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Messages - jaayres20

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX vs D4s
« on: September 09, 2014, 11:56:58 AM »
I have to admit I only shoot Canon and this is probably pointless but I wanted so say it anyway.  I also have a 1DX and love it.  I am a wedding photographer and all of my favorite photographers love Nikon and talk about how awesome their D4s cameras are.  I read in reviews that the D4s beats the 1Dx hands down.  The 1DX loses to Nikon by 7 points in a sensor test on the DOX website.  After reading about them I have a couple of observations.

The 1DX has more MPs
The 1Dx has a higher fps
The 1Dx has a better viewfinder
The 1DX has a better, faster, more accurate AF system

Now the D4s is supposedly better in all areas related to the sensor, especially DR, but here are some quotes from DOX website, "As for the much-vaunted dynamic range the Nikon D4s has an extra 1.5 stops at base over the Canon EOS-1D X but that advantage is eroded at higher ISOs and there’s nothing in it by ISO 1600....The Nikon D4S sensor may have a wider dynamic range and better color discrimination than the Canon EOS-1D X but the gulf between the two sensors is less than you might think, and that’s certainly the case with noise levels....The upshot is the Nikon has better low-light performance overall, but even then it’s really only a slight advantage when using raw, and may not be visible at all with out-of-camera Jpegs...the Nikon D4s is ahead of the Canon EOS 1D X, but in reality the two are closely matched and that applies as much to the technical spec’ as anything else... in the right hands both cameras produce results that would be difficult to tell apart.

So the D4s is a "better" camera because of the sensor, which is, in all reality, so little better that most won't be able to tell the difference, but it doesn't get any credit for better AF, more MP and a higher frame rate?  Also it is 2 years older than the D4s. 

EOS Bodies / Re: Are These The EOS 7D Mark II Specifications?
« on: August 25, 2014, 02:11:43 PM »
I shoot with a 1DX and a 5D3 and I have shot many many weddings under all kinds of lighting conditions.  I can think of only a few times where I wished I had more DR in blown out highlights of a wedding veil in direct sunlight.  99% of the time, if I expose correctly then it isn't a problem for me.  So DR isn't my concern.

However, I used to own a 7D and I absolutely hated the color.  It was nowhere near the color I was getting with my full frame.  I sold it and stuck with my 5D2.  I haven't shot with a crop sensor since so I am not sure it things have changed recently.  I love the idea of having a 7D2 at weddings because of the extra zoom it will provide me in those big catholic churches were I am stuck in the balcony.  I would by this camera the day it comes out if I knew that it would have good/natural colors.  ISO I am sure is good enough @ 6400 and that is the highest I shoot.  I would also love the sensitivity of the center focal point to be as sensitive as the center point of the 6D.  That is a truly amazing thing.  I wish the 5D3 or 1DX had the same sensitivity in theirs. 

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Dynamic Range Question
« on: June 28, 2014, 10:41:12 AM »
Looking back I didn't ask my question very well.  This is definitely not the way I would process the image.  The only reason why I did for this example is to show that the tonal information was in the image, an overexposed image.  If that is the case then what would more dynamic range in a camera sensor do for me in this case?  Would having more make the image better if there is already too much? 

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Dynamic Range Question
« on: June 28, 2014, 12:37:44 AM »
I really promise I am not trying to start an argument, I am just curious from those folks who have enjoyed cameras with high dynamic range what they think about this image.  I took this at a recent wedding with my 5D3 and it was overexposed because I didn't get the settings dialed in just right from when they came out of a much darker church.  So with my limited DR capabilities of my 5D3 I was able to recover everything in the photograph to the point that it looks kinda bad.  Much like a bad HDR.  So with more DR would the image have looked better (less HDR like and more natural) or would I have just been able to overexpose it more and still be able to recover the details in the highlights?  The top is straight out of the camera and the bottom is with the highlight recover slider maxed out and the shadows bumped up.

I didn't take the time to read the other posts so if this has already been mentioned then I am sorry.  Servo mode is not a great idea for a dark first dance.  I am not confident in my 1DX having the best success for that either.  You should always avoid using that when it is dark if possible.  Always use one shot so that the AF assist beam on the flash will help you focus.  I have a 1DX and 5D3 and even though they have great AF performance, it is not good enough to shoot sharp images consistently in the dark.  The AF assist beam will work wonders for you, but is only available in one shot focus drive mode.  Also, focus on something light, like the grooms white shirt next to his black jacket.  Also use the center AF points.  They are the most sensitive.     

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Give me reasons to by the 200 f/2
« on: April 16, 2014, 04:34:18 PM »
I am a wedding photographer and I already have a lot of great gear that helps me do my job well.  I have a 1DX, a 5D3, 70-200 f/2.8L IS II, 24-70L II, 85mm 1.2L, 50mm 1.2L, 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro, 90mm f/2.8 TS, and I just picked up the 300mm f/4L IS.  I obviously have everything I need to do a good job at any wedding, however I just like to buy gear and get the best I can as long as I can justify buying it.  Sure it would be really nice to have the 400mm f/2.8 for when I am stuck in the balcony of the church but I can't justify the price of the lens for that reason. 

I am so close to buying the 200mm f/2 but I am actually having a hard time justifying the price.  I have looked into it so much and I know it is superb, but will it be worth the $6000?  I don't know?  I love to shoot wide open and I love lens compression.  I shoot with the 85 at 1.2 always and I try to stand back and use my 70-200 at 200mm or sometimes I even use the 300mm for portraits.

I also like the 300mm for when I am stuck in the back of the church during ceremonies, but I would probably have to sell it if I picked up the 200 f/2.  I am curious how the 200 f/2 would preform with the 1.4xIII or 2xIII teleconverters in terms of IQ in relation to the 300 f/4L.  I am not terribly concerned about focus speed because the 300 f/4 isn't super fast and I mostly use it when everything is still.

Anyone have any thoughts?  Especially those of you who use the 70-200 f/2.8L IS and the 200mm f/2.  Also if by chance any of you have any knowledge on how the IQ of the 200mm f/2 with the 1.4III teleconverter relates to the 300mm f/4L?   

Lighting / Re: Cheetah Light CL-180 vs Canon 600ex-rt
« on: February 06, 2014, 11:09:18 AM »
Have you tried using different batteries in your lights? Say NiHM vs Lithium. How about taking them in for service?

I have always used rechargeable batteries.  Now I use the Powerex AA 2700mAh NiMH Rechargeable.  I never had an issue with my old 580exII or 430exII overheating and I used to shoot a lot faster when I used those flashes.  I am more deliberate now with my shots and it sill can overheat on me if I am not careful.  I am just very upset that when one of three flashes goes into thermal protection mode it causes all of the flashes to stop working.  Whoever made that happen has no idea what kind of panic that can send a wedding or event photographer into.  I have been put into some bad situations when that happened unexpectedly.

It would be nice if I could find a way to override or trick the flash into not going into thermal protection mode.  I mean I would think a 600ex should be able to shoot at 1/32 all night without any issues.  I would understand if I had cranked them up to 1/4 or 1/2 power.     

Lighting / Cheetah Light CL-180 vs Canon 600ex-rt
« on: January 28, 2014, 04:37:11 PM »
I am a wedding photographer and for the last two wedding seasons I have been happily using 3 600ex-rt flashes.  One on camera and two off.  I used to set my on camera flash to ETTL and both off camera flashes to manual mode.  I controlled the output via group mode on my master flash.  For a while now I have been setting all of my flashes to manual because I can get more consistent light and the batteries last longer.  The only time I would use ETTL on my on camera flash is if I for some reason had nothing but air above and around me and needed to point my flash straight ahead. 

Like I said I love the flashes but I have run into a few areas that I call "dead zones" where the radio signal gets screwed up but those times have been very rare.  My biggest complaint is that even at low power settings like 1/32 or 1/64 I find that my slave flashes will go into thermal protection mode which cause all three flashes to stop working.  It really doesn't take much for these guys to stop working.  I don't ever remember my 580exII and pocket wizards ever doing that.  The only way to correct the problem is to turn off the slave flash that is "overheated" and then turn it back on.  Often this happens at a very inconvenient time where I can't go across the crowded room and make the adjustment.  But I have learned to deal with this.

A few of my friends have dropped their flashes which has caused the radios in them to stop working so I have been looking into getting backups for my 3.  Instead of just buying three new 600s I got to thinking that I really don't need a backup ETTL flash and that I would actually probably prefer just three manual flashes with a simple trigger.  As nice as the 600ex flashes are, they are more than I need feature wise.  However, they do lack in power sometimes. 

After a little research I came across these cheetah lights:

They seem like they would do everything I need them to do at a wedding reception and outperform the 600ex flashes in terms of power.  The only downside would be the lack of ettl which I hardly use and the added extra trigger mounted to my camera since it won't be in in the flash.

Anyone have any experience with these flashes? 

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX+128GB+64GB buffer/write issues
« on: October 28, 2013, 03:37:58 PM »
So I had this issue repeat with the same card so I was thinking it is a card issue.  I am sending it back to SanDisk for a replacement.  However, I was at a wedding last Saturday evening with a Lexar Professional 128GB card in one slot and a Lexar Professional 32GB card in the other slot.  I had the the same issue where the buffer could not or would not clear.  I shut the camera off and took out the battery.  When I turned everything back on I had obviously lost the images still writing to the buffer but I could shoot again but the buffer light continued to stay on.  I kept shooting for a little bit and noticed the cameras was slower to write to the cards and the buffer continued to stay on.  It was like it was busy doing something and if I pushed it too much it would freeze up on me.  I decided to swap out cameras and use my 5D3 for the rest of the reception (which is so slow in comparison to the 1DX).  After I copied my cards to the computer I formated them and put them back in the camera and the buffer returned to normal.  I even shot an engagement session with no problems.  I either have 3 bad professional grade CF cards or something is wrong with my 1DX.  Any thoughts?

I guess one good thing about having the 300mm now is that if I ever break my 70-200 during a wedding I have a back up telephoto.  That is the one thing about weddings, you can always use a good backup. 

Thank you for all of the input.  Looks like I should have just gotten the 1.4 TC.  I am not interested in a crop camera.  I actually used to have a 7D and thought the color was horrible.  I could never quite match it to my FF cameras which made post processing a wedding a headache. 

I am a wedding photographer and was looking for a solution for when I am stuck in the back of a long church or the balcony.  Maybe a few bridal portraits ( I love lens compression for portraits ).  I have a 1DX and the 70-200 f/2.8L IS II.  I was contemplating getting the TC 1.4III but made the decision to get the 300mm f/4 L IS.  I hope I made the right decision.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX+128GB+64GB buffer/write issues
« on: October 07, 2013, 10:56:54 AM »
You are right that it shouldn't happen - couple of possibilities come to mined: faulty card or 1Dx not liking two different branded cards for some reason.

Have you managed to replicate the issue since the wedding shoot?

Not yet.  The only times I have had issues with cards they have been SanDisk.  Could be a coincidence but I am thinking about only using Lexar cards now.   

EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX+128GB+64GB buffer/write issues
« on: October 04, 2013, 10:24:21 AM »
I have a 1XD and mostly shoot weddings.  During a wedding I had a Lexar Professional 128GB 800x card and a SanDisk 64GB Extreme Pro 90mbs.  I was shooting RAW to the Lexar and JPEG to the SanDisk.  About 2000 pictures into the day I went to review a series of images I had just taken and could not because the camera was busy writing to the cards.  I do not spray and pray so I was confused as to what was happening.  The buffer never did clear and I took the risk of trying to shut the camera off.  Next a spinning graphic along with the message that the camera was still trying to write 14 files to the cards came up on the LCD screen.  I let it be for about 5 minutes and then felt that I had to move on with the day and wasn't really willing to stop using my 1DX.  I took the battery out and put it back in and was able to review the images and sure enough I had lost the 14 pictures it was trying to write.  It wasn't a huge deal because I had already retaken them with my 5D3.  I was able to take pictures again but I noticed that the red buffer light stayed on continuously.  I found out that the 64GB card was causing the issue so I swapped it out and continued without any issues.  My question is that do you thing the issues was with the camera or card(s).  I feel like I shouldn't have these issues with expensive cameras and nicer, newer cards.  However I know that crap happens.     

Camera Body Gallery / Re: This sensor is holy
« on: July 13, 2013, 09:57:22 PM »
I see a big set of Marilyn Monroe lips. Wait, wait... maybe it's the Rolling Stone logo...

That was the first thing I saw too.

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