April 16, 2014, 10:34:55 PM

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Messages - RLPhoto

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1
Lenses / Re: 2014, the year of the lens...but for whom?
« on: April 12, 2014, 09:19:02 PM »
I find myself in a strange possible future predicament. If sigma releases a 135 mm f/1.8 IS... I could end up switching entirely to sigma primes. A thought unimaginable 2 years ago.

2
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS sensors, and technology
« on: April 12, 2014, 08:44:05 AM »
MF  is  used not solely for its IQ. While it's IQ will always be better to that tiniest nth degree, it is better but we will soon see that gap widen with new CMOS sensors now being made in MF.

MF has the very best optics and is less demanding on the glass too. I remember my beat up scratched 80mm zeiss 2.8 being sharper than any 35mm lens because of the lower magnification.

MF backs can be attached to technical cameras with movements you can't get with a sensor buried in a body.

MF also has high true sync speeds with leaf shutters. A lustful trek for any strobist.

MF gear may give a client an impression of professionalism. Not always true but it not a camera you mom could have.

Is it worth 30K for a top end system? It depends but I am slowly purchasing my body, lens, And an older back to get those sync speeds.

What I'd like to see is a series of lenses from canon with a leaf shutter that works with any canon camera in live view. I can get the super sync speed without having to buy MF gear.

3
- The 6D's -3 EV lowlight sensitivity is currently unmatched by any DSLR on the market

If you shoot lowlight, sunsets, night photography or landscape photography the lowlight AF performance on the 6D wins.

As I pointed out a few pages ago in this thread:

How do you define 'low light'?  For example, the difference between shooting at -2 EV and-3 EV could mean 1/15 s, f/2.8, ISO 51200 vs. 102400.  Neither is very usable from an IQ standpoint.  What most people call 'low light' is generally substantially brighter than either spec.

Long exposure night photograpy might benefit from that extra stop of AF capability (but in that situation, you are on a triod and probably using Live View to focus anyway).  Sunsets, landscapes and general shooting have plenty of light relative to the AF sensitivity of even lower end dSLRs. 

I think the -3 EV spec of the 6D is Canon saying 'we did it because we can, and to throw a bone after otherwise limiting AF functionality of this body' - it looks good on paper, but is of little practical benefit in the vast majority of shooting situations.

As I've said many times, due to the low noise of the 6D, the low light sensitivity of the center AF point, can be very useful in the majority of situations where you are shooting wildlife (or people) around, before, or after sunset.  Or else if you are shooting landscape hand-held, with an IS lens, up to an hour after sunset...or during a full moon.  Or if you are shooting inside a club, or outside on a dimly lit city street at night, that -3EV capability is very useful.

ISO 6400 is extremely usable for professional prints via the 6D (with a bit of post processing), and ISO's a bit above that are still useful.

As for bashing the other AF points on the 6D, you need to bash the 5D2's as well, because they were no better.  It might not still be on sale, but plenty of forum readers still own and use the 5D2.

For anyone shooting with strobes, or shooting fast sports action in well lit areas, the 5D3 or 1DX is the camera you need (or perhaps a D800 at low ISO).

If you're shooting portraits with an f/1.4 lens, wide open at f/1.4, and require peripheral AF points to be used (for focusing on eyes, etc.), then yes the 6D will not give consistent results.  But then the 1DX and 5D3 don't fare much better in that situation, which is why serious portrait photogs who shoot this way, either manually focus, or use live view.  Of course most of them are closing that fast lens down quite a bit, in which case there is more wiggle room for AF inaccuracies.

And besides, in that peripheral area of these lenses (other than the Zeiss Otus)...those eyes that you claim are so razor sharp...actually are not, and are suffering from coma and astigmatism.  It's unavoidable...especially with such lenses as the 50L and 85L.
This was fine until you mentioned the 5D3 not being much better than the 6D for f/1.4 portraits using the outer AF points. The 5D3 makes the 6D look broken doing this and it's a shame a 60D or a 7D would also make the 6D look broken.

Pure opinion...
Pure denial...

4
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Speedlite Tutorials?
« on: April 11, 2014, 09:34:55 PM »
Shutter Speed controls ambient light and Aperture controls flash.

It disturbs me when people say that, especially to the inexperienced. Whilst it has some truth in that shutter speed does not affect flash power when below max sync, it is misleading in that aperture does affect ambient and flash (if the flash is in M and you don't change the power level).
+1

Shutter speed - ambient control (limited by sync speed. Which is why strobists crave high true sync speeds)

Aperture - affects ambient and flash exposure. (NDs can allow you to get the smaller f-numbers.)

ISO - affects ambient and flash exposure. (For speedlites, I start at iso 400 to get faster recycles with less power when ambient light is low.)

Then there is high speed sync, inverse square law, big mods vs small mods, etc... but the fundamentals stay the same.

5
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art Available for Preorder
« on: April 11, 2014, 10:29:52 AM »
That's what I paid for my 50L. I'll wait for the reviews first.

6
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: Speedlite Tutorials?
« on: April 11, 2014, 09:19:33 AM »
Flash is a powerful and confusing tool to use. Strobist was a huge help for me in the beginning but I went to find old film books on flash because they are cheap as chips, still relevant and you can have 10 books for the price of one. The fundamentals haven't changed if your using a speedlite or studio strobe.

7
- The 6D's -3 EV lowlight sensitivity is currently unmatched by any DSLR on the market

If you shoot lowlight, sunsets, night photography or landscape photography the lowlight AF performance on the 6D wins.

As I pointed out a few pages ago in this thread:

How do you define 'low light'?  For example, the difference between shooting at -2 EV and-3 EV could mean 1/15 s, f/2.8, ISO 51200 vs. 102400.  Neither is very usable from an IQ standpoint.  What most people call 'low light' is generally substantially brighter than either spec.

Long exposure night photograpy might benefit from that extra stop of AF capability (but in that situation, you are on a triod and probably using Live View to focus anyway).  Sunsets, landscapes and general shooting have plenty of light relative to the AF sensitivity of even lower end dSLRs. 

I think the -3 EV spec of the 6D is Canon saying 'we did it because we can, and to throw a bone after otherwise limiting AF functionality of this body' - it looks good on paper, but is of little practical benefit in the vast majority of shooting situations.

As I've said many times, due to the low noise of the 6D, the low light sensitivity of the center AF point, can be very useful in the majority of situations where you are shooting wildlife (or people) around, before, or after sunset.  Or else if you are shooting landscape hand-held, with an IS lens, up to an hour after sunset...or during a full moon.  Or if you are shooting inside a club, or outside on a dimly lit city street at night, that -3EV capability is very useful.

ISO 6400 is extremely usable for professional prints via the 6D (with a bit of post processing), and ISO's a bit above that are still useful.

As for bashing the other AF points on the 6D, you need to bash the 5D2's as well, because they were no better.  It might not still be on sale, but plenty of forum readers still own and use the 5D2.

For anyone shooting with strobes, or shooting fast sports action in well lit areas, the 5D3 or 1DX is the camera you need (or perhaps a D800 at low ISO).

If you're shooting portraits with an f/1.4 lens, wide open at f/1.4, and require peripheral AF points to be used (for focusing on eyes, etc.), then yes the 6D will not give consistent results.  But then the 1DX and 5D3 don't fare much better in that situation, which is why serious portrait photogs who shoot this way, either manually focus, or use live view.  Of course most of them are closing that fast lens down quite a bit, in which case there is more wiggle room for AF inaccuracies.

And besides, in that peripheral area of these lenses (other than the Zeiss Otus)...those eyes that you claim are so razor sharp...actually are not, and are suffering from coma and astigmatism.  It's unavoidable...especially with such lenses as the 50L and 85L.
This was fine until you mentioned the 5D3 not being much better than the 6D for f/1.4 portraits using the outer AF points. The 5D3 makes the 6D look broken doing this and it's a shame a 60D or a 7D would also make the 6D look broken.

8
It looks like camera shake. It could be that your mixing too much ambient w/flash. My ancient m500 Novatron's at full power had a duration of 1/300th and any decent strobe should stop camera shake. (provided you cut the ambient.)

9
Reviews / Re: Lomography's Petzval Lens - RLPhoto's First Impressions
« on: April 10, 2014, 09:16:18 PM »
I have the serial #108. It's perfectly passable wide open in the center and it give that look from the old design. Even @ f/8 the edges still aren't very sharp. Here is a f/8 Frame and the edges still have some of that swirl in them.

10
Lenses / Re: Which lens to go with
« on: April 10, 2014, 09:01:47 PM »
I'd stick with the F/4 until you start needing that f/2.8. A stop is alot more light but also alot more weight to lug around for something your not being paid for.

11
Lenses / Re: a 50mm dilemma.
« on: April 10, 2014, 08:25:22 PM »
I plan on buying this new 50mm Art to see if it could do what my 50L does. The 50L is meant for 50mm freaks and I fit into that category. It's not the sharpest 50mm but it's built to last through the rigors of pro use. The canon 1.8 is too flimsy, the canon 1.4 isn't much sharper than the 1.8, the old sigma 50mm had horrendous focus issues for me, and the 50L is expensive. In the end, I got my 50L second hand and never looked back because it does the job consistently for me.

As for the Art 50mm, it will be here in no time. Then you can really see what would be better for you.

12
Lenses / Re: Wait for Sigma 50mm Art or purchase Canon 135 f2L.
« on: April 09, 2014, 11:44:02 PM »
You forgot the portrait KING, Canon 85L II

I think my wallet forgot it ;-) I'm going to be in the $1100 range on this.

I also forgot to mention I'm shooting on a 6d.

Then forget about the true portrait king, the 200 f/2L. :o

13
Photography Technique / Re: What if we were still shooting slide film?
« on: April 09, 2014, 08:10:24 AM »
Ekta chrome and velvia 50 were my favorites. It was much cheaper then and still is cheaper to shoot MF film now. I used 501cm Hasselblad with an 80mm 2.8 for everything when I was a teen.

14
Lenses / Re: Wait for Sigma 50mm Art or purchase Canon 135 f2L.
« on: April 08, 2014, 11:08:58 PM »
50mm 1.4 < 135L 2.0 for most portraits.

50mm > 135L for everything else.

I'd say the 135L is better for indoor sports photography... and you could definitely get some quality images outdoors as well... but I guess we can see how the AF system holds up. 

Actually for outdoor sports... I wouldn't want to get too close and the 50 would be too close for comfort... so... but that is a small segment of your argument... and I agree... mostly... except for the canon 50's which I don't care for wide open... well... not the L... but I haven't used that one.

I was replying to the OP about portraiture.  :P

15
Software & Accessories / Re: Adobe Lightroom Mobile Version Official
« on: April 08, 2014, 11:02:21 PM »
No, sorry. Lr Mobile is only available for customers with an active subscription (CC or the PS/Lr Photography Program). Perpetual licenses of Lightroom cannot sync with it.

and why is that? We have paid for our perpetual LR licenses too,. FU arrogant Adobe!

And do take note: I will not rent your software or join an annual pay subscription model ... ever, no matter what you do. And if you push me and if no better software alternative becomes available, I will revert back to Canon DPP to process RAWs.

+1

Why are they arrogant? And how does that justify FU?

It is their software, they can choose to license it how they like, if you don't like the terms then just don't buy it but there is no point to talking like that to an actual Adobe representative. He isn't going to take you seriously if you talk like that, thanks for blowing any chance we have of reasonable dialog with Adobe here now.

I never knew adobe understood the concept of "reasonable dialog".  ::) ::) ::)

Well we will never find out here now will we? The first comment to them, within four minutes, was FU, hardly an effective way of engaging anybody. If I was a corporate rep assigned this forum I'd report back that they (us) are not worth any time or effort.

I choose not to do the CC thing, and am happy with the cost of that, not getting the latest features is, as far as I am concerned, very reasonable. Besides, as I have already linked to, there are very good and established LR Mobile competitors.

I guess Adobe ignored the massive backlash and took light on my +1. Good for them.

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