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Messages - AAPhotog

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Dynamic range is Probably more Important to me than noise reduction or pixel count.
I think the way to do this is to split the sensor into highlights and shadows...
I rather have an 8mp 16-stop split sensor, than a 16mp one with less DR.
It can be done.
It is interesting that most HDR cameras take 3 exposures but nobody thought about changing the ISO Instead.
I believe in pushing things to the limit and opening up the possibilities of a device...
Like my jailbroken iPhone 5. Which is amazingly more useful and fun than the limited iOS from apple.

Kudos to magic lantern!
Keep up the great work!

why not 36Mp and the best DR ?

D800/E is already 36Mp with 14.5 stop DR... without the ISO tricks
But I don't own a D800, so I couldn't care less.
What does the oh so precious d800 have to do with this topic again? Maybe 14.5 stops and 46megapixels aren't the ONLY things we'd like in a camera.

Sounds interesting.  But I have a dumb question (never used ML before).  Where is the link to the actual firmware file for the DR "upgrade"?

ML's download site has the latest 7D firmware from Dec. 2012.  I read the post and checked the .pdf... didn't see anything or links to the file in there.

You have to build it yourself.
Here is the code: https://bitbucket.org/hudson/magic-lantern/commits/all

If that is too much for you. Here is a link of it already built. Built by the magic lanterns forum member 'Lourenco'
The second link is for the 5D3 files

Until a fully featured ML version is compiled and distributed for 5D3 (with 1.2.1 firmware) it is purely theoretical...
So you mean to tell me that this isn't practical without being able to use it with 1.2.1 firmware?
Well I must say as a 1.1.3 user, I appreciate and make use of their hard work on a day to day basis. So I could care less about being able to record through hdmi a horrible 1080 picture on another $800 device that is sold seperately.

Very interesting but would like to understand what 14 stops mean.

In the lowest (darkest) stop, how much data is there?  8 bits or 256 gray levels, 4 bits or 16 gray levels, ...?
If it were bright enough out side that you had a choice of either under exposing 2 stops and seeing in the shadows and having the sky blown out, or exposing for the sky and the shadows were pitch black, but the difference was 2 stops(ie exposing at 400 iso would show the sky but no shadows/1600 would show the shadows but blown out sky), this hack would enable you to keep the detail in BOTH the shadows AND the sky at the same time

Well now that we are aware of this technique, we should examine the DR claims of other video manufacturers to see if this is how they're doing it. The tell-tale would be aliasing effects on high-contrast diagonals.

Which shows you how important chart tests are, and how bizarre it is that there still isn't a site that does consistent and reproducible chart tests for the entire range of video cameras. At the cost of these things, we have a right to know.
You do have a right to know. Set up the websites and conduct the tests!

Software & Accessories / Re: YEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAA!
« on: July 15, 2013, 07:50:24 PM »
I have used the Android app "dSLR Controller" on my ASUS Transformer 101, so know that part of your set up. When the full tether benefits aren't needed it is a good solution. $8.00 when I bought it.  I am stills only so don't worry about the issue you mention on video feed. But the viewing is great and it's easy to bracket. Think copy job, on a tripod, small products.

The ASUS makes it possible to attach a USB to either their dock/keyboard (no adapter needed) or to the tablet alone (adapter needed from ASUS for my model). Can't have it in one hour and it's more $ but the usefulness of the tablet made me willing to buy the adapter. I also use the tablet to sell my services. I never went with the iPad so didn't see that as a lost $$.

I will look closely at your mount. These days I have fewer clients showing up for shoots but I would like it to be easier for them when they do. I spent some time looking for a practical wiFi solution to use with the ASUS while tethered to a windows laptop for the actual shooting, but I could not find a mirroring app that I thought I could make work. EyeFi not really a solution as best I can tell. Too slow, people say. I am open to looking again at that... shooting with 5DMk3 and 1DsMk3 bodies.
if you have dslr controller, you have the solution already. Look up their website to find out how to tether over the wifi

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Strange blue in place of black
« on: July 14, 2013, 11:37:27 PM »
Im glad someone else pointed it out, because to me, it looks as though she just used a blue pencil on that portion

Software & Accessories / Re: YEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAA!
« on: July 13, 2013, 08:02:20 PM »
A dumb question but:

can this be used for anything that moves, or is it basically for portraits and stills, etc?

You didn't read my entire book in the first post did you?
It's smooth with no stutters. And it's almost as the action is happening very very close. So yes, you would be able to record some one moving around and be able to keep focus. As long as you are a good enough focus puller to keep up.

Software & Accessories / Re: YEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAA!
« on: July 13, 2013, 06:38:58 PM »
That cable... Took me FOREVER to find. I bought the tablet thinking it wouldn't work as smooth as it did and was going to end up taking it back. So I wanted to purchase the cable in store in stead of online. I search everywhere in the greater Chicago area. Couldn't find it and almost bought it on amazon(would have taken 3-4 days to ship) I checked Frys. I had to drive an hour to get there, but I made it before closing! Cost me 6 bucks.
I don't like the guy that made the app because now I'm out of $200 that I had no intention of spending, but he redeemed his self because he saved me about $500 that I would have spent with smallHD

Software & Accessories / YEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAA!
« on: July 13, 2013, 06:38:27 PM »
I was contemplating buying a monitor for focus or whatnot. I was thinking small hd.
Instea of doing that, I thought I'd try the cheap way out first. So, I went to my nearest electronic store and picked up a Nexus 7 16GB for $169.99
Then I searched for HOURS to find a micro USB to female USB A OTG plug to hook my camera up to this thing. In the entire Chicago are there was ONE store that had this item which was Frys. The cord cost me $6
Then I went and bought the DSLR Controller app. I believe it was $8. I hooked my camera up and I've got Live view!!!
Now, I was quite skeptical because these controllers are usually VERY sluggis(think eos software that comes with camera) but this tablet shows the image damn near instantaneous very smooth it's unbelievable. I bought this anticipating taking it back for not working how I hoped it would. Now I guess I'm out of my money because I'm keeping it. So, for those wanting a monitor for focus and just an all around bigger view(7") this entire setup only cost me $184(really $214 after taxes)
I have TWO issues.
1) it doesn't work with my iPad. Idiot Apple smh. Would have saved me $200
2) while recording in crop mode(raw video) the image that ML shows me(the hacked one in black in white for the correct field of view) shows up in normale color on the tab(not a bad thing) BUT its waaaaay to the side. What I see on the cam and on tab(in crop mode) are two different things.
Any ideas on how I might be able to over come this anyone?

If anyone is curious. I'm using a 5D3. I'm soooooo glad I didn't just dish out the money to smallHD
I sound like a commercial but I promise, neither of these products are mine(except for the ones that I just paid for)

Only thing, I wish that I could output the 5d with hdmi and the app could read that. It currently(using USB) doesnt allow me to see magic lantern over lays and when recording raw video in crop mode, the view of what I'm actually recording, is MUCH different than the one that shows up on the app. Pity.

This video shows a rig and way to mount it to your rig. It also shows the speed and how responsive the app is
Nexus 7 tablet mount option for your DSLR RIG - DSLR FILM NOOB

Software & Accessories / Live View on tablets
« on: July 11, 2013, 08:23:18 PM »
Does anyone own an android tablet that allows you to hook up your canon and view the cameras Live view on the tablets display?
If so, how are you hooking it up? Usb or HDMI?
Is it easy and clear to focus
Also, what is the lag time?
Last, if you are using Magic Lantern on your camera, how is it looking on the tablet?

I'm thinking about buying something like this

Do you think it will work good?
By the way, this will be used for video, not photos so it's got to be pretty smooth with preferably no lag time to get a good focus on moving people

Download and install GingerHDR
That will allow you to import the RAW files straight out of the camera into Premiere Pro without having to convert to any DNG/TIF formats

Thanks for the heads-up!

GingerHDR is perfect for going straight into the NLE. It works as a plugin with both Premiere and After Effects. At $150, it's definitely on the costly side. At first, I ignored it because I figured there HAD to be a free alternative, right? Well, not yet. Up to this point, I think it is still the only software that will bring files directly into Pr/Ae without any compression.

GingerHDR has a 30-day trial. But I'm guessing that any projects I use it on will get disabled if I don't purchase a license. That is giving me a bit of pause, because I am confident there will be free alternatives within a matter of weeks/months. The question now is whether Prores 4444 (using RAWanizer) is good enough to tide me over until a free "native" solution emerges.

Does anyone have any thoughts on whether RAW will be that much better than Prores for my decidedly shamelessly videos? Is it worth that extra $150 for a month (or two) of native RAW editing?

I downloaded the trial, I'm thinking that maybe the plug in will get disabled, but maybe the ability to import the footage wont. Guess I'll have to wait to find out???

Download and install GingerHDR
That will allow you to import the RAW files straight out of the camera into Premiere Pro without having to convert to any DNG/TIF formats

Your very basic take-away from this should be nothing other than "Don't use wire transfers."

Agreed - it does seem like an odd way to buy something, especially domestically.  Still, I'm sure the OP has his reasons, didn't want to use a credit card, etc.

I've received wire transfers a few times, as disbursements of stock/option sales - I figure that Morgan Stanley knows how to send one properly).  I did have to wire money once, to pay in advance for lodging in a tiny place on the northern tip of Zanzibar that didn't take credit cards.  I will say that a comment in the other thread about banks not knowing how to handle an outbound wire was my experience - the first three BofA bank employees I dealt with didn't have a clue how to set it up, fortunately there was a real, old-school (and chronologically old, too) bona fide banker there who knew how to process it. Sadly, the gentleman disappeared at the next round of branch closures - sadly typical to pension off the experienced workers and keep the ones at the low end of the pay scale.

The thread was locked with the three final posts being that from Helen Oster. What does that imply? How many other threads are locked on this site?

Lots of them.  Usually because they're going nowhere.

You say you've called Adorama 20-30 times and your bank 5 times.  I think you're barking up the wrong tree.  Your bank sent the wire.  You are their client. Your bank can trace the money trail.  Wire transfers can be recalled.  Yet you're spending the majority of your time complaining about and to Adorama, who arguably has the least power to act on your complaints.

1. People should know what policies and practices the companies they do business with have. If they don't like the policies and practices they should find another business.

2. Posting here is the only way I get any traction with the company. Otherwise I am just some jerk who they can ignore.

Fine, but the transaction wasn't directly between you and Adorama, was it?  But you aren't naming your bank or even complaining about them...why not?  Wrong tree, as I stated. 

You can go ahead and continue blaming Adorama, despite the fact that they're not at fault here.  Know what?  Now that you have your money back, if you try and wire it to B&H and your bank again fails to execute the transaction properly, they'll probably refuse it, too, and your money will disappear for a while again.  Then you can start another complaint thread, and maybe Henry will show up to try and help, and you still won't realize where the real problem lies. But good luck...enjoy your new gear, if you can find someone to take your money...   ::)

After calling my bank I confirmed that I was lied to by Adorama. The money was not refused by them as I was led to believe. They took the money and wired it back days later after I was calling and complaining constantly. Who knows how that would have been handled if I was not on their case. It was a problem with Adorama's account team lying and then refusing to pick up phone calls because they are making mistakes. It was exactly what I initially suspected was going on. It does not take that long for money to be returned to a bank one state away. When they refuse to document their actions its because they are lying and trying to cover it up. My bank may or may not have forgot to put an address but again, I have no documentation and they have thoroughly proved that I cannot take their word. My bank has been helpful, forthright and honest as far as I can tell. I was indeed barking up the right tree by placing blame on Adorama. My bank has earned my trust after years of banking with them. Adorama has proven their dishonesty and ineptitude.

A bank SURELY wouldn't lie as to brush their mistake off on someone else... now would they
:please note sarcasm:

Chances are, once your bank sends out a transfer, if that transfer is denied or returned, it takes a certain amount of time for it to clear through your bank. Sometimes there are ways around it. I believe that you aren't getting the help that you hope for due to your attitude. Call your bank. Be calm courteous and nice when speaking to them. Ask them how you can rush the refund back to your account. There may be some way for adorama to send them some type of written note or something stating that they did not collect the funds, which will expedite the process(on your BANKS end) of getting your money back to you

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