Lenses go up, bodies go down.
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So according to the Canon Museum the EF lens was released in 1993, but it was optically the same as the FD lens which goes back to the 1970's - the original FD lens to 1971 and the New FD lens (the only change was the lens mount) to 1979.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/fdlenses/50mm.htmI think Canon has one serious problem with the 50 lineup: They can't update the 1.4 before the 1.2 L, because if they update the 1.4 it will be better optically than the 1.2 L, thus killing it.
I don't think so, that's the beauty of their business model: People will keep buying their "premium" model even though by technical specs or usage scenario, there often is hardly any reason to do so. Look at the price of the old 50mm f1.0... they'll just keep the f1.2 as "red ring" and an updated f1.4 as "golden ring", problem solved.
Its kinda tricky for them if they release a 1.4 50 is, no one would buy the 1.2 50 unless it had is and was updated as well. There has to be a significant difference between the 1.2 and 1.4.But they probably have a whole group of folks devoted to figuring this out. The 50 1.2 needs updated, but it seems to be holding its own against the sigma art 50.
I dont think it can be a 1.4, it will probably be a 1.8 or a 2.0. But then everything might change when canon is sporting a 50mp sensor. Then canon will need a sharp 50 1.2 wide open with IS.
I don't have the time, but I am wondering about using a 16-35mm lens to photograph wildlife. Maybe in a Zoo. The 200-400 seems more like it.
It's beautiful, can't wait to get my hands on the legendary unicorn.
... Action in the bush happens fast...
I'm surprised no-one has mentioned the 400 DO IS II, you can be sure that's going to be the premium wildlife lens for many, many people.
I'm guessing he makes use of the zoom and the built in tc. He's got a 200-560mm lens in one package. When that lens came out some guy was gushing about how great it is to be able to switch things up so quickly, claimed it was better than having a set of primes (and yeah, 200, 300, 400 + tc is a lot carry around).
That said, I agree with you on the 400mm DO, I have the mark I version and while it is a little less contrasty than some lenses, it's a great lens, I love it. So darn light for what it is - it's the size and weight of my 200mm f2. I can literally hand hold it with one hand (why I would want to I can't say but it's possible).
I'll be taking a hard look at the mark II, if it is significantly better I'll make the jump, that's a great lens. I'd love a 500mm f4 DO.
I am pretty familiar with black bears. Not so much grizzles, and their behavior is quite different.
#1 rule of black bears is they feel the same way about you as you do about them. if you come around a corner and BOOM you are within swatting distance of a bear and he is suprised, you might be in trouble. thats the idea of bear bells, to give some advance warning. a dog or walking companions or singing also works.
When I see a bear, I stop, check for cubs, stay in plain view, and slowly get closer until it notices me. then i stop, take pictures and wait for it to either back off or stand its ground. keep eye contact, move slowly and deliberately. i have never had a bear do anything other than evaluate the situation and either tolerate me or leave.
Worst comes to worse and you get in a bad situation, prevailing wisdom is first back away slowly maintaining eye contact, and if you get charged (they paw the ground and bluff a few times first), either play dead or fight back while yelling, depending on how commited you think the bear is. I know of several people who have been charged and their yelling and stone throwing and stick swinging made the bear change its mind. Once the bear makes contact, play dead, they arent hunting you for food, they are trying to win a fight, so make them think they won. Never EVER EVER climb a tree or try and run away, bears legs are twice as long as they look, and they dont slow down AT ALL when they move from flat ground to straight up a tree.