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Messages - drjlo

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Lenses / Re: How many years before we see a 50L II
« on: July 26, 2014, 03:11:12 PM »
It's actually the field of curvature and is especially prominent at close distances from about f/2.8 to f/4.5.  The lens will back-focus and there is pretty much nothing you can do about it.

What, people use the 50L at narrower than f/1.8 or so ??  ;)

Lenses / Re: Selling my two Zeiss lenses. Your advice?
« on: July 26, 2014, 03:05:49 PM »
Canon... has very similar qualities and has autofocus, is lighter and cheaper.

That is exactly how I feel about Zeiss lenses I've had in the past.  They are sturdy and cool-looking, but they don't do anything Canon lenses can't do (and Sigma it turns out), and they are heavy, expensive, and lack auto-focus  :-\

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: A7r Arrived - Meeting New Buddies
« on: July 16, 2014, 08:24:07 PM »

I definitely had to learn this the hard way even though it was something I fully suspected prior to ordering. Lol.

Anyhow, based on my very brief experiences so far, I'm finding that the only thing I really enjoy about this thing is the manual focus aids. Quite honestly, I wonder how much more I would like the xt1 if it were possible to mount EF lenses and maintain aperture control.

Funny thing is as soon as I returned my A7R, I installed Magic Lantern for the first time on my 5D III, including the manual focus aids.  I don't understand why Canon doesn't provide focus peaking, etc, in stock firmware  :o

Looking back, what I really enjoyed about my Sony experience was the FE 55mm f/1.8 lens.  Oh, that was a sweet lens; Wish Canon had a 50 mm at that price with comparable color, contrast, sharpness, bokeh, and AF accuracy.  Its compact size was fantastic, too, but I guess Canon's version cannot be as small due to the mirror box  :'(

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: A7r Arrived - Meeting New Buddies
« on: July 16, 2014, 06:41:01 PM »

-IQ is not noticeably better than my other rigs as some would have you believe.
-The DR madness has yet to make a difference in any of my first 100 shots. I did however deliberately under and over expose a few shots to see how flexible the files would be in post (they were very clean and resolved a lot of detail). This however doesn't really translate into better photos as it was only a real tangible benefit when I deliberately used the wrong exposure for my shots. Time will tell if I actually enjoy having the extra DR as much as I hoped.

Yup, these are things one cannot convince oneself without first-hand experience.

I, too, remember taking an underexposed shot from A7R, pushing the shadows up more than I ever do, feeling impressed and giddy.  However, this was totally useless in my normal shooting with competent exposure.  Same thing with 36 MP resolution; it's neat to zoom into little hairs and such, but it didn't improve my photography at all. 

THE Most important information seems missing:  improved AF speed with the Mk IV adapter? 

This is disappointing as well:
"A third party zoom lens may need to be registered with the Smart Adapter first in order to detect its maximum aperture. Autofocus is disabled for most third-party lenses.
Only Canon-branded lenses introduced in or after 2006 are officially supported. Autofocus may be disabled for older Canon lenses and most third-party lenses, including most Sigma, Tamron and Tokina lenses and all Contax N lenses modified by Conurus."

The auto-gamma is one single massive improvement in V4, in my opinion.

Wow, DPP 4.0 Auto-Gamma has been an eye-opener for me.  I have never liked the results of "Auto" anything previously, including Photoshop's "Auto" tone, contrast, and color, but DPP 4.0 Auto-Gamma is giving me some well-judged, natural-appearing results.  I just used it for a set of photo's shot under mid-day sun by poolside with strong sun highlights and building shadows, and Auto-Gamma gave me fast, natural results, which I copied the recipe and pasted on to others for a very efficient post-processing workflow  8)

Lenses / Re: Canon 135L F2.0 - Am I expecting too much
« on: June 29, 2014, 01:22:00 AM »
135L is a wonderful lens but getting rather old.  Use Canon DPP's DLO (Digital Lens Optimizer) which is the best I've found at correcting aberrations, improving clarity, etc. 

Third Party Manufacturers / Re: D810!!!
« on: June 28, 2014, 01:21:28 PM »
Someones (Damien Demolder ) personal opinion on the D810:


Just IMO, but that article just seems to be trying very hard to come up with all kinds of tiny reasons to justify why the D810 is the latest and greatest, even better than the "best-ever" D800/E, making it greatest-than-greatest-ever.  :P

Photography Technique / Re: The definition of insanity
« on: June 25, 2014, 03:02:57 PM »
Instead, I should have left the bulky, heavy, expensive, theft-prone camera pack (replete with 2 bodies, 6 lenses, tripod, filters, timers, flash, etc.) at home, and simply taken my 5D3 and 24-105.

What's really insane is thinking 5D3+24-105 is the non-bulky, portable setup  ;D

Seriously though, for "fun" vacations, I am thinking I might pick up the Sony RX100 III or Pansonic FZ1000

I didn't buy one because my evaluation of that lens was that it was a specialist small DOF tool for F/1.2 to F/2, apertures at which I rarely shoot. 

My money is on Canon 50 IS, which, if the 35mm F/2 IS is any indicator, will be 90% as sharp and half the weight of the Art lens at that focal length.  That combination -- Size + Sharpness + IS -- is a winner for me

Can't argue with the solid logic here..  I just hope Canon doesn't lose its mind and gives us 50 f/2.8 IS, as I am strongly hoping for at leaset f/2 IS, f/1.8 IS better yet.   

I myself cannot recall the last time I shot my 50L above F/2 and usually just leave it at f/1.8, which is my personal sweet spot for that lens for the purpose it's great for, e.g. shooting people shots who are not necessarily infant-skinned or model-makeup'd..

Lenses / Re: EF 16-35 F/4L IS corner samples & comparison
« on: June 22, 2014, 04:36:21 PM »
Time to sell the TS-E 17.  Better sharpness, better handling and operation, ability to use filters, and cheaper.  Yes please!

Umm, 16-35 f/4 can "Tilt-Shift"?

I think really clean ISO1600-12800 is much more important to many of us than useless high ISO number thrown into the spec sheet of some Sonys and Nikons. 

Many would call 12800 unreasonable, too.  Personally, if 6400 is clean, that's all I would want or need.

DPR conclusion:

"The Sony A7S enables the use of incredibly high ISOs, including some unavailable to most cameras. When shooting at incredibly low light levels, the A7S will most likely give you significantly better results than any camera that does not natively shoot at these ISOs. There are also some advantages to be had over the higher native ISOs of the cameras we tested: we see the A7S overtake the A7R in normalized shadow noise performance at ISOs above 6400 in our tests. At more moderately high ISOs (6400 and below) as well as in brighter regions of images - where image quality is determined primarily by how much total light is captured - the normalized ISO performance of the A7S will be similar to that of full-frame cameras of its generation."


Canon software developers have re-engineered the processing algorithms to increase the freedom in tonal rendering. By adjusting highlights, it is now possible to reproduce tones such as those in clouds and peoples’ faces that would previously have appeared washed out."

Hmm, I wonder how Canon managed this in software (if indeed true?), without actually increasing sensor's dynamic range in highlights.

I'm a fan of DPP (and Digital Lens Optimizer), and this new version looks very good so far.  I do hope DPP's slowness in converting RAW to JPEG has become faster as well as how slow it is to "transfer to photoshop" to use some specific Photoshop function/plug-in while in DPP  :'(


I find you have to put it in live view mode, then press the delete button to access the Magic Lantern menus. You're presented with a list of modules, all of which are deactivated.. scroll through them with the rear control wheel and use the set button to activate the ones you want (I haven't bothered with the video ones, or the game  ;) ). Switch it off, then back on and the modules you've activated are working. Access the ML menus, and then set up the features you want.  You'll be using the control dials, the Set button and the Quick Control button to set the values and it seems straightforward and intuitive enough once you know which controls to use

This paragraph should be placed in Magic Lantern's website because that's exactly what confused me the first time I installed ML.  I'm sure it's not just us !

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