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Messages - GMCPhotographics

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1
EOS Bodies / Re: Make yourself happy
« on: May 24, 2013, 06:40:21 AM »
This is my idea of fun!

I'm just waiting for someone to post that their 600mm f4 snapped off their EOS-m when they picked up the camera and not the lens.....It's gonna happen at some point!

2
EOS Bodies / Re: Make yourself happy
« on: May 24, 2013, 06:37:28 AM »
The 100D has no Kelvin WB, so no sale.

?? What a strange statement to make??
It can shoot in RAW....and that's really easy to adjust WB.

If you don't have a need or want for a 100D, just say so...but please don't hinge buying / not buying based on some buried tech spec. It just sounds like Cognative Dissonance.
I have no need or want for a 100D...I have a pair of 5DIII's and an S90 which fullfill all of my photographic needs. There is little that a 100D which my 5DIII's can't!

3
Lenses / Re: Canon 200-400mm review
« on: May 24, 2013, 06:06:30 AM »
http://pixsylated.com/blog/peter-read-miller-canon-200-400mm-london-olympics/


Lol...I was in the audience when this shot was taken and yes I saw this chap with this lens in the Press pit.
Give me a few days and I'll dig out a photo of this very moment from a less ideal spot :D

4
I only covet my neibours OX or is that OSX  :o

5
A 140-285/2.8 is pretty much a mythical 200-400/4 with a wider AoV and a 1.4x telecompressor built in. Use that as the basis of the price and availability, should Canon come to the conclusion that there is a market for such a lens.

With the 70-200 II and 300 II and most pros having two bodies, I'd have thought there's not much call for such a lens. Especially bearing in mind what the zoom would be likely to cost.

It would probably be more expensive and heavier than the current 300mm f2.8 L IS II...so is there a point in bringing such a lens to the market? Especially considering the failings of the Sigma 120-300 OS, it would need to be a true 300mm at the long end and keep that focal lenght through the focus range, a true f2.8 and have stellar AF and IQ. It would be bigger and heavier that the prime....so why not take a 70-200 f2.8 on one cam and the prime on another? It's not too difficult and a lot of press pros already do that.
A classic pro line up is either a 16-35/24-70/70-200 line up or a 24-70/70-200/300 line up. Each with a cam fitted, ready to shoot.

6

What Neuro said is also applicable to the 7D, metering is weighted more towards what is in focus [...]

This is how Canon's evaluative metering worked since the 300D (at least). I noticed however that my 350D and my 50D were more sensitive to the AF point than my 5D2.

Yep my old 5D classic was really AF hotspot prone too. In fact every Canon SLR I've used has always been highlight shy, even my old A-1 film slr. In the Digital world this is a good thing because we should all be shooting to preserve our highlights if possible.
AF linked metering is a good thing and not a bad thing. Otherwise all our compositions would be centrally placed to match out metering.

7
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Why is my 5D3 so noisy???
« on: May 24, 2013, 05:48:13 AM »
F9 indoors?

My friend who used to photograph weddings once wondered why his flash couldn't keep up at f5.6 when inside.  I have enough troubles at f2.8.
To be honest if your friend was wondering that, then I'm wondering what he was doing shooting weddings in the first place.


Lol....which says a lot about a large amount of the current crop of new wedding photographers....have camera...can click a button in Auto. After all, P is for Professional..right?

8
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 5D Mk3 Reliability
« on: May 24, 2013, 05:44:09 AM »
I typically set my 5D3 to overexpose by 2/3 stop for natural light, and a full stop for flash (E-TTL II) photography.  I've tested it with a grey card and the exposure seems pretty accurate.  It just seems that my subject matter is mostly light-coloured and so it overcompensates by underexposing.

I guess it depends if you are trying to protect one's highlights (clipping) or keeping the images clean from ISO noise. Sure expose to the right if you want less noise, but expose to the left if there's detail in the whites which need preserving.
At weddings I tend to shoot 2/3's under, but Wildlife and birds I tend to shoot about 2/3 over. I've found the 5DIII is more reliable and consistent at metering than my old 5DII was.

9
I regularly use a 2x TC mk II with mine. It's nearly as sharp as a 400 f5.6L but it's AF is a lot slower. It's heavier and quite a lump to use. The real world focal length is petty simular too.
I've tried to stack my 1.4x III anf 2x mk II and the results needed a fair amount of stopping down get a reasonable level of sharpness. The exposure was a little dark and it really needed a tripod to stabilse the thing. Mine, curiously would AF in bright lit scenes using the centre points but it was very inaccurate and jumpy. Certainly not reliable. I have used the 70-200 and 2x combo on a 7D and wide open it's not as sharp as I'd like and the contrast is lacking. But it was an easy way to get to an effective 600mm+ without going down the big glass route. 

10
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 5D Mk3 Reliability
« on: May 23, 2013, 05:50:48 AM »
Seriously thinking of selling my 5D Mk2 now that I can get a Mk3 for around £1800.

The 1DX just isn't realistic for me given the price and the Mk3 has advantages for what i shoot. The question isn't whether I want one regarding its features. I think it would be a great upgrade now.

Anyhoo, I'm seeing issues regarding reliability popping up on this and other forums regarding issues with it.

I'm concerned that I'll be going from the 5D Mk2, which is pretty much bullet-proof at this point due to how long they've been making them, to something that might let me down due to teething problems which seem to persist over a year since it was released.

Your thoughts, please?
Where are you seeing a 5DIII for £1800? The cheapest i've seen one for is £1929 inc Vat.

I was the first person in Wiltshire to have a 5D, 5DII and 5DIII...My cams are on a three year cycle and one of them always falls on the availability date for the 5D. Weird but true and very expensive....I end up paying through the nose for my "first of the new model".
I've run with my first 5DIII for over a year now and I've covered a lot of different events, weddings, wildlife, wild sea birds, landscapes. It's been in howling rain and wind, sandy beaches in winter (which nearly ruined my Gitzo tripod in one day), rainy weddings, thunder storms...and it hasn't missed a beat.
It's taken a few knocks and still looks kinda fresh. Although compared to my newer 5DIII, it's easy to see which one has had a harder life! The 5DIII is a far better built and more rugged camera than the 5D or 5DII ever was. Sure, there's always the odd manfacturing mistake, the odd rouge camera. But my copies have been consitently good and I would wager that the current 5DIII is nearly a rugged as a 1D series. It's not that far off.
When comparing a pair of 5DIII's to a single 1DX, it's hard to justify the additional expense of the 1DX. The 5DIII does so much so well....and it had that fab silent shutter mode. 6.5 fps is certainly fast enough for most uses, but if you need 12fps....then a 1DX is the only option.
The new AF array takes a while to get used to and to personalise. Please don't buy this on a friday and expect to be proficient in battle the next morning....it's got an entirely new menu system and 80% of this camera is new and improved. I had a 7D for a few years, so that helped a lot. But it was still quite a learning curve.

It's easily the best DSLR i've used professionally. By that, I mean that if you don't need the 12fps of the 1Dx, then the 5DIII is a better choice in nearly every area and it's a bit more versatile due to it's size and stealth.   

11
Lenses / Re: Best fisheye for canon.
« on: May 22, 2013, 06:28:37 PM »
The best fisheye available for Canon (and any system) is the new ef 8-15mm f4 L fisheye. It's the best of the bunch by a long way. It combines full circular 8mm through to 16mm and every point inbetween and some fun zoom bursts too. In my opinion, save and buy the best and let it be the last fisheye you ever buy.
The best fisheye for you....is dependent on your budget and is a personal choice.


Well that is a purely personal opinion, after all I use my fisheye more than most and I have no desire for the 8-15. I don't want the gimmick circular image with horrific CA once, let alone pay for it and carry it always.

As for IQ at 15mm, my Canon prime is very high quality (my testing showed it outperformed two different Canon 14mm lenses even when defished) and all aberrations are easily corrected; and it shoots at f2.8 for half the money and less weight than the zoom f4. Just because it doesn't have a red ring does not mean it isn't the best tool for the job. The 85 f1.8 is another very good example.

For me the zoom is a curiosity that I have no intention of buying, it has no additional functionality for my picture taking than the prime does and is not worth the addition cost.


As I said, functionally the zoom has no equal and is the best fisheye currently available, fact end of...no more discussion. All other choices are personal based on shooting requirements and what you are already using.
I'm suprised to hear you say that an 8mm fish is a gimmic, after all we are talking about fisheye lenses here....they are all low use one trick pony type of lenses....although the zoom is a little more functional. But they are all gimmic lenses.

I've tried most fisheyes on the market and sold many. An 8mm circular fish can be a lot of fun and to disregard it's photographic possibilities is a little narrow minded in my opinion. To say that there's lots of CA makes me wonder if you've even used one. The two copies of the  Sigma 15mm fish I've owned had slightly better optics to the old Canon 15mm fish I had. But the newer f4 Canon Zoom has less than either of them, it's still got a tad of CA but it's a lot lower than the primes. Oh and by the way, it's weather sealed...another common L feature which often gets over looked.

The 85mm f1.8 is a fantastic lens. But I sold my copy for an 85mm f1.2 L with offered me even more creativity and light gathering ability than the f1.8 version. I chose it for that reason and not for it's red ring. Although some people seem to have an Anti-L thang going on....generally the L lenses are a bit better in most areas (build, AF speed, weather sealing, robustness and often in IQ). But for a lot of photographers (non pro) they don't need those extra features or cost. I see so many 70-200/f2.8's about these days where the photographer looks like they have only handled a camera for a few weeks....poor shooting technique and awful posture and hand position. Holding their camera and not the lens like someone holding a pint of Guiness...oh boy!
 


Well it might have more functionality than any other fisheye "fact end of......", but if you have no use for that functionality it is worse than useless. If I was still shooting APS-H it would be good, if you have ff and crop cameras it is a no brainer too, but I don't, I am FF only which means I get a 15mm full frame fisheye and an 8mm circular fisheye. I hate the circular fisheye look and have no interest in it, as for CA I meant on the edge of the frame, not across it, look at the edges of nearly every single circular image here http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/reviews/lenses/canon_ef8-15f4l.html If I wanted to take pictures of rainbows I would be a landscape shooter!

Obviously if somebody wants a full frame fisheye and a circular one, one lens that does both makes sense, similarly if they have mixed sensor sizes the zoom makes sense, if, like me, you just have full frame sensors and are only interested in the full frame fisheye framing then the zoom is not the best buy, the 15mm Canon is, fact end of...no more discussion.

As for the 85, sure the 1.2 is a "better" portrait lens, but try shooting badly illuminated gym basketball in AF with one, in that instance the 1.8 wipes the floor with the 1.2.

As for the full frame fisheye being a one trick pony, well you obviously see a smaller envelope than me. Here is a shot from a Canon 15mm fisheye that you would have missed living in your smaller gimmick lens meme, I didn't, I saw outside it. A full frame fisheye can be used in all sorts of situations and I have found it to be very flexible, unlike a circular fisheye which really does give you one, very compromised, image.


So let me get this straight..you are judging a fisheye's quality but how it can be de-fished???
There are far better ways of getting rectilinear corrected wide images. A TS-e 17L or a Siggi 12-24mm come to mind. Even a 16-35IIL covers a more versatile view of the world.
Currently, the only Canon fisheye on sale is the zoom. The prime was discontinued shortly before it's release. So unless one buys one second hand, they are no longer available.

You are welcome to view my portfolio and maybe then you can decide if I have a narrow envelope in photography. PS, I've been a full frame photographer for the last 10 years and I was a film photographer a long time before that.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23849425@N06/

As to the 85L being used for sports....well that's just silly, there are loads of other lenses far better suited to that role...like a 135L. Einstein said "don't just a fish by it's ability to climb a tree". The same is true of the 85L, what it does in the right hands is exceptional.

12
Reviews / Re: Can we have a 16-35 2.8L II review next please?
« on: May 22, 2013, 06:11:00 PM »
Ok, here's my thoughts on the 16-35 II L:
If I shoot at f2.8, I kind of want blurry corners and heavy vigneting...it saves me adding them later in post. If I want sharp corners....then I stop down because it's likely I'm going to need the depth of field. I wish this lens has less ghosting and flare in harsh sunlight (ie sunrise / sunsets) but I adore the star bursts I get with this lens. It's sharp enough for most professional uses and my copy is probably my most used lens and it shows!
It's a work horse of a lens and it's built to last. The lens hood is a waste of plastic...what is the point?
Using 82mm thin filters allows polarisation right down to 16mm....nice! Oh, due to it's lack of a bulbous front element, I can fit filters....that's a real plus point for landscapes. It's weather sealed...another plus point, it's a fast f2.8 and it's gives a brighter metering than many f2.8 lenses. It's AF is quick and accurate.

The optics are designed to be partially corrected, which is exactly the most useful for an ultra wide lens.
A Sigma 12-24mm mk I is a fully corrected altra wide, it's uncanny in that straight lines really do stay straight and it's a great architecture lens as a result...but photographing people can be a problem because circles become egg shaped towards the outer edges of the frame. So photographing people becomes an issue...due to circular distortion. A fisheye does the opposite, straight lines bend but circles stay...well circular! So Canon chose a perfect compromise with this lens, it walks a great line (sorry for the pun) between the two camps and allows the photographer to post correct either way without too much loss of resolution. It can shoot architecture and people as a result...unlike the Siggi or Nikkor 14-24mm. Versatility is the key to this lens and that's what makes it so good, not the lens charts that's poked in front of it. Sure there's a lot of room for improvement, but this lens does so much so well. It's one of the most useful professional lenses that there currently is available on the Canon mount.
Sure it's not the most exotic or sharpest of Canon's zoom lenses. But it's certainly very versatile and can shoot and lot of different genres with easy....in short....it gets the shots and brings the money in.

13
Lenses / Re: dpreview reviews the Tamron 24-70/2.8 Di VC
« on: May 22, 2013, 10:11:52 AM »
Buy cheap, buy twice....the Canon lens isn't just optically superior....it's built to a far superior standard.
Most photographers won't need the extra build quality. But for someone who uses their kit day in day out and earns by theor results....then the pro glass is always the cheaper long term purchase.

14
Lenses / Re: Best fisheye for canon.
« on: May 22, 2013, 10:09:08 AM »
The best fisheye available for Canon (and any system) is the new ef 8-15mm f4 L fisheye. It's the best of the bunch by a long way. It combines full circular 8mm through to 16mm and every point inbetween and some fun zoom bursts too. In my opinion, save and buy the best and let it be the last fisheye you ever buy.
The best fisheye for you....is dependent on your budget and is a personal choice.

Well that is a purely personal opinion, after all I use my fisheye more than most and I have no desire for the 8-15. I don't want the gimmick circular image with horrific CA once, let alone pay for it and carry it always.

As for IQ at 15mm, my Canon prime is very high quality (my testing showed it outperformed two different Canon 14mm lenses even when defished) and all aberrations are easily corrected; and it shoots at f2.8 for half the money and less weight than the zoom f4. Just because it doesn't have a red ring does not mean it isn't the best tool for the job. The 85 f1.8 is another very good example.

For me the zoom is a curiosity that I have no intention of buying, it has no additional functionality for my picture taking than the prime does and is not worth the addition cost.

As I said, functionally the zoom has no equal and is the best fisheye currently available, fact end of...no more discussion. All other choices are personal based on shooting requirements and what you are already using.
I'm suprised to hear you say that an 8mm fish is a gimmic, after all we are talking about fisheye lenses here....they are all low use one trick pony type of lenses....although the zoom is a little more functional. But they are all gimmic lenses.

I've tried most fisheyes on the market and sold many. An 8mm circular fish can be a lot of fun and to disregard it's photographic possibilities is a little narrow minded in my opinion. To say that there's lots of CA makes me wonder if you've even used one. The two copies of the  Sigma 15mm fish I've owned had slightly better optics to the old Canon 15mm fish I had. But the newer f4 Canon Zoom has less than either of them, it's still got a tad of CA but it's a lot lower than the primes. Oh and by the way, it's weather sealed...another common L feature which often gets over looked.

The 85mm f1.8 is a fantastic lens. But I sold my copy for an 85mm f1.2 L with offered me even more creativity and light gathering ability than the f1.8 version. I chose it for that reason and not for it's red ring. Although some people seem to have an Anti-L thang going on....generally the L lenses are a bit better in most areas (build, AF speed, weather sealing, robustness and often in IQ). But for a lot of photographers (non pro) they don't need those extra features or cost. I see so many 70-200/f2.8's about these days where the photographer looks like they have only handled a camera for a few weeks....poor shooting technique and awful posture and hand position. Holding their camera and not the lens like someone holding a pint of Guiness...oh boy!
 

15
Animal Kingdom / Re: Wrong Photography Ethics?
« on: May 22, 2013, 09:32:01 AM »
My view is quite a simple one. If you look at National Geographic magazine you will see photographs beyond what we see on here. Yet,they were all taken in camera. If such can be taken in camera, why do you need a computer to make your images look better when they dont?

The thing about this statement --for the most part...nat geo shots are carefully planned voyages (sometimes multiple voyages) to epic locations ---- EPIC LOCATIONS!!!!!!!! (and yes they do post process things too)...  I live in Buffalo NY, and while there may be some nice spots to shoot... other than niagara falls is there truly anything epic here? --- nat geo Epic????  I do not have thousands of dollars in travel budget...and my wedding and portrait clients don't have thousands of dollars to spend to have their wedding at the top of Mt Everest, or the jungles of Brazil, or deep in greenlands glaciers, or off in the magical hobbit land that is new Zealand...we aren't going to the tops of the Andes, not hiking through Cambodia, no sleek desert dunes of Tatooine (LOL...Tunisia), no engagement shoot at the great wall of China, no South African Diamond Mine, and not in a tribal village in New Guinea......I could go on and on but you get the point I hope.  Nat Geo goes to EPIC places!!!!! They also have the budget to wait out the weather if need be.  They also have the budget to go back if they wait 2 weeks and the weather doesn't work out.  They have their own submarines for crying out loud, subs, helicopters, planes, large boats....so yeah, Nat Geo can hold to a more natural approach...because they are generally going places that are so epic they don't need much manipulation.  Most of us don't have EPIC locations at pur doorstep, most of us are engaged in the art of pulling the beauty out of and or creating magic from a mundane scene.  LOL...  in the portrait/wedding world, it's like wondering why you handle a sports illustrated swimsuit model with full wardrobe and makeup crew differently than a plus sized bride at a budget wedding....
Just a note, Cambodia's countryside is not epic. Ive lived here three years and have yet to find those breathtaking views. Im actually out in the provinces now. It's 5 in the morning herre and me and my friend are going out in a while to capture the sunrise. Will see what I get. Vietnam is epic.

But I agree on your point.

Steve McCurry's Afgan Girl (the most famous portrait / Nat Geo shot ever) was originally shot in a landscape orientation. It was an over the shoulder shot which he gave no thought to. When his editor saw it he "converted" it to  portrait by re-shooting the difference using a model and a room set up....and merged the two together. Most of his images are tweeked in some way (vignetting, dodge burn etc) by his editor. So don't think that all Nat Geo shots are a perfect in cam shots....some are quite convoluted and anything goes to get the shot.
Even the late great Ansel Adams used to do extensive post production to each photograph. So I don't see what the problem is here. How can we ask about purity and subject integrity where we are photographing a 2D representation of a 3D world. It's all representation of some sorts.

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