November 26, 2014, 06:41:37 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - jaayres20

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 8
61
Lenses / Re: Any Wedding Lens Advice?
« on: September 11, 2012, 09:09:40 AM »
The 24-70 is a boring lens and you already have some wide angle lenses.  Go for the 70-200 f/2.8L IS II it is a must have and will be on your camera most of the day.

62
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Shutter Question
« on: September 09, 2012, 09:17:24 PM »
I have been thinking a lot about shutters lately and I know I should know the answer to this question but why is a shutter even necessesary?  Obviously it is necessary for film but why for digital?  Why can't the power to the sensor power on and off according to the "shutter speed"?  Why isn't that possible?

63
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Speeding up 1DX foc lock... Any tips?
« on: August 26, 2012, 06:59:44 PM »
I have shot almost 20 weddings with the 5D3 this year and I used to have the same frustraiting problem. I agree there is a big problem and it should be addressed but in the meantime I have discovered a couple things that has made me almost forget there is a problem. First off a good lens is very necessary. I almost always use my 70-200 or 24L which both focus fast in difficult lighting. The 50L completely falls apart as does the 85L. The AF assist is of no help unless it is very dark. I have found focusing without the AF assist on my 70-200 to be fairly easy even in really low light. The 24L seems like it does a lot better with the AF assist. I have also discovered that the camera does actually focus fast but the red conframation blink is often delayed. I changed the settings that allow me to take the shot without a focus lock and I have found that 9 times out of 10 the initial split second focus is in perfect focus even without the red conframation blink. Hope this helps. I seriously think there is something wrong with the AF assist on the 600ex or a combination of the 600ex and 5D3.  I hope the fix it.

64
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D3 for sports/action?
« on: August 11, 2012, 11:15:25 AM »
I owened a7D for over a year and I currently own a 5D3 an I always hated the image quality of the 7D. The colors are not accurate and you spent so much time trying to adjust the white balance.  The details are often lost in too much  noise. The 5D3 has a better, faster AF and the image quality will blow the doors off the 7D. Auto WB on the 5D3 is really good even in bad, mixed light.  You can crop in an image from the 5D3 and still have more clariy and less noise than the 7D so the extra reach it provides is almost a non factor.

65
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX or 85mm 1.2?
« on: August 08, 2012, 08:11:04 PM »
I am a wedding photographer and have two 5D mark IIIs, a 70-200 f/2.8L IS II, a 50mm 1.2L, a 24mm 1.4L, a 100mm f/2.8L IS and three 600ex-rt flashes.  I have more than what I need to take amazing pictures in almost any situation but I after I buy something I find myself looking to the next thing to buy.  I don't know what is wrong with me it is like a disease.  I know I am crazy and should just be content with what I have.  So if you were in my situation and you were going to buy something new would you sell one of the 5D3s and get a 1DX or would you buy the 85mm 1.2?  I am a little afraid the 85mm 1.2 will be a little slow focusing at receptions similar to the 50mm 1.2.  I just don't understand that my 70-200 and 24mm are able to focus really well in almost no light but the 50mm is very slow and unreliable.  If the 85mm is anything like the 50mm in that regard it may change my decision.  I would love to use it for portraits and almost always shoot at very large apertures.  As a matter of fact I love a shallow DOF so much that I usually shoot two or three Brenizer method images each wedding to get the effect of f/0.5 or f/0.6.   

66
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1DX vs 5D3
« on: July 27, 2012, 10:01:11 PM »
I am interested to hear from anyone who has used both cameras.  I have two 5D3s and I am a wedding photographer.  I love my cameras but I am always curious if there is something better that will help me do my job better.  I am interested if the AF is just a little faster and better and I have also read that the sensor may be a little better.  Anyone have any experience with the two cameras? 

67
EOS Bodies - For Stills / What happened to this picture?
« on: July 12, 2012, 04:47:35 PM »
Anyone see anything like this before? My first thought is a flash sync problem but usually you see 1/4 of the frame dark not a dark line like that. Also if the shutter got stuck wouldn't the frame from that point on be darker? It was the only picture like that out of the entire wedding. I hate wired stuff like this that I can't explain.  Also I have a 5D3 and it is like this on both cards so I don't think it is a card problem.  Maybe a glitch when the camera wrote to the cards?  So the other question is if the camera has two card slots does it write the image to both cards separately or does it write to one card and copy from one card to the other? I would hope they don't do that because it it would negate the usefulness of two card slots.

68
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D3 with AF assist
« on: June 22, 2012, 09:20:14 PM »
I am shooting a wedding reception right now and for the fun of it I turned the AF assist off and the camera focuses a whole lot faster. AF assist is only necessary I guess when there is no light. Why doesn't AF assist slow down the AF?  Shouldn't it help it?

69
Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 18, 2012, 10:27:22 PM »
If your on-camera flash isn't overheating, why would the remote flashes have that problem.  If you're always firing your on-camera flash, I would venture to guess that one is putting out more power than your remotes set at 1/32 or 1/64.  Do you think it might be a range problem -- 100ft isn't all that far.

Since it's part of the discussion, what do most of you set your speed lights at when flying them as remotes on stands?  It sounds like jaayres20 is using the eTTL function with ratios...how is that working out for you?  Is that giving you better light than setting the remotes on low manual power?

Chris I don't use ratios I use group mode and set my on camera flash to ETTL and my two slave flashes to manual.  I like to have the two slave flashes in different groups so I can adjust their power separately if needed.  And it has happend may times that if one of my slave flashes overheats then my on camera flash or my other slave flash will not fire until the slave flash "recovers".  It is very inconvenient to say the least.   

70
Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 18, 2012, 10:23:15 PM »
Well even the 600ex flashes with battery packs stopped working at really bad times which is annoying because if you have them all linked and one stops working then they all stop firing.

Mine will fire if one of them has dead batteries.  In the photo my set-up was 5D3 with ST-E3-RT and two 600RTs.  One 600 set to group A, and the other to group B.  In the photo one flash did not fire because its batteries were almost toast, but the other flash fired. 

What I'd like to know is: if you have a two or more flashes in the SAME group and one unit has dead batteries, will that affect that group only?  I doubt it will as the system is radio.

I have mine set up into three groups.  A is on my camera set to ETTL.  B & C are my other two flashes on stands.  If A, B or C "overheats" then they all stop firing until I turn that group off or switch the power on and off.  If I leave the power on the flash will never recover.  Switching the power on and off seems to reset it and is is good to go usually for 1000+ more shots.  I often take 2000-3000 shots at a reception so they get used quite a bit.  I did the same thing with the 580exII flashes and pocket wizards without any problems.   I can't do a side by side test because I sold my old 580ex II flashes.

How do you set the on-camera unit to group A?  I can't seem to replicate your set up (I only have two 600RTs), and the manual leeds me to believe you can't do that.  It's the same with the ratios on the flash that's a master, you need to also have two or more slaves to use the ratios.  With a flash as a master it seems to be excluded from any group, and any tests I'm doing seem to prove ratios are useless with an on-camera 600rt and a single slave 600rt.  With the st-e3-rt mounted on the 5D3 it all works as you'd expect, and works well imo.

Also, let it be known the manual is a lesson in ambiguity.  The top of the manual's page 49 seems to back up my claim of ratios not working with a 600rt at a master.  Quote: You can divide the slave units into two or three groups and perform E-TTLii/E-TT auto flash shooting while changing the flash ration (factor).  In addition, you can set and shoot with a different flash mode for each firing group, for up to 5 groups.

I think there might be a little confusion so I will try it again to see if it makes a little more since.  I have 3 flashes.  One on camera and two off camera.  My on camera flash is set to ETTL master in group mode.  I don't do anything with ratios.  I know that my on camera flash is set to group A because when I adjust the exposure compensation for that group the flash on my camera is affected.  My first off camera flash is set to slave in group B and it is manual set at 1/32 or 1/64 power usually.  My second off camera flash is set to slave in group C and it is also set to manual and 1/32 or 1/64 power.  I have had all three flashes overheat at various times.  They all have very light loads.  My on camera flash probably has the biggest load but ettl at ISO 3200 doesn't take much power.  Im my opinion all flashes should last for hours on a set of batteries without overheating in those conditions.  I can't compare them directly to the 580ex II flashes because I don't have them anymore but I never had that problem with them and I did the same thing only with pocketwizards.   

71
Lenses / 28mm 1.8 vs 24mm 1.4 AF
« on: June 18, 2012, 07:50:56 PM »
I have the 28mm 1.8 and I mostly use it at wedding receptions and am pretty happy with it. I think it does well at focusing fast in low light which is a must for me. I am not satisfied with the image quality in comparison to my other L lenses. I am interested in the 24mm 1.4 but I am concerned it won't focus as fast as the 28mm. I ran into that with the 50mm 1.2 not focusing as fast as the 50mm 1.4. Anyone with both lenses?

72
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D2 vs 5D3 low light AF
« on: June 18, 2012, 10:54:14 AM »
I had a 5D2 for years and never really had too many complaints about the AF at dark wedding receptions.  I ended up selling my 5D2 before my 5D3 arrived so I didn't have a chance to do a side by side comparison.  The 5D3 is great and I am happy with the AF but I never really thought it was that much better at low light AF than the 5D2.  Well I shot a wedding with another photographer who has a 5D2 this past weekend and just for the fun of it I took a few shots and compared the cameras side by side and I was amazed at how much faster the 5D3 was.  I could get 5 good shots in the time it took the 5D2 to get focused and take one.  It seemed like night and day to me.  I am sure this isn't news to anyone but I thought I would share just for the fun of it. 

73
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D3 Silent Shutter
« on: June 17, 2012, 06:40:17 PM »
So I have been loving the silent shutter for wedding ceremonies and at other times when I need to be quiet. Yesterday I was using it during an outdoor ceremony and I started to notice that one of my camera's shutter was lagging every third or fourth time. Almost like I was shooting at a very slow shutter speed. I switched back to the normal mode and there were no problems. Also my other 5D3 was acting fine  The only thing I can think was that it was hot and humid but I don't see how that would affect the shutter. Any thoughts?

74
Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 17, 2012, 05:07:47 PM »
Well even the 600ex flashes with battery packs stopped working at really bad times which is annoying because if you have them all linked and one stops working then they all stop firing.

Mine will fire if one of them has dead batteries.  In the photo my set-up was 5D3 with ST-E3-RT and two 600RTs.  One 600 set to group A, and the other to group B.  In the photo one flash did not fire because its batteries were almost toast, but the other flash fired. 

What I'd like to know is: if you have a two or more flashes in the SAME group and one unit has dead batteries, will that affect that group only?  I doubt it will as the system is radio.

I have mine set up into three groups.  A is on my camera set to ETTL.  B & C are my other two flashes on stands.  If A, B or C "overheats" then they all stop firing until I turn that group off or switch the power on and off.  If I leave the power on the flash will never recover.  Switching the power on and off seems to reset it and is is good to go usually for 1000+ more shots.  I often take 2000-3000 shots at a reception so they get used quite a bit.  I did the same thing with the 580exII flashes and pocket wizards without any problems.   I can't do a side by side test because I sold my old 580ex II flashes. 

75
Lenses / 50mm 1.4 rear element broke?
« on: June 15, 2012, 11:27:25 AM »
I hardly use my 50mm 1.4 because I have the 1.2.  I just keep it as a backup.  My 1 year old daughter managed to pick it up while it was out of my bag and it dropped on the hard wood floor.  When I picked it up I discovered the rear element had popped out.  I pushed it back in and it snapped into place.  After a short test the lens seems to be focusing and working just fine.  Does anyone know if that the rear element is just pressed into place or when it fell did it break something I don't know about?  I hate to rely on it one day and find out it is broken but I also hate to send it in if it is fine.  Anyone know?

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 8