November 26, 2014, 01:48:23 AM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - RLPhoto

Pages: 1 ... 171 172 [173] 174 175 ... 235
2581
Software & Accessories / Re: iMac As Display / Calibration
« on: September 15, 2012, 01:24:51 PM »
@RLPhoto, one other thing that factors into this is I also do a fare bit of video editing as well which I use Final Cut. Hence my need for a machine running OSX. I'm not trying to make this into a OSX vs Windows thread but there are definitely advantages of OSX over Windows 7. The hardware is definitely more expensive but my thought with the iMac is the fact that it has a quality display that made it a better value than a different Mac. I just did a quick calculation of building my own computer and I'm looking at somewhere between $700-$800 including a license for Windows Home Premium. That means I have to build it and if there's any issue I have to solve those. If I want to run OSX then it's even more of a hassle and most likely at least one piece of hardware won't function exactly right. Not only that but now I have a big tower taking up room and most likely using more power than the iMac would. Thus I would like to at least save $200-$300 off of an iMac for the inconvience so I guess the real question is, does a $200 to $300 display beat the quality of iMac display?

You can purchase a Good Dell IPS monitor for around 300$ and won't be tied into proprietory hardware.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260047

As for video editing, If you like FCP then stick to it but don't believe that its the only option. AVID and CS5 Premiere pro run on Win Machines and are just as powerful. Windows software has been re-nouned for its longevity, just look at CS2. I know many designers that can't upgrade because they'd need a New OSX Software which they're computers can't run and so they'd have to purchase all new machines! That'd be over 12 New mac's in one company's case. I'm still cruzing my CS3 software right now.  8)

Towers allow better cooling than the Sandwiched, laptop esque IMac. We have a few still here at the office I work at and they do get very hot.

Another Point is Murphys Law, and Mac parts are MUCH MUCH more expensive.

Its your call, all I'm pointing out is the Facts and nothing more.

2582
Mac Pro 8-core 3.2 (5400)
32 Gigs RAM
3TB Black Caviar boot
3TB Samsung array (3x1)
ATI 5870 Video Card
27" Apple Cinema (2560x1440)
24" Apple Cinema (1920x1200)
Wacom tablet
i1Pro II Spectro

Whewww. How much did that set you back?  :o

2583
Lenses / Re: Need advice on buying equipment
« on: September 15, 2012, 12:05:40 PM »
i couldnt find this anywhere on the forum so i figured i would use this as my first post.
I currently have a 50mm 1.8, 24-105 f4, 70-200mm 2.8, 5d mark ii, 60d, 580ex ii, h4n
i have money i have to spend at Best buy and i can not decide what to get. I have thought about a studio flash or new lens.
the flash i am looking at is http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Elinchrom+-+Style+500/500BXRi+Studio+Strobe+Light+Kit/2663916.p?id=1218343206104&skuId=2663916&st=elinchrom&cp=1&lp=8
I dont exactly have a lens picked out but here is what i shoot.
I shoot equal amounts of video and pictures, I only make money off of pictures currently, for pictures i mostly do weddings, senior pic and family pics.
For video i do a wide range of things from short documentaries for my church to promo video for groups in my town.
i am open to recommendations other then just strobes or lens but those seem to be where i end up. I do want something  that can still help me make money or improve my video skill where i can start getting paid more for those things. I do believe in buying good quality equipment that will last. I will eventually buy the 70-200mm 2.8 is ii in trade for the non-is i have now. any wisdom from people smarter than me would be amazingly helpful. Love this forum and read through most post about everyday! thanks for you help!

I'd get PCB Eisenstein's over these elinhromes anyday. They're a more versatile mono-light.

Who use's a light meter anymore? I certainly don't and most pro I know don't either. I could see it if you are shooting MF film or Large Format Film for landscapes but 35MM for portraits? Nah, learn the RGB histogram and be freed.

2584
Software & Accessories / Re: iMac As Display / Calibration
« on: September 15, 2012, 11:58:09 AM »
So I'm thinking of getting the next iMac when it comes out. I've seen some post on here of people that use it for a monitor. I guess a few questions.

#1 - I'm currently using an eMachine monitor that I got for like $90 running on a Hackintosh I built. Overall everything works pretty well for what it is but I do realize I need something better 1 - for speed and 2 - for more calibrated coloring. The iMac for around $1200 seems like the best route to go. It'll be 3-4 times faster than my current system and I would assume the display will be much better. The alternative would be to build either a regular windows computer or another hackintosh and buy a nice external monitor. I wouldn't want to spend quite as much if I went this route as it's more work on my part and it has its faults (system not monitor). All that to say, would the iMac be equal to or better than what I could get otherwise for say $900-$1000?

#2 - If I do go with an iMac, I've read that the display panels are high quality but the profile they're setup with is not accurate so I will need to calibrate the display. I have two options here. Either 1 - Buy a calibrator in the $150 to $200 range or 2 - rent the colormunki from lensrentals. I guess this comes down to, can I get something in the $150 to $200 price range that will get me pretty close color wise or do I need something higher end like the colormunki. If I did rent the colormunki, how often do I need to calibrate my monitor? Would once a year be enough or how often are we talking? I like that the colormunki can also calibrate printers as well since I have a Canon iP4920 that tends to not match what I see on the screen. Thanks for your input.

I don't understand Mac's anymore. All the Adobe software used to be exclusive mac programs but now they run under windows. Why Spend More $$$ when you could use that money alone to also buy the software? I've just installed Windows 7 Pro and its the best thing since Windows XP pro. Stable, Fast, and you don't have to keep buying new versions every year. Hopefully, Win 7 will last a decade like Win XP did.

My system is older but still tweaking my PSD's and CR2's just fine.

Intel E6600 - OC'ed to 2.93ghz
Nvidia GTS 8800 - 640MB ram
4GB of 667mhz DDR2 RAM
El Cheapo Motherboard - Biostar
JBOD hard disk's

Anyway, any monitor your using can be improved with calibration. I use the Spyder 3 Elite right now but newer versions are out already. IPS monitors are the best, but meh, Unless everyone viewing your photos has IPS screens calibrated, They won't look there best anyway. I calibrate Weekly and my Acer-Asus monitors have been color accurate to our print company.

Your mileage may vary, but IMO, I'd never buy a mac.

2585
Do anyone uses a neck/shoulder strap other than the one that comes w/the ESO bodies?  I'm looking for a more comfortable one and would like to know for those of you that uses one other than the one provided by Canon upon purchase of a camera body.  I also have a slight concern on the safety/strenght of some that have easy release clips/buckles.  Are they secure?  I'm shooting w/a 5D M2 and main usage is for walking around the city and vacation and I could use one that's more comforting to the neck.  Thanks for your input!

Black Rapid Straps. Done.

2586
Lenses / Re: What buy? A 24mm f/1.4L II or a 24-70mm f/2.8L II
« on: September 15, 2012, 11:48:26 AM »
Hello,

This is my first post to the forum.  My interest is shooting at 24mm (on a 5D Mark III) with no flash.  Nighttime cityscapes, museum exhibits, indoor group shots, poorly lit indoor events (e.g., cocktail parties, banquets), and outdoor evening events (e.g. social gatherings in patios, courtyards, backyards, etc.) would be the subjects.  Would the prime lens be sharper at 24mm f/2.8 than the zoom at 24mm f/2.8?

I would appreciate ideas and opinions anyone might offer (cost is not a factor in my decision).

Apparently, the 24-70 II is the sharpest 24mm canon has ever made but, It's still F/2.8.

A 24mm 1.4L II will let 4x more light in than the 24-70L II which makes it great for capturing Night time stuff.

Its a great party lens at weddings as its Fast and Wide and compact.

I love my 24L II and wouldn't trade it for a 24-70L II.

2587
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS 6D Specs Leaked?
« on: September 15, 2012, 11:38:15 AM »
Lets hope canon doesn't go the way Kodak Went... and we all know how that turned out.  ::)

2588
Lenses / Re: Zoom-walking, Walk-zooming
« on: September 15, 2012, 11:36:40 AM »
Hi everyone! Been reading posts on this forum for some time now, and have quite a high regard for most of the canonrumors forum's members' opinion and knowledge, so decided to join and post a topic which has been on my mind for everlong. Based on what I read on many photographers blogs and websites (cfr. 35mm - 50mm poll) people claim that by walking forward or backward one changes the field of view of the lens mounted on ones camera (don't like the angle my 35mm lens is giving me, no worries, just walk forward and magically change it into a 50mm lens or back off a bit and it becomes a 28mm...) So in a way, moving closer or further away from an subject equals zooming in or out with your prime. I have noticed a few very clever people here on the cr forum, and would be very happy if one of them can finally put this myth to rest in a 'scientific' way!

Zooming with a lens will not affect PERSPECTIVE, Now moving the camera while keeping the focal length the same will change perspective.

Thats why us Prime users get very familiar with each lens we have, because we zoom with our feet and know what the perspective the lens will give us at different distances.

Yes, I was not clear enough:
1. to maintain the same size of the subject (if there is one) on the first plan, when you move your camera, you will change the perspective
2. shooting from the same place, no matter what the focal is, the perspective will not be changed.
3. to achieve best results for specific subjects and situation and to avoid strange perspective on your photo, you should consider specific focal range, because in other case the photographed subject and it's surrounding especially background might look otherwise, than you thought it would
4. Considering "3." you cannot freely zoom with your feet because when you are limited to specific focal range, so you are also limited to specific distance to the subject

RLPhoto, do you agree now?

I zoom with my feet, It just changes perspective.  ::)

2589
Lighting / Re: Direct Flash - How to make it useful?
« on: September 15, 2012, 11:33:32 AM »
Ok CR users, I bought a Wing light for my flashes. I liked the idea and will attempt to remember to post here about it when I receive it.
Wow that's pretty expensive for what it seems to be. I'll be interested to see how it works out for you.

Not much more expensive that the Tupperware, or other diffusers.  :P

2590
Lighting / Re: Direct Flash - How to make it useful?
« on: September 15, 2012, 10:18:35 AM »
Ok CR users, I bought a Wing light for my flashes. I liked the idea and will attempt to remember to post here about it when I receive it.

2591
Lenses / Re: Zoom-walking, Walk-zooming
« on: September 15, 2012, 09:24:59 AM »
Hi everyone! Been reading posts on this forum for some time now, and have quite a high regard for most of the canonrumors forum's members' opinion and knowledge, so decided to join and post a topic which has been on my mind for everlong. Based on what I read on many photographers blogs and websites (cfr. 35mm - 50mm poll) people claim that by walking forward or backward one changes the field of view of the lens mounted on ones camera (don't like the angle my 35mm lens is giving me, no worries, just walk forward and magically change it into a 50mm lens or back off a bit and it becomes a 28mm...) So in a way, moving closer or further away from an subject equals zooming in or out with your prime. I have noticed a few very clever people here on the cr forum, and would be very happy if one of them can finally put this myth to rest in a 'scientific' way!

Zooming with a lens will not affect PERSPECTIVE, Now moving the camera while keeping the focal length the same will change perspective.

Thats why us Prime users get very familiar with each lens we have, because we zoom with our feet and know what the perspective the lens will give us at different distances.

2592
Lighting / Re: Need Assistance on how to improve skin tones with strobes
« on: September 14, 2012, 04:43:28 PM »
Just an addition. Why use ISO 50? It will clip you highlights sooner. Why not use ND's Instead @ ISO 100?

Anyway, heres an quick edit done with just a curves adjustment. I believe you Underexposed him about 1/2 stop.

2593
Lenses / Re: Canon EF 50 F1.2L And EF 35 F1.4L Sharpest Settings
« on: September 14, 2012, 04:23:29 PM »
Yes, Its at its best at F/8, but meh, What lens isn't?

My 200 f/2 on my 1DX isn't sharpest at f/8.   ;D



Really? Because I wouldn't be able to tell from F/2 from F/8 sharpness wise on that particular animal.  ::)

2594
Lenses / Poll: 35mm Vs 50mm Primes
« on: September 14, 2012, 04:11:00 PM »
This focal length generally will determine the first set of primes someone will buy.

EX:

35mm - 85mm - 135mm

24mm - 50mm - 135mm

What is you preferred standard lens choice?

2595
Lenses / Re: Should I sell 35L f/1.4 to get 24-70II?
« on: September 14, 2012, 04:01:03 PM »
Unequivocally, yes. The 35mm is so close to 50mm in fov that I don't see the point in a 35mm prime costing 13x more. 24-70 is a much better choice.

You are wise beyond your years.

Pages: 1 ... 171 172 [173] 174 175 ... 235