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Messages - cayenne

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601
Canon General / Re: How much would you pay?
« on: April 29, 2013, 04:12:43 PM »
Interesting. Cook hasn't really proven himself (at least to me) to be a terribly effective leader in the wake of Jobs death. Now Jobs was definitely a visionary, if also a huge @sshole from time to time, but he seemed to get the best out of his people and they either loved him or hated him for it.  Cook seems almost like a place holder until apple can invent the iSteve.  Personally I'd rather meet Warren Buffet or michael Bloomberg (buffet also auctions off his time for a charity each year if I remember).

I'd like to meet Keith Richards...I'd like to learn from him how to be bulletproof, and seemingly survive almost anything.

602
For your MBP, Thunderbolt is the way to go. No, you can't daisy-chain from your monitor, but if you select the right bits, you can have the monitor at the end of the chain.

There are several Thunderbolt Hubs (plug that into Google, and look at this:http://www.macrumors.com/2013/04/09/caldigit-thunderbolt-station-adds-to-growing-ranks-of-thunderbolt-docks/) out there these days. Belkin, Matrox, CalDigit and a few others. Some have many different ports, others are one-trick ponies.

I have a Retina MBP, so I have two TB ports, and USB3. For external storage, I went with LaCie Thunderbolt to ESATA hubs ($180-$200 plus cables. I got my last as a refurb from LaCie for $99.) These connect to your TB bus, and you can connect two external drives via ESATA. I chose this mainly because I already had drives with ESATA (I was using the FW800 ports on them previously). They also have two TB ports, so I now have one TB-ESATA daisy-chained off another TB-ESATA. I could still plug in my external monitor with a MDP-DVI adapter, or another TB device.

Now I didn't really need extra USB3 ports (I use a Belkin hub for those), but many of the TB hubs will have some combination of FW800, Ethernet, USB3, USB2, MDP, ESATA, etc. You'll need to shop around for the one that you like best. One added bonus, is if you take the MBP places, you only have to disconect one TB cable!

I have to say that in addition to a much faster MBP (quad i7/16GB/512GB), the drive I/O speed has dramatically improved by putting everything on either USB3 or ESATA. Dumping 1000+ RAWs, with rename and back up, from a 32GB card is very quick with the Hoodman USB3 reader and UDMA7 CF cards. Oh, and my only solid-state storage is in the MBP with just the system and apps. Everything else is on spinning platters...
Hmm...very interesting. A question bout your drives...are these single, external drives in enclosures you're talking about? Just trying to get a picture of what exactly you're plugging into the thunderbolt hub.

Thanks!

C

603
I have a 12TB NAS but its not the way to go for editing directly from it.  Even with two 1 GB network cables in parallel, its slow for editing.   I won't even edit still directly from it unless its urgent.
Its great for storing files and backups, which is what I use it for.
What do you recommend for working from them, that is external to the computer (in my case a laptop)?

TIA,

cayenne

604
I have a great suggestion for you to look into.  I wouldn't suggest RAID 1 either because what you gain in speed, you lose in protection.  Why back up only to lose it all- right?



sek



I'm a little confused.....maybe I need to review my knowledge of RAID levels.

I thought RAID 1 was mirroring.....so, if I lose one drive, I still have the mirrored one there to rebuild with?

cayenne

605
Dang, wish I'd seen that Lacie option earlier....

I found a sale and went with this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822108095

Just to have something to play with and give me room for now.

I'll try it on the network as a NAS, but if that isn't speedy enough hooked to my router, I was thinking of trying to maybe get a crossover cable, and plug it DIRECTLY into my macbook pro's ethernet port. If both are gigabit...I'd think that would be fast enough to work with?

I'd just use wireless on the mac for network connectivity in place of the wired ethernet port....wondering if that might work?

Anyway, this is a stopgap measure, and I'll be able to use this unit repurposed later....the deal ended today with the code, I got it for $184 which was about as cheap as I'd seen around anywhere.

I should get it in on Sat and will play with it. Again, if it doesn't work fast enough, I can use it on the network for other things.

Thanks for the insight so far....I'm still researching a better end solution...

cayenne

606
When you say "scratch disk", I think of the setting for scratch disk in photoshop.  It needs to be very fast and if you use a external disk, USB and Firewire are painfully slow.

You might be better off getting a large fast SSD, a 960GB Crucial SSD costs $600.

http://www.crucial.com/store/listmodule/SSD/~983040~~M500~/list.html

Perhaps I'm using the wrong terminology...

Basically the situation is, the hardisk in my macbookpro (750GB?) is getting full. I only have about 35-60GB free at any given time here lately.

I want to have my RAW photo projects and Video projects I'm working on...on some sort of external drive setup, that would be fast enough to keep up with working on them....like with FCPX editing/rendering...with Davinci Resolve Lite...etc.

But..sounds like you're saying that since I likely only have USB and firewire on my computer, they won't be fast enough?

Hmm...wonder if there is any possible way I could hook something externally on the one thunderbolt connector, and then, chain off that storage unit...to a displayport adapter for my monitor?

I just gotta do something, as that my internal harddrive is just too full and most of it seems to be from my installed applications and iTunes maybe. I think it is frankly mostly installed apps.

I need to set up somehow externally for photo and video work...

C

607
Is this possibly streamed...so that some of us in the US might could view it?

C

608
Hi All,

My set up:
macbook pro (late 2011 model, 16GB ram), Dell U2711 monitor.

Now, as you can imagine, shooting all RAW, making multiple versions of some images in Post...and doing lots of video, editing it...versions after color grading, etc.

Well, I'm eating LOTS of disk space...that's not even keeping in mind, the software I've installed on said computer (aperture, fcpx, plugins, VMware, GIMP...etc, etc).

I'm having a terrible time keeping disk space open. As soon as I finish a project, I just move all the files off to an external single drive I plug into a USB connected drive docking station.

I'm thinking that I need some sort of fairly speedy, maybe dual disk NAS type thing....?  Maybe do it RAID 1 (mirrored) there.

I'm trying to fix up a separate computer to build a freeNAS system for large backups, haven't gotten that up and running yet, but I think for right now...I just need a large, fast disk storage system for holding and working on my current few projects.

Does anyone have a suggestion for that?

My macbookpro, has one thunderbolt connector on it...I'd think that would be the way to go, however, I'm using that with a thunderbolt to displayport cable/adapter...to run the Dell U2711 monitor, and I don't think there is a way to chain off that...?

So, likely firewire or sadly, USB2 is about my only option for connecting....

Anyway, does anyone have a suggestion on what I might look towards?

Thanks in advance!!

cayenne

609
I can't help you with the stacking thing unfortunately
but I gotta ask why use f/8?
I use 2.8 on my 16-35 with the focus set to infinity..
That way you can keep your ISO down to a minimum and get less noise at
the same amount of time.. using the 600 rule...
If you have a 30 Sec exposure using ISO 6400 @ f/8 you can go down to
ISO 800 @ f/2.8 and still have a 30 sec exposure..
You'll still get the sharpness you need..

What is the 600 rule?

Thanks,

C
A rule of thumb method to calculate the maximum exposure time, for a particular focal length, before star trails become noticeable. It's simply 600 / focal length = exposure time (in seconds).

For a 50mm lens, 600/50 = 12 seconds.
For a 15mm lens, 600/15 = 40 seconds.

By keeping the exposure to those times or less, the stars appear as dots, not trails.

THANK YOU!!!

Wow...talk about a VERY informative post for a noob!!!!

Thank you very much!

C

ps. Do you have any insight into what stacking photos are? Is that similar to HDR photography?

610
Technical Support / Re: Urgent Help Requested:Photos for my website
« on: April 23, 2013, 08:46:14 PM »
With what the others have said...

What Post Processing tools do you have? DPP? Adobe (Photoshop and/or Lightroom), Aperture 3 (Mac)....?

What tools do you have at your disposal to use to process the images you've taken already?

As the others have mentioned, take your RAW images and work from there....

HTH,

cayenne

611
I got the 17-40mm....I found a good used one for like $500 I think and figure that would hold me till I went for a 16-35 later.

But honestly, I love the lens, this and my 24-105 are usually my daytime walk around lenses.

I actually wanted something even more UWA to play with, and got the rokinon 14mm...which is about the last on the edge of rectilinear.

that thing is WIIIIIDE...but has proven for something relatively inexpensive (I caught a special sale for like $199 I think?)....it is a LOT of fun to play with. And for $25 I found a program to correct for the problems the lens is knowns to have. But I've had a LOT of fun playing with this UWA lens, and the 17-40mm, is quite easy to walk around with and use.

My next lens..I'm debating between the 24mm tilt shift, or a 50mm L f 1.2.....I'm leaning towards the 24mm TS here lately, I like the wide angle stuff.

My $0.02,

cayenne

612
I gave a really long answer to this in the other thread.  ALL-I is optimized for editing but the file sizes are larger.  IPB uses a different compression method but the image quality is as good or better than ALL-I.  If your system is fast enough to edit IPB files without conversion then shoot IPB, if not then shoot ALL-I. 

If you are looking for better image quality out of ALL-I you aren't going to get it.

I've got a macbook pro (late 2011 model), and 16GB ram...I'll give it a try next time with IPB files and see how it goes.

Thanks!

C

613
I can't help you with the stacking thing unfortunately
but I gotta ask why use f/8?
I use 2.8 on my 16-35 with the focus set to infinity..
That way you can keep your ISO down to a minimum and get less noise at
the same amount of time.. using the 600 rule...
If you have a 30 Sec exposure using ISO 6400 @ f/8 you can go down to
ISO 800 @ f/2.8 and still have a 30 sec exposure..
You'll still get the sharpness you need..

What is the 600 rule?

Thanks,

C

614
Hi,

I do some nightphotography on my 5D3. It is still amateurish because one always can improve.
After having seen this tutoring video

Curves and Levels - Easy 123 - Photoshop Astrophotography Tutorial

I am keen to do this myself. It is about curves and levels in Photoshop to enhance the data. My version is CS 2.

But there arise a few questions:

I downloaded deep sky stacker. stacked seven colour pictures: copies of the same photograph to give it a try.

This guy in the video starts with a greyscaled stacked picture. Others I've seen worked at RGB mode.
How is he getting a greyscale type of stacked photographs as mine turned out to be colour? It never looked like his in the beginning. Here's my slightly enhanced original picture

Z96A3724bMASTER by Peter Hauri, on Flickr
I guess it kinda deals with RGB channels. But I have no clue how to do it, even my curves and levels don't react the same way as his.

Is it a presetting in PS which he applied without mentioning it?
How can I do it in CS 2?

Thanks for any technical help.

Just another question: at what ISOs are you taking nightsky photographs for stacking purposes?

I currently take them applying 600 rule at ISO 6400 to 12800, f/8 with a 16-35 USM II lens.

Cheers and thanks in advance, Peter

What exactly is a stacked photograph? How do you take one? I didn't see that in the video...

Thanks,

cayenne

615

3. Bayphoto (I'll have to look that up, first I've heard of them)
4. Smugmug (new to me too).


How is it you have not heard of these?  Bayphoto's ads are literally all throughout every USA photo magazine...and smugmug has had a web presence for quite a few years.

Pick up a photography magazine every now and then, at least!

I'm a total noob. I've not really looked at any photog magazines, I get most of my info from the web on sites and forums like this....hence my questions.

I'm working to learn shooting, and PP...I've not printed any images (except one LARGE 36x48 from a special at a printing site I got a discount from on a CreativeLive seminar).....

So, I was asking here about other sites.

LOL...one reason I'd not gone for many photography magazines, is that I'd read that most of them these days are mostly ADs, and run short on actual helpful articles.

Anyway, I'd appreciate answers to my older original question about the different places I'd asked about from earlier mentions in the thread.

Ok, from this thread, I've gathered that the top places to get prints are (in no particular order):

1. Adorama
2. Costco
3. Bayphoto (I'll have to look that up, first I've heard of them)
4. Smugmug (new to me too).

Are these the top places you send your stuff? Would you add another to the list?

Where out of these are the best to send for just regular prints you'd give grandma?
Where are the best (for price and product) to get something for wall hanging (print, canvas, acrylic) if going bit up to maybe 36x48" ?




cayenne

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