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Messages - jaayres20

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1
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Dynamic Range Question
« on: June 28, 2014, 10:41:12 AM »
Looking back I didn't ask my question very well.  This is definitely not the way I would process the image.  The only reason why I did for this example is to show that the tonal information was in the image, an overexposed image.  If that is the case then what would more dynamic range in a camera sensor do for me in this case?  Would having more make the image better if there is already too much? 

2
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Dynamic Range Question
« on: June 28, 2014, 12:37:44 AM »
I really promise I am not trying to start an argument, I am just curious from those folks who have enjoyed cameras with high dynamic range what they think about this image.  I took this at a recent wedding with my 5D3 and it was overexposed because I didn't get the settings dialed in just right from when they came out of a much darker church.  So with my limited DR capabilities of my 5D3 I was able to recover everything in the photograph to the point that it looks kinda bad.  Much like a bad HDR.  So with more DR would the image have looked better (less HDR like and more natural) or would I have just been able to overexpose it more and still be able to recover the details in the highlights?  The top is straight out of the camera and the bottom is with the highlight recover slider maxed out and the shadows bumped up.

3
I didn't take the time to read the other posts so if this has already been mentioned then I am sorry.  Servo mode is not a great idea for a dark first dance.  I am not confident in my 1DX having the best success for that either.  You should always avoid using that when it is dark if possible.  Always use one shot so that the AF assist beam on the flash will help you focus.  I have a 1DX and 5D3 and even though they have great AF performance, it is not good enough to shoot sharp images consistently in the dark.  The AF assist beam will work wonders for you, but is only available in one shot focus drive mode.  Also, focus on something light, like the grooms white shirt next to his black jacket.  Also use the center AF points.  They are the most sensitive.     

4
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Give me reasons to by the 200 f/2
« on: April 16, 2014, 04:34:18 PM »
I am a wedding photographer and I already have a lot of great gear that helps me do my job well.  I have a 1DX, a 5D3, 70-200 f/2.8L IS II, 24-70L II, 85mm 1.2L, 50mm 1.2L, 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro, 90mm f/2.8 TS, and I just picked up the 300mm f/4L IS.  I obviously have everything I need to do a good job at any wedding, however I just like to buy gear and get the best I can as long as I can justify buying it.  Sure it would be really nice to have the 400mm f/2.8 for when I am stuck in the balcony of the church but I can't justify the price of the lens for that reason. 

I am so close to buying the 200mm f/2 but I am actually having a hard time justifying the price.  I have looked into it so much and I know it is superb, but will it be worth the $6000?  I don't know?  I love to shoot wide open and I love lens compression.  I shoot with the 85 at 1.2 always and I try to stand back and use my 70-200 at 200mm or sometimes I even use the 300mm for portraits.

I also like the 300mm for when I am stuck in the back of the church during ceremonies, but I would probably have to sell it if I picked up the 200 f/2.  I am curious how the 200 f/2 would preform with the 1.4xIII or 2xIII teleconverters in terms of IQ in relation to the 300 f/4L.  I am not terribly concerned about focus speed because the 300 f/4 isn't super fast and I mostly use it when everything is still.

Anyone have any thoughts?  Especially those of you who use the 70-200 f/2.8L IS and the 200mm f/2.  Also if by chance any of you have any knowledge on how the IQ of the 200mm f/2 with the 1.4III teleconverter relates to the 300mm f/4L?   

5
Lighting / Re: Cheetah Light CL-180 vs Canon 600ex-rt
« on: February 06, 2014, 11:09:18 AM »
Have you tried using different batteries in your lights? Say NiHM vs Lithium. How about taking them in for service?

I have always used rechargeable batteries.  Now I use the Powerex AA 2700mAh NiMH Rechargeable.  I never had an issue with my old 580exII or 430exII overheating and I used to shoot a lot faster when I used those flashes.  I am more deliberate now with my shots and it sill can overheat on me if I am not careful.  I am just very upset that when one of three flashes goes into thermal protection mode it causes all of the flashes to stop working.  Whoever made that happen has no idea what kind of panic that can send a wedding or event photographer into.  I have been put into some bad situations when that happened unexpectedly.

It would be nice if I could find a way to override or trick the flash into not going into thermal protection mode.  I mean I would think a 600ex should be able to shoot at 1/32 all night without any issues.  I would understand if I had cranked them up to 1/4 or 1/2 power.     

6
Lighting / Cheetah Light CL-180 vs Canon 600ex-rt
« on: January 28, 2014, 04:37:11 PM »
I am a wedding photographer and for the last two wedding seasons I have been happily using 3 600ex-rt flashes.  One on camera and two off.  I used to set my on camera flash to ETTL and both off camera flashes to manual mode.  I controlled the output via group mode on my master flash.  For a while now I have been setting all of my flashes to manual because I can get more consistent light and the batteries last longer.  The only time I would use ETTL on my on camera flash is if I for some reason had nothing but air above and around me and needed to point my flash straight ahead. 

Like I said I love the flashes but I have run into a few areas that I call "dead zones" where the radio signal gets screwed up but those times have been very rare.  My biggest complaint is that even at low power settings like 1/32 or 1/64 I find that my slave flashes will go into thermal protection mode which cause all three flashes to stop working.  It really doesn't take much for these guys to stop working.  I don't ever remember my 580exII and pocket wizards ever doing that.  The only way to correct the problem is to turn off the slave flash that is "overheated" and then turn it back on.  Often this happens at a very inconvenient time where I can't go across the crowded room and make the adjustment.  But I have learned to deal with this.

A few of my friends have dropped their flashes which has caused the radios in them to stop working so I have been looking into getting backups for my 3.  Instead of just buying three new 600s I got to thinking that I really don't need a backup ETTL flash and that I would actually probably prefer just three manual flashes with a simple trigger.  As nice as the 600ex flashes are, they are more than I need feature wise.  However, they do lack in power sometimes. 

After a little research I came across these cheetah lights:
 https://www.cheetahstand.com/A-New-Bare-Bulb-Flash-Arrives-p/cl-180combo.htm

They seem like they would do everything I need them to do at a wedding reception and outperform the 600ex flashes in terms of power.  The only downside would be the lack of ettl which I hardly use and the added extra trigger mounted to my camera since it won't be in in the flash.

Anyone have any experience with these flashes? 

7
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX+128GB+64GB buffer/write issues
« on: October 28, 2013, 03:37:58 PM »
So I had this issue repeat with the same card so I was thinking it is a card issue.  I am sending it back to SanDisk for a replacement.  However, I was at a wedding last Saturday evening with a Lexar Professional 128GB card in one slot and a Lexar Professional 32GB card in the other slot.  I had the the same issue where the buffer could not or would not clear.  I shut the camera off and took out the battery.  When I turned everything back on I had obviously lost the images still writing to the buffer but I could shoot again but the buffer light continued to stay on.  I kept shooting for a little bit and noticed the cameras was slower to write to the cards and the buffer continued to stay on.  It was like it was busy doing something and if I pushed it too much it would freeze up on me.  I decided to swap out cameras and use my 5D3 for the rest of the reception (which is so slow in comparison to the 1DX).  After I copied my cards to the computer I formated them and put them back in the camera and the buffer returned to normal.  I even shot an engagement session with no problems.  I either have 3 bad professional grade CF cards or something is wrong with my 1DX.  Any thoughts?

8
I guess one good thing about having the 300mm now is that if I ever break my 70-200 during a wedding I have a back up telephoto.  That is the one thing about weddings, you can always use a good backup. 

9
Thank you for all of the input.  Looks like I should have just gotten the 1.4 TC.  I am not interested in a crop camera.  I actually used to have a 7D and thought the color was horrible.  I could never quite match it to my FF cameras which made post processing a wedding a headache. 

10
I am a wedding photographer and was looking for a solution for when I am stuck in the back of a long church or the balcony.  Maybe a few bridal portraits ( I love lens compression for portraits ).  I have a 1DX and the 70-200 f/2.8L IS II.  I was contemplating getting the TC 1.4III but made the decision to get the 300mm f/4 L IS.  I hope I made the right decision.

11
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX+128GB+64GB buffer/write issues
« on: October 07, 2013, 10:56:54 AM »
You are right that it shouldn't happen - couple of possibilities come to mined: faulty card or 1Dx not liking two different branded cards for some reason.

Have you managed to replicate the issue since the wedding shoot?

Not yet.  The only times I have had issues with cards they have been SanDisk.  Could be a coincidence but I am thinking about only using Lexar cards now.   

12
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX+128GB+64GB buffer/write issues
« on: October 04, 2013, 10:24:21 AM »
I have a 1XD and mostly shoot weddings.  During a wedding I had a Lexar Professional 128GB 800x card and a SanDisk 64GB Extreme Pro 90mbs.  I was shooting RAW to the Lexar and JPEG to the SanDisk.  About 2000 pictures into the day I went to review a series of images I had just taken and could not because the camera was busy writing to the cards.  I do not spray and pray so I was confused as to what was happening.  The buffer never did clear and I took the risk of trying to shut the camera off.  Next a spinning graphic along with the message that the camera was still trying to write 14 files to the cards came up on the LCD screen.  I let it be for about 5 minutes and then felt that I had to move on with the day and wasn't really willing to stop using my 1DX.  I took the battery out and put it back in and was able to review the images and sure enough I had lost the 14 pictures it was trying to write.  It wasn't a huge deal because I had already retaken them with my 5D3.  I was able to take pictures again but I noticed that the red buffer light stayed on continuously.  I found out that the 64GB card was causing the issue so I swapped it out and continued without any issues.  My question is that do you thing the issues was with the camera or card(s).  I feel like I shouldn't have these issues with expensive cameras and nicer, newer cards.  However I know that crap happens.     

13
Camera Body Gallery / Re: This sensor is holy
« on: July 13, 2013, 09:57:22 PM »
I see a big set of Marilyn Monroe lips. Wait, wait... maybe it's the Rolling Stone logo...

That was the first thing I saw too.

14
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX JPEG Quality Setting
« on: June 21, 2013, 10:36:34 AM »
I just got my 1DX yesterday and noticed the JPEG quality setting was set to 8 by default.  I have been shooting with a 5D3 for over a year now and of course that option is not on the 5D3.  I started to compare some JPEGs of the 1DX and the 5D3 and noticed that the 1DX jpegs (quality 10) have a little larger file size than the 5D3s even thought the 1DX has less MPs so I am assuming that the 5D3 compresses the jpegs more.  Am I correct?  Also anyone see any reason why I would need to adjust my JPEG quality down from 10 assuming I am not worried about the little extra file size?  Now I don't want to start a JPEG vs RAW war but I was just curious if anyone knew more about it and why that option is not on the 5D3. 

15
Things have really changed since I started this post a few months ago.  I was very frustrated at the time and not I couldn't be more satisfied.  I just used both of my 5D3s at a wedding last Saturday and they both have the firmware update.  I shot 2,700 pictures with at least 1000 being in a very dark fast moving reception and I nailed just about every shot I took.  There is a huge difference in the focus speed with the AF assist beam now.  It once caused the focus to slow way down and now it speeds it up drastically.  My 50mm 1.2 used to say in my bag because it would simply not focus in the dark.  I used the heck out of it and shot at 1.2 most of the time with most being keepers.  When I use the 24-70 f/2.8L II, I feel like I am cheating because it focuses on whatever I want instantly.  I am very happy!


good to hear....i haven't done the update yet and have been waiting to see if anybody was having problems after updating....sounds like you're saying "go ahead and update" right?

I would update immediately.  Especially if you use the AF assist beam at all.

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