26:15 PM »
joelerskates - what are you using to process?

220
EOS Bodies / Re: Another 5D mkIII Poll
« on: July 04, 2012, 11:18:17 AM »
Actually, yes I'm one of those guys naming something not on the official poll, I love the Multi-Exposure and HDR features on the 5D Mark III.  I used them heavily last night doing night street photography.  You can shoot a ME mode of a stop light with all 6 bulbs lit up in one photo if you shoot 4 shots at 90 degree angle to the light: (Green/Red, Yellow/Red, Red/Green, Red/Yellow) and into one final image.  I didn't have time to get the exposure correct for each color, but I'm going back tomorrow to perfect it.

Thanks =-) sweet shot btw. good idea. i just added multiple exposure and HDR to the poll =-)

221
EOS Bodies / Another 5D mkIII Poll
« on: July 04, 2012, 11:09:54 AM »
Just curious =-)

222
Nah, this poll sucked that's the only thing gathered here.
+1

223
wicki..yeah the manual setting would be good though Auto ISO I think is the only option there true?

Those colored lights can (and have) ruined a lot of good concert shots.  Whenever possible I try and avoid as many red light shots as possible wheras green and blue are manageable.  Here's two taken on the 7D with the 70-300 L IS USM lens last fall.  Both hand held and a good distance from the stage (about 100+ feet).

On the Strawbs (Dave Cousins) photo settings were:  1/40, F5, 214mm, ISO 3200 Manual White Balance.  The 1/40 was a bit too low at certain times as to be expected when artist had more movement.  As wicki mentioned 1/100 would be good but not slower than 1/60

The Zombies (Colin Blunstone) setting were:  1/30, F 5.6, 300mm, IS 3200, Manual White Balance.

Post processing done in DPP.

If you don't mind some criticism.. These shots are a good starting point but it seems your subjects torsos and anything that is not skin get lost in the background. I would suggest maybe finding a part of the background that is lit differently to pull your subjects out. they are also a bit on the cooler side of wb. it also may be nice to get shots from another angle. If your using auto iso then you may as well be using Av or Tv. I personally never trust auto iso, although that is just preference. I also wouldn't be too afraid of reds and stronger colors as you can use them as an effect in your shots when handled properly in framing and exposure.
For the shots that are slower than 100th/s i make sure to take anywhere from 2-4 shots in burst of the same shot to helps my chances of getting the shots.
Just my 2 cents. =-)

224
Nice shot!

I'm actually getting ready tonight to (try) to shoot a concert in a VERY small venue. Not sure what lighting will be...etc.

I have a 5D3, but only one lens I have is very fast my 85mm 1.8.

I have a 17-40mm L f/4, and the kit 24-105mm f/4 L lenses.

Any advice for trying to get some good useable shots?

I'm needing to learn how to do like you did, in particular with lighting in the back...how do you go about metering and setting exposure so that I don't get all silloettes?

I'm planning to try to shoot manual....with maybe some apeture priority....

Advice/Suggestions?

TIA,

cayenne

shoot manual keep your shutter at 1/100 if possible at f1.8 or f2 your are probably going to be in the iso 4000 to iso 8000 range tweek your iso to suit if its really dark you might need 12800

the 17-40 at f4 you would probably need to be at 1/50 and 25600 iso but subject motion might be an issue at such a slow shutter speed

i was shooting f2.8 with the 16-35 at 12800

dont be afraid of a little highlight clipping as you can recover that but make sure you are not under exposing your subjects

forget aperture priority it will not be good

 I agree with many of you points. But i shot the entire job without any improperly exposed shots. where as the lighting changes you may become too overexposed to recover. Don't forget these cameras do far better recovering shadows than highlights. If it seems the lighting is pretty constant then shoot manual. If not then i would recommend Av. Definitely do not be afraid shooting iso 12800 on the 5D mkIII as the images are amazingly useable. I would recommend using the 24-105 also because it has IS and hand shake will be greatly reduced.

225
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Results from my first week with the 5D3
« on: June 30, 2012, 12:15:59 PM »
love the colors and shallow dog in shot 2. Great stuff!

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