April 19, 2014, 07:30:18 PM

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Messages - cayenne

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1
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art Gets Reviewed
« on: April 16, 2014, 03:47:28 PM »
I'm about to put my 50L on Ebay.... and it has nothing to do with this new 50mm Art.

I took my kids to Flower Field in Carlsbad yesterday. I carried A7r + FE 55mm. With Eye-focus feature in A7r, compose the shot is so easy. At wide open, I couldn't miss a shot. However, the Bokeh is not smooth as my 50L.

Bottom line is, I'm willing to trade that bokeh for light weight ;)

What's your asking price on the 50L?

:)

Asking price is $1599 ;D....just kidding. I'm not in the hurry to sell my 50L, maybe not at all.

Current market only has few f1.2 lenses with AF. If the new Sigma is REALLY that good, then I don't mind adding a 3rd 50mm lens to my bag. At this moment, I strongly believe I have enough weapons to fight most challenging photography battles - from super sharp to smooth Bokeh etc... ;)


LOL..ok.

So far…best prices on good condition used 50L's I've seen are in the $1250-$1295 range…..slightly more for refurbe from the Canon site from time to time….

I gotta see how much tax I gotta pay first….no word from CPA yet, so, maybe I don't owe….

C

2
I'm really thinking about trying this.

Is there now a better, straightforward, one stop to find it…guide to installing Magic Lantern on a 5D3?

Last time I started looking into it, I found out of date guides, wrong versions….and read through about 300 posts on the forums and I still didn't really feel safe in trying to install this.

So, does anyone have links to a simple at least fairly up to date install guide with steps laid out 1,2,3,4…n?

Last time I was reading through, I thought about disarming a bomb with instructions like.

"Ok, now…find and cut the green wire…"

BUT FIRST……

:D

C

3
Just installed on 1.2.3.  So far works perfectly.  Little complaints from me other than the slow start up time after sleep.

Messin around with Dual ISO now.

Does the slow start up time after sleep go away after you remove the ML from the camera?

I'd heard that was a problem with the former version on the 5D3….that it set the boot flag perm. and long sleep times wouldn't go away even when ML was removed.

I know on this they say the boot flag situation is fixed, but wondering if sleep/boot times return to normal once you remove ML?

Thanks in advance,
cayenne

4
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art Gets Reviewed
« on: April 11, 2014, 10:29:49 AM »
I'm about to put my 50L on Ebay.... and it has nothing to do with this new 50mm Art.

I took my kids to Flower Field in Carlsbad yesterday. I carried A7r + FE 55mm. With Eye-focus feature in A7r, compose the shot is so easy. At wide open, I couldn't miss a shot. However, the Bokeh is not smooth as my 50L.

Bottom line is, I'm willing to trade that bokeh for light weight ;)

What's your asking price on the 50L?

:)

5
I tried magic lantern before on the 5D3 , the bootflag thing was terrible, it made your camera boot up slow even if you took the card out.

This new version is great, you take the card out with magic lantern on,put another card in and the camera wakes up instantly.

I really like the dot tune as well, done all my lenses, +15 on a canon 300mm f4 IS  ;D

That is fantastic news!!  I've been waiting on this to try ML out on my 5D3.

I'm likely gonna let it mature just a 'tad' longer...since this is a new version working on the newer Canon firmware.

Like with most things on this level, I rarely test the water with BOTH feet.

;)

6
Just installed on 1.2.3.  So far works perfectly.  Little complaints from me other than the slow start up time after sleep.

Messin around with Dual ISO now.
Dang, was hoping that would be fixed.

Can you confirm that the slow wake times go away after you remove ML?

7
"Not alpha, not beta, nor zeta, just a bleeding edge that happens to work for me. It might work for you or it might not. (note that my standards are fairly high, so what I call bleeding edge, others may call semi-stable or whatever)"

These Magic Lantern disclaimers are about as unstable as ML hacks.

I'm going to look into this more tho...

I've been holding off on my 5D3 with ML so far, due to that problem with having to set an unchangeable boot flag, which also seemed to increase boot and wakeup times significantly for the camera even after ML was uninstalled.

This sounds exciting!! I'll be researching this MUCH more before I try it out, but this does sound exciting.

I've been dying to try out the camera functions for stills and of course for RAW video!!!

cayenne

8
Lenses / Re: just hit the purchase button
« on: March 14, 2014, 09:43:48 AM »
Congrats!  We got a larger tax return but instead of buying the camera equipment we wanted to, we have to pay it on a new baby and insurance and copays and all that other fun stuff that comes along with it.

Geez, man...get your priorities in order, eh?

;)

9
HDR - High Dynamic Range / Re: Post your HDR images:
« on: March 13, 2014, 09:28:49 AM »

10
Video & Movie / Re: The 2013 New Orleans Bridal Crawl Video
« on: March 12, 2014, 01:44:08 PM »
I've just put this up on Vimeo too, I think the quality is better there….

http://vimeo.com/user16498390/neworleansbridalcrawl2014promo


Do ya'll think Vimeo is better than YT?


cayenne



Very nice job on the video.

I was interested to see how you did on the focusing as it is all manual.

Did you use any kind of rig?

I am just starting to play with video on the 60D I just bought.  I never shot much video with the T3i I had because I was discouraged by the manual focus.  However, having played around with it over the weekend, manual focus is easier (not easy - just easier) than I thought it would be.  Still need much practice, but I am encouraged by the initial results.

I mostly played with the 50 1.8 and the Sigma 10-20 which gives some unique results.

I like being able to move the focus where you want and not where the camera thinks it should be.


Thank you for watching!
No, no rig...I shot pretty much EVERYTHING using the camera mounted to my manfroto monopod with a video head on it.

Everything was manually focused by me as I was shooting it.  My secret? Editing.
:)

I would move, focus and shoot....move, focus shoot...etc.  When editing, I looked for action I liked and then hoped I had sections of that part that were in focus.  This was truly a run and gun type thing.

Yes, most all of the wide shots were with the Rokinon 14mm.  Most everything else was with the canon 50L f/1.2 lens.  I rented it for this, and really fell in love with it.

I"m currently saving to buy the 50L.

But with manual focus...I just would set the mono pod down, and try to focus through live view. If I had time, I'd magnify the focus to get sharp as I could, and then hit record immediately...and got what I could.

My problem is, I'm horribly nearsighted, but with age, somehow getting farsighted too. So, during this or any shoot I do with manual focus, I find I canno wear my contacts so I wear my glasses, and when focusing, I look over my glasses to get very close to back of camera to focus, but when moving about, I just do it best I can and hope I get good focus shots.

For instance the clip of all the brides dancing on stage where the guys run up with them, the focus isn't great on that...and I had to crop in which makes it worse, but I liked the scene so much that I just threw it in for a short time. I was actually using the 14mm with that I think..and it was on my monopod  which I was holding up way over my head about 10ft or more in the air total with my height figured in.

They were happy with the video and asked me to do again this coming year. This year, I'll get footage of people with interviews and all too...and try for something more than just a montage.

Thank you,

cayenne


11
Video & Movie / Re: Time Reloaded - 5D2
« on: March 10, 2014, 04:49:22 PM »
Very cool!!

How did you get your camera set up to stay in place all day into the night? Some looked like public places where leaving a camera might not be safe...?

12
Canon General / Re: 19 types of photographers. Which are you?
« on: March 07, 2014, 12:04:59 PM »


9. Dabbled in weddings. Might consider it again. Seems a lot of work for not much money.


Well, don't do any weddings that are less that about $4k-$5K bottom end. Tell everyone else that they are not your client.

:)

13
Canon General / Re: 19 types of photographers. Which are you?
« on: March 06, 2014, 05:32:49 PM »
Definitely #10....

I get paid for it, but who wants to hang pictures of cable runs, inner assemblies of groundstations, worn bearings, or cracked welds on thier wall....

My heart is in landscape and nature.

Hmm..well, maybe do some HDR on them...or take them into Photoshop, and turn them into paintings..watercolor, abstract...etc.

I'm finding there are all sorts of ways to turn non interesting (and in my case, some neat ones but messed up focus or blown out parts) into useful things by painting them IN PS....it cuts down on photos that I liked but would usually throw out due to tech or other difficulties and make them still useful.

At the very least...gives an excuse to play with and try to learn more about PS.

cayenne

14
Software & Accessories / Re: Large Prints from RAW files
« on: March 06, 2014, 05:28:07 PM »
I regularly make large prints and can help you with workflow questions, but please let me know what your specific questions are - capture, upsizing, sharpening? Generically, the capture is most important - you need to use a tripod, timer/remote release, and the best apertures and techniques to get the sharpest capture possible.  Mild sharpening should be done in Camera RAW and after re-sizing to the printing size (usually at 300dpi) for the appropriate printing media.  Photoshop CC has much improved re-sizing quality and sufficient for most printing. 

Also, if you are serious about printing, then yes, a calibrated monitor (using a colorimeter or spectrophotometer) is necessary.  You can calibrate other ways for free, but you'll still end up with color casts and brightness issues.  The easiest way to make high-quality large prints is to calibrate your monitor, work in AdobeRGB, and use a printer who supports ICC profiles.  If you're printing yourself, the difficulty and expense goes up considerably.

Just curious, why would you not do all your work in the best possible color space, like ProPhoto RGB....?

Thanks in advance,

cayenne
That's a great question and while ProPhoto RGB is considerably larger than AdobeRGB, there are very few printers who can take advantage of the extra gamut that it offers.  This is especially true of commercial CMYK presses since Hexachrome never really caught on (due to cost).  When the full imaging chain - camera, software, monitors, and printers are all true 16-bit devices, it will make sense, but the reality is that even Adobe RGB's extra colors get clipped along the path in most cases.  I'm not saying it's not possible to get the full benefits of the ProPhoto, but it takes a very sophisticated set up and most of the industry has adopted AdobeRGB (and sRGB for consumer work) as the standard.  There's certainly no harm in using ProPhoto and saving files in it, but the real-world advantages aren't really there in most cases. 

It's sort of like 4k video - sure, you can record in it, but it gobbles up lots of space, takes much more horsepower to edit, and in the end, there are very ways to distribute and view it.

The great thing about shooting RAW is that you can go back five years from now (if ProPhoto catches on) and export into that space  :)
Thanks for the reply!!

Would you recommend maybe doing your work within PS/LR...doing ProPhoto while manipulating the images, but when exporting to print...sending it out as CMYK?

I'd think that way, you'd have the best of both worlds...keeping large color space while working, and archiving for maybe later higher quality printing abilities to come as you alluded to, but only drop in color space quality when sending to print, and dropping to appropriate levels as can be handled by print shop?

Thoughts?

cayenne

15
Software & Accessories / Re: Large Prints from RAW files
« on: March 06, 2014, 01:48:01 PM »
I regularly make large prints and can help you with workflow questions, but please let me know what your specific questions are - capture, upsizing, sharpening? Generically, the capture is most important - you need to use a tripod, timer/remote release, and the best apertures and techniques to get the sharpest capture possible.  Mild sharpening should be done in Camera RAW and after re-sizing to the printing size (usually at 300dpi) for the appropriate printing media.  Photoshop CC has much improved re-sizing quality and sufficient for most printing. 

Also, if you are serious about printing, then yes, a calibrated monitor (using a colorimeter or spectrophotometer) is necessary.  You can calibrate other ways for free, but you'll still end up with color casts and brightness issues.  The easiest way to make high-quality large prints is to calibrate your monitor, work in AdobeRGB, and use a printer who supports ICC profiles.  If you're printing yourself, the difficulty and expense goes up considerably.

Just curious, why would you not do all your work in the best possible color space, like ProPhoto RGB....?

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

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