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EOS Bodies / Re: DxOMark Sensor Performance: Nikon vs. Canon
« on: October 16, 2012, 02:05:20 PM »
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OK, I have the 24-105 (haven't used it and may sell it for something else like a 24-70 ii) I also have the 35L, the 85 1.8, the 100 L macro 2.8, the 70-200 F4L. My EF-S lenses for my T4i are the 17-55 2.8 and the 10-22 Wide.
Thinking of the 50 1.2 or upgrading the 1.8 to the 1.2. Not sure I can justify the 85 upgrade, as the 1.8 is pretty sweet. Leaning toward the 50. I love my T4i and 35L combo, so on my new 5D3, the 50 will be close.
Or, do I stick with what I have since using a combo of my ASP-C and FF with current lenses, covers most focal lengths.
If it helps, I am an event photographer, I shoot models and families too. Looking to get into weddings and have already been asked to shoot 2 in 2013.
I have a 5d3 24-105, 70-200 2.8 is ii, 50mm 1.4. I want to start a photography business shooting family portraits at family outings or where ever they want to shoot. I like Candids and would love to go and capture those moments for families like first days at schools, parties, holidays, etc. just not sure how to get started and if I should do some free work to gain experience, etc. Any suggestions would be helpful.
haze is usually caused by the internal lubricants running over the optics over time. It's a common problem on older FD lenses and sometime isn't noticed at all. It looks like haze on this lens and may affect certain focusing distances.
Thanks Ramon. Now I'm sad! And you are most probably right, while converting the lens there was some lubricant all over the "back part" of the lens. I can't remember exactly where but I saw it. I will disassemble the new mount again and maybe wipe the visible and reachable lubricant away. Maybe this will help a bit, but I don't think so. The lubricant has gone probably already inside the lens, between the glass..do you have any advice how to get rid of the haze (if it'll get worse), except disassembling the whole lens?
//Chris
I haven't used filters with this lens, and it has a built in lens hood, no petal, but a cylindrical one. I thought the same first, that it's flare, but on the picture above there was only diffuse light shining through the covered sky, how can this cause flare at all?
I don't think it's fungus. When I look through the lens I just see a fair amount of dust particles, most are kinda transparent and there are just a couple of more whitely dust specks. I don't see any haze inside the lens or on the outer optics, although I have never seen a hazy lens before...
EDIT: And if it would be haze, it would be appear on more pictures, and not only on a very small percentage, or am I wrong with this assumption?
Hello!
I have a nFD 135mm f/2 lens converted to EF mount with the EdMika kit. I like the pictures I take with this lens, but from time to time the pictures have a weird "white fog" (is it ghosting?) overlaying the subject. I don't know why it happens, neither can I predict when it happens. I would appreciate it if anyone could give me a hint what is causing this white fog. I have shot very little with the lens, but I'm guessing the white fog thing happens only when the subject has a particular distance from the lens..is this possible? Please have a look at the picture. Thanks!
I had NOT paid ANY attention to the Canon/Nikon debate so far. But the pictures posted here by Mr. Risedal make me sit up and take notice.
And take notice is the only thing I can do as I have Mr. X, 3 and whole bunch or lenses already.
I was happily cruising along and then I see these photos...
So...one guy takes a few pictures with a specific agenda in mind, deliberately choosing an exposure that is not optimal (and not just a little off - several stops underexposed), and then processes them in ways which may be totally irrelevant to your images, and that makes you doubt your decision to shoot with Canon gear?
I agree with neuro, Michael is definitely doing something wrong in his processing. Look at my 7D example of recovery and that's not even the best sensor around but easily recovered by NR and good enough for a full-res prints.
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=9570.180
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/post/36865463
10 stops underexposure from a Pentax with Sony inside
Only a clot would underexpose 10-stops.
But it works, and doesn't with a Canon
I had NOT paid ANY attention to the Canon/Nikon debate so far. But the pictures posted here by Mr. Risedal make me sit up and take notice.
And take notice is the only thing I can do as I have Mr. X, 3 and whole bunch or lenses already.
I was happily cruising along and then I see these photos...
So...one guy takes a few pictures with a specific agenda in mind, deliberately choosing an exposure that is not optimal (and not just a little off - several stops underexposed), and then processes them in ways which may be totally irrelevant to your images, and that makes you doubt your decision to shoot with Canon gear?
I agree with neuro, Michael is definitely doing something wrong in his processing. Look at my 7D example of recovery and that's not even the best sensor around but easily recovered by NR and good enough for a full-res prints.
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=9570.180
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/post/36865463
10 stops underexposure from a Pentax with Sony inside
I had NOT paid ANY attention to the Canon/Nikon debate so far. But the pictures posted here by Mr. Risedal make me sit up and take notice.
And take notice is the only thing I can do as I have Mr. X, 3 and whole bunch or lenses already.
I was happily cruising along and then I see these photos...
So...one guy takes a few pictures with a specific agenda in mind, deliberately choosing an exposure that is not optimal (and not just a little off - several stops underexposed), and then processes them in ways which may be totally irrelevant to your images, and that makes you doubt your decision to shoot with Canon gear?
Canon is clearly superior on paper, can you prove that the nikon is superior in use? that is the question.
exact , so it is or vice versa
Since canon's system is better on paper, and you cannot prove the nikon is better in use. The obvious conclusion is
The Canon AF is better.
You use the same logic as Pentax did with a 22bit ADC some years ago, more is better
I say , when a proper test is done we can discusse the AF issue, or wait a year when all sports photographers have seen their keepers from different events, it was not so difficult to see the differences between the 1dmk3 and D3 regarding keepers and that was one of the reasons why 1000 of sports photographer went over to Nikon from 1dmk3
I never said quote "more is better" infact, you did.
You still have not provided any evidence proving the Nikon system superior.
You fail on your sports argument because canon gained all the sports togs on the 90's due again, ironically, to canons better AF performance.
You fail fanboy.
read what i writes ,and unlike several others I say nothing about AF but I'd love to have proof that one or the other would be better.
And when it comes to AF in D3 and 1dmk3 you need to study the subject a little.
Canon is clearly superior on paper, can you prove that the nikon is superior in use? that is the question.
exact , so it is or vice versa
Since canon's system is better on paper, and you cannot prove the nikon is better in use. The obvious conclusion is
The Canon AF is better.
You use the same logic as Pentax did with a 22bit ADC some years ago, more is better
I say , when a proper test is done we can discusse the AF issue, or wait a year when all sports photographers have seen their keepers from different events, it was not so difficult to see the differences between the 1dmk3 and D3 regarding keepers and that was one of the reasons why 1000 of sports photographer went over to Nikon from 1dmk3
Canon is clearly superior on paper, can you prove that the nikon is superior in use? that is the question.
exact , so it is or vice versa
Canon 61 pt AF > Nikon 51 pt AF. done.
Nonsense. Point count != superior AF. In my experience the 7D's AF is superior to the D7000's, practically on par with the earlier 45 point 1D bodies and several Nikon 51 point bodies, and it only has 19 points.
I don't honestly know who has the best AF right now because I don't spend sufficient time with the top tier bodies. But AF is an extremely complicated thing to objectively test, and subjective opinions are open to bias and error. AF performance can also be better on body A for situation 1, but better on body B for situation 2, etc, etc. Not to mention that lenses are at least as important as anything in the body, and it's a mistake to assume similar lenses from two manufacturers have similar AF.
Even with a case as one sided on paper as the 6D and D600 you can't conclusively say one body is always better than another. There's little point in discussing the top tier bodies unless you happen to own and shoot both regularly under a range of challenging conditions.

If we are discussing facts , please Meet me with the facts, I am happy to listen to you
Nikon and Canon have two different visions of how an AF system should be and function, and with what parameters. There are differences in response, starting up , stopping down and loops to hit the target in different scenes. Canon have chosen for example up to f-5, 6, Nikon to F-8.
It would take a very long time to test out which of the systems is generally best, it is probably not doable.
I would have to disagree with AF here, Canon beats Nikon.
I think AF is the biggest advantage canon has right now. That and lenses of course.
I never discuss AF , It should take a month to evaluate, but it would be interesting to know what you assumptions are based on when it comes to that Canon would have a better AF than Nikon.
When the D800 first came out I played with it a while and wasn't that impressed with the AF. There are reviews that also state the 5DIII has a better AF system (just look at the 1DX).
show me please. who has done a complete AF test? The AF is not the same in 5dmk3 and 1dx, 1dx has more sophisticated computing capacity
and I am sorry if some of you think I am offending you (Im tired of rabid people whatever they are Nikon or Canon people)
I enjoy discussing facts and regardless of which brand. I use Leica, Nikon and Canon 24x36mm cameras in my work