September 20, 2014, 06:09:30 AM

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Topics - jaayres20

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1
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX vs D4s
« on: September 09, 2014, 11:56:58 AM »
I have to admit I only shoot Canon and this is probably pointless but I wanted so say it anyway.  I also have a 1DX and love it.  I am a wedding photographer and all of my favorite photographers love Nikon and talk about how awesome their D4s cameras are.  I read in reviews that the D4s beats the 1Dx hands down.  The 1DX loses to Nikon by 7 points in a sensor test on the DOX website.  After reading about them I have a couple of observations.

The 1DX has more MPs
The 1Dx has a higher fps
The 1Dx has a better viewfinder
The 1DX has a better, faster, more accurate AF system

Now the D4s is supposedly better in all areas related to the sensor, especially DR, but here are some quotes from DOX website, "As for the much-vaunted dynamic range the Nikon D4s has an extra 1.5 stops at base over the Canon EOS-1D X but that advantage is eroded at higher ISOs and there’s nothing in it by ISO 1600....The Nikon D4S sensor may have a wider dynamic range and better color discrimination than the Canon EOS-1D X but the gulf between the two sensors is less than you might think, and that’s certainly the case with noise levels....The upshot is the Nikon has better low-light performance overall, but even then it’s really only a slight advantage when using raw, and may not be visible at all with out-of-camera Jpegs...the Nikon D4s is ahead of the Canon EOS 1D X, but in reality the two are closely matched and that applies as much to the technical spec’ as anything else... in the right hands both cameras produce results that would be difficult to tell apart.

So the D4s is a "better" camera because of the sensor, which is, in all reality, so little better that most won't be able to tell the difference, but it doesn't get any credit for better AF, more MP and a higher frame rate?  Also it is 2 years older than the D4s. 

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Dynamic Range Question
« on: June 28, 2014, 12:37:44 AM »
I really promise I am not trying to start an argument, I am just curious from those folks who have enjoyed cameras with high dynamic range what they think about this image.  I took this at a recent wedding with my 5D3 and it was overexposed because I didn't get the settings dialed in just right from when they came out of a much darker church.  So with my limited DR capabilities of my 5D3 I was able to recover everything in the photograph to the point that it looks kinda bad.  Much like a bad HDR.  So with more DR would the image have looked better (less HDR like and more natural) or would I have just been able to overexpose it more and still be able to recover the details in the highlights?  The top is straight out of the camera and the bottom is with the highlight recover slider maxed out and the shadows bumped up.

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Give me reasons to by the 200 f/2
« on: April 16, 2014, 04:34:18 PM »
I am a wedding photographer and I already have a lot of great gear that helps me do my job well.  I have a 1DX, a 5D3, 70-200 f/2.8L IS II, 24-70L II, 85mm 1.2L, 50mm 1.2L, 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro, 90mm f/2.8 TS, and I just picked up the 300mm f/4L IS.  I obviously have everything I need to do a good job at any wedding, however I just like to buy gear and get the best I can as long as I can justify buying it.  Sure it would be really nice to have the 400mm f/2.8 for when I am stuck in the balcony of the church but I can't justify the price of the lens for that reason. 

I am so close to buying the 200mm f/2 but I am actually having a hard time justifying the price.  I have looked into it so much and I know it is superb, but will it be worth the $6000?  I don't know?  I love to shoot wide open and I love lens compression.  I shoot with the 85 at 1.2 always and I try to stand back and use my 70-200 at 200mm or sometimes I even use the 300mm for portraits.

I also like the 300mm for when I am stuck in the back of the church during ceremonies, but I would probably have to sell it if I picked up the 200 f/2.  I am curious how the 200 f/2 would preform with the 1.4xIII or 2xIII teleconverters in terms of IQ in relation to the 300 f/4L.  I am not terribly concerned about focus speed because the 300 f/4 isn't super fast and I mostly use it when everything is still.

Anyone have any thoughts?  Especially those of you who use the 70-200 f/2.8L IS and the 200mm f/2.  Also if by chance any of you have any knowledge on how the IQ of the 200mm f/2 with the 1.4III teleconverter relates to the 300mm f/4L?   

4
Lighting / Cheetah Light CL-180 vs Canon 600ex-rt
« on: January 28, 2014, 04:37:11 PM »
I am a wedding photographer and for the last two wedding seasons I have been happily using 3 600ex-rt flashes.  One on camera and two off.  I used to set my on camera flash to ETTL and both off camera flashes to manual mode.  I controlled the output via group mode on my master flash.  For a while now I have been setting all of my flashes to manual because I can get more consistent light and the batteries last longer.  The only time I would use ETTL on my on camera flash is if I for some reason had nothing but air above and around me and needed to point my flash straight ahead. 

Like I said I love the flashes but I have run into a few areas that I call "dead zones" where the radio signal gets screwed up but those times have been very rare.  My biggest complaint is that even at low power settings like 1/32 or 1/64 I find that my slave flashes will go into thermal protection mode which cause all three flashes to stop working.  It really doesn't take much for these guys to stop working.  I don't ever remember my 580exII and pocket wizards ever doing that.  The only way to correct the problem is to turn off the slave flash that is "overheated" and then turn it back on.  Often this happens at a very inconvenient time where I can't go across the crowded room and make the adjustment.  But I have learned to deal with this.

A few of my friends have dropped their flashes which has caused the radios in them to stop working so I have been looking into getting backups for my 3.  Instead of just buying three new 600s I got to thinking that I really don't need a backup ETTL flash and that I would actually probably prefer just three manual flashes with a simple trigger.  As nice as the 600ex flashes are, they are more than I need feature wise.  However, they do lack in power sometimes. 

After a little research I came across these cheetah lights:
 https://www.cheetahstand.com/A-New-Bare-Bulb-Flash-Arrives-p/cl-180combo.htm

They seem like they would do everything I need them to do at a wedding reception and outperform the 600ex flashes in terms of power.  The only downside would be the lack of ettl which I hardly use and the added extra trigger mounted to my camera since it won't be in in the flash.

Anyone have any experience with these flashes? 

5
I am a wedding photographer and was looking for a solution for when I am stuck in the back of a long church or the balcony.  Maybe a few bridal portraits ( I love lens compression for portraits ).  I have a 1DX and the 70-200 f/2.8L IS II.  I was contemplating getting the TC 1.4III but made the decision to get the 300mm f/4 L IS.  I hope I made the right decision.

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX+128GB+64GB buffer/write issues
« on: October 04, 2013, 10:24:21 AM »
I have a 1XD and mostly shoot weddings.  During a wedding I had a Lexar Professional 128GB 800x card and a SanDisk 64GB Extreme Pro 90mbs.  I was shooting RAW to the Lexar and JPEG to the SanDisk.  About 2000 pictures into the day I went to review a series of images I had just taken and could not because the camera was busy writing to the cards.  I do not spray and pray so I was confused as to what was happening.  The buffer never did clear and I took the risk of trying to shut the camera off.  Next a spinning graphic along with the message that the camera was still trying to write 14 files to the cards came up on the LCD screen.  I let it be for about 5 minutes and then felt that I had to move on with the day and wasn't really willing to stop using my 1DX.  I took the battery out and put it back in and was able to review the images and sure enough I had lost the 14 pictures it was trying to write.  It wasn't a huge deal because I had already retaken them with my 5D3.  I was able to take pictures again but I noticed that the red buffer light stayed on continuously.  I found out that the 64GB card was causing the issue so I swapped it out and continued without any issues.  My question is that do you thing the issues was with the camera or card(s).  I feel like I shouldn't have these issues with expensive cameras and nicer, newer cards.  However I know that crap happens.     

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX JPEG Quality Setting
« on: June 21, 2013, 10:36:34 AM »
I just got my 1DX yesterday and noticed the JPEG quality setting was set to 8 by default.  I have been shooting with a 5D3 for over a year now and of course that option is not on the 5D3.  I started to compare some JPEGs of the 1DX and the 5D3 and noticed that the 1DX jpegs (quality 10) have a little larger file size than the 5D3s even thought the 1DX has less MPs so I am assuming that the 5D3 compresses the jpegs more.  Am I correct?  Also anyone see any reason why I would need to adjust my JPEG quality down from 10 assuming I am not worried about the little extra file size?  Now I don't want to start a JPEG vs RAW war but I was just curious if anyone knew more about it and why that option is not on the 5D3. 

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Lighting / 600ex-rt and the dead zone
« on: December 30, 2012, 06:39:41 PM »
I am a wedding photographer and I have shot 26 weddings this year with three 600ex-rt flashes and for the most part am very happy with them.  However, there have been two occasions where there has been an area about 20-30 feet in diamater that the master goes all screwball and the link goes in and out.  I was shooting a wedding last night and my assistant also had three flashes and hers did the same thing in the same "dead zone"  We were both on different channels so we were not interfering with each other.  I did everything I could think of like change batteries turn them on and off and I even did a channel scan to see which one had them most strength.  Still there was that zone where the flash had issues and the link would go in and out.  It was in the middle of a large room with nothing that I could see that would cause issues.  It wasn't next to anything else electrical that I could see.  The only thing was a florescent fixture about 30 feet in the air.  Once I was out of the dead zone everything was fine.  Unfortunately it was the dance floor so it made shooting the reception harder.  I even tried to stand over by the DJ were I figure there would be the most interference and I had no issues.  The dead zone was in the middle of nothing.  Anyone have any insight?

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Lenses / 70-200 f/2.8L IS II focus issue
« on: November 18, 2012, 03:12:05 PM »
I have had my 70-200 for almost two years now and it has performed flawlessly up until now.  I have shot about 50 weddings with it and no issues.  Now it it having problems focusing at 200mm.  70-185 it is very sharp but at 200 it almost looks like slight motion blur or just plain out of focus.  I can get it to focus accurately sometimes but most of the time it is just off.  I am sending it in to Canon but do lenses get out of calibration like that?  It has never been dropped or mistreated.  On another note how often should you just send your lens it to get it checked over and professionally cleaned?   Especially if it is used a lot. 

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D3 & 600ex-rt + AF assist beam = slower focus
« on: October 18, 2012, 08:08:49 PM »
I am sure this has been discussed before but I just can't figure out why the 5D3 focuses so slowly when the AF assist is enabled on my flash.  Many times I have been at a wedding reception and I get frustrated with very slow focusing issues related to the AF assist beam.  I have messed around with turning it on and off and there is a very noticeable difference.  For example with my 70-200 as long as I find an area of some contrast it will focus almost instantly even dark situations.  As soon as I turn it on it sometimes takes a full second or two to lock focus.  I remember my 5D2 having improved focus with the AF assist from the 580exII.  Is it a flash issue or a camera issue?  I know there are a lot of you who have the same problems.  Anyone find any solutions?  Most of the time I don't need the AF assist but when it is pitch black and I need it it would be nice if I could focus a little faster.  I just don't understand how the AF can be so great in almost all situations except this one area.  Of course when I call CPS they claim they have never heard of an issue.     

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / BG-e11
« on: September 28, 2012, 11:21:07 AM »
I am having issues with my grip.  I have used it quite a bit and it has worked just fine until recently.  During a wedding the battery indicator was flashing showing both my batteries were almost dead.  I found it strange since I had only been shooting for about 3 hours and normally they last me all day.  Later after I charged both batteries it did it again with fresh batteries.  Going into the menu to battery info it said they were both at 100% even with the indicator flashing that they were about to go dead.  Sometimes it will show a message that the camera cannot communicate with the batteries.  After pulling out batteries and disconnecting the grip and putting everything back together it usually works fine for a while.  Do you think the grip is going bad or there is a connection issue?

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Shutter Question
« on: September 09, 2012, 09:17:24 PM »
I have been thinking a lot about shutters lately and I know I should know the answer to this question but why is a shutter even necessesary?  Obviously it is necessary for film but why for digital?  Why can't the power to the sensor power on and off according to the "shutter speed"?  Why isn't that possible?

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX or 85mm 1.2?
« on: August 08, 2012, 08:11:04 PM »
I am a wedding photographer and have two 5D mark IIIs, a 70-200 f/2.8L IS II, a 50mm 1.2L, a 24mm 1.4L, a 100mm f/2.8L IS and three 600ex-rt flashes.  I have more than what I need to take amazing pictures in almost any situation but I after I buy something I find myself looking to the next thing to buy.  I don't know what is wrong with me it is like a disease.  I know I am crazy and should just be content with what I have.  So if you were in my situation and you were going to buy something new would you sell one of the 5D3s and get a 1DX or would you buy the 85mm 1.2?  I am a little afraid the 85mm 1.2 will be a little slow focusing at receptions similar to the 50mm 1.2.  I just don't understand that my 70-200 and 24mm are able to focus really well in almost no light but the 50mm is very slow and unreliable.  If the 85mm is anything like the 50mm in that regard it may change my decision.  I would love to use it for portraits and almost always shoot at very large apertures.  As a matter of fact I love a shallow DOF so much that I usually shoot two or three Brenizer method images each wedding to get the effect of f/0.5 or f/0.6.   

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX vs 5D3
« on: July 27, 2012, 10:01:11 PM »
I am interested to hear from anyone who has used both cameras.  I have two 5D3s and I am a wedding photographer.  I love my cameras but I am always curious if there is something better that will help me do my job better.  I am interested if the AF is just a little faster and better and I have also read that the sensor may be a little better.  Anyone have any experience with the two cameras? 

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / What happened to this picture?
« on: July 12, 2012, 04:47:35 PM »
Anyone see anything like this before? My first thought is a flash sync problem but usually you see 1/4 of the frame dark not a dark line like that. Also if the shutter got stuck wouldn't the frame from that point on be darker? It was the only picture like that out of the entire wedding. I hate wired stuff like this that I can't explain.  Also I have a 5D3 and it is like this on both cards so I don't think it is a card problem.  Maybe a glitch when the camera wrote to the cards?  So the other question is if the camera has two card slots does it write the image to both cards separately or does it write to one card and copy from one card to the other? I would hope they don't do that because it it would negate the usefulness of two card slots.

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