August 28, 2014, 03:15:06 AM

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Messages - Northstar

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Many years ago, I was given the advice that you insure yourself only against events that happen very rarely and are too expensive for you to cover. If you can afford to replace your gear, then don't insure it...

The OP mentions having $45,000 worth of gear – that's about what I have, and I'd find it difficult (if not impossible) to replace that amount in the short term.

But a good reminder is that you should consider carefully before filing a claim, at least for US policies covering personal (not business) use.  Those are generally linked to homeowners'/renters' policies, claims against them go into the same database (CLUE), and can affect rates and even eligibility for home/rental coverage. 

I view my policy as 'catastrophic' coverage.  If I drop my 135/2L to the pavement and it shatters, I'll buy a new one.  If my 1D X + 600/4L IS II fall off a cliff, or if my house is robbed and all my gear taken, I'll file a claim.

Agree...that's how I would handle it too.....generally.

I personally like the green skin tones (at least on the camera's LCD) of the D800. /sarcasm

More than the hue, the live view implementation of the D800 completely killed any interest I had in it, one of my primary interests in the D810 is to see what they did in that area.
Nikon D800 Live View MF Issue followup

the green is like a combination of "oscar the grouch" green and "swamp monster" yeah, pretty cool if you like those things.    ;D ::) ;)

I built a focus rail and shot about 20 frames but the result that came out processed with PS CS5 was incorrect.  PS chose all the OOF frames and thus what I got was a 100% blurry photo.

My question to the experts here, when you use a rail to select a focus plane, will the image in front of the selected plane be slightly larger because the camera/lens is closer and the image behind the selected plane be smaller, so as you change positions during the process, what would happen to the stacked end product photo?
Conversely, if the camera/lens is held stationary, and the focus is selected by adjusting the lens focusing mechanism, what will be the result?

My setup: 5D3 with remote flash mounted on hot shoe, 100 mm_f/2.8 with Kenko extension ring, and the camera is controlled with CamRanger all mounted with a screw operated rail.

Thanks for the advice.

Personally, when focus stacking, I never change the frame i.e. camera never moves. Here is my very basic MO

1. Fix camera on tripod
2. Frame your subject - use live view.
3. Manually focus and shoot a bunch of images - each focusing on a different plane of your subject. Use remote etc.
4. Process in PS.

Hope this helps


i've never done focus pardon my noobness:

step for example...i'm shooting a flower at a 45 degree angle....i aim the first shot at the furthest petal, the next shot at a petal slightly closer, and so on and so on and so on until i've shot 8-12 images.

is this the basic strategy?  (for step #3)

Abstract / Re: Beautiful bokeh! Let me see yours!
« on: July 10, 2014, 02:14:30 PM »

IMG_4169 by ecka84, on Flickr

IMG_1941 by ecka84, on Flickr

IMG_1606 by ecka84, on Flickr

great shots!!   love the spider...unique shot!

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Tips on shooting hockey?
« on: July 10, 2014, 02:05:13 PM »
glad you're having fun shooting hockey!!

as i said, your shots are very good...could easily be used for professional coverage!

if posting for online and small print use only, you could crop a couple a little bit more like this example i brings the viewer in closer to the action like being in the front row.

it's all subjective though...your composition looks great too!

original and then one that i cropped a bit more.


Photography Technique / Re: 85 vs 135 for portraits
« on: July 09, 2014, 03:17:25 PM »
I would suggest the 70-200's such a wonderful and multipurpose lens.

Looking at shots from the 70-200 2.8ii compared to primes in it's focal range and there just isn't enough difference that warrants limiting yourself to just the 85, or 135, or 200.   The 85 1.2 is a great lens for portraits, but forget about it if you're trying to shoot anything that's moving, so if you're on a budget like you say, wouldn't you rather have more of a multipurpose lens that can do so much more than the 85 1.2 for about the same $?   

Think about your longer term goals/needs for photography in general.  For me, I realized after time that I hate switching lenses all the time and carrying them all with me.  So eventually i ended up with the 24-70 and 70-200 to cover 90% of my needs with excellent quality.   

good luck,

Photography Technique / Re: 85 vs 135 for portraits
« on: July 09, 2014, 08:32:42 AM »
What will you be using/ doing for the next year or two?!
I'm confused...

I am too...but I assume saving for it?

:'( Goodbye my dear 5d mk III . You were my first "real" love. You were so quick and comfortable in my hands. I loved the way you felt. When we were together, we were "one in the same". You were the peanut butter to my jelly. Simply amazing and skilled in every aspect. Your resolution, dynamic range and AF were as real as it got. I even loved your previous model almost as much. You were my "King of the World."

I have decided its time to move on. We just don't see eye to eye anymore. I need more! You see, I have grown and you have remained static. You're not willing to change. You sit idly by while my new friend, Nikon, keeps growing. She will have upgraded quite a few times since you came to market. She knows that I need more and she is willing to give it me. She has more dynamic range now, a great AF system and, as you already know, more MP. She is willing to give me the resolution when I enlarge. You're not! And, she will feel better in my hand.

And, don't feel to bad. I'm sure you will get your chance to change and improve. I know you will eventually, but I am tired of waiting and the false promises. I hear whispers and rumors hear and there, but they are nothing more than that. I also know you are do for a "change" and I do believe it will happen by the end of the year. I cannot survive on the false promises. And based upon your past, I'm sure your price will be a lot higher.

However, I will never forget you. I will remember the fun we had in Maine, Oregon, and Yellowstone. I will never forget the time we traveled thousand of miles to banff national park, only to be flooded out for five days. I will also remember the time we got soaked under the waterfall in Iceland. Those were great memorable times!

Do I regret anything? Well, let's just say that I wish we had more resolution together. We could have printed so much lager than 32x48. It would have made all the difference in the world to me. I want to leave you with one final thought as you find a new home. Don't let the door hit you in the A$$.  :o

Funny and well written!  ;D

Canon will probably drop their rumored 46mp about a month or so after you've owned the Nikon. ::)

Shot a rodeo the other evening.  When the artificial lighting came on, I started getting strange exposures on my images.  Only at 12 fps. Several white balance settings - same issue.  Next day I tested in very lighting conditions and it appears that the artificial light is the culprit.  Has anyone else seen this?  And what could be causing it?


Jerry...It's most common in older fluorescent lighting at faster shutter speeds...and it's normal.   I've had it happen many times with my 1dx.  Newer more modern lighting is much better.

The article below explains the problem in an easy to understand way...(link below)

"This article will hopefully explain the difficulties associated with photographing under fluorescent light and advise on how best to deal with the problem.

Fluorescent light bulbs emit photons as electricity excites the atoms inside them.  Our homes and businesses are powered by alternating current (AC). This type of current is continually reversing polarity in a cycle known as a sine wave.

As the current goes from zero to positive to zero to negative and back, the changing voltage causes the excited atoms in the fluorescent tubes to emit light of different intensity and different wavelengths. This results in a light source of continually changing brightness and color temperatur

Take care,

Animal Kingdom / Re: Show us your Hooters (Owls)
« on: July 07, 2014, 10:24:04 PM »
Here's a couple:



Technical Support / Re: CF CARD speed question. Am ignorant.
« on: July 07, 2014, 04:14:14 AM »
Wopbv please do not trash your bad cards, most of them have life long warranty, just send them back for replacement!

I will later today make a test: I will shoot with the cards individually in my camera and keep the shutter pressed for 10 seconds. If at end of 10 seconds both cards have equal number of shots, my concerns are over. In any case I will pack spare cards. Am taking a laptop and will empty cards as needed.

I will set the camera to manual, ISO 800, 1/1000s.

Will update.

i agree with wopbv regarding bad cards...damaged cards....lost cards...etc.   I've had all three happen to me and that's why i strongly prefer multiple smaller cards vs large cards.


also...this thread might help you...

Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: July 06, 2014, 06:43:59 PM »
pelican giving his neck a rest. ;D

or maybe this is just how they relax after a big meal  ;)

Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: July 06, 2014, 06:41:03 PM »
Juvenile Bald Eagles - pretty sure the last photo is of number 2.  These guys are at a nest that I usually find adult eagles... I've seen the adults here several times over the last couple years, the spring before last I spotted a baby in the nest.  This visit the adults were no-where to be seen.  Question - do the adults give the nest to their young?

great just don't see these very often!  thanks!

Navy Leapfrogs

i've never seen that before...must be fun to watch!  nice photo!

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