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Messages - jaayres20

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61
Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 18, 2012, 10:23:15 PM »
Well even the 600ex flashes with battery packs stopped working at really bad times which is annoying because if you have them all linked and one stops working then they all stop firing.

Mine will fire if one of them has dead batteries.  In the photo my set-up was 5D3 with ST-E3-RT and two 600RTs.  One 600 set to group A, and the other to group B.  In the photo one flash did not fire because its batteries were almost toast, but the other flash fired. 

What I'd like to know is: if you have a two or more flashes in the SAME group and one unit has dead batteries, will that affect that group only?  I doubt it will as the system is radio.

I have mine set up into three groups.  A is on my camera set to ETTL.  B & C are my other two flashes on stands.  If A, B or C "overheats" then they all stop firing until I turn that group off or switch the power on and off.  If I leave the power on the flash will never recover.  Switching the power on and off seems to reset it and is is good to go usually for 1000+ more shots.  I often take 2000-3000 shots at a reception so they get used quite a bit.  I did the same thing with the 580exII flashes and pocket wizards without any problems.   I can't do a side by side test because I sold my old 580ex II flashes.

How do you set the on-camera unit to group A?  I can't seem to replicate your set up (I only have two 600RTs), and the manual leeds me to believe you can't do that.  It's the same with the ratios on the flash that's a master, you need to also have two or more slaves to use the ratios.  With a flash as a master it seems to be excluded from any group, and any tests I'm doing seem to prove ratios are useless with an on-camera 600rt and a single slave 600rt.  With the st-e3-rt mounted on the 5D3 it all works as you'd expect, and works well imo.

Also, let it be known the manual is a lesson in ambiguity.  The top of the manual's page 49 seems to back up my claim of ratios not working with a 600rt at a master.  Quote: You can divide the slave units into two or three groups and perform E-TTLii/E-TT auto flash shooting while changing the flash ration (factor).  In addition, you can set and shoot with a different flash mode for each firing group, for up to 5 groups.

I think there might be a little confusion so I will try it again to see if it makes a little more since.  I have 3 flashes.  One on camera and two off camera.  My on camera flash is set to ETTL master in group mode.  I don't do anything with ratios.  I know that my on camera flash is set to group A because when I adjust the exposure compensation for that group the flash on my camera is affected.  My first off camera flash is set to slave in group B and it is manual set at 1/32 or 1/64 power usually.  My second off camera flash is set to slave in group C and it is also set to manual and 1/32 or 1/64 power.  I have had all three flashes overheat at various times.  They all have very light loads.  My on camera flash probably has the biggest load but ettl at ISO 3200 doesn't take much power.  Im my opinion all flashes should last for hours on a set of batteries without overheating in those conditions.  I can't compare them directly to the 580ex II flashes because I don't have them anymore but I never had that problem with them and I did the same thing only with pocketwizards.   

62
Lenses / 28mm 1.8 vs 24mm 1.4 AF
« on: June 18, 2012, 07:50:56 PM »
I have the 28mm 1.8 and I mostly use it at wedding receptions and am pretty happy with it. I think it does well at focusing fast in low light which is a must for me. I am not satisfied with the image quality in comparison to my other L lenses. I am interested in the 24mm 1.4 but I am concerned it won't focus as fast as the 28mm. I ran into that with the 50mm 1.2 not focusing as fast as the 50mm 1.4. Anyone with both lenses?

63
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D2 vs 5D3 low light AF
« on: June 18, 2012, 10:54:14 AM »
I had a 5D2 for years and never really had too many complaints about the AF at dark wedding receptions.  I ended up selling my 5D2 before my 5D3 arrived so I didn't have a chance to do a side by side comparison.  The 5D3 is great and I am happy with the AF but I never really thought it was that much better at low light AF than the 5D2.  Well I shot a wedding with another photographer who has a 5D2 this past weekend and just for the fun of it I took a few shots and compared the cameras side by side and I was amazed at how much faster the 5D3 was.  I could get 5 good shots in the time it took the 5D2 to get focused and take one.  It seemed like night and day to me.  I am sure this isn't news to anyone but I thought I would share just for the fun of it. 

64
EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D3 Silent Shutter
« on: June 17, 2012, 06:40:17 PM »
So I have been loving the silent shutter for wedding ceremonies and at other times when I need to be quiet. Yesterday I was using it during an outdoor ceremony and I started to notice that one of my camera's shutter was lagging every third or fourth time. Almost like I was shooting at a very slow shutter speed. I switched back to the normal mode and there were no problems. Also my other 5D3 was acting fine  The only thing I can think was that it was hot and humid but I don't see how that would affect the shutter. Any thoughts?

65
Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 17, 2012, 05:07:47 PM »
Well even the 600ex flashes with battery packs stopped working at really bad times which is annoying because if you have them all linked and one stops working then they all stop firing.

Mine will fire if one of them has dead batteries.  In the photo my set-up was 5D3 with ST-E3-RT and two 600RTs.  One 600 set to group A, and the other to group B.  In the photo one flash did not fire because its batteries were almost toast, but the other flash fired. 

What I'd like to know is: if you have a two or more flashes in the SAME group and one unit has dead batteries, will that affect that group only?  I doubt it will as the system is radio.

I have mine set up into three groups.  A is on my camera set to ETTL.  B & C are my other two flashes on stands.  If A, B or C "overheats" then they all stop firing until I turn that group off or switch the power on and off.  If I leave the power on the flash will never recover.  Switching the power on and off seems to reset it and is is good to go usually for 1000+ more shots.  I often take 2000-3000 shots at a reception so they get used quite a bit.  I did the same thing with the 580exII flashes and pocket wizards without any problems.   I can't do a side by side test because I sold my old 580ex II flashes. 

66
Lenses / 50mm 1.4 rear element broke?
« on: June 15, 2012, 11:27:25 AM »
I hardly use my 50mm 1.4 because I have the 1.2.  I just keep it as a backup.  My 1 year old daughter managed to pick it up while it was out of my bag and it dropped on the hard wood floor.  When I picked it up I discovered the rear element had popped out.  I pushed it back in and it snapped into place.  After a short test the lens seems to be focusing and working just fine.  Does anyone know if that the rear element is just pressed into place or when it fell did it break something I don't know about?  I hate to rely on it one day and find out it is broken but I also hate to send it in if it is fine.  Anyone know?

67
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5DMk3 at wedding receptions
« on: June 11, 2012, 06:50:09 PM »
I have noticed there is a big difference between a few of my lenses.

Are you using lenses with a f4 or even f5.6 open aperture, and how do these perform? I'm asking because I've got the 70-300L/4-5.6 and wouldn't like to see that the af performance on the 5d3 isn't any better than on the 5d2 or 60d...

Sorry all I have are fast prime lenses and the 70-200 f/2.8L IS II. 

68
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5DMk3 at wedding receptions
« on: June 11, 2012, 05:31:16 PM »
I had the same frustrations but I noticed that it would actually focus before the red light flashed so I switched the priority to shot and I often take the picture before the read light and almost all of the time it is in focus.  What lens are you using?  I have noticed there is a big difference between a few of my lenses.  The 70-200 does really well in light that is almost too dark for my eyes to see.  The 50mm 1.2 is horrible and when I what good consistant focus with fast moving dancing I switch to the 28mm 1.8.  If focuses fast and benefits more from the AF assist on the flash.  It really helps to find an area with just a little bit of contrast like a shirt collar or a tie against a white shirt.  Often those areas are in the same focal plain and are easier to attain focus.  Good luck!

69
Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 10, 2012, 09:22:02 PM »
This may be a dumb question but are you sure they were firing at only 1/64?

Try test firing one at 1/64 ten times in a row and see if it overheats and activates the red screen. Then wait and try 20. It shouldn't overheat at that power level.
Yes they were on a lower power setting like 1/64 or 1/32. I know for a fact that they can shoot 10 in a row at 1/16. I love the flashes for the most part. They overheat at wired and random times. It is like they know when is the worst time to act up and do it just to make things hard. Kind of like my kids.

70
Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 10, 2012, 05:38:18 PM »
No, if the back LED light is red then the flash has over heated. If it's orange it is slave (by default, this can be changed in cFn), and green is master (by default). I haven't overheated any of my 3 600-RT's so I can't comment if 'reddish orange' is the red backlight indicating overheating, but that makes sense to me. This is all documented in that thick manual they sent along with the flash.

Don't know your exact circumstances, I do know that these flashes can't take too many pops. The manual states (by memory) that after 10 consecutive flashes it needs a rest. 1/64 or 1/32 should be a light load, but maybe they were also in the sun? Not like these little flashes have heat sinks, and they're dumping a goodly current off those caps.
They are not in the sun they are in a dark reception. If they can't shoot off 10 or 20 consecutive pops at 1/64 power then I am very disappointed because like I said before my 580exII flashes never did anything like that.  What is also frustrating is if one of them overheats it causes the rest to stop working until you turn it off.  It also doesn't "recover" until you flip the switch off and turn it back on which isn't always convenient when you are in the middle of something important at a wedding reception and the flash is 10 feet in the air across the room through a crowd of people.  This seems ridiculous and it doesn't look like there is a possible fix.       

71
Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 10, 2012, 05:31:54 PM »
What does the overheat indicator say?  I think it would give you a hint.  If the rear is turning orange, as in badly discolored, I'd sure return it to Canon.

It isn't discolored I think it is supposed to turn that color but I don't know the reason.  The back display turns other colors as well.  For example green is master and orange is slave.  I had not seen the red before so I am assuming it turns that way for a reason like overheating.  But what I don't understand is why would it overheat when the power level is only at 1/32 or 1/64 power.  I could shoot all night with my 580exII flashes at that level with no problem. 

72
Lighting / 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 10, 2012, 09:03:43 AM »
I love the 600ex flashes and don't think I will go back to using pocket wizards, however I have one major complaint about them and I was curious if anyone else had the same problem.  I have three of them that I use at wedding receptions.  One on the camera and two slaves on stands.  I always have the slaves set to manual at a low power (usually 1/32 or 1/64).  I started to notice that some of the slaves stopped working and I just figured the batteries were out.  I got battery packs hoping that they would last all reception which they should because my 580exII flashes lasted all reception with no battery packs.  Well even the 600ex flashes with battery packs stopped working at really bad times which is annoying because if you have them all linked and one stops working then they all stop firing.  I hate that so much and I don't know why it works that way.  Last night I noticed the back of the flash that stopped working the whole display was a a reddish orange.  Anyone know what that means?  I turned the flash off and turned it back on and it worked perfectly the rest of the reception.  Then the other slave flash did the same thing and again I turned it off and back on and it worked perfectly the remainder of the time.  I just don't understand what is going on.  I am using them at a very low power level it isn't like I am rapid fire shooting at full power.  These wonderful flashes seem to have a serious problem.   

73
So I have been shooting weddings for about 3 years now and I have never had a card issue yet but I know it will happen one day.  I only use extreem pro SD or Lexar Professional cards.  I have herd over and over to use small cards and that way if one fails you haven't lost everything.  My thoughts on that is that if a card is in a camera it is also less likely that it will get lost or stolen than 3-5 cards in your bag/wallet.  One time I ejected one of my CF cards a little too hard and it flew out on the ground.  So I don't really like removing cards unless I have to.  So I guess there are pros an cons to both ways.  Since the 5D3 came out I have been putting two large cards (64GB) in the camera and just leaving them in there the whole 12 hour day.  If the camera is backing up to both cards I should be okay for the most part.  I just herd today of a case where a camera produced some kind of charge that killed both cards so now I am nervous again.  Has anyone ever had both cards in there camera fail before and how likely is that to happen?  I will be happy when the technology is good enough that you can instantly transfer your images to your laptop quickly and wirelessly.  I know the technology exists now but I don't think it is fast enough to transfer large volumes of images quickly.     

74
Lenses / Re: What is you wedding kit?
« on: June 05, 2012, 05:57:18 PM »
I have two 5D3 bodies on me with a 70-200 f/2.8L IS and the other with a 50mm f/1.2L.  I also keep a 28mm 1.8 in a little waist shooter bag that I can swap out with the 50mm when I need a wider angle.  I can do almost anything with those lenses.  I am not a big fan of the 24-70 because even though it is a well rounded lens it is boring in my opinion.  I also have a 100 f/2.8L IS Macro for shots of the rings. 

75
EOS Bodies / Re: Shoot JPEG again with 5D3
« on: May 30, 2012, 10:46:40 AM »
if you can get it right in camera then you don't need raw

Absolutely correct. And if you can't always get it right in camera you need RAW. My hit rate is not 100%, so....

PW

My hit rate isn't 100% and I still shoot JPEG.  As long as the WB is very close and the exposure is pretty close then there isn't ever a problem for me. 

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