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Messages - cayenne

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Yes, use a tripod for the steadiest shot. But, if it's a clear night, it will be a relatively short exposure!
A good start for the full moon is the normal daylight, "sunny sixteen", rule. After all, the same sun that lights the earth from about 93 million miles away is doing the same to our moon!

Since your longest focal length is only 200mm, you might want to combine images for a sequence of the moon as it moves across the sky. If you take an exposure every ten minutes, it will have moved about four or five diameters. Include some recognizable feature on the ground, make sure your tripod is locked in place and you should have a great souvenir of your night with the Supermoon.

Thank you!!

I'll give this a try!!

Any other suggestions out there?



Hello all,

I just heard on the news that tonight there is going to be a 'super moon'  with the moon coming very close to earth and will be larger and brighter than usual.

Can someone give me advice on ways to shoot this tonight? I have a 5D3.

Lenses I have:

70-200L f/2/8 II
85mm f/1.8
24-105L f/4
17-40mm L f/4

Robikon 14mm

Would HDR be a way to go? I've not taken long 'bulb' type exposures...I'm not sure how long to keep it open, and what settings to use...

So, I'd very much appreciate some suggestions for my first try at some astral photography tonight!!

Thanks in advance,


I use Flickr, debating between extending my Pro membership there or moving to 500px.

Can you give some plusses and minuses for 500px that you are basing your decision upon?

Thank you,


What's everyone's opinion of flickr, especially with regard to latest changes, offering 1TB of space...versus other photo hosting/sharing sites.

How are the TOS (Terms Of Service) there? Do you risk any rights to your images posted there?
What do you think about other vs what Flickr offers?

I'm thinking of starting to put some online to share now with friends, but possibly in the future (until I get my own servers going at home again) hosting for possible revenue generation in the future.

Thanks in advance,


Hi all,

Does anyone have a link to a good general purpose model release form?

I'm starting to shoot some folks for headshots and even some video for auditions for things here in New Orleans. Starting with friends right my services for using resulting images to build my portfolio.

I know I need to get some type of model release form signed by them giving me full rights to do as I need with the photos I shoot and give them.

Can someone give me some advice on what a Model Release form needs to say, and where I could find one to download off the net?

Thank you in advance,


I recently got this sling bag and so far, it is a WINNER!!

Tamrac 5768 Velocity 8x Photo Sling Pack - Gray/Burgundy

I just the other day, had my 5D3 with kit lens (24-1-5) in it with one 600EX-RT.
I could also, if removing one more velcro insert, have had the 70-200L f/2.8 on instead of my kit lens, with flash and it would work...

Perfect size, just enough compartments, easy to car on back and quickly sling around to front for quick access.



Pricewatch Deals / Re: 600EX-RT speedlite deals?
« on: June 20, 2013, 03:50:17 PM »
For goodness sake you two, I was trying to make the people that missed out feel better  ::)

But neither of you saved $100 so don't kid yourselves. RGF paid 10% sales tax, that is $37.30, plus shipping for a real bottom line total of closer to $430 per flash, a $66 saving without the batteries and charger, and who couldn't use another set of rechargeables? I have a million Eneloops but can always use more. But, for me, the killer of the deal is the short warranty on refurb, I use my six 600's a lot and love the fact that I have a 12 month warranty on such an item, resale value is higher on non refurb too should buying one be a commitment issue.

But you guys just keep rubbing it in to those who feel bad for missing out...........

I saved a 100$ per light. I didn't pay shipping and only 8.125% tax in TX. Plus I sold my OLD 580II's for more than I paid for them! I'll get the same for my 600's if I decide to sell them.

I was surprised to pay taxes...but I used the code for free shipping on my 600's.


Lenses / Re: AFMA - Is is really necessary?
« on: June 20, 2013, 03:47:38 PM »
Well, some great comments here on my original post, thanks for the input and opinions.

I've purchased the Plus version of FoCal and will be giving it a go tonight.
From what I read you can't do fully automatic calibration with the 5D3 but it's as close and you can get.

Anyone know if I add my 1.4 TC to my 70-200 will the camera store separate AFMA data from it than when I use the 70-20 on it's own?

I'm looking and reading about this too....I have a 5D3.

I'm curious, since you have to do the adjustments manually, why did you get the PLUS version rather than the standard version?

I read the FAQ page about 'why they say you should still buy the higher versions', but it didn't make much sense to me what else you get out of the plus vs the standard version really.

Curious your thoughts on the Plus version and why you got it...?

Thanks in advance,



Yes, that is correct, your camera reads reflected light. If you are shooting full manual (including manual ISO), then the AE-lock doesn't have any real affect, however you can still see if the camera thinks the spot is over/under exposed.

Lightmeters are often used these days as incident light meters (the white dome, light that is incoming onto the subject), however depending on model they can also be used to read reflected light. This is where the spot comes in. Generally reflectance light meters read about a 30-degree angle, however spot meters read smaller angles to get finer control over which part of the subject you are getting a reflectance reading off of. This can be very helpful for landscape photography where you can't get a good incident light reading off of your subject (or multiple readings), but you want to take multiple readings off of different portions of the subject. For example take a reading of the sky, then the side of a cliff, then further down where the trees start, then down in the valley, then the river down at the bottom of the valley. Each one will have a different reading, and so once you get all of them you can get a good idea of what your overall exposure needs to be. Or you can choose which parts to under/over expose because a certain area is most important to you that you need to get exactly right.

Thank you for the info!!

Ok, new term for me...reading the light at an 'angle'.  I'm gonna have to do some research on that.

Well, this gives me a lot of info to consider and more to learn.

Thank you everyone for all the great answers and input!!


Lenses / Re: AFMA - Is is really necessary?
« on: June 19, 2013, 02:46:17 PM »
Yes, it matters.  Granted, sometimes a lens-body combo needs no AFMA, but the more lenses you have....

I'd recommend Reikan FoCal.  You've got north of $7K in gear, a small investment in software to get the most from that gear is more than worthwhile, IMO.

I've kinda of been waiting for Magic Lantern's next stable release for the 5D3, and hoping they will have the DotTune auto AFMA parts working....

Would that not do the same as the Focal product?


I'm with docholliday, whatever you get it's really nice to have the ability to spot meter. I picked up an old Gossen Luna Pro with the 16 & 7.5 degree spot, and it's pretty great.

The other alternative, is set your camera to spot meter and use the center circle as the meter and use the AE-Lock to lock the exposure to what you want. If you're in a studio or have strobes setup around, the incident light meter (the white dome) is generally nicer and better than trying to nail it in camera without some trial an error.

Pardon the noob questions...

First, I'm on manual pretty much 99.999% of the time...trying to learn to use my camera that way. So, with that...there is no AE locking necessary, right?

Secondly, ok, I know how to set spot metering on my camera, but that is for metering reflected light, right?

On a light meter, it is 'incidental' light that it reads....right?  So, you spot meter for incidental light too?

 I'm confused, I thought the point of getting a handheld light meter, was to get a more true metering of the light than you can get off your camera, due to the reflective vs incidental readings...

Or is there more to 'spot metering' than I know about? 

Again, sorry for what is likely a HUGE noob question, but I figure if I don't ask, I don't learn.



I guess what country , or even what city you live in makes a difference.

I live in New Orleans,  if someone approaches you to talk about most anything, camera included, it is usually met with a friendly answer, a smile, and could at any time end up with making a new friend, at least in my experience living here many years....

Of course if you are in a rush or busy, that maybe not happen as with above, but for the majority of the time, if anyone speaks to me when I'm out and about, I'm assuming I'll be having at least a short, pleasant conversation with them...especially if at a bar here.

And heck, are ya'll that worried about someone coming right up to you and stealing your camera off your neck? Again, I live in NOLA, where crime *is* a problem, and frankly, I'm not that concerned about it...I just stay out of the areas where it is a problem, especially at night.

I dunno...just struck me as quite odd to hear so many seem to actually almost take offense at someone bothering to speak to them in public at all. I know in the NE of the US, that people aren't quite as friendly as we are in general in the southern US, but I just figured it was mostly up there, but sounds like this is prevalent in much of the world?

If so...sad.  I'm used to walking about, smiling and very often saying something, even if briefly passing a stranger and something bout them catches my eye. Especially if a pretty girl (of course), but even with other men, I'll say hi, or smile or say "Hey..nice xyz"...that just seems common to me.

But I am saddened a bit when I hear so much negativity with simply being outgoing and friendly to those you meet or even just pass by during life.

When someone takes interest in my stuff or what I'm doing, I'm flattered, and have quite often ended up talking about that for at least a short time...

My $0.02,


I'm starting to think about the 478D.

I don't have pocket wizards, I've started down the path with the canon radio speedlites.

I am at some point, thinking of getting an alien bee or two to play with too...but will cross that bridge when I get to it.

I'm guessing there's no way to integrate any of the current light meters with the current radio Canon is putting out (wondering why no one has integrated with that yet....)

But I saw on the CL workshops, guys using the light meters and hitting the shots 1st time most of the time with proper exposure, rather than chimping around (as they termed it) with shoot, look at back of camera, shoot, look at back...repeat 2-4 more times.

I was thinking a good light meter would help me get things right more the first time or two I shot the image, which would be a good thing, no?

I saw that the Sekonic 478 also has cine, but also settings/readings for working with HDSLR video footage, which I do shoot a, I"m starting  to narrow down to the 478D.....

Sure wish there was some way to get it to work natively with Canon's radio. The 478DR can be upgraded via flash updates it appears, I wonder if Sekonic would ever get around to having the radio work with other gear besides just PW?


Lighting / Re: Flash Newbie: Flash Photography Concept
« on: June 19, 2013, 10:39:37 AM »
+1 to the strobist blog.  You'll learn a lot from it, even go full manual on your flash setup.  I use TTL most of the time when flash is on-camera but if I want to be extra creative, I use full manual off-camera.  You can control the shadows and where would you want to put your light or how strong you want your flash this way.  Just refer to the pics you'll find in the blog to know what I mean.

One of the best pieces of advice I've heard so far, with regard to TTL/ from Syl Arena. He says he only uses ETTL, when the camera lens are subject are generally moving and changing distances from each other. Which kind of makes sense. 

If run and gun, it helps..but if you're taking time to set up shots, there's not much need for it...manual is the way to go.


EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: ALL-I or IPB?
« on: June 18, 2013, 01:35:37 PM »
My apologies for digging up an older thread, but I have noticed one thing when shooting video with my 5D Mark III and then editing on a Mac/FCP.

At work, all of my video editing is done on a Mac and FCP 7. Normally, I use a Sony HXR-NX5U, which FCP logs and transfers just fine. I'm aware that DSLR footage isn't native to FCP7 and as such, must be transcoded to ProRes for efficient editing. If I can't transcode directly via FCP, I use MPEG Streamclip.

With that said, I recently shot some footage on my 5D3 @ 1080p/24fps/ALL-I. I loaded the footage into MPEG Streamclip (latest build)....and the program promptly crashed. I tried again and got to the export screen, but it crashed again. I then loaded up FCP7 and entered the Log/Transfer menu, to transcode the ALL-I footage to ProRes. Same thing happened-- FCP crashed when trying to bring up the ALL-I footage.

So I went out and reshot the clips, this time in IPB. I brought the 5D3 IPB footage back to my Mac, loaded up MPEG Streamclip and voila: Footage was converted to ProRes MOV files without issue or crashing.

Now, I may be completely oblivious to some work around, or I may be having a "Master of the Obvious" moment, but for FCP/Mac users, I would advise shooting IPB to avoid transcoding headaches.

Of course, if you use Adobe Premiere 5.0/higher (as I do at home on my PC), then all this is bypassed, due to Premiere's native DSLR capabilities :).

You might consider upgrading to the newer handles the files either way just fine.

I've had no problems with it using FCPX so crashing, and you don't have to bother transcoding if you don't want to....



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