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Messages - jaayres20

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5DMk3 at wedding receptions
« on: June 11, 2012, 06:50:09 PM »
I have noticed there is a big difference between a few of my lenses.

Are you using lenses with a f4 or even f5.6 open aperture, and how do these perform? I'm asking because I've got the 70-300L/4-5.6 and wouldn't like to see that the af performance on the 5d3 isn't any better than on the 5d2 or 60d...

Sorry all I have are fast prime lenses and the 70-200 f/2.8L IS II. 

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5DMk3 at wedding receptions
« on: June 11, 2012, 05:31:16 PM »
I had the same frustrations but I noticed that it would actually focus before the red light flashed so I switched the priority to shot and I often take the picture before the read light and almost all of the time it is in focus.  What lens are you using?  I have noticed there is a big difference between a few of my lenses.  The 70-200 does really well in light that is almost too dark for my eyes to see.  The 50mm 1.2 is horrible and when I what good consistant focus with fast moving dancing I switch to the 28mm 1.8.  If focuses fast and benefits more from the AF assist on the flash.  It really helps to find an area with just a little bit of contrast like a shirt collar or a tie against a white shirt.  Often those areas are in the same focal plain and are easier to attain focus.  Good luck!

Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 10, 2012, 09:22:02 PM »
This may be a dumb question but are you sure they were firing at only 1/64?

Try test firing one at 1/64 ten times in a row and see if it overheats and activates the red screen. Then wait and try 20. It shouldn't overheat at that power level.
Yes they were on a lower power setting like 1/64 or 1/32. I know for a fact that they can shoot 10 in a row at 1/16. I love the flashes for the most part. They overheat at wired and random times. It is like they know when is the worst time to act up and do it just to make things hard. Kind of like my kids.

Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 10, 2012, 05:38:18 PM »
No, if the back LED light is red then the flash has over heated. If it's orange it is slave (by default, this can be changed in cFn), and green is master (by default). I haven't overheated any of my 3 600-RT's so I can't comment if 'reddish orange' is the red backlight indicating overheating, but that makes sense to me. This is all documented in that thick manual they sent along with the flash.

Don't know your exact circumstances, I do know that these flashes can't take too many pops. The manual states (by memory) that after 10 consecutive flashes it needs a rest. 1/64 or 1/32 should be a light load, but maybe they were also in the sun? Not like these little flashes have heat sinks, and they're dumping a goodly current off those caps.
They are not in the sun they are in a dark reception. If they can't shoot off 10 or 20 consecutive pops at 1/64 power then I am very disappointed because like I said before my 580exII flashes never did anything like that.  What is also frustrating is if one of them overheats it causes the rest to stop working until you turn it off.  It also doesn't "recover" until you flip the switch off and turn it back on which isn't always convenient when you are in the middle of something important at a wedding reception and the flash is 10 feet in the air across the room through a crowd of people.  This seems ridiculous and it doesn't look like there is a possible fix.       

Lighting / Re: 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 10, 2012, 05:31:54 PM »
What does the overheat indicator say?  I think it would give you a hint.  If the rear is turning orange, as in badly discolored, I'd sure return it to Canon.

It isn't discolored I think it is supposed to turn that color but I don't know the reason.  The back display turns other colors as well.  For example green is master and orange is slave.  I had not seen the red before so I am assuming it turns that way for a reason like overheating.  But what I don't understand is why would it overheat when the power level is only at 1/32 or 1/64 power.  I could shoot all night with my 580exII flashes at that level with no problem. 

Lighting / 600ex-rt overheating?
« on: June 10, 2012, 09:03:43 AM »
I love the 600ex flashes and don't think I will go back to using pocket wizards, however I have one major complaint about them and I was curious if anyone else had the same problem.  I have three of them that I use at wedding receptions.  One on the camera and two slaves on stands.  I always have the slaves set to manual at a low power (usually 1/32 or 1/64).  I started to notice that some of the slaves stopped working and I just figured the batteries were out.  I got battery packs hoping that they would last all reception which they should because my 580exII flashes lasted all reception with no battery packs.  Well even the 600ex flashes with battery packs stopped working at really bad times which is annoying because if you have them all linked and one stops working then they all stop firing.  I hate that so much and I don't know why it works that way.  Last night I noticed the back of the flash that stopped working the whole display was a a reddish orange.  Anyone know what that means?  I turned the flash off and turned it back on and it worked perfectly the rest of the reception.  Then the other slave flash did the same thing and again I turned it off and back on and it worked perfectly the remainder of the time.  I just don't understand what is going on.  I am using them at a very low power level it isn't like I am rapid fire shooting at full power.  These wonderful flashes seem to have a serious problem.   

So I have been shooting weddings for about 3 years now and I have never had a card issue yet but I know it will happen one day.  I only use extreem pro SD or Lexar Professional cards.  I have herd over and over to use small cards and that way if one fails you haven't lost everything.  My thoughts on that is that if a card is in a camera it is also less likely that it will get lost or stolen than 3-5 cards in your bag/wallet.  One time I ejected one of my CF cards a little too hard and it flew out on the ground.  So I don't really like removing cards unless I have to.  So I guess there are pros an cons to both ways.  Since the 5D3 came out I have been putting two large cards (64GB) in the camera and just leaving them in there the whole 12 hour day.  If the camera is backing up to both cards I should be okay for the most part.  I just herd today of a case where a camera produced some kind of charge that killed both cards so now I am nervous again.  Has anyone ever had both cards in there camera fail before and how likely is that to happen?  I will be happy when the technology is good enough that you can instantly transfer your images to your laptop quickly and wirelessly.  I know the technology exists now but I don't think it is fast enough to transfer large volumes of images quickly.     

Lenses / Re: What is you wedding kit?
« on: June 05, 2012, 05:57:18 PM »
I have two 5D3 bodies on me with a 70-200 f/2.8L IS and the other with a 50mm f/1.2L.  I also keep a 28mm 1.8 in a little waist shooter bag that I can swap out with the 50mm when I need a wider angle.  I can do almost anything with those lenses.  I am not a big fan of the 24-70 because even though it is a well rounded lens it is boring in my opinion.  I also have a 100 f/2.8L IS Macro for shots of the rings. 

EOS Bodies / Re: Shoot JPEG again with 5D3
« on: May 30, 2012, 10:46:40 AM »
if you can get it right in camera then you don't need raw

Absolutely correct. And if you can't always get it right in camera you need RAW. My hit rate is not 100%, so....


My hit rate isn't 100% and I still shoot JPEG.  As long as the WB is very close and the exposure is pretty close then there isn't ever a problem for me. 

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Image Review Camera vs Lightroom
« on: May 29, 2012, 09:29:16 PM »
Why is it that my 5D3 can very quickly render a 100% view of my image and Lightroom takes a lot longer?  It isn't like I have a slow computer.  I have an imac with a 3Ghz processor and 16GB of RAM.  I don't even shoot RAW just JPEG.  I am considering connecting my camera to a TV or monitor to rate images before I import them into Lightroom.  Has anyone done that and if so how do you like it?

EOS Bodies / Re: Shoot JPEG again with 5D3
« on: May 29, 2012, 08:15:57 PM »

But why get yourself a 5D3 to shoot JPEG? There must have been a bazillion words written in the RAW vs JPEG debate and the pro-RAW conclusions remain totally valid.

Frankly it freaks me out to shoot JPEG on any camera other than my phone...the potential for post-pro grief makes it a non-starter. If you know for 100% certain your output requirements are modest, check out mRAW.

I bought 2 5D3s to shoot JPEG only.  I have shot RAW exclusively for years and edited probably over 100,000 RAW and JPEG images.  RAW is really only a benefit to me when I miss the exposure or WB.  Sure RAW captures a lot more information but if you don't need that information then it is a waste.  I shoot 20-30 weddings a year and probably shoot 3000-5000 pictures per wedding and a good JPEG is just as good as a RAW image unless your settings are off or you plan on doing extensive dodging or burning.  If you shoot manual and dial in the WB using the Kelvin color temperature and the WB shift to properly balance the color of the light source your JPEG is going to be as good if not better than if it were taken in RAW.       

Why shoot 5000 photos at one wedding?

Not saying what you are doing is wrong, I'm just genuinely curious. I usually take about 1000 per wedding, and I feel that is a lot. How many photos go into an album you make?

5000 photos would kill my workflow. It would take too much time. Time = money, so less photos means more money.

So, just curious why you shoot so many? How many keepers do you get out of that 5k?

I am usually shooting for 12 hours with few breaks. I deliver between 1200-1800 edited pictures for the client. It takes me about 8-10 hours to cull and edit a wedding.

Lenses / 85mm f/1.2 vs 200mm f/2
« on: May 29, 2012, 07:39:22 PM »
I want both of these lenses badly. I love a very shallow DOF and even use the Brenizer Method to get an even shallower DOF. My question is to those who have used both lenses which lens has better bokeh?  Or are they even comparable? 

That is simply not true.  The IQ of a good JPEG with a nailed exposure and manual WB is just as good as the IQ of a RAW processed image.
You shoot weddings - you've got it easy. Yes, I'm very well aware of the pressures of wedding photography, and the photography itself is way down on that list.

You've got all the time in the world (comparatively speaking) to put your subjects where you want them; to get the light right; to take a ton of frames, chimping between shots to check the histogram, to get the shot you want.

Come back to me when you've successfully tried shooting uncooperative, tiny, hyperactive birds that are inviariably in the wrong place for the (routinely crappy) light I deal with in the UK, and get back to me...

Out of a 10 hour day I have control of about 30-45 minutes to put my subjects where I want them and find the best light.  The rest of the time I am usually challenged by the worst lighting possible and I have no control of the subjects in relation to bad or worse light.  Most locations have mixed light sources and low or no light.  There is hardly ever time to do any chimping between shots because you can't miss anything important at a wedding and nobody is going to slow down while you check your histogram.  If you miss a shot you get to try again.  If I miss an important shot I could get sued.  I have respect for your photography and I have never tried it but don't bash mine because you think I have it easy.  I am sure if you ask 5 wedding photographers you know they will all tell you how difficult it is. 

Here is an image from a recent wedding that I shot in JPEG. There is nothing I could have gained from shooting this RAW and I consider it a very important client image that needs to have the highest IQ possible.

Yes that's a very nice image. No question. But keep shooting JPEG only and the day WILL come when you kick yourself hard for not shooting RAW. Why do you think photographers with the deepest experience shoot RAW? It's not to be cool. It's professional. RAW gives you a lot more headroom and that will either save the day for you in a big way or just mean better images for your client.

I remember once not getting a job I quoted on because I was too young. It was nothing to do with my portfolio or bad breath. The client said they only hire photographers aged 45 or over. Why? They never stuff up. Now that is a very narrow viewpoint, but there is something in it isn't there? Evolved professionalism has many subtle dimensions. Shoot RAW.

Paul Wright

I know there have been a few times I wished the image was RAW but those times have become fewer and further between.  One day it may come back to hurt me we will see.  There are, however, very experienced professional wedding photographers that shoot only JPEG.  Mike Colon is one of them and he shoots three million dollar celebrity weddings.  He charges over $20,000 for a wedding and he feels comfortable enough to shoot JPEG throughout the wedding.  I think it just comes down to a preference and style. 

i'm confused  :o , the jpeg files out of camera are soft mushy over processed and all round terrible. I cant see why you would want to use them when you have RAW format available. why buy a $3500 camera to shoot jpg files?
I dont quite get it

They are definitely not mushy and are very sharp indeed.  Why not shoot JPEG if you can get just as good results?  RAW is not magic and you have a lot of controls in the camera that will allow you process your JPEG with very precise results.   

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