Love this shot!
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I few shots from AZ....love this time of year down there, 80's with low humidity, and flowers in bloom everywhere.
Thanks again for suggestions...I went to Sedona, Pinnacle Peak, Phoenix botanical garden, and "lost dog trail".
Some pretty results. I think I recognize the spot in the first image - along the "Lost Dog Trailhead" , right? Sedona is always pretty easy to identify. You're right, by the way, this is the perfect time of year to visit AZ.
I don't follow hockey, but would recognize the Wild, the Gophers, and the old North Stars. I grew up here in the 60's and "north star" means hockey, not a light in the sky. Your nickname made me suspect Minnesota, but it was this from your April 4 post that gave it away.A couple shots from the Minnesota HS state hockey tournament....both through the glass...70-200ii
You have a knack for capturing the moment. I particularly like the shot with the player in the black jersey seemingly levitating above the ice. How much of this do you credit to timing vs. a capture from a 12 fps burst.
Most of my sports action has been with a 7D. 8 fps is nice, but I can't rely on it in figure skating. When you start photographing skaters in jumps, you realize that 80-90% of their air time is less than flattering when frozen in time. 8 fps isn't fast enough to reliable capture that prize moment.
Northstar, thanks for sharing the details and for the discussion. I found it quite valuable.
I like using the monopod for shooting 90 minute figure skating exhibitions where I can shoot from one of the hockey player boxes. I can't say that it really helps sharpen the image vs. hand-held. But, after about a half hour of constant tracking of skaters, some fatigue sets in and the monopod makes it easier for me to track skaters while constantly following with the zoom ring. For other indoor school sports, like basketball and volleyball, I free hand it. A monopod would get in the way.
FYI, small world. That local rink that I shoot at isn't far from the Xcel Center.
1Dx 400f/2.8 V2, shot @ f/8 & 1/250th.
Around 1 in 4 Leopard Cubs survive to maturity, when really young Baboons & Hyenas are the main protagonists, from 1 year onwards it becomes Lions. Cubs will hang around with Mum for up to 3 years, then they are pushed out to go their own way, although Dads have no involvement in the Cubs, I have frequently seen Large Dad leopards handing over a treed kill to a Cub they know is theirs, until they are around 18 Months Old Cubs are unable to Tree a Kill, so Mum takes it up & lets Junior eat in peace & safety from Hyenas & Lions that would otherwise steal the Kill.
I think we offer more than our opinions. We share our experiences, our understanding of the technologies, and our resources that form these opinions. This is why I like this forum.
I've heard the IS/VR has no affect at speeds above 1/500 argument before. But, this never made sense to me.
My experience has been heavily influenced decades ago by trying to get sharp images with an FTb-n and an FD 80-210 f4.0. 1/500 just wasn't fast enough to reliably eliminate camera shake. Consequently, I equated the "turn VR/IS off after 1/500" as "1/500 is fast enough to eliminate shake" debate.
More recently, I've taken photos of still subjects (people posing) with small primes including the 40 f2.8. According to the reciprocal rule, 1/80 of a second should be more than fast enough to eliminate camera shake. But, group photos of my kid's volleyball team at 1/80 just aren't nearly as sharp as ones taken at 1/800. Similare phots taken with IS lenses at 1/80 were tack sharp.
Thanks to Northstar's link to Scott Kelby's comments on VR, I did more digging on the technical limitations of VR and IS. I can see where 1/500 does represent the upper limit of VR lenses, but I'm still in search of that limit for Canon's IS lenses. (Sure wish Canon would address how best to use IS on it's lenses, which I suspect may vary with the lens.)
Most of my action experience with the 70-200 f2.8 has been with a 7D in poorly lit ice rinks and gyms. (Sadly, the rinks don't often use all the lights for figure skating, but they turn them all on for hockey.) I've rarely been able to shoot above 1/640 and most often shoot at 1/500, not fast enough to feel I didn't need IS. So, I've been eager to learn of the experience of professional Canon shooters.
The post of Jon Willey was most informative, just the kind of first-hand experience that I was seeking. Thanks for posting it. What was missing in the interview was typical shutter speed range. What's the slowest Willey feels comfortable with? I can't say that I've ever experienced the IS "jump" to which he referred. This does make me wonder if this is more an issue with the big lenses and not so much with the 70-200.
I've recently purchased a 5D3 and can now shoot closer to 1/1000 at the rink. Thanks to this discussion, I'm compelled to experiment more with IS on and off. At the rink, I do shoot with a monopod (and IS on) and believe it has helped sharpen my images. But, I don't have concrete evidence (haven't really tried side by side comparisons).
Northstar, about those hockey shots, do you recall the shutter speed? Were you hand-held or monopod (or something else)?
Great shots, Northstar! Having spent countless hours trying capture figure skating, I can appreciate everything that went into these shots, particularly the timing. Was this with your 1Dx or 5D3?
Back to the IS question. When to use IS is still a hotly debated topic. I suspect the real answer is “it depends.” It may depend on the focal length, the body (FF or crop), the subject matter, and/or the manufacturer.
In this thread, we are considering a T2i with the EF 70-200 f2.8L USM IS II.
First, I still contend that 1/500 isn't fast enough to eliminate camera blur while shooting hand held action shots with a 200 mm lens on a crop body, which magnifies image movement over that of a FF body.
Second, Nikon's VR and Canon's IS are different systems with different algorithms. Canon pioneered lens-based image stabilization in 1995. Nikon played catch-up in 2000. Canon starts stabilizing the image when the shutter is pressed half-way, before focus is locked. Nikon initiates when the shutter button is pressed half-way, but does a “recenter” action just before the shutter is tripped. Nikon uses a sampling rate of 1000Hz (1/1000 sec) which means it's only accurate to half that speed, or 1/500 sec. This supports Scott Kelby's advice to turn off VR when shooting at or above 1/500. It also supports the notion that VR can get in the way of rapid burst sports bodies.
However, Kelby was talking about Nikon's VR, not Canon's IS.
[Here's more detail on Nikon's VR system http://www.bythom.com/nikon-vr.htm]
Canon hasn't published it's sampling frequency and Canon officially states that it's IS system is designed to aid the focus system even at high speeds. When asked about using IS for photographing skiing with high shutter speeds, Canon's Chuck Westfall, says leave it on http://digitaljournalist.org/issue1002/tech-tips.html (see 8th question).
The Digital Picture's forum includes a more detailed response from Canon on this subject [from
Canon does not quote the sampling frequency for its Image Stabilizer mechanisms. Also, Canon does not recommend users to avoid using IS at fast shutter speeds. The visual effects of IS in captured images diminish as the shutter speed increases over 1/focal length, but the use of IS for moving subjects in these conditions can be beneficial because it presents a steadier image to the camera's AF detection mechanism.
We can can confirm that it takes about a half second for Image Stabilization to become operational with most IS-equipped EF and EF-S lenses. Even so, Image Stabilization is a useful tool for many photographic applications including bird photography at high shutter speeds. However, like any other tool, it requires good technique on the part of the user for best results. Additionally, some photographers may prefer to shut it off at least occasionally depending on their shooting style. Bottom line, it makes no sense to declare that IS is either "all good" or "all bad" when it comes to bird photography. Use it when you need it, and for best results, let it come up to speed before you release the shutter.
Incidentally, it is not necessarily true that IS must be shut off and re-engaged when AF is shut off and re-engaged. IS can operate independently from AF through Custom Function control. On current EOS models, for instance, Custom Function IV-1-2 allows IS to be operated by the shutter release and AF to be operated by the AF-ON button. Using this method, IS remains active for several seconds after pressing the shutter button halfway while disengaging and then reengaging AF.
Canon IS and Nikon VR do not share the same operational principles, so this question cannot be answered as written. The IS specifications mentioned in "EF Lens Work III" refer to the degree of lens movement, not the sampling frequency of the gyro sensors.
Back to the question of IS on for hockey with a T2i. The T2i FPS rate is 3.7 and likely too slow for image stabilization to impede it's rate (if Canon's IS would do so). This leaves us with two questions. Is there a shutter speed limit with Canon's IS such that faster speeds do nothing to further steady the image? Is there a shutter speed and/or frame rate that will “fight” with Canon's IS system and impede focus lock?
Sadly, Canon's official documentation and lens user manuals do not answer either of these questions. I have found nothing definitive from Canon or specifically about Canon's IS system that supports the notion that it's IS is not effective beyond 1/500 second or will degrade focus lock at higher speeds.
While I still think it's best to leave IS on with high shutter speeds – that it won't hurt and may help – I'd still like a more definitive answer from Canon. With a 70-200 on a T2i at 1/500, I still say leave it on (in Mode 2). At 1/1000, it may not matter. In between, good question.
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Regarding IS, leave it on and in mode 2. According to Chuck Westfall, IS provides a steady image that helps the camera lock on to focus.
Last note regarding ISO. This sounds counterintuitive, but it's better to overexpose at 6400 than underexpose at 3200. Noise happens when pixels are starved for light. Overexposing (1/3 to 2/3 stops) helps prevent this and the exposure can be fixed in post. Experiment with ISO. If you doubt shooting this high, experiment with some, then go back to comfort ISO. 1600 was my comfort zone max until I started experimenting, now I routinely shoot between 2000 and 4000
Thanks for the reply!
I just bought a refurbished t2i yesterday from Canon Store (can't help buying it due to the attractive price at $336 ). Will try it out to see how it goes.
Regarding to the IS lens, should I turn it off or set it to mode 2 when shooting hockey? Thanks again!
Grew up in Scottsdale. Depending on the scale you want, you can find a lot of great settings right there in Scottsdale (particularly North Scottsdale towards Fountain Hills). This shot was taken hiking up Scottsdale Mountain (about 130th, I believe)
Arise by Thousand Word Images by Dustin Abbott, on Flickr
There is a trail nearby into the McDowell's called "Lost Dog Trailhead" that goes through a lot of great country. This was taken at the base of that trail.
Desert Magic by Thousand Word Images by Dustin Abbott, on Flickr
All of the other spots that have been recommended are great if you have transportation. Sedona/Oak Creek Canyon are no brainers. Some of the other killer spots are near Paige in the Northeast corner of the state, but require more driving.
Okay, processing is done...
THESE ARE LOW QUALITY RESIZED COPIES
IT WAS A BRIGHT SUNNY DAY, LITTLE SHADE AND HOT AS HELL,
I DID MY BEST TO GET THEM DONE AND BACK IN THE A/C AS SOON AS
POSSIBLE. I HAVE A CRAPPY CRAPPY KIT LENS EF 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS
.... AND THEY WANTED HDR LOOKING SHOTS, BLACK AND WHITE, ETC.
I'M POSTING SOME RANDOM GOOD (NOT GREAT) AND SOME BAD ONES SO YOU
CAN SEE MY RANGE,.... PLEASE BE KIND !
It was a good day, so here are the results / outcome:
1) I took too much gear, flashes, tripods, etc.
2) I took a desk fan and extension cord SO WORTH IT ! It was freaking HOT!
3) Laptop worked great, while I ate, moved pics from SD card to laptop.
4) My son helped out, that was good, two people is way better than one.
5) I took 1,547 pictures, about 350 came out okay, 10-15 were good, none were excellent.
6) I made a CD of the pictures, a photo story DVD and two printed albums for them.
7) Getting $500.00 and investing in this: http://www.amazon.com/Canon-70-300mm-USM-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B0040X4PQI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=BXUXWWTANG66&coliid=I2JEP8WCBHXD6
PLEASE BE KIND ! MY FIRST (PROBABLY LAST *cry* ) WEDDING SHOOT !
Before you reply, watch this.... w w w . y o u t u b e . c o m / w a t c h ? v = 3 i 6 T 8 Y t B X m A