Messages

346

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Is there embedded (exif like) data on Video from the 5D3?

« on: February 03, 2013, 11:51:42 AM »

EOS FCP plug in.

Cayenne is using FCPX, so I don't think that will work in this case.  I want to say either Aperture and Lightroom will give you some info at least.  What are you trying to accomplish Cayenne?

Well, just was thinking if publishing to youtube or USENET, and I'd prefer to remove all identifiable information.

Just a privacy concern for the most part.

347

Lighting / Re: Advice on lighting set up in kitchen for video with 5D3

« on: February 01, 2013, 07:28:41 PM »

I used a lot of CFL's in my light kit. I love them because of how cool (meaning, not hot) they are. I even bought several boxes at different color temps to help me match to the practicals when shooting in various locations. For example, my daughter's school has fluoros that are around 3500k, so I can use my 3500k's to match there. In my house, I have some household "warm" CFL's that are around 2700k and come in handy rather than trying to gel or switch out the bulbs in the practicals.

Having said that, there is cost in terms of color that you will pay when using CFLs. In my experience, that cost in terms of color rendering gets higher, the lower (warmer) the temp of the CFL due to them having a lower CRI. Most "photo" and "full spectrum" CFL's are 5000k or 5500k (or higher). So, I've now bought a set of gets, rather than having the different temp CFL's. The only high CRI CFL's that I have found in a "tungsten" temp are those by KinoFlo (at $25 per 26 watt CFL ~ 100 watt incadescent equivalent). I haven't bought them yet, but they will be the next bulbs I buy.

Since you are shooting food (I assume, since its a cooking show), I think you'll really want to capture as full a color spectrum as possible. Therefore, gelling the CFL's you have, as suggested by Dantana, is probably preferred to getting warmer CFL's that are likely to have a lower CRI. Of course, if you bought your current CFL's at home improvement store, they may or may not have a high CRI.

B&H has a lot of gels. You want to look for CTO gels. Each 12"x20" sheet cost about $6, plus shipping.

Also, a handy web reference that I have found for calculating the gels you need is this:
http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/mired-shift-calculator.html

Hey, thank you for the great input.

Can you forgive a noob question, but what is CRI? What does it stand for and how does it affect things and how does it work with respect to color temperature?

Again, thank you for the great input, you and everyone else so far!!

C

348

EOS Bodies - For Video / Is there embedded (exif like) data on Video from the 5D3?

« on: February 01, 2013, 03:57:33 PM »

Hi all,

I was wondering, is there an exif data analog when it comes to video shot with a DSLR, say the 5D3?

I was wondering if I need to think about doing anything to strip out such data if posting to the internet such as on youtube, etc?

If there is this data...what would one use to strip it out?

cayenne

349

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: can anyone share a basic easy multicam video set up with 5d3s?

« on: February 01, 2013, 03:52:32 PM »

Oh! and i would definitely shoot IPB

Why IPB rather than ALI?

I've shot with both and have found that ALL-I is not any better in terms of quality, but is only better for editing, and only if you edit with the raw footage and don't do any transcode or conversion. If you do transcode the for editing, then save the space on your memory card if your shooting a long day and use IBP. I have found ALL-I doesn't help color correction and actually has more artifacts than IBP. If you are editing in FCP X or Premier, and only use the the h.264 footage for editing out of camera, then ALL-I will be more friendly for editing - for the most part the only benefit, which is great for come people. Someone else's opinion may differ from mine, but that is just my experience.

Hmm....well, I just dump my 'raw' footage from the camera into FCPX and try to do roundtrip with Davinci Resolve Lite.  I don't do any transcoding.

On one thread on the forums here, I'd found that you didn't need to transcode anything before using FCPX (I believe it was Axelrod that told me about that).

So, if doing it the way I do it...ALI-I is the way to go?

C

350

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: can anyone share a basic easy multicam video set up with 5d3s?

« on: February 01, 2013, 10:40:15 AM »

Oh! and i would definitely shoot IPB

Why IPB rather than ALI?

351

Lighting / Re: Advice on lighting set up in kitchen for video with 5D3

« on: February 01, 2013, 10:37:53 AM »

The closer you can get all of your lights to one color temp, the easier it will be to correct. You can only set your white balance to one value in camera, so if you have two very different temps of lights in a scene, it's going to be noticeable and hard to correct.

You could try getting warmer cfls, or gels for the cfls to make them warmer to match the practicals in the scene.

You could try going the other way, but you lose less light making a cold lamp warm than a warm lamp cool, if that makes sense.

Hmm..so, I guess my old assumptions that different color temp lights all blending together to make a single temp doesn't hold water, eh?


Interesting on the losing light less with warmer lights thing...thanks for that!! Ok, I'll look to go cooler on the CFL clamp lights. I can save those bulbs for adding light to say my patio shots that are shadowed, but in daylight outside the patio roof...

Ok...so, looks like the halogens for the track lighting will stay, and I'll get warmer CFLs for my more portable clamp lights.

Any other suggestions out there?

C

352

Software & Accessories / Re: Which iMac

« on: February 01, 2013, 10:33:42 AM »

You could always build a hackintosh...

http://nofilmschool.com/build-a-hackintosh/

353

Lighting / Advice on lighting set up in kitchen for video with 5D3

« on: January 31, 2013, 02:57:15 PM »

Hi all,

I'd posted some of this in passing while discussing other stuff on another thread, but figured this might warrant its own post here.

I'm trying to shoot video, a self done (one man band) cooking show with my 5D3.

I'm trying to learn lighting...and I'd bought myself some clamp lights to try to do a little DIY style. I'd gotten CFLs all at a 5000K temperature.

I've had a heck of a time getting white balance set.

I've had a bit of luck using one of those insta-disks..that you put over the lens, snap an image and use that to set the 18% grey and do custom color balance. That seems to really help!! I've had more success in some test footage I shot recently, while also using the marvels picture style, and actually slightly underexposing.

Doing all that, I actually seemed to do better on in camera white balance, and left myself some good range for after shoot color correction and grading.

That being said....

I figure if I could light the kitchen with its native lights at the same temperature as my clamp lights (on stands, AC vents, you name it, I clamp to it)....I'd have a WHOLE lot less variation and ease in PP.

Again, right now, my clamp lights, all are currently CFL bulbs 5000K.

I've started researching, my regular lights are track lighting, and use U10 halogens which appear to be about 2700K. This is a rental house, so I gotta work with what I have.

I've been looking around for what will fit in a U10 socket...and choices are limited. I can't seem to find any halogens that are higher than about 3000-3200K. I found some LED ones that go near 5000K, but man, those things are like $20-$25 each...and I'd need about 11 of them?!?

Now, I'd gone into this, assuming it would be best to try to light the whole thing in the daylight, sunlight temperature range....am I wrong there? Does it matter, as long as everything is the same temp?

Should I look into getting softer CFL light bulbs for my clamp on lights?

Is there an easy way to shoot with mixed color temp lights and I need to know the trick?

Thanks in advance!!!

cayenne

354

Lenses / Re: Rebate Ending Soon? When's The Next One?

« on: January 31, 2013, 02:47:01 PM »

Yeah...I was wanting to get the 600EX-RT flash for $60, and I have some crutchfield reward points which would knock off another $40-$50 off it....

but man, I'm still paying off my xmas present to myself, the 70-200mm f2.6 IS....ahh, that thing is sure fun!!

355

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: How to start the video recording remote on 5D M3?

« on: January 31, 2013, 02:44:38 PM »

Don't forget to do manual white balance, and you also can use some gels to get all the lighting to be more or less close to the same color temp, which will make it a lot easier to get good looking footage. Don't forget you can use just about anything to flag (block) to get the lighting right where you want it, or use some poster board to reflect light to fill in the side or bottom or your face, or somewhere else. There's a ton you can do with lighting. And use gaffer's tape, a lot easier to work with than duct tape for anything you may not need to permanently tape together.

I have tried to look for some kind of meter to read color temperature of a room, but man, those things are $$$$$$$$!!

How does one manually 'read' the color temperature of the room? I'm trying to figure the best way to get my kitchen all ONE color temp. It is lit with U10 type halogen lights on track lighting (I'm renting so can't change too many things drastically).

The clamp lights, I bought all CFLs for them...they are all 5000K, and I think the halogens are all about 2700K. I can't find replacements for the halogens any higher than 3000K.

So, not sure what to do, I kinda wanted to shoot things in the sunlight range, but not sure how to compromise this. I'm limited on plugs and outlets, so can't light the whole thing with clamp lights, not to mention, it is a b!tch as it is, trying to keep plugs and cords and lights OUT of frame when shooting.



C   

356

Video & Movie / Re: Film shot on a 5D Mark III and Glidecam in Italy

« on: January 31, 2013, 02:40:10 PM »

Do you have some kind of quick release system for your glidecam/camera combo?

357

HDR - High Dynamic Range / Re: Post your HDR images:

« on: January 31, 2013, 02:39:01 PM »

Dang...I gotta learn how to do this....

358

Software & Accessories / Re: Which iMac

« on: January 31, 2013, 02:38:27 PM »

Thanks.  So you feel the stock i5 on the 27" is good enough.  What is the advantages of i7 then?

This might be too little info too late, but the Core i7 can hyperthread while the core i5 can not. That means the Core i7 functions as an 8 core processor, while the Core i5 functions as a 4 core processor. I'd spend the extra couple of hundred bucks on the Core i7. The Core i5 is quite old at this point, and I'm surprised Apple offers it in a newly revamped machine like the iMac.

The i5 is a great inexpensive alternative. But honestly for photo and video, just like a previous poster said, you'll the good everything. GPU should def be atleast 1GB. You can definitely get by with the i5 if you don't have the money after getting the GPU, but if you can, get both.

Why does everybody always say a super duper graphics card is mandatory? In both Lightroom and DPP it doesn't help with rendering. I guess if the software you use can take advantage of it, that's one thing but CPUs are king of the hill when it comes to RAW conversion.

It certainly seems to help with video.....I can really slow down Davinci Resolve Lite on my MBP, and it is i7 processor, 16GB ram...but needs some help on the GPU side of the house.

I've heard of these breakout boxes that are out there..something you can load up with video cards and somehow hook into your computer and have it use those GPUs too?

Anyone familiar with that? I'm guessing it would have to be thunderbolt for my MBP to use it, but sure sounds interesting.

I'm still trying to find out what these breakout boxes are called and how they work.

But rendering video, GPU sure seems to help, I believe the Adobe video product is tied in heavily with Nvidia Cuda tech if you have it?

cayenne

359

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: can anyone share a basic easy multicam video set up with 5d3s?

« on: January 31, 2013, 02:31:32 PM »

the question is about shooting multicam PRO footage and importing into a PRO sequencer where the clips line up to the exact TIME CODE recording during session for both online and offline PROFESSIONAL editing, same process used in film and cinema, PROFESSIONAL standards require TIMECODE, if you you want entry level equipment that does not REQUIRE to be up to those standards like the minimum of 100mbs, Timecode - digi clock, SDI connectors then a pro-summer camera would be priced at the correct range for you.

You can make pro looking videos, even money doing them but PROFESSIONAL level work requires PROFESSIONAL equipment up to  par with networks,  i think someone does not understand what PROFESSIONAL means, and yes anyone can buy PROFESSIONAL sony, canon, Panasonic cameras with TIME CODE and all that syncs with TV networks and up scaled hardware software for Hollywood Suites.

Anyway, i a not trying to sound PROFESSIONAL, i like to work with my clients as their friend, i tend to make them more then happy to pay me, its working out nice.

I guess ill fiddle with the TIMECODE on the canon 5d3 here, as i mentioned before it seems un stable, but this time ill try using the canon "EOS utility" software and see the camea settings and live mode as well as reading the manual.

Ok Mr. Professional, we get it, but you don't have to be a prick about it.  And last time I checked "professional" means doing something as your main source of income.  It doesn't mean that ANY video project ever done by mankind has to meet broadcast standards, content has plenty of other destinations nowadays.  And yes, in broadcast/film industry in general timecode is absolutely critical and very useful. But this is just some guy with a couple 5D3's (which aren't technically "professional video cameras") and not that much experience.  He can turn both of those cameras on and off all night, and as long as he has a clean audio source can sync them up in a matter of minutes without much thought, so why not let him do that?  You're acting like this is the most important job of his life and is going to be broadcasted worldwide and acting like we are trying to tell him to use his cameras underwater or something.  My favorite part about film/video is that it doesn't matter what was going on behind the scenes as long as the final product looks good, so who cares?

+1 I totally agree

Heck, I'd just be excited to have a 2nd or 3rd camera and a friend to go shoot something with!!!



cayenne

360

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: How to start the video recording remote on 5D M3?

« on: January 30, 2013, 04:26:07 PM »

Some decent lighting will let you stop down which will increase the DoF which will make it easier to get the subject in focus. And you can always put a mark on the floor or something, and start recording, go stand in place, wait for a second or two, then begin which will let you edit out the start & end.

Yep...right now, I'm working on learning more about lighting. I have some stands and I've bought different sized clamp lights from the hardware store, and a few diffusers and clamps.

I'm trying to do somewhat of a 3 point lighting...but am limited to the layout of my kitchen..and the mixed lights there (halogen track lighting) and my clamp lights are CFLs...all in the daylight (5500 I think?) range.

Like I mentioned, I got something heavy to clamp a large, tall ruler onto....which I used instead of marking the floors...with this I can know where my head,  nose and chin are...and compose the scene knowing better where I'll stand..and focus on that ruler...

Do something like this...no big deal hitting start manually...walking into the scene..doing your bit...walking to hit stop.

That's what editing is for....and since I don't have a clap board, I often use that beginning to talk to describe anything about the scene I want to remind myself about during editing....