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Messages - unadog

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31
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5dmark3 custom function setting for 61ptAF
« on: October 08, 2012, 02:35:29 PM »
Do you need one shot?

I know we are all used to using it. But with good quality AF points, many people use AI servo even for things like portraits. 

If you are shooting someting like the 85 1.2 wide open for a portrait, for example, the depth of field might me 3-4 inces.

Between you swaying a bit and your subject swaying a bit, that can put teh focus on the ear instead of the eye (I know I miss focus almost 50% of teh time in fashion trying to shoot that way.)

Given all of the tunable parameters and points for servo, maybe that is the better overall choice? Allow it to lock and maintain focus. Then switch bewteen spot,, expanded, tracking, etc. depening on what you shoot?

You can also change the priorities too. Focus as highest priority for portraits, others for sports, etc.

Michael



I believe that the AI Servo parameters (tracking speed, focus priority, etc.) can be registered, but not the AF mode itself - that seems to be what the manual indicates. It states, "Convenient when you want to change the AF characteristics duringAI Servo AF, not to AI Servo AF.  However, I haven't tried it yet.

Ok, I just tried it, and no, Switch to Registered AF Function does not change you from One Shot to AI Servo. 

Still, that combination combined with the one-button press-and-hold change to AI Servo would do it, i.e. assign the registered AF function to the DoF Preview button and use that for a one-touch change from single AF point selection to 61-point auto selection, and then press and hold the M.Fn2 button to change from One Shot to Servo.  Obviously, that's only possible on the 1D X with the M.Fn2 button right next to the DOF Preview button. 

Still, I currently have C2 assigned as One Shot with single point selection, and C3 as AI Servo with 61-point selection, and I can rapidly switch since I have the M.Fn1 button assigned to Switch to Custom Shooting Mode.  That's better for me, because in Servo mode I also want a higher minimum shutter speed setting.

32
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5dmark3 custom function setting for 61ptAF
« on: October 08, 2012, 11:42:26 AM »
The second post that was from page 48 seems to indicate that all functions can be set on the 1DX (which I see in your profile?)

There are 4 buttons that can instantly chage to a whole set of AF parameters. AI Servo, tracking characteristics etc.

Not sure about on the 5D3 for that one:




33
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: The Three Best Lenses for Filmmaking?
« on: October 08, 2012, 09:55:45 AM »
What are people's experiences using the 24-105mm f/4 L IS for video?

How important is IS/VR for video?


Many, many people who are shooting ther C300 like the 24-105 as their main lens.

A lot of those folks also say they would not use a lens that did not have IS.

What you are getting here is the tension between traditional "cine" usage of older, manual lenses, and more "run & gun" or documentary usage, with auto focus and even auto exposure in some cases.

It is also important to ask how much still photography you are doing, and whether you need to do both at the same time?

This is a great read on using the C300 for documentary work in Afghanastan (although he is using the 17-55 IS rather thna the 24-105):

http://www.cinemaeosuser.net/index.php?/topic/58-c300-for-documentary-work/


I really like the Canon T4i for video work, with auto focus in video mode.  It also has face tracking auto focus, and the ability to change focus by touching a new focus point on the touch screen.

It isn't perfect, but it moves teh T4i into more of the "camcorder" type range for event video. it also gives you new creative tools for "cine" type work. For example, I can have it track focus on a billboard that is in teh frame, then move the camera laterally and toward teh billboard while it maintains focus (so that "face tracking" isn't a perfect description for what it does.)

Or you can set up a scene with focus on one point, then "pull" focus by touching another point on teh screen. the new STM lenses (the 40 mm and the 18-135) move focus "steo by step" toward the new point silently, rather than huning like traditional USM lenses do.

Purists will chafe - "do everything manually."  (I remember when auto focus first came out on cameras in the 1980's?  It seemed like "real" photographers wouldn't use auto focus - like it was cheating!)

But new capabilites give you new possibilities. With every camera, you learn a "dance" to make use of it's capabilities to get the resuolts that you want." (Focus and recompose using the center focus point, etc.)

You really just need to start playing, and figure out what makes sense to you.

Good luck!

Best,
Michael

34
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5dmark3 custom function setting for 61ptAF
« on: October 08, 2012, 09:25:53 AM »
Is there a way that I can have it set to have single point on One Shot focus, but when I press the DOF button, or whatever I have it assigned to, to bring up 61pt focus, have it shift over to AI Servo?

Or am I just asking a little too much from my camera now?


Yes, you can.  Probably best to link to the AF Guide from Canon:

http://learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2012/1dx_guidebook.shtml


There is a 40+ page PDF at the bottom, as well as other articles on auto focus.

Go to Page 44. What you want is called:

"Instantly recalled AF points using [Switch to registered AF point]"

Store your preferred AF point for instant access at the touch of a button



They say that the 1DX and 5D3 have the same auto focus system.  So I am not sure exactly how the following applies to the 5D3? Different buttons?

"Unique to the EOS-1D X is the ability to not simply memorize and instantly return to an AF
point, but to register and immediately call-up either a different AF area selection, or an entire
set of AF functions (different Accel/Decel tracking settings, Tracking Sensitivity, etc.)"



Really a great AF system. Unfortunately, all that capability requires a bit of learning.  Good luck!

Best,
Michael

35
Lenses / Re: About to buy the 135L, and then saw this....
« on: October 01, 2012, 01:37:19 PM »
I prefer Photozone.

Here is the 135. It looks very, very good.

http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/430-canon_135_2_5d?start=1

And the 85. The MTF also look good:

http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/419-canon_85_18_5d?start=1


I don't recall which lens, but one of the Canon telephotos in the 100+ range used to be the sharpest lens that they had ever tested.


36
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Adobe RGB or sRGB please?
« on: September 25, 2012, 03:27:59 PM »
I shoot RAW + JPEG.

JPEGs shot for the web get the sRGB color space. JPEGs shot for anything else get AdobeRGB. You can convert to sRGB later.

You can alsways convert to a smaller space easily. If you try to go to a larger space, like sRGB->AdobeRGB, you are missing data and will have "combing."

If you want to see what the image could look like on a printer, etc, on your camera LCD, set it to AdobeRGB. Set your Profile to "Neutral" or "Faithful."

Lately I have been shooting with the Prolost settings. Go to Prolost.com

I used to shoot with the Marvel Cine Profile.

Good luck!
Michael

37
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Blown-out Highligts in Stage Lighting
« on: September 24, 2012, 09:28:06 AM »
You do realize that this is how the Men in Black were able to identify aliens?  Of course they had these digital detectors surgically implanted behind their eyes.

The aliens have a really, really odd response to magenta light that reveals their false corporeality.  Somehow the nera-infrared component of the magenta light is able to pass right through the "fake" atoms that are part of their extra-skeleton. What you are seeing is their underlying nondimensionality.

Not much to do but notify the authorities.  You might also let the folks at CERN know.  They were looking for evidence of some of these particles that help create the exoskeleton in their latest experiments. Anti-electrons and that sort of thing. Just don't touch them please!

Cheers!  Good luck!
Michael

38
It's still useful information for me and thank you for participating.

I agree, it is useful.

When I shot film for scanning, I always shot a lower contrast, lower saturation color negative film. My favorite was Portra 160NC.

I found then and I still find now that you can always ADD contrast and saturation in post. Basically you are compressing the range and throwing away data.

You cannopt go in the opposite direction in post. If you reduce contrast or saturation (on a JPEG, etc) you get banding, because the data just is not there.

I also come from a fine art background. To me lower stauration & contrast lend themelves to a more complex, nuanced image.

Good luck!

Michael

39
Your question is not well framed. You might want to try a new poll, as it looks like this one is just starting. Here is why.

Whether I shoot RAW or JPEG, I choose a PICTURE PROFILE/STYLE that already has less saturation.

Either in camera or in Lightroom, I pick a Picture Profile (Landscape/Portrait/Faithful/Natural/Etc.) Then I adjust teh saturation settiings in camera or post to reduce saturation.

I also shoot in AdobeRGB, not sRGB.

So THERE IS NO STANDARD "SATURATION BASELINE" to reduce from.  It depends one the profile and color space you are shooting in. There isn't a number that applies to all.

I shoot Marvel Cinestyle, Technicolor Cine or ProLost Flat.

http://prolost.com/blog/2012/4/10/prolost-flat.html

ProLost Flat starts with Natural, and then sets Saturation to -2.  So in a sense, -2, but that is much different than "Landscape -2 sRGB."

Sorry, I didn't mean to shout.  :P

I just wanted to emphaisze that there is no "Saturation" benchmark, like Greenwich Mean Time, that eberything can be compared to.

Cheers!
Michael 

40

Anyway, I spent 2 minutes of my time and ran a little high-pass sharpening combined with rising contrast on that failed womans portrait. Ways better, as you can see below in the first row! (After that I got a little snotty and did the same to the nikon-image - just the other way around. * g * Perhaps those canon samples got a little sabotage .....

.... This is not given, so push those sample into the dustbin.  ;)

41
Don't go overboard analyzing JPEGs posted online.

Start with RAW, and do similar processing so that you know what you get.

One might have sharpening set at "5", one at "0".   Those are just samples that conform to some unknown desire of the shooter to portray what they wanted to portray. A mood, etc.

I am NOT saying Canon will be better, or worse, or anything.  We jsut need a lot more info.

Michael

42
Any ideas when the prices may come down?

Two parts to that question:

1) When the Yen is not so strong, and returns to a normal range, and

2) When they are sitting on the shelves and shops need to move them.


As for #1: Since 2008, the Yen has gone from 120 to the US Dollar (and similar for the Euro, etc.) to 80 to the dollar.

That means that a $1,000 item in 2008 would now cost $1,500 in 2012.  That is one reason why this lens is so expensive.  If Canon get $2,300 for this now, that is equivalent to getting $1,518 in 2008. Sound familar?   :P


For #2:  Speciality shops only discount items that are not selling well.

When you have a hot item like this, the only real way to get a discount is to find a retailer that gives a "blanket" percentage off for Black Friday,, etc.

Like Dell, with 15% off all SLR camera & lenses, that type of thing. Or speciality discounters, like Buy.com, or Beach on eBay, etc.

Canon will offer rebates around Xmas, but not on the newest and hotest items.

It is a balance between having something and using it, and waiting until you can buy it a little more cheaply.



Remember that for a business the real "Cost" of a lens like this is not the sticker price. It is the "Purchase Price" minus the "Residual Value."

Take the 70-200 2.8 II, for example. It is selling used for about $1,900.  If you bought that at $2,300 2 years ago, your "Net Cost of Ownership" is $400, or about $200 per year.

If you are a pro doing weddings, etc. for $5,000 per wedding, that is a small "Cost of Doing Busines."  Definitely well worth the investment.

If you are an enthusiast, it really doesn't matter much if you use the lens now, or in the spring on vacation. Especially if you will not be doing a lot of work in the winter. Then again, you might have to wait 6 months to save $200.  Really up to you ... how much will you use it, and how soon ...

Sorry for the "Capitalization."  I just wanted to hightlight the business concepts and terms for those who make money at photography - it is a differnt way of thinking.  They may or may not apply to how you do photography.

Good luck!

Best,
Michael

43
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: The Three Best Lenses for Filmmaking?
« on: September 08, 2012, 03:26:51 PM »
I know this is contrary to what most will tell you, but I love my Canon 24-70 2.8 L for video, and for almost all of my work.

I know it doesn't have mechanical aperature control, but I have done fine with the electronic controls.

I have a large stock of prime lenses, but tehy never get used. I have the Canon 24 2.8, 40 2.8 STM, 50 1.8, 90 TS-E (tilt shift.) I just sold my Canon 85 1.2 and the 45 TS-E.  I also have the Zeiss 28 2.8 and 35 2.0 ZE.

Yet teh only lenses that I really use are my 24-70, and the 70-200 when I need more reach.  I am thinking of selling all of teh rest of my lenses, with two exceptions.

I have the Canon T4i with video auto focus. I bought the 40 mm STM and 18-135 IS STM lenses to use on teh T4i for video. They feature silint focus mechanisms, and they also focus in a more pleasing manner for video.  I plan on keeping those two lenses.

If you do decide to go for manual lenses, the Zeiss are a decent choice.  I also really like the focus on the TS-E lenses. They have a very long throw, and you can use the tilt for creative control of depth of filed, either to increase or decrease depth of field. The shift function is also very useful to avoid converging lines in architectural shots, etc.

They area bit slow at 3.5 or abouts.  But the older TS-E (24, 45, 90) cost about $875 used, which is about the cost of ther Zeiss used.

Good luck!
Michael

 

44
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Canon 5D Mark II or a Real Video Camera?
« on: September 03, 2012, 07:44:44 PM »
I, too, would recommend the T4i.

It adds the touch screen with auto focus for video. It has face tracking focus, so if you set it up for an interview, it would automatically keep teh subjects face in focus if he/she moved forward or back whiel takinjg.

In my mind, that helps move it closer to the "camcorder" realm.

You can also get teh new 18-135 mm STM lens, which has silent autofocus for video.  It also "hunts"for focus differently than older lenses, in a much nocer way that looks better on video.

You can also do auto focus "focus pulls", by touching a new spot on the LCD where you want the focus to move.  This same auto focus technology with STM lenses will be implemented on the C100.

Thr T4i has teh same basic sensor as the 7D.

You might keep an eye out though,, it seems there is a camera missing between teh T4i and the 1D-C. Perhaps something like a 3D-C or a 7D-C yet to be announced? Although if Canon announces a 40 MP camera, that may push another video DSLR further out.

Good luck!
Michael

The auto focus for stills is also very good. 

45
Lenses / Re: Canon 24-70/2.8L II is official delayed - again
« on: September 01, 2012, 01:44:48 PM »
When nikon announced the new D800, you could pre order it from the next day

canon sucks on that part...

You can also preorder Canon as soon as they are officially announced. I had an 800E on pre-order. There was no difference between Canon & Nikon on the 800 and 800E.

The Canon T4i shipped less than 1 week after it was announced. It was officially announced on Friday, June 8. I had it in my hands one week later, on Friday, June 15.

Nikon actually had more disruption of manufacturing because of the incidents in japan and elsewhere, with many items out of stock and in short supply.

Really no difference overall. Canon is making sure the product performs prior to shipping.


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